HOW TO Use a Drawer Routerbit

there are router bits for making a relatively decent Gullu joints for drawers and make that very fast like this one here it has a special profile and you cut it to one piece and then to another piece that has flipped 90 degrees to the first one and once that's done you can assemble it and the joint is finished one problem that you can see here you have to set up the road a bit correctly or the joint won't fit properly and there will be some gaps but how do you set that up correctly for this run of it for example there were no instructions that came with it and ironically the instructions that are online on a manufactures website are wrong so let me show you how to set it up the first setting is the bit height and to figure that out you need to know a measurement from here to the middle of the angled part either the manufacturer gives you this or you can measure it it will be some nice value something like five or six millimeters or a quarter inch something that's nice to work with I mean the manufacturers are not stupid for the one I have this turns out to be five millimeters the bit height then is just double that measurement so for me ten millimeters the second setup is the fence distance and that depends on what you want to achieve because with this rabbit you can make multiple styles of drawers for both styles you again need one measurement of the router bit which is from the outer edge to the inner edge and that is again a given measurement from the manufacture in my case it's three point two millimeters the first setting and probably the most useful one is that you only have one setting on the road table and can cut both parts with that and when you assemble it you will end up with a nice and sharp corner and that setting is actually pretty simple because it's just half of the material thickness plus half of that second measurement that's it and it works for any material thickness maybe it's a bit difficult to get your head wrapped around this so I have to get something on the computer where can show you how the settings will affect the final joint this model here is basically a representation of the piece of what you just saw and I made the first cut with the exact geometry that I just showed so five millimeters here from the middle of the angled surface to the top of the cutter the three point two millimeters from the outer edge to the inner edge the ten millimeters of bid height and ten point six millimeters for the fence distance and this will create such a cutout and then I've modeled a second piece with the same cut settings and as you can see it fits perfectly into it if I choose a different fence distance than the ten point six for example twelve then this will end with a joint like this and of course if it's yet away for example I just use nine millimeters then it's a joint like this how well they've joined fits is not affected by the fence distance that's only a matter of the bit height so if I change that for example from ten to nine millimeters the result will look like this and now there are gaps and this joint won't fit properly if I change it in the other direction - for example 11 millimeters then in the 3d model the joints will overlap but in real life that's impossible this will just mean that you won't be able to fully assemble the joint there will be a gap right here and also show you what happens when I use a different material thickness for example 15 millimeters since I'm still at a fence setting for 80 millimeter stock thickness it doesn't fit properly but if I change that to the right settings again so half of 15 is 7.5 plus 1.6 the joint fits perfectly again this also works in the other direction let's try 30 millimeter stock thickness and I have to adjust the fence setting again so 15 plus 1.6 and it fits again it looks a bit weird and probably is not meant for material this thick but basically it works so let's try this in real life my test material has a thickness of fourteen point seven so fourteen point seven divided by two plus one point six eight point nine five millimeters is defense distance when you make the cuts you really need to use a feather board because the pieces need to be tightly pressed against a fence or the table and if they are not that will really affect how well the joint goes together first test piece it fits together not perfectly and this is the case that I showed in the 3d model the router bit is set too high I measure 10.05 but I don't know how accurate this thing is so let's slow it a bit a little bit now I'm at nine point nine millimeters let's do another test cut [Music] second test fits and that is pretty much perfect the nice thing is that I have figured out a bit height measured with this tool now if it is exactly ten millimeters or nine point nine in my case there are many tolerances doesn't matter but I know that this current height setting makes for a good fitting joint I can leave it as is and use any stock thickness I want and only need to change the fence position to achieve a perfect fitting joint and that's pretty cool okay now you can achieve a good joint but if you really make a box or drawer you want to achieve specific dimensions mostly outer dimensions and how long do the stock pieces need to be to achieve exactly that if you look at this example this idea is exactly as long as the stock but on this side here you need to take these little parts here into account and this here is just the material thickness - to ten millimeters from the bit height I can now measure from here to here and then figure out how long the stock piece would be the length is weirdly 233 millimeters now I subtract two times the thickness of the material which is 18 millimeters in this case and now I add two times the bit height which is two times ten so the piece should be 217 millimeters long let's measure that and that is exactly how long this piece is okay for another more logical example I have some more test material that I want to turn into a box it is 15 point two millimeters thick and I want the box to be 220 millimeters on this side and 180 millimeter on this side for one side I can directly use the stock a length and I want a 220 millimeters to be that so I named that with a 1 and a 180 millimeters I now have to calculate just like before I take the 180 subtract 2 