How to use the Shapeoko Pro XXL

hi all this is the badging video for the shipoko pro at mae caven [Music] for those who are familiar with the previous chipoka that we had this one is similar in layout but significantly different in in actual use so a cnc router such as this one is great at doing precise work it has it uses end mills end mills are sort of like drill bits except that in addition to cutting down they can also cut sideways using that ability you can cut out all sorts of cool things say you know the most simple might be a perfect circle but you could also do intricate designs you can do three-dimensional work where you could you know say make something that goes up and down uh you can you can do all kinds of cool things on here if you can figure out how to clamp it to the work surface and then how to get the design into the computer so those are what we're gonna what we're gonna cover in terms of safety with uh this machine there's a risk of starting a fire so you do need to stay with the tool while it's running um if you need to run out feel free to pause it but this thing is spinning super fast right next to wood so it can you know pack down a bunch of sawdust in there and and catch it on fire if you're not careful uh there's also a vacuum that's pulling air through there so it's it is a potentially combustible situation aside from fire as long as you aren't putting yourself near the cutting edge of things it isn't too dangerous in that way but as always in the wood shop eye protection because this could break and go flying um and then making sure hair necklaces ties sleeves whatnot or are well out of the way of the machine this head moves this whole gantry moves you know all around and fairly quickly and with a you know fair amount of force so make sure to not be leaning on it or something like that because it could whack you and and could probably hurt so what we're going to do here is walk through using the machine each of the steps required and some of the other bits of information that will be useful while you're using it and we're just going to start by turning it on the power button is right here so that's glowing blue uh occasionally you know if the if the machine is being funny you might just try restarting it you know when in doubt that's often a good thing to try over on the wall here we have some accessories that we'll get to when we get there here just you know so you have a sensible layout this is a bit setter so what this does is it can come over and touch off here with the tool so it knows how long the tool is so that's a that's a great feature and then you might also notice back here the vacuum so the vacuum you turn on manual manually and it vacuums out through here this has a magnetic dust shoe which is very convenient for changing the tools you can just pop that right on and off and then we're going to head over to the computer console which is where we're going to start so uh normally the computer can just stay on we'll just wave the mouse and click the keyboard to get it to wake up um can close out of here and we'll just close everything to pretend that we just started up the computer and there are two programs here that we're going to use so if you are used to the the previous cnc router here which used easel which is web-based this is different these are you know applications that are on the computer that's good because it helps to maintain a good connection with the router but the downside is if you want to bring files here you need to bring them on a flash drive or email them they won't just stay in easel um so and you can also download these programs you can just google carbide motion well that's probably not going to be so useful to you you can download carbide create and that is where you can make your designs and then just bring those files here to actually cut them using carbide motion so we will open carbide create first so so so now that the machine is on uh what we can do is think about taking a work piece and securing it down um what we're going to do is take this piece of particle board you can cut all sorts of materials on here that are you know plastic wood we can't cut metal in the wood shop um but you can cut plastics and wood on here melamine stuff like that and clamp it down in in this case we'll just make some funky design as we practice using the software for clamping on here we're going to use the accessories that live right over here so in this bin are some of the hold downs and then these are just some other accessories including an allen key which we will use so i'm just going to grab a few of these green clamps we're just going to slide this piece of aluminum into the t-track and you can slide them you know anywhere along the length that you want obviously in general it's good practice to have the clamps be angled a bit downwards but in this case we're able to get four clamps on here so what we can do is is just have them angled a bit upwards and clamp like that and i'm not going to tighten it down too hard just yet we want it to be lined up to something now if we were let's say we were cutting a circle out of here then we could have this at all kinds of a crazy angle it doesn't really matter but let's say we wanted to make this a sign and we wanted to cut a name into this then we would want that name to be centered and squared up and out of a weird angle so what we could do is just align the front of this piece of wood to the front edge of these you know of the table here now we know it'll be nice and straight to the table [Applause] all right so now that it's straight