How to Sew Men's Pants

in a previous video i shared how i draft a pants pattern based on my own unique measurements editing corn do us a solid share that link thank you and so in this video we're going to take all those pattern pieces and turn them into a full-on pair of pants good news turns out the techniques i'm demonstrating here can be used for any pattern so if you've got your own use that here's the techniques and and finally editing corn once more let's uh show all the chapters of the different techniques we're going to be demonstrating so if you want to skip around and just pick and choose you can do that too all right enough for this yammering get to work you know [Music] i'm starting by trimming out the big pattern pieces first i need two of this front piece and i need them to mirror each other and so to save fabric i cut them out one at a time and i take this first piece flip it over and then rotate it so that i can align it as best as possible and now trim out piece number two i am now repeating this process with the back panels now fabrics sometimes have a bit of stretch in one direction like mine and the key is to have it running this way because it allows for movement in the hips this way but it's kind of useless if it runs up and down the legs for the fly i'm first cutting out one piece as is single layer for the second piece i've folded some fabric in half and then i've aligned the fly piece with the folded edge trim this out as well this is the pattern piece that goes in the front pocket right here to cover the lining and i need two of these pieces of course mirroring each other again always being consistent with the stretch these are the two pieces we cut for the back welt pocket and i need two of each of these for a total of four that's the three inch one that's the five inch one now my waistband i folded my fabric in half and i'm aligning it with the folded edge and this is the thicker of the two pattern pieces a second piece of this so repeating it once more these rectangles are my belt loops and they're one and a quarter inches by three and three quarter inches and yes uh it's only thanks to the power of editing that we're cutting this out when we should be i forgot so that's all the pieces uh for the outside fabric now the pocket lining fabric i have folded it in half that's the folded edge of course the inside of the pocket is aligned with that fold we're going to need two copies of this and if your fabric has a wrong side of course make sure to once again mirror it i also need two pieces for the back pocket and that's this big panel here the four pocket lining pieces finally some interfacing and starting off with the zipper piece again and i want two of them so i fold it over my fabric these are the two pieces for the welt pocket the three and five inch pieces i've doubled up my interfacing so i get two of each of these as well we're gonna need an additional two pieces of interfacing using this three inch pocket piece finally two pieces for the waistband and then using the thinner pattern piece i have doubled up the interfacing and finally that is all our interfacing pieces in an effort to reduce the amount of stray pieces we have let's attach all this interfacing onto the corresponding pieces look uh i know there's quite a bit of prep work here but let's just keep powering on like mom says do it before it becomes a chore with the first piece i'm going to just put it directly on top of the back of the slim fly piece with the larger fly piece i'm going to put it right on one side next up the back welt pockets first these small pieces now the bigger pieces for the welt pocket we're going to pop over to the sewing machine real quick just to sew the darts into the back panels at the top on both pieces and i'm going to measure down three inches okay i'm going to align that center this way and this way press that down with these waistband pieces i like to fold them in half give them a little pinch on the fold so i have a marker of the center find the center on the interfacing as well give that a little fold too i basically line up those two folds and i had half an inch of seam allowance at the top and 5 8 at the bottom starting in the middle so it stays centered all right that's all done let's move on to uh sewing machine let's put this all together [Music] this is the front leg panel by the fly and uh just going to go ahead and serge all the way along here on both panels the single flap is ultimately going to end up like this with the two wrong sides facing each other so i'm just going to put that on top draw in my arch at the bottom trim that off and now i can surge along this edge down to the bottom and then back up this side this double sized piece i'm going to fold in half and press that down serge this piece as well from here down the bottom a little tip this is the side that has the interfacing so i'm going to make sure that side is on top when i serge so that way the soft side gets pulled along by the feed dogs at the bottom and it moves through much more even i've aligned these two front pieces by the fly here right sides of the fabric facing each other and now i align my zipper with the edge and i want the very top end of the zipper to be about oh half an inch down from the top and then half an inch down from the little nib at the bottom i put a little marker for myself and