How To Tie The Auto-Block, Prusik And Klemheist Friction Hitches

[Music] [Music] i'm patrick ormond NGA instructor team member and i'm going to show a series of friction hitches so the first one is the auto block auto block commonly gets used as a backup for rappelling and it's quite easy to tie it's just wrapping the cord around the rope you just have to wrap it as many times as it takes to bike so on a single strand it might take more wraps and on a double strand with rel so see that's biting pretty well there this has good holding power it's the least amount of holding power of these friction hitches the nice thing about the auto block is that it's releasable under load so if you let it come tight while you're rappelling you need to manage the rope then it's easy to get started again so that's the auto block next one is a press a kitc do a three wrap rusick and prusik we're going to pass an end through I'll use the knotted end of this cord and I'm going to go through three times and then pull that tight and make sure that this is well dressed twisting out of here so rustic they're more holding power than the auto block probably grabs the best of all these and it is multi-directional not releasable under load so it's not ideal as a repel backup it's great for a rope grab on raising systems once it's cinched down if you need to unload it or release it you can pull out on the tongue there and that loosens the hitch up that's a prusik and then the final one is a Klem height and some hice is really easy to tie as well works well with cord also works well with webbing works better than a prusik with webbing so for this it's a little more directional I'm going to wrap towards the load and if I let me keep this neat and dressed and again many wraps as it takes to bite and then I'm going to task the long end here through the tongue of the hitch and drabs the pulling away from the load they're there Clem heist nice when you're tying with a quarter let because you don't have to pass the whole end through every time you do a wrap so these three hick friction hitches their auto block prusik Clem ice each have their appropriate uses so it's practice in the norm you

Channel: Outdoor Research

Views: 104,427

Rating: 4.9443536 out of 5

Keywords: outdoor research, amga, american mountain guides, friction hitch, autoblock, auto-block, auto bloc, knot, hitch, rappel, prusik, klemheist

Id: wjRy_iBRUyk

Length: 4min 38sec (278 seconds)

Published: Mon Jan 16 2017