i'm gonna clamp all of them down a little more securely and so for this shipoko pro xxl the cutting dimensions of it are 33 inches wide 33 inches long and 4 inches high and then something to familiarize yourself with is this is the x axis so x means moving back and forth this way y means front to back this way and z is up and down so x y z and it generally goes from x negative to x positive y negative to y positive and z negative to z positive so our material is locked down and now we can go look at the software to figure out how we're going to cut this i'm just going to put this back in the box all right so the computer is normally on what we can do is just you know wave the mouse around or hit the space bar to get it to wake up if the computer is off it lives underneath the cnc so feel free to turn it back on these two programs are not web-based like eazl they live on the computer so you can download them more specifically you can download carbide create which is where you'll design the files and if you want to bring them over here you can email them use bucket put them on a flash drive however you want to bring them over here the benefit of having it be computer based is it's less likely to lose the connection so that should help to have more reliable cuts so we'll start by opening carbide create and we want we're gonna this isn't quite as as sleek as easel but it does have a little more functionality which hopefully will be useful so we are going to start with the setup and we're going to tell it the stock size so the width height thickness etc of our material and i'm just going to measure those using a tape measure so the width is 19 inches the height is 12. so width 19 height 12 and then the thickness of this material is three quarters of an inch 0.75 okay and now this is a pretty important box here so this is saying the zero height and you can see that little red dot is on the bottom of the material it says bottom there and what that means is it's going to think of zero as being on the table and then up at 0.75 is the top of your material and the reason why that's important is because this is where you're going to zero your your bit it's going to be on the table um and then going up from there is positive the times when you would do this is when you're cutting all the way through your material you're cutting out a shape and the reason you would want to zero off of the table in this case is because then you know exactly where the table is and you're not going to cut too shallow and you're not going to cut too deep because you're zeroed exactly off of the the surface of the table but let's say you're just engraving a sign then you don't really care where the surface of the table is you want it to be an exact depth into your material and so in that case you would click top and now you're saying from the top i want to cut exactly a quarter of an inch in or something you still tell it that the material is three quarters of an inch thick so that you know it knows and it can tell you when you're going to cut through um but it's but in this case you know you're zeroing off the surface so it knows exactly how deep it's going uh in this case we're going to cut all the way through so i'm going to leave it at bottom top that it's three quarters of an inch thick and we're going to zero off of the table so we're going to when we're going to touch the bit and it's going to let it know exactly where the surface of the table is and then you know we're telling it this is three quarters of an inch thick but if it's a little taller a little shorter doesn't matter um because at the end of the day the bit is going to come down to zero which is going to be perfectly at the height of the table not too deep but not too shallow the tool path zero down here is just where on the xy coordinates of the material you're gonna be zeroing so right now it's lower left but you could change that depending on what you wanted to do and as you get more experience you might change that but in general it's in the lower left the material um it's kind of like mdf so we'll put it at that it is the shipoko xxl retract tight is how high the bit comes above your material between cuts so half an inch is fine and we'll leave it in inches all right so then we've done the setup that's just to change the grid that's a background if you wanted to put like a picture of your material and then here are the vectors so vectors just mean shape that you shapes that you can design in the computer um you know we'll just we can take a circle and you know make a circle then it asks us how how big we want the circle to be and i'll tell it a you know four inch radius that's a an eight inch diameter circle and that's pretty big and now we can transform it which means change it so here's moving so as an example of moving it we can go like that and you know this is if we wanted to tell the position exactly so if we wanted this circle to be exactly in the middle of our piece of wood we could choose the middle and then we know you know that this is 19 so we would take half of that so nine and a half and tell it we were going to be there and then the height was 12 so that'd be six and so now it's right in the middle of our piece um so we could we could do that over here is the tool to scale it to make it bigger smaller rotating mirroring offsetting aligning so if you had multiple shapes and we wanted to make them you know circles concentric or we wanted to line things up in a certain way we could do that and then here's the node edit so you can actually click on the nodes of a circle and say you