How to sew the Tremont Crossbody Bag (Tutorial 5 of 6) - Bag Assembly

[Music] hello this is susannah from hold it right there sewing patterns you're watching the tremont crossbody bag sew along tutorials to make this bag please purchase the sewing pattern linked below on my website in my previous videos we made the exterior and the lining we're ready now to add the main double pull zipper and assemble the bag locate your double pull zipper if you are using continuous zipper tape measure and cut a 32 inch length double pull zipper for zipper by the yard or continuous zipper tape only baste over the zipper teeth at the left and right ends to prevent the zipper pulls from falling off the zipper teeth while sewing if you are using a purchased zipper it must be at least 32 inches in length it can be longer these often come in 36 inch lengths and if so do not trim it yet leave the extra length and we will trim it at the end of the bag construction fold the zipper in half matching short side to short side to determine its center with a fabric pen mark the zipper center above and below the zipper teeth on the right side of the zipper tape locate the lining panels and exterior panels we will now mark the top centers so that we can join the panels to the zipper to do this fold aligning panel wrong sides together mark or notch the center crease at the top edge on the right side of the lining front and the right side of the lining back fold the exterior panel front right sides together at the top edge once again mark or notch the center crease at the top edge on the wrong side of the exterior panel front and repeat with the exterior panel back marking the top center on the wrong side set aside the bag exterior for now place the lining panel front the side with the card pocket unit right side up match the center marking on the double pole zipper with the center marking on the lining panel front pin or clip the zipper right side up on the lining panel be sure the gussets are facing toward the center of the panel and the zipper is clipped or pinned on top of the gussets move the zipper pulls to one end of the zipper for ease of installation using a 1 8 inch seam allowance first tack the top center right bottom and left bottom of the zipper this will prevent the zipper from shifting placement while installing to tack the zipper just sew a couple of inches basting 1 8 inch seam allowance at the top center and the bottom sides keeping the zipper in place also ensures that the boxed corners at the end of the bag construction are even mark the zipper tape where it meets the bottom edge of the lining panel above the notch this marking is another way to make sure that our bag lines up at the end of construction and that the boxed corners come out evenly sew the remainder of the zipper to the lining panel front using a 1 8 inch seam allowance because the curved edges can be a little tricky to sew i like to cut tiny 1 8 inch snips in the zipper tape to ease it around the curves another tip is to apply double-sided tape to keep the zipper in place around the curves and to prevent it from shifting you can also ease the zipper tape as needed while you're sewing which i'm doing here cutting the tiny snips as i go to flatten the zipper so that i can sew it to the curved edges locate your front and back exterior panels right sides together match the center marking on the top of the exterior panel front the side with a zipper pocket to the center marking on the zipper pin or clip together the zipper is now sandwiched between the panels next match up the bottom edges of the two panels and clip in place and then clip the remainder of the panels together follow steps 50 and 51 to sew the zipper to the exterior panel front but this time be sure to use a quarter inch seam allowance [Music] trim the seam allowance close to the stitching this will reduce bulk when top stitching later be careful not to cut through the stitching or the zipper tape if you are using overlay 2 it is helpful to remove some of the basting stitches with your seam ripper so that you can trim the seam allowance a little closer and get rid of some of the excess overlay trimming these tiny seam allowances does take a little time especially removing the basting stitches to do so but it really will give you a professional result and is worth the extra effort once the seam allowances are trimmed turn the exterior front and lining front panels right side out press the zipper away from the fabric be sure that you press the gussets so that they are facing the center of the bag lining to protect your nylon zipper from the heat of your iron you may want to use a pressing cloth i'm just using an old scrap of fabric and i'm layering it on top of my bag over my zipper so that the iron is not directly against the zipper on the exterior side of your bag it can be a little tricky to iron the zipper close to the overlay so i'm just putting a pot holder that i keep in my sewing room for this purpose i'm protecting the overlay from the iron and then i can iron the zipper pretty well with this method top stitch 1 8 inch from the seam and be sure that you capture the gussets in the top stitching so the gussets need to be facing inward and captured in the stitching since my overlay and fabric are different colors i'm going to top stitch my overlay first and then switch my thread colors before i topstitch i'm going to be sure that my gusset is tucked under my bag and is facing toward the lining i'm now going to top stitch 1 8 inch from the from the edge and i'm using top stitching thread that coordinates with my overlay i've switched thread colors and i'm now going to top stitch the rest of my bag exterior front i'm using a longer stitch length and again a 1 8 inch seam the zipper tends to curve upward as your top stitching so take your time and one tip that you may find helpful is to unzip the zipper while you're topstitching [Music] the front of your tremont is now top stitched next locate the lining panel back this is the side with the zip pocket place the panel right side up center the zipper marking with the center mark at the top edge of the lining panel back this is step 55 in your instructions you want to make sure that you are lining up the marking on the zipper with the notch on your lining panel and you can keep the zipper closed as i am in this video being sure that your lining panel is right side up and the zipper is also right side up in the pattern instructions the photograph shows the zipper open while i am attaching the zipper you can do it either way zipper unzipped or zipper zipped just be sure that the lining panel is right side up and the zipper is right side up if