How to Trim and Rehang a Door

Haemon back in my spare room and today I'm going to show you the process I've gone through to rehang the door and it's a little bit more tricky than you'd normally think because I've narrowed the doorway slightly and like everything in this house the doorway is massively off square so I'm gonna have a little bit of trimming to do hinge adjustments and really / the door furch and that sort of thing [Applause] for those of you kind subscribers who follow my videos regularly you'll see that the carpet has now been installed in the spare room all the paintings been done a knock at door lining that's been featuring in various recent videos has been filled and painted with a couple of plates of primarily a couple of coats of eggshell top coat so this is the door you'll see it's sitting at a mad angle in relation to the door frame because it's got a very weird cutout on the most of the door because this is not Victorian cottage and I don't think this door frame is particularly square saying the door itself has been cut down over the years saying that it fits into the doorway the first ever do is remove this disgusting dated well some of you might quite like it 1970s door furniture you're thinking of buying power tool you might consider one of these from Raabe I use this tool more often actually bought it because I was doing a job for clients in Switzerland a couple years ago so I need to suddenly really need to put my hand luggage and I also bought this at the time so a real shame that Ryobi don't seem to stock it at the moment I think I bought it at being at the same time as I bought the drill for the same reason and just check this out I have replaced a few of the components over the years but it's just a lovely little tool belt little ports we'll talk about that has most of the screwdriver bits that you'd need on a regular basis you've got the HSS drill bits wood drill bits a couple of masonry drill bits you've got nut drivers pH ones twos or threes peasy twos and threes various sizes of TX cream it but the reason I'm showing you this is because right now I need probably this one a sr5 now you may be able to lift this door próxima into position seal or quite off cutting down today I basically got about 80 ml to take off the door and what I'm going to do is I'm going to take off both sides of the door so I end up with two nice planed edges on each side of the door normally I'm doing my cutting and sending outside but as a weathers foul at the moment I'm going to do it in here say what world sort my stanley sawhorses up literally just going to use the top to do my cutting that is why sawhorses a brilliant even if you don't convert them into a portable workshop table like I did a couple of weeks ago right switch the lights out and I put my Dewar laser level in here just to show you how mad this door frame is look how far out to square this door frame is 22 millimetres off square so this has got what I got to put up with a hand factor into the adjustments to my door now I want to get this door to fit the old wonky framed snug as possible even if that means adding bits to other parts of the door so the first thing I need to do is take the incredibly uneven frame as I'm demonstrating now and reflecting that on the door using my sliding bevel taking the bevel here and basically marked on the door line the bevel is showing and I'm doing exactly the same thing on this side let me just push the bevel up into the corner of the frame now I'm just with a piece of wood make sure the two lines meet up and Marty with a pencil now normally when I'm adjusting door friends I'd used my electric plane it's a day I'm gonna show you our circular saw can do a really good job on cutting down a door measuring the distance from the blade to the guide as 28 mil and then I'm positioning my piece of wood 28 mph from the edge of the door and then making a type of one of these brilliant little clamps I've just bought from Axminster first so I've done this a lot of people will be watching this video think you know if you had a Festool you'd have a proper fence you have a proper tour guide that's all coming I'm going to be making a guide soon and I'll show you a video on that but right now I'm just using a good old piece of wood I'm doing about the video soon on my circular saw but for the sake of today's video a crucial thing you got to make sure when using one of these circular saws is that the blade goes just down below surface you're cutting if you make it too you make it go down too far you can find the blade wonders and that's what I'm one of the first bought this I actually bought this and then thought you don't know what every time I use it the blade wanders and I stop using it until a good friend of mine pointed out where I was going wrong so I'm just pumping that down so he goes so I've got to sound pretty pleased with that it's cut a beautiful square line no sign that the blade has wandered so I'll be using this circular saw a lot more for this or that now the next step is to take five millimeters off the side of the door to make it more in line with where it should be in the frame itself this time I'm going to use the little fence that comes with the circular saw because I know that with the fence I'm going to get a brilliant consistent cut particularly given that I'm lining the fence up so close to the saw blade so I'm just setting it so that the saw is going to cut on the outer edge of that five millimeter line anyway we go see that's the cut I go a little bit of fine-tuning of the door state now I know that this side of the door is square so I'm gonna do my fine-tuning on the other angle and this time I'm going to use my wood plane measures the door frame width for the top the middle and the bottom so I know exactly how wide the door should be if I'm also gonna take five mil off that so the door fits as it hinges into the frames I'll then go a lot of straight piece of timber that's longer than the door itself so I can stretch it across the length and I've marked a line on the door showing my whoops remove now I just need to get planing [Music] unless you started with my plane on quite a deep setting to remove a fair amount of timber and as I get closer to the line I can adjust the depth setting on the plane too much finer cut [Music] just using this straightedge to check the door is nice and straight I've done a combination square pretty sure I've planed the door nice and square so the door now fits when I moved into the house this door is a bit of a mess and carpenters obviously put it in whether the floors have changed whether the walls have moved over the years but I've got a thumping rapid gap at the top now I'm going to check when the hinges are in whether that's because as the door opens it hits the floor but in the meantime I've got this handy little tool I'm a prime piece of 4x2 which I actually made so that I could put it under plaster board