know do different things to it so for people who are familiar with easel it will probably look very similar in in that it has similar capabilities but at the visually so for people who are familiar with easel you'll probably notice a lot of the same features they just look pretty different um so you know there are all these other shapes and whatnot we can you know we could make connect it back there now let's say that in fact you you wanted to import a file because you already had a file made and you just wanted to bring it in here so we'll just delete these then you can see over here that it shows the option to import so we can bring in a file and it's looking for vector files so dxf svg files like that you've made an inkscape or illustrator and then you just want the bit to trace it another option is trace image so here you can bring in a png or jpeg or something like that and it will try to trace that image to convert it from a bitmap which is just a bunch of pixels to a path for it to follow a vector but i will undelete those shapes that that we made because we'll keep using those and now we can well maybe let's let's put these shapes within each other so i'll select this and click move and we will move this to it in this shape so now we have two shapes going on to make it a little more interesting and we can go over to tool paths and now for each path that we've made here we need to tell it what we want to do with that line right now it's just a line so up here you can see these two tabs the design this is just the shapes that we make and then tool paths is where we take those designs and actually make it into a cutting path so it knows what to do with it so we'll start with this weird shape and we'll tell we're gonna make a pocket out of that so here here we have some options contour means following a line pretty much pocket is where we'll take this and remove the material on the inside to a certain depth um texture is kind of a cool thing so you can just it can automatically make different textures so you define it here and that's kind of a neat thing to play around with but we're gonna not do that drill would be to drill a hole so you would have spots on there and then just tell it to drill holes uh and then v-carve an advanced v-carve which to be honest i'm not too familiar with uh you're welcome to use vcarve and pull those files into here but i'm not quite sure those buttons do just yet so what we're going to do is make this a pocket so we're going to click pocket it's going to first ask us what tool we're going to use so we're going to click in here and right now we just happen to have a particular tool in there so i'm going to select that tool so the machine is a shipoko and the material we'll call it mdf and we'll click under here and then the there are end mills which are what we looked at they have square bottom so they they you know cut out shapes ball mills have a round bottom so yeah it doesn't show a picture but they will you know cut smoother designs a v is a v shape tool so that can cut you know crisp things and signs or if you want to do really fine detail and engraver have even you know finer points so we're just going to use a normal end mill and it's going to be a quarter inch end mill we can click on this and it says it has three flutes but that's not what we're using ours has two flutes um so i will grab the so you can see what we're using so this is the bit that we're going to use and it's a quarter inch in diameter and you can see it has two flutes this bit is going to spin like this they all bits always spin counterclockwise or sorry clockwise when you're looking at them from the top and you can see that if this were cutting it's going to take a piece of wood and it's going to pick it up and carry it upwards so this is what's called an upcut bit there's another kind where the blades actually the flutes go the other way so as it's cutting it cuts a piece of wood so it's let's say it's moving this way and it picks up a piece of wood here instead of going up it would push it downwards and that has a benefit because if you're cutting a piece of plywood that top layer of the plywood is going to get pushed down which will give it a nice smooth surface here with this upcut bit as it comes along and cuts let's say it's moving this way it's going to take that top piece of plywood and tear it upwards so it'll leave a smooth finish on the bottom down here but a rough finish on top so you use an up cut bit up cut bits also get rid of the sawdust betters they can cut faster so we in general i use up cut bits but down cut bits will leave less tear out on the surface so sometimes those are preferable we can see the flute length here it might even say it on here so on this bit it all that it says is that it's a quarter inch but we can measure the flute length so the flute length is one inch um so that's how deep it can it can you know be be cutting sideways you can cut deeper that way but let's say we had material like you know this material you tried cutting like that well this piece isn't going to cut anything so it's just going to burn it's just going to push there you can only cut up to that depth over here we have lots of bits available so these are just communal bits that are available we have others for sale in the store in the back you're welcome to buy here's some more communal bits that you're welcome to to to pull from all different shapes and sorts and there's an end mill sharpener in the metal shop if you want to sharpen an end mill because it's dull so here we can see that we have this quarter inch end