times the thickness of 15.2 and then add 2 times the bit height setting which is 10 millimeters so that's the stop length for this short side 160 nine point six millimeters and I just need to cut this dark material to this dimension [Music] with the stock at the right length I next need to make the right cut to the right piece the one that I directly use the length is the one that's laying on the router table and the other one is against the fence [Music] now I can assemble the box and this side of course still has to 220 millimeters and right here I'm at 180 now let's go together for clamping I should only need two clamps to clamp this properly maybe a third one to bring it into square but that's not necessary in this case umm yes looks like I glued it to the table for good if you take a close look the joint is fully closed flush at the end pretty cool alright that first use of the router bit worked out great and where I really see the potential of this is when you make many drawers at once because then you only have to take bigger sheets of plywood cut that profile along the whole edge of the bigger sheet cut it into strips and then all the drop lengths are ready for gluing and that then really saves time for cutting all the joinery and I will definitely try it out when I'm building my next workbench with a lot of drawers in it now let's take a look into the second use of that router bit in the first method you build a box and then to make it into a nice drawer you would add another piece as the drawer front but you can also make a drawer and the front is part of the box itself and the sides are then a little bit in set to achieve dad you need to fan settings I randomly chose 20 millimeters from the edge to defense for the first cut [Music] for second setting the lower edge of the bit needs to be flush with the fence and that is pretty easy to set up the amount my example overhangs is not very much and to be exact it's exactly the first setting of the router bit to 20 millimeters - the thickness of this stock this is eighteen point four so the overhang should be about one point six millimeters and that's exactly what it is now when you really make such a drawer you don't randomly choose the first fence setting you want to know it because usually you know the size of the box and the size of the front and then need to calculate how to set the first fence setting and that again is pretty simple so take the size of the front subtract the size of the box divide that by two and then add the thickness of the stock to confirm that with my little example I measured it and the size of my front panel is 178 minus the size of my box which I measured with 175 this I divided by two and then I add the thickness of the stock to that which in my case I guess was eighteen point five and then I get exactly the 20 millimeters I randomly chose at the beginning and when I now really wanted to make a drawer with these dimensions that's the setting for the raw defense for the first cut well to complete the draw here need the back so I actually also need a third setting the size of that back piece is exactly that measurements that's how long the stock needs to be [Music] the fence setting for that third cut is the one from the first one at 20 millimeters - the overlap which in my case was one point six millimeters so eighteen point four for the third setting and now I can assemble it to a complete drawer well a really small one calculating the length of it is actually the same as with the first one it can be a little different if the front and the back piece are different thicknesses then when you know the full length of the drawer the length of the side piece is this measurement minus this thickness minus this thickness plus two times to ten millimeters and then that's the length of one side piece now I can also glue that and I figured that I only need to apply glue to the front and back piece and only the surfaces that are out a bit cut so yeah basically all of the surfaces and then I can spread the glue to the other piece by just smearing it around like so and that gets all the mating surfaces pretty nicely covered with glue before I'm trying to break them I would say that these joints are perfectly adequate for the purpose of being a drawer because I don't see that a drawer really experiences that big forces but let's see how hard it is to break that now clamp to my workbench and trying to break it with a hammer all joints broke but it's not really that joint that fails but the woods the plywood layers just going to ripped apart I don't think that the solid wood will perform a lot better as you can see this is the spot where the plywood got ripped apart and this would be the same spot on the solid wood and that's also where I think it's going to break because there's no solid wood fiber that supports this part directly and for this one I'm using a clamp to break it a little slower and as you can see where it got ripped apart is exactly the same spot as before I guess it's obvious that this is not the strongest corner joint and also only as strong as the wood is so the optimal wood choice would be hardwood but that on the other hand is very expensive again it will never be as strong as a nicely made box joint through our so a heavily used raw that also holds heavy stuff I will always use box joints but for another general purpose drawer that you use every once in a while I still think this is perfectly adequate and also compared to box joints it's probably ten times quicker to produce and especially when you make multiple drawers I guess it's obvious that this is not a strongest corner joint and also only as strong as the wood is so the optimum oil and that and really saves time for cutting the joinery and I will definitely try it out for building my next workbench where I have many plaus doors drawers planned huh

Channel: Marius Hornberger

Views: 100,015

Rating: 4.9329734 out of 5

Keywords: woodworking, workshop, DIY, homemade, How to, selfmade, jig, random, stuff, machinery, making, make, tbalesaw, bandsaw, drillpress, tools, woodshop, interesting, awesome, thinking, smart, video, tutorial, art, nice, great, good, crazy, how to, how, to, router, bit, drawer, ENT, instructions, corner, joints

Id: 1hjdxVHJim0

Length: 17min 10sec (1030 seconds)

Published: Fri May 29 2020