and Jack last brought up to the ceiling when I was dry lining but I'm not going to use this to good effect on this door so and put the little jack underneath the door no I've got my foot on it and lift the door up and down the reason why that's good is I can now press down on than my little pivot raising the door up to I want it off the seat off the top of the door lining about there now I can mark my hinges so I've got one hinge mark there now you can't sit on the shop I'm just marking the bottom hinge I've got mine just marked so I can now get the bottom hinge marked off in exactly the right place check this out guys have just found another brilliant little use for these clamps clamping up the sawhorse to my door right so you can see here the marks that I've made on the door a moment ago now I need to do is get my hinge put it up against the marks and mark the position that I've got to rebait and then look at the things of the hinge I'm gonna do a rebate into the door off proximately two millimeters no I'm gonna do is I'm gonna mark this rebated section here with the chisel as well it's just splitting the paintwork but what I want to do he's got a nice neat line these are some molded wooden doors pretty nasty things really so I have chipped the paint worker there but what I will get as a consequence of doing this there's a nice neat line when I start to chisel out the top of the hinge spit labor-intensive this if you make the effort at this stage makes it so much easier to remove the rebate of section of him I'm cutting it an angle did you see that's encouraging the little leaves to lift up and you only want to space about two to three millimeters apart because then they really start to come away now even just rubbing away at them makes them start to come away I'm going to get through this hardboard front layer of the door because it's bit problematic otherwise I often do this point is I just get my hinge and offer it up to see where the high points are [Music] and then just drilling pilot holes I always like Phillip eyelet hole into the actual hinge itself so that the screw doesn't wander and throw the hinge out of position right the idea of hangar door can be pretty intimidating but if you've lined up the hinges as I showed you earlier on it should just be a question once you're ready to hang the door off getting in position and then putting the screws in place now the way I get the door into position is by getting a block of wood underneath the door to exactly the right height so that you literally then just pivoting the door into place and then putting the screws in using that wedge that I showed you yesterday is actually a really good tool for this because of the end on it you can literally slide it up or down the door to get the door in exactly the right height rather than having to constantly offer up lots of different bits of wood now once you've got a high height simply question off swinging the door into place I always put a middle screw in just to start with and now I can work on the bottom hinge at this point I'm just lifting it away from the wedge look at that fits beautifully again quick screw into the center hole and then that's it but for me the story doesn't end that by a long way because what I've got to do now with my uneven doorframes you see it up see words shutter it would shut the toxic got a nice gap but it doesn't know the bottom so bringing the door to the frame and then I'm marking against the door what I've got to remove so now it's back to my electric plane to take off that thin sliver from the bottom of the door so that it can shut properly [Music] [Music] all data closes another remain to do now was to cut a piece of timber to go on the underside of the door to make up the gap that we've got and I've done this by cuttings for a piece of 18 millimeter deep Plains timber [Music] now with the Philippi someplace on the bottom of the door I need to just replicate the bunkers angle of my floor which and there is 18 mil deeper in the center and taping back to 14 minute sides now that philippe's has done the job beautifully tuck up the door actually fits I might just take a tiny bit more off you can hear it just brushing against the carpet at the edges and then there's just a little bit of edge and a little bit in the middle do I go overboard because I've already taken a little bit too much off the side of the door when I did this when I played the bottom of the door I went a bit over the top with this plane and just caught the the veneer on the front of this are the nasty miles of door so I'm just using my trusty two-part filler to say they were the sort of gashes and you achieve a brilliant resulting using my views my continental filler knife which is a nice little tool is not easy just use a standard decorator's nice to do this but the fellows knife just gives you a little bit more feel and touch you just get a nice slightly nicer job and as you'll see from watching any of my videos on wood finning the smoother the less residue you can leave on the surface easier is to sound an off afterwards there it is near the lights and 120 drain paper [Music] ready for painting i prime the entire door using my trusty John stones John Krell wood based primer under Kate gotta say I do not enjoy painting I'm using for this acrylic durable eggshell from Johnsons so that's it a little bit of a long unwieldy video and I'll probably get a few people commenting saying for all that way why don't you buy a new door well that's sort of the way I'm rolling on this house refurb have got that amount of money to go out and replace things so I'm just trying to repair patch up and renovate whenever wherever I can and I hope you're great the overall finished effect has been worth all the effort if you're wondering how I installed the new tubular latch and the doorknobs where I got them all from is a link coming up on the screen now to that video that I did a few weeks ago so hope you've all found this video useful and Nikki's got a few for watch the whole of this video thank you for your patience in waiting I know you asked me a few weeks ago when I was going to post this video so thank you all for continuing to watch my videos I will be posting a couple of quite interesting videos in the next couple of weeks on my new favorite tool the circular so I recently bought that's revolutionized my ability to cut long sheets of wood and also I'll be doing an upgrade to my folding workbench table which is sort of related to the circular saw video as ever if you've liked today's video please click on the like button below and if you're new to my channel I'd love to have you subscribe you can do that by clicking on the link here

Channel: Charlie DIYte

Views: 445,999

Keywords: how to trim and rehang a door, hinges, charlie diyte, hollow core door, interior door, how to hinge and hang a door

Id: 7J9mEOk11-I

Length: 22min 54sec (1374 seconds)

Published: Mon Apr 16 2018