mill with two flutes and the flute length here is three quarters of an inch instead of our one inch that's fine because we're not gonna going to be using that full one inch of of cutting depth however what if if you did want to make your own tool so that it matched what you're doing more precisely you can go into this user-made tool list and then you know click new tool and and make your own tool there and enter all the specifications for it you can also copy one of the existing tools and then paste it in so that it has most of those values filled out you can just modify it a little bit but for now we're just going to use this one click ok and yep all those things look good it's automatically setting the step over so the step over is every time this bit makes a pass so you can see here all the passes it's i'm sorry all that all the wall paths it's going to make how much it steps over each time so it's going to be stepping over an eighth of an inch each time it's going to take off 50 thousandths of an inch with each pass these are the plunge rate is how quickly it goes down so it's 12 inches per minute and the feed rate is 90 inches per minutes that's how fast it's going to be moving and the rpm is how fast how many rotations per minute the spindle is going to be spinning at so i'll click ok then over here on the start depth we're going to tell it zero because it's going to start at the stock top and you know which is which is zero it's not going to start down at a certain depth so s is just zero there and then the max depth how deep you want that pocket we'll just say 0.1 inches because we don't need to waste time you know the point is just to show how it's working but you could edit this and let's say we wanted to go all the way through we want to remove all that material you could hit stock bottom it knows it's three quarters of an inch of an inch deep so that's how deep we go but we can just do that 0.1 and click ok and the name of this is pocket tool path one we could name it pocket polygon okay so there's pocket polygon and it shows what that will look like based on those things we just did and we could show the simulation for it so right now it's showing it in aluminum we can change that to mdf doesn't make any difference but it's just showing what it will do over here and you can see that the pocket that it makes and next we're going to do another tool path we're going to hide the simulation here so that we can select this other path that we made and tell it we're going to do that as a contour so the contour again is going to start at zero start at the surface the depth is going to go all the way through so we're going to use stock bottom um the tool path settings the direction it's going to be cutting on the inside of our lines that blue line um to the left so that's um we could change that you know if we wanted to sit right on the line or we wanted it to be on the other side but for us outside right it makes doesn't let's pretend we really cared about this shape so we wanted to cut on the outside to maintain that we would cut in the outside then we want tabs so if we just cut through this then this piece of wood would just come flying out as soon as we cut through which would not be good so to avoid that what we're going to do is use tabs and um and and i skipped this up here but the tool is pre-selected so it's the same tools we have been using edit tabs um it says click on source vectors to place tabs so we're just going to click around here and i'll put you know maybe four tabs on so one two [Music] three four and those are spots where the tool is just going to come up a little bit so that it doesn't cut all the way through there so it doesn't come flying out and the tab width is here about half an inch and the height is about an eighth of an inch let's click ok and it's just added those four tabs for us and now contour tool path one we'll just call that like outline um [Music] cut because it's not engraving it's cutting all the way through so we'll click okay and now we have these two tool paths that we're going to cut on and you can see you know which ones which and where you could you know save them separately so if you just wanted to we could disable it so that it we only export one at a time for some reason you just wanted to do bits and pieces obviously we can also have other things in this design we could have another tool path over here that i'm sorry we could have another design path over here and not turn it into a tool path so even though this is the shape is here we haven't made a tool path for it so it's not going to do anything it's just when we save the g-code which is what's going to actually tell the machine what to do that is going to get totally ignored so i'm just going to un i'm going to enable that and we can save the g-code and what you can do is just make your own folder under so on the desktop there's a folder called project files and you can make your own by going to new folder so here's mine and i'm just going to call this kidney bean and click save so now this design is saved and we're going to go over to carbide motion which is what actually controls the machine so open you up and first we need to connect to the cutter so the cutter is already on we push the blue button so that it's turned on and now it's just going to think about it so now it's now it's connected and we can click on initialize well we can load the file first so we'll click load kidney bean and now it's here we can click view and this is literally the g-code so this is the instructions that are being sent to the motor so it