How To Sharpen A Chisel Incredibly Sharp For $25 / Scary Sharp Sharpening Method For Chisels

i've had some more time with the scary sharp system since my last upload and i've also figured out a way to make a 25 sharpening station that is going to work great specifically for chisels for 25 we're going to get a piece of float glass remember the last kit was three pieces this one is only going to be the one 5 16 of an inch thick five inches wide 12 inches tall we're also going to get a piece of foam rubber what looks like shelf liner this goes underneath our glass in between the glass and our work surface and this is going to give us some stability a little non-slip action for an adhesive to go on our glass we have this adhesive backed film now this is not paper this was something that got brought up in the last videos that people were under the impression that this was paper this is actually like a plastic almost very durable it is not like wet dry sandpaper we peel the back off just like a sticker we stick it to our glass that's all there is to it we're actually going to cut this up and i'll show you guys that here in just a second so we have different colors that means we have different grits we start with a 300 we go to a 600 1200 1800 8 000 14 060 000 for a bit of context my normal sharpening system is this trend diamond stone i do recommend it but again this is like roughly 120 dollars versus 25 dollars there's a bit of a difference here um 300 on one side a thousand on one side i use the 300 similar to this blue for rough work maybe i get a nick maybe i haven't sharpened for a while maybe i need to reestablish a bevel that's probably where i'm going to hit the 3000 1000 for overall polishing of the secondary bevel or maybe it's the only bevel on there but that's going to do the final shaping and then i'll either hit it with the 8 000 stone or i'll hit it with the leather strap we're going to talk more about leather strap here in just a second now we can push and pull we can cut on the pull stroke we can cut on the push stroke both like i've shown you in the last video and i'll show you again today without tearing this now there seems to be some controversy as far as the overall cost sure it only costs 25 out of the box but if you replace the paper if it doesn't last very long how much time are you gonna get with it until it costs the same as a decent diamond stone to begin with a harder steel is going to take longer to sharpen you're going to be sharpening for longer periods of time however if you're sharpening a decent harder steel it's going to retain its edge longer and of course as long as you're maintaining certain angles you're probably going to retain that edge longer which means you might be sharpening more at one time but the distance between then and the next time you sharpen is expanded soft steels obviously they're going to grind away metal really fast but they're also going to wear out a lot faster traditionally as well so it just really depends on that also depends on how often you're using i've read where some people have used one kit that they've got they've it's lasted them a year and a half before ever replacing the film i assume they're not sharpening very often maybe they're not using their chisels very often what i recommend is doing a primary sharpening on this getting myself a razor sharp edge and then like i normally do i just keep a strop nearby these can be bought really cheap in fact you can get ones like this this one's got a corner knocked off of it these are almost like scrap pieces that didn't quite make the cut as i'm doing whatever it is that i'm doing i just need to quickly reestablish that nice fine beveled edge i'll just hit it on the strop that takes care of me i don't have to go back to my sharpening station as long as you do that with most chisels i believe you're going to be fine for quite a while which means again you're not going back to the sharpening station of course if you wanted to keep this kit the way it is you don't want to invest the leather strop you could just hit it on these lighter grits down here as far as longevity goes i will also say these towards this end remember this is like 300 and 600 again those are probably going to be more for establishing a bevel which means these probably aren't going to get used as much as the upper grits this is going to be more like like maintaining that bevel i think that's about it what i want to do is i want to cut these up so again normally these are going to come about three inches longer we used these in the last video and we took a three inch strip off of there we're going to cut these into inch and a half strips we're going to lay them strategically on our glass all right we're going to start by cleaning off one side of our piece of glass what we don't want is any foreign material to slide underneath now i'm going to start i kept these in order so i'm going to start with the 300 grit and what i'm going to do is peel back a little bit here i'm just going to kind of center it this way so i got a little bit here a little bit there we'll just put it down here on the edge relatively straight it really doesn't matter and then i can simply peel it and stick it down and i'll just do the same thing for each one of these grits as i go one thing that i noticed as i've been experimenting here is that sharpie will write on this film really well so we can start with our 300 our 600 1200 1800 8 000 14 00 and 60 000. great so once that dries it's going to be on there permanently now i've tried this with water and it hasn't moved we're actually going to use wd-40 for this now the reason is is because i originally thought that you could use this with water and you can but the problem is is the water can get underneath and mess with the adhesive now on that note you can get other lapping film that is even more coarse grits than the 300. we can go 120 grit 180 grit and 250 grit which is going to work great for really heavy material removal this stuff water hates it this stuff water is actually okay but in the name of consistency we're actually going to use a little bit of wd-40 as our lubricant all right what i have is a brand new narex chisel i've lapped the back we're going to spray a little bit of wd-40 on here we can kind of spread it out all right we're going to start with that 300 because i don't have a secondary bevel on here some people do secondary bevels some people don't that's a different video entirely but i'm going to actually put a secondary bevel on here it's a one inch wide chisel and what i want to do is just get it on here and go back and forth it doesn't really matter the amount of time guys might be able to see a little bit of metal slurry building up down there by the numbers i want to check the back of this for a burr i'm going to go just a little bit longer now keep in mind this is a a brand new chisel it's never had a secondary bevel put on it which means that this isn't going to take very long at all because we're putting a very small bevel on here all right now i can feel i've got something going all the way across here okay so now we're just going to hit the 600 i'm just gonna go right through all the grits one two three four 5 6 7 8 9 10. i'm going to do that to each of them now on this end let's get rid of our honing guide real quick and you don't have to use a honing guide with this by the way i'm gonna lay this flat on here like this i'm just gonna pull i'm just keeping pressure right here on this so that i'm not tipping at all and that's just going to get rid of any kind of a micro burr that's on there i don't know if you guys can see that or not but hopefully you're going to be able to see that little micro bevel that's on there there you go now let's see how sharp it is all right now this is one of those really uncomfortable situations where i only have one shot to do this this is a piece of scrap walnut that i have it's really good to do these tests on pine because pine isn't as dense but what i want to do is just bring this in here and shave end grain and as you can see we have these nice curls or at least i hope you can see of end grain end grain is really difficult just if you know of course anything about wood you'll know that it's really hard to curl end grain and end grain itself doesn't cut very well to begin with we can almost break that apart it's pretty good but as you can see it slices through here very easily hopefully that gives you an idea of what to expect with this kit again for 25 dollars i think it's a pretty good buy i'll leave links to everything in the description as always and i highly recommend getting a strop a strop is going to carry you in between sharpenings i get my final bevel on here my final sharpening whatever however sharp i want that to be and then when i notice it's getting a little bit dull or maybe that edge isn't quite as crisp as it was before i'll hit it on a leather strap that changes everything it rejuvenates that edge and it keeps me away from sharpening and i can just keep working which of course is what this is all about 25 like i said and everything is in there because we cut those into one and a half inch strips you're going to have plenty of material left over to start replacing those strips as need be which again is going to be different for everyone anyways hopefully all that made sense and if you guys have further questions please leave them down the comment section i'll be sure to keep an eye on it so i got for you guys today thanks so much for watching i'll see you guys in the next video

Channel: Inspire Woodcraft

Views: 139,590

Rating: 4.9035368 out of 5

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Id: yQEkl0K3vto

Length: 10min 48sec (648 seconds)

Published: Fri Jul 02 2021