How To Sharpen A Stanley 45 or 55 Plane Iron Cutter

so when sharpening a stanley number 45 or 55 iron you're basically to come across two different things that you need number one is just a standard chisel and this is there's a basically just like you do any other chisel and then you have your molding planes your coves your beads that have these interior things that you can't quite get it so I want to kind of show you how we go about actually sharpening these so when sharpening a stanley number 45 or 55 iron you're basically to come across two different things that you need number one is just a standard chisel and this is this is basically just like you do any other chisel and then you have your molding planes your coves your beads that have these interior things that you can't quite get it so I want to kind of show you how we go about actually sharpening these now here I have my sharpening board and I have a fine a coarse a medium and a fine this one gets up to around 1200 grit and then a strop over here that I just used with a horse butt and a rubbing compound that I put into it so the first thing we want to do is flatten the backs of these two items and we do that by adding a little bit of window cleaner on the stones and I'm just going to put all my pressure on the tip here and then out here these fingers don't push down at all they just push the blade back and forth and I go just a little bit take a look at the iron and I can see that I'm flat here but this tip is not getting hit so I need to adjust that little bit more another way I might do it is just little in and outs like this and this can be done basically one finger and there I've gotten most everything I just need a little bit more in that corner still so let's go back over here just a little bit more aggressively because it's a longer stroke you need a little more still and once I've gotten the back on that nice and shiny all the way across I can move on to the next stone with the molding plane it's the exact same process this one I've already flattened to the back on it though so I'm not going to go into a whole lot of detail on that then I'll take it on to the medium because this is the stone I'm just going to do this and it doesn't take a whole lot I'm just changing the scratch pattern because this will leave scratches this starts to get things almost dull looking not being sharpened and yeah just that little bit there has gotten everything I need on that and then right over here the fine and that's pretty so the very last thing I'm going to do is I'm going to strop it about 30 strokes on a V strop 30 and you should be left with a mirror finish that you can actually see reflections in it which I can just pretty so then we're going to go on to do the other side on this one and this is going to take no time at all if I wanted to I can put this in a jig but for small things like this I really want to be prom with that I set it flat so that the bevel is down and then I put pressure on the bevel until it touches and you can kind of feel a contact point and it lock all my fingers on there I have one point one finger down on that bevel two fingers right behind it and I'm going to move my body at both angles and lock my wrists and arms and everything else at that angle and for this small of a space it's really not going to take much time until I'm cut all there crossed I'm starting to get a slight burn on the back do the exact same thing here set it tip it up onto the bevel move at the ankles lock everything else good good and then on to the strop 30 strokes and once I've gotten that up nice and shiny I have a burr on the back and so I'm just gonna set it on here put it on there just do one two three and I can't feel the Bur so I'm just going to give it a couple last little straps one side and the other and we can test it on the arm hairs and I love that getting this nice little bald spot also known as hand tool pattern baldness now this is a little bit more tricky in that I can't do that on the stone at all so basically what I need to do is use a sandpaper and I'm going to have a few different wooden rods that I can put on the sandpaper this way and then I can fit those rods into these different curves and so I can actually sand it down and some of you basically the exact same thing but I'm going to do it with 100 grit 200 grit and 400 grit and I want to stop at 400 grit you really don't need to go much of anything higher than that just like that and I'm going until I feel a slight burr on the back just like that and then I'm gonna March up through the grits so the exact same thing as that but then I'm going to do it with the two hundred grit paper and this may sound like I'm really not hitting with enough grit or I'm not taking my time and doing it perfectly but honestly we doesn't make that much difference when you go with one that is you know perfect and mirrored on all surfaces and one that really hasn't been all that amazingly done now that I have cleaned out this s-curve from there to there I need to do this little point and this little point up here and then I'm gonna get another dowel to go into this small space up in here so for those little flat spots I'll actually just do them on here and I just do it on this fine make them nice and shiny do the same thing to here let it overhang flat spots looks good and because I I really don't care a whole lot about stropping in this corner and you can get a piece of leather and roll it over and run it in there really I haven't seen a need for that and I can get just as sharp without doing that and so now that I have this burr running all over the back I'm gonna set on here just like that make sure we've gotten rid of the burr make sure the bird doesn't go over on to the other side and then strop it off and there is the cutter hehe I love seeing here pop up like that and to a pattern baldness so let's put this in the plane and see what it does keeping it tight up against the fence so even worth running into a knot here ended up with a fairly nice moulding and I could use it on something so there you go that's how you sharpen it so there you have it a newly sharpened iron for stanley 55 or stanley 45 they're all basically the same and whether it's just a simple quarter-inch that's just like a chisel or a really ornate molding iron you get the idea they're fairly simple and fairly quick forward once you once you learn the skills so I hope you like this video if you did please hit like and think about subscribing I want to say a huge thank you to the patrons on patreon you guys are absolutely phenomenal and a huge encouragement to me so thank you if you did like the video feel free to check out one of the other videos you might find something there you like and until next time have a wonderful day

Channel: Wood By Wright

Views: 15,064

Rating: 4.9119806 out of 5

Keywords: Stanley 45, stanley 55, Hand plane, sharpening plane irons, woodworking, Handtools, Hand Tools, Hardwood, Hardwoods, Wood By Wright, combination plane, How to sharpen cutters, Irons, Blades, blade cutter iron

Id: WZ3hO4UnNQM

Length: 10min 5sec (605 seconds)

Published: Thu Jul 21 2016