knows exactly where to go and what to do with each step we're going to initialize the machine and we can watch it right now it's initialing the x and y axis so it's going all the way to the back it's finding how far back it can go now it's going over on the x to find how far sideways it can go and then once it's done that it knows where it is just when it turns on it has no idea where it is so now now it knows and now it's going to come over to the front so that we can put a bit in it which is very considerate and in fact it says please insert a tool so we will kind of do that we're going to do a slightly different step first so what we want to do is we want to tell the machine exactly where our material is so that it knows where to cut and we have a nifty accessory for this tool that helps make that really easy and the way it works is we have this sorry we have this guy which sits right on the corner and what this is going to allow us to do is the tool can come over and it can go right in that hole which is sitting right over the corner of our work piece and it's going to touch here and touch here and then right in the middle is the edge of the work piece on the on the x-axis and then similarly here it'll touch touch so it'll know exactly where the y limit of our piece is and then it can touch on the surface but we're going to put it down on the surface of the material because remember we set the zero as the work surface we're going to touch there but first we need to load the thing in now let's say that we were using this in there this this end mill well let's say it was oriented like this and it touched the side like that well that's a slightly different position than if it was turned like this so what we need to do is actually we're going to use a different tool we're going to use this little guy which is the shipoko probe and um we have two different sizes for the different sized collets so we're going to load that up in here so that we can use this because it's a perfect cylinder it'll touch just on the sides where evenly on both sides so the first step to doing that is removing this dust shoe so this just pops off very neatly and then this is just going to go right up in here in this collet but first we're going to remove this so you can see how the collet system works on on this router this is just a router that's mounted right on here so here you can see the collet nut what i just unscrewed and then this collet which lives right inside of it and so the collet takes only one size in this case this this eighth in or sorry quarter inch bit and it just squeezes down on it so it pinches it really hard to get a nice firm grip and we could change that so over in here we have so down in here we have a different size collet and this is the eighth inch one so let's say you wanted to use an eighth inch bit well then you could swap out the collet so this just lives in there and we're gonna put this one right back in and it goes in there just like that and we'll screw it right back up into the end of the spindle or the router and we're going to put this probe in just like that right into the collet and continue to tighten all right and now i'm gonna grab this wrench which is the shipoko wrench and use it to tighten this so the way to tighten it is you put the wrench right on this collet nut and there's a button right in the back here and you're gonna push that button and that will lock the spindle or the the router so it can't spin on you so we're gonna just turn it and now i'm pushing that in so it can't spin and use the wrench to tighten it in this case we're looking at it from the top so it's lefty loosey righty tighty from the bottom but from the top it's the opposite so we're snugging it down by by turning in this case this direction which from the top from my perspective is counterclockwise so now it's locked in there and what it wants to do over here is we've inserted the tool so i'm going to click resume and it's going over and it's going to touch this bit setter [Music] with with what is not actually an end mill so it knows exactly how long it is it's just touching again to be very precise all right coming back up and back to the middle very considerate and now what we can do is we're going to take this this little magnet piece and we can check to make sure it works by touching it you can see how it turns red so whenever it makes electrical contact it turns red and we're just going to take this magnet and stick it right on there right on that collet nut and then using the computer over here we're gonna go to jog so right now we're at run so we can see you know we could run this program but we're gonna go over to jog we can change the increment which is how much it moves by so right now it's moving by a thousandth of an inch so if we click x plus i mean it's moving a teen c t and c t amount but we're going to increase it up to fast now right now if we tell it to go down into the table it will go down into the table and break itself or at least make itself unhappy so it's very important when you put it in fast mode or even you know 0.1 inches to be aware of that so that you don't you don't hurt the machine so i'm going to click x negative you can also use the arrow keys on the keyboard and clicking x negative tells it to go towards us which in this case is x negative and i've put that little um tool probe or material touch off probe right on the corner of the material so you can see that it's sitting right on the corner here just like that and we want it to be sitting so that it isn't moving on us so just on the corner sometimes you