your zipper is open just be careful that it doesn't become twisted i find it helpful to attach the zipper while it is open but because we're using such a long zipper you do want to be careful it doesn't become twisted as you're installing it pin or clip together once again refer to steps 50 and 51 for installing this section of the zipper and this time use a 1 8 inch seam allowance to sew the zipper to the lining panel back just as you did before in step 50 you're going to begin by first tacking the top center then the bottom right and the bottom left this helps keep the zipper from shifting while installing i've sewn my lining panel back to my zipper using a 1 8 inch seam allowance and i'm going to zip my zipper up for this step right sides together match the center marking on the top of the exterior panel back this is the side with the slip pocket to the center marking on the zipper pin or clip in place check to see that the markings you made earlier on the zipper are also lined up with the bottoms of the bag match up the bottom edges of the lining panel back and the exterior panel back pin or clip together repeat on the opposite side of the bag matching up the bottom edges of the lining panel back with the bottom edges of the exterior panel back and you can see here i have a tiny bit of access overlay that i'm going to trim off because it's really important that the box corners line up so that the finished result is even once you're happy with the bottom edges of the bag lining up then clip in place once again follow steps 50 and 51 to sew the zipper in place and again begin by tacking the zipper at the top and the bottom sides sew using a quarter inch seam allowance then trim the seam allowance of the exterior panel back close to the stitching as you did in step 53 once you've trimmed the seam allowances turn the exterior back and lining panel back right side out this point our bag is really starting to come together be sure to give the bag a good press taking care when ironing over nylon zipper coils and when ironing near the overlay with your bag pressed the zipper pressed away from the fabric and the gussets pressed so that they are facing the center of the lining you're ready to top stitch once again top stitch 1 8 inch from the edge be sure to capture the gussets in the top stitching fully open the zipper in the lining panel it is very important to keep this zipper unzipped for the next steps turn the panels wrong side out right sides together pin or clip the bottom edges of the lining panels sew using a half inch seam allowance to make it easier to sew the lining panels together i sew a few stitches in the middle and then sew the remainder i find that the lining panels kind of want to pull apart as i'm sewing and so i just find it easier to do it in steps so i sew a segment to join the front and back lining panels and then go back and sew the rest turn the bag right side out through the opening in the lining zip pocket keep the lining zip pocket extended out of the zipper for the next few steps after you've pressed your bag well zip up the zipper part way and turn your bag so that the lining is facing outside we're now going to form the boxed corners working from the lining side of the bag join the corner bottom to the corner side matching the seams as you're matching the seam make sure it is centered with the zipper teeth then pin or clip the boxed corner together and repeat on the opposite side of the bag [Music] sew with a half inch seam allowance on both sides of the bag because of all the thicknesses sewing through this step in the bag i switch to a denim needle and use my walking foot to keep all the layers from shifting another tip is to sew first with a quarter inch seam allowance kind of as just a rough sewing line and then once i have that in place i go back and do my kneader final half inch seam allowance last tip for this step is to use something called a hump jumper or i'm just wedging a triple folded maybe quadruple folded piece of vinyl under my presser foot as i'm coming to the the difference in the levels of thickness i can now much more easily sew across this bulky seam and avoid skipped stitches trim the excess zipper even with the boxed corner on both sides of the bag locate both 2 inch by 5 inch seam binding strips fold in half wrong sides together long sides touching and press unfold then fold each long raw edge to meet the center crease and press again fold in half matching the long folded edges and press repeat with a second piece of seam binding face the bottom of the bag lining towards you for this step center the right side of a long raw edge of one of your seam binding pieces with the bottom side raw edge of one of the boxed corners approximately one inch of seam binding will extend beyond the boxed corner wrap the seam binding ends around the boxed corner and then pin or clip sew using a quarter inch seam allowance using a heavier needle will help and just take your time and go slowly fold the seam binding away from the boxed corner and face the side of the bag towards you fold the short raw edges of the seam binding inward then fold the remaining long edge of the seam binding over top of the boxed corner pin or clip in place sew using a half inch seam allowance the boxed corner is now fully enclosed in the seam binding repeat on the opposite box corner with the second piece of seam binding fold in and press the raw edge of the lining zip pocket then sew it shut 1 8 inch from the fold push the pocket back inside the zipper so that it is hidden within the lining we are working from the lining side of the bag for this step pin or clip the gussets together matching the long finished edges the fabric one sides are facing together and you will see your fabric too or lining fabric facing out toward you repeat on the opposite side of the bag matching the gussets and then pinning or clipping them together using a 1 8 inch seam allowance sew the gussets along the long finished edge and you'll do this on both sides of the bag turn the bag right side out and press out any wrinkles your gorgeous tremont bag is assembled all that's left is to create the adjustable crossbody strap join me for the final video in this series as we create the strap thanks for watching happy sewing [Music] you

Channel: Hold it Right There Patterns

Views: 1,263

Keywords: Tremont Crossbody Bag, Hold it Right There, Tremont, Hold it patterns, sewing, bag making, crossbody bag, cross body bag, sewing tutorial, sew, bag, bagmaking, learn to sew, how to sew, how to make a bag, zipper, dome bag, how to make a zippered bag

Id: rNHx29Z-SOc

Length: 19min 2sec (1142 seconds)

Published: Thu Oct 21 2021