These are Puljaks. (popping sound) We're gonna show you what
they are, and how to use them. They're designed to stretch
your chain link for you. So, what we're gonna do
is we're gonna go ahead, and put this piece on the chain link here. We're gonna put this thing,
this piece on the post, the tension bar fits
right here in the notch. (ding) And as you pull on the handle, what happens is it pulls
this piece through here, this being on the post, and it brings your
chain link to your post. That way you can
terminate your chain link. And this, this particular piece, the rod, would just then pass past the post. So, we're gonna show you
how we're gonna use this, to stretch it. All right, here we go. So, we're gonna go ahead
and put the Puljack on here. (upbeat music) We're gonna, huh? Oh dear. I can't do this because
the Puljack has to slide, there's a building there. (pop, pop, pop, pop) So, the Puljack has to
go through the building, to be able to use this. So, I'm gonna go get my
tin snips and my grinder, and we're gonna cut a hole right here. So, that way we can use our Puljack. (upbeat music) You really think I'd cut a
hole in somebody's building? We're gonna use a reverse Puljack, (trumpet flourish) it looks like one of those like, like, "caw, caw, caw" birds. You know, like, "caw,
caw-caw", does it not? This is a reverse Puljack, to be used in a scenario, just like this. When you have an obstruction, and that rod, being this
cannot travel past the post. That's gonna travel down the fence line. So, we still have our notch, right here, where our tension bar's gonna sit. And then we have our V-groove, for our post to sit, right there. If you're in need of some of these, make sure and see the link below. Now up top, holding our
chain link up for us, and it's gonna slide
along the top rail for us, so we don't have to try and lift it, up in case the Puljack's
fall, and our top-row dresser. If you haven't seen the
videos of those in use, see up here, and see
the link below for that I think we'll go about right there. (metal clinking) (upbeat music continues
over metal clinking) I'm gonna go ahead and
throw a second one on, and I'm gonna throw it on,
right below the mid-rail. If you run two, it just
helps 'em to work together so that you're not
stressing one of 'em out, and you're not stressing yourself out. If you run one, you can do it with one, but it's a lot more of a pain in the butt. And, it's a lot easier to run two. but be careful, because as I run this one, you're gonna watch and
see that this one's gonna try to fall and hit me in the head. Don't turn your back on it. (upbeat music) (metal clinking) So, as this one started
bringing the chain link closer, what happened, is this one loosened up, because the chain link was sliding over. Now, making it a little bit
easier for me to pull on it. (upbeat music over metal clinking) I almost think I got this
one in the wrong spot. (clinking and pounding) I had one up here, and
I had one down here. What happened was, I had 'em too far apart for how tight it was getting. I brought them closer together, to help each other out, and worked better because I had this one
all the way to the post, but then from here, here to here, there's still a big gap. So, as I got them closer, I was able to eliminate that gap, and I'll just work them down. We'll put two tension bands on, to terminate the very top two. And then we'll take these
off and move 'em down. (metal clinking) (drill buzzing) Now that we have our two
tension bands on there, we can go ahead and remove this. And now we can put it below that top rail. So, the reason that we
were getting so tight at the top, is because we
actually did a backwards bias cut on this run right here, because
we're going through a swell. We have a post here and a post here. And then in between the
fence, there is the dip. So, we had to bias cut each end, to be able to pull the fabric tight, through that whole entire dip. (upbeat music) (drill buzzing) Once all the terminations are done, and all the tension bands are on, you can remove your top-rail dresser, and you can remove your Puljacks. So these are two different types of Puljacks that you can use. That is a standard Puljack. This is designed to travel past the post. So, if you have a building in your way, there's something, to the point where that rod can't travel past through. You're gonna want a reverse. See the link below, for those two types of Puljacks. Why wouldn't you just always
use a reverse Puljack, and get rid of this one,
the standard Puljack? So, what I typically do with the standard Puljack is, I'm usually using these
on a short, short run, 50 feet or less. If it's more than that, I'll
put a chain link brake on it, because anything more than that, you're gonna put a lot of wear
and tear on your Puljacks, and you're gonna wear
'em out a lot faster. So typically what I will do is, I will guess on where I need
to have that tension bar. I will put that tension bar
in and then I will stretch it. And most of the times I
can guess pretty accurate, to the point where I can
cut all the slack out, before it gets all bunched up in here. This one's gonna do the same thing. It's a little bit easier to
have that bar go out past you, versus go back towards the fence because you're having to
work around one more thing. Is it beneficial to have
both types of Puljacks? In my mind, yes. Do you have to? No. You could have just this one. As far as the working ability, I always find it easier to work this way, because then you're actually putting, you're putting the Jack
to the post, pulling it, versus this is the exact opposite. And it's a little bit
harder to pull on this one, than it is this one. So, I still 100 percent
prefer using this one, versus that one. Thanks for watching our channel. And, I hope I was able to help you out, and help you to learn something today, and show you something new. Don't forget, we are
Wyoming's fence company, and I hope you guys have a good dang day. (explosive burning sound)