have to finagle the wires a little bit and now what i'm going to do from the computer is move it so that the bit is sitting just inside of that little hole so down inside that hole a little bit you'll see why in a second so i'm just going to move it over and then line up a little bit and now z down a little bit now we're closer i'm going to decrease the increment to 0.01 inches so i don't make any mistakes and hit anything and now down all right so now we're down in that hole and what we can do is now i'm going to click probe so you can click probe right on the screen here and tell it we have the bit 0 v2 the one on the right and we want to probe the corner so you could do the z the height the x or the y individually but we're just going to click the corner and it's telling us that the green led is on we verified that it works by touching it made the red led and now we put it over the corner inside the bore so we're ready to begin the probe if you go over here you can see it touched now it's coming over and touching so it's finding its its position on the x-axis and now it's finding its position on the y-axis so you might recall that on the old shipoka we had to do this visually or with a piece of paper so this is a big improvement and now it's doing the z but we're actually going to touch off off the work surface so we're going to forget about that all right so now it's saying that it's position is x 0.394 y 0.394 so what that's saying is that it knows that the corner of the material is right there and it's a little and it's like 0.394 and 0.394 inches away from that corner now what we're going to do is we're going to tell it where the surface of the table is but let's say we did it with this tool and then we took this out and put in our own the actual cutting end mill well the end mill we're going to put in at a random length it's not going to stick out the same exact amount as this piece and so what that would do is it would it would mess it up so we need to do is now we need to put the actual end mill back in there and the end of the end mill is flat and so what that means is we can get to focus we can get it to when it touches off on the surface of the table since it's perfectly flat it's okay versus the sides which are not you know can be wider or skinnier depending on the orientation so we're going to come back over here and go to run and we're going to tell it hey we're actually loading a new tool and it's coming up we can disconnect our little magnet guy put in our new tool which is the the actual end mill we're going to use so push this button until it locks in and then loosen it just like that pull this out and put it back in this little box take this end mill slide it in there and you don't want to you only want to hold up above the flutes so you want to have a good bite on it but you don't want to be on the flutes and then we're going to push the button again tighten first with my fingers and now with that wrench just get it snug doesn't need to be crazy wrench away and we've disconnected the magnet because it's going to go jog over there so if it's still connected to the magnet it would have a little problem it'll just pop off but it wouldn't be super happy so it even knows that we're putting in that quarter inch end mill this actually says down cut i'm just noticing but it's fine it doesn't make a lot of difference it just thinks that it's a down cut even though it's an upcut bit as we covered before so we'll click resume now it's running over there we're jogging as it's called and going down so it figures out how how long that bit is exactly where it is [Music] okay and now we're gonna do is touch off the work surface so we're going to go back to jog over here and now we're going to tell it to probe but before we do that when you probe you need to be pretty close to it so we can't you know just we need to get it pretty close before we start probing so we're going to bring it over here and go almost on top of it so i'm going to increase the increment to fast and i'm going to use the arrow keys just so we can bring it over here a little more quickly and this way and then we're going to bring the z down and i don't know there might be an arrow key shortcut for that but i'm just using the mouse and something to note is that if we push over here it rocks so we're going to push over on this side where it doesn't rock and this is something important to note is that let's say we were touching off the top surface of our material you actually put it on top of the material you don't set it on the corner and yeah so you would you would take it and put it up on top of the material which is important to know or else you'll be off by a little bit because it knows how thick this this thing is and so if it's down a little bit it'll have the wrong thickness so we're going to put that there we're going to attach our magnet so here's our magnet we're just going to stick on just anywhere anywhere on there that's metal we'll be fine and now we're going to bring it right over [Music] and then i'm going to bring it closer because if we're too far away when it starts probing it'll just be like i don't know this thing is too far away we're just going to stop all right so now we're close i'm going to go over here and click probe and bit 0 v2 and we're just going to do z and it's going to tell us position probe on surface and then position the cutter above probe surface again probe comes down [Music] now if you hadn't attached the magnet on there then it would just keep searching right it would smash right into there until it had a problem um if you do that you'll probably have to turn off and turn on the machine because it's going to be like oh we just had a calamity there so it's very important to remember to attach the magnet so that it can detect when it touches the metal it also won't know it'll just try to keep going all right so now we have our z set off the bottom which is how we told the program the file that we made is going to be set off the work surface and here this we don't we control the spindle manually so that wouldn't do anything for us set 0 would be to manually set the zeros wherever we are instead of using that cool probe that we have rapid position we would put in the coordinates and then tell it exactly where we want it to go and probe we're now very familiar with up here mdi is you can send it gcode commands if you were so inclined and settings hopefully you won't need to get into settings because that could potentially mess things up so i'll go back to run and now i'm just going to put this probe away because we're all done probing so it goes back in his little box home up there and this guy can go over here and this little dust shoe will flip right on there magnetically which is great and i'm going to grab hearing protection between the spindle and the vacuum it's a pretty loud situation so now what we can do is it knows the position so what i'm going to do is i'm going to tell it to start so we're going to click start job and start and so now it's coming up and it's just gonna re-measure that tool again just to make extra sure that it knows what it's doing so we're going to tell it yep we've already put that tool in you can resume and it's going to go over there [Music] and touch off [Music] all right and now it's going to tell us hey set the spindle to 18 000 rpm and then we look at the top and it just has some random numbers that's not very helpful so we look at this chart and over on the chart it says that 18 000 rpm on the right corresponds to the number three so over here we'll see that it's in fact system number three so that's the proper speed for the um for that spindle for for this program so um [Music] and then as long as we're over here you can just see there's this note about the in the store we have these milling bits available for sale in the in the back store at make haven so if you want to buy brand new bits instead of using or sharpening your own over here and i'm just going to move this out of the way so there's no obstacles and well we actually need to turn it on so we're just going to click this on button did that get started we're gonna turn the vacuum on up here that's important [Applause] [Music] so [Music] [Applause] [Music] tada so that was pretty quick this is a powerful rigid machine so it can take off pretty deep cuts at a time uh you can see so we'll just jog it to get it out of the way now we could just turn the machine off and move it manually when it when it's off you can just push it um i don't click we just clicked resume um so now it moves itself out of the way which is very nice of it goes all the way to the back giving us lots of space so you can see down here that those are the tabs that it made so it didn't come flying out it's still nicely in there and we can use a razor blade to to pop that out here's our nice pocket you can see a little bit of tear out on the edges because we're using an up cut instead of a down cut bit and we can take this out just to see you know how good a job we did of zeroing off of the surface of the table so that it doesn't cut into our table the hope is obviously that be just right not too shallow and not too deep so it doesn't mess up our our table so we can have this last as long as possible if you do cut into the table that's not the end of the world you can see here that you know there's a little hole and then here it looks like there's like just maybe a shadow and then here it actually did cut in a little bit which is interesting um i'm not sure why there is a difference um [Music] but you know with time i guess we'll see you know if that's the case it was pretty good you know in that it was almost negligible here it was entirely negligible here which is where we zeroed interestingly but that's the goal in general is just to make as little mark on here as possible so we don't need to remove these very frequently and and replace them so we have our lovely kidney bean shape i just popped it right out you know if we wanted to be nice i might cut it out more nicely we can just sort of cut off or sand off those pieces and now we have our our shape on here um the vacuum did a great job there's just a little bit left of cleanup to do obviously we need to put the clamps away when we're done and all the accessories go away um if you let's say you make something in fusion 360 your solid works a fully three-dimensional design then you can just open it up as a new file in here you just skip the step of using the carbide create you just open it right up into carbide motion and run the program no problem when you're done you're just gonna make sure everything is cleaned up that vacuum it will fill up so it just has a has a paper shopback bag inside of it the extra bags live right over there on top of the cabinets you could put a replacement bag in here for when it needs it when it stops pulling dust quite as well and then when you're done just make sure to turn off the machine and you're good to go thanks for watching

Channel: MakeHaven

Views: 41,734

Keywords: maker, makerspace, makehaven, technology, DIY

Id: Z-8Im0vz8Rs

Length: 46min 47sec (2807 seconds)

Published: Fri Oct 15 2021