then i'm going to sew around up to here this is the right leg so i lift that up i then take this piece make sure the two right sides are facing each other and then i align this with the edge and i want the bottom here to go about a half an inch below where our seam ends over here and now i simply run a stitch down and something to note i want the line of this seam here to match up right over here with the end of the seam so it's one continuous line down and around but looking close there's about oh an eighth of an inch of a gap there it's more visible on the other side i'm going to press that open now i flip it all the way over by leaving that little gap essentially what i've done is given the fabric enough leeway for everything to fold over and not create too much tension in this point all right let's run a top stitch right along this edge here zipper time it's zipper time zipper time it's time to put on the zipper this is the right pant leg i take my zipper and make sure it is facing downwards making sure to align it like i did before so it goes below here and about half an inch down from the top i take that double fly piece and that's the stitched edges there and there i want that directly on top pin that all together go down about halfway with the zipper open my needle over to the left and now run run a stitch along to attach these three layers together lift up the presser foot and then bring the zipper to the top press your foot down and continue along and then press that open so it sits as flat as possible now over to the right side and i top stitch right along that edge and i've gone all the way down to the very bottom beyond the bottom of this piece here now we want to connect this piece of the fly onto the other side of the zipper so we're going to flip this over this way i want to have this line really nice and flat i have a little bit of a lip oh say eighth of an inch or so i hold here flip this up making sure not to move anything and then still making sure everything's really nice lift that up as well grab the zipper underneath and then pin that on fold it back just to make sure it's good there's no bubbles or anything then i repeat that process further up again holding it in place where i want pulling the left leg over grabbing the fly flap and the zipper and then pin that on as well i've moved my needle back to the left side and now i slowly work my way up take that needle out don't want to sew on top of it and then let's keep going up i lift up and i bring the zipper all the way down back down and sew my way to the top once again i make sure everything's lying really nice and flat pulling the left leg over but this time i'm just grabbing the flap of the fly and the actual front panel here and i pin those together i repeat at the bottom make sure everything's lying nice and flat that should now be attached to the front and now stitch along the edge of the flat piece and as close to the edge as possible with the back flat piece lying flat when i go back to the right side of my pants i can do a little zigzag stitch right in the bottom corner of the curve here just to attach everything together okay that's two of the six steps complete or if we would do our elementary school homework one third of the way there [Music] at this point i like to pin all the leg panels together so that i can do a fit test so in my case i'm bringing everything in just a touch around the top and the reason for getting this perfect is because they're in seam pockets there's no room for error but this little bit of an extra step i think is worth it for those sweet sweet clean lines and finally just mark in a line so i remember where that is i'm going to finish off the inside edges of the flaps that go on the pocket lining and then sew them down onto the actual lining along those same two edges i do of course want to make sure they're reflecting each other this is the left pant leg take the one that matches up when both sides are facing forward i go ahead and i flip that over the other way matching up the edges i'm going to copy over my markings and then from the top measure out the pocket hole openings so that's going to be an inch and a half down down to eight and a half inches and then so from the top there down to here i flipped it over so it's easier to see that seam that we just did snip a line right to the edge and then repeat at the top again pull that lining around the other way flip out the two pieces on the edges here i'm going to press that down so it sits nice and flat i add about oh an ever so slight lip so that the lining doesn't show through on the other side i'm gonna top stitch it from the top here right down to where we made the bottom clip flip that lining around line it all up i'm going to run a stitch right here and then down just a touch to close up here and do the same thing along the bottom close up the hole at the bottom of the pocket lining finally finish the raw edge all the way along the outside of the leg which then also closes up the side of the pocket there we go an inseam pocket i'll attach the back panel after we've made the welt pockets but for now you know i think we deserve a little hand little pat on the back for ourselves we're 50 of the way there yay us [Music] this is the back panel for the left leg starting from the top here i'm going to measure down three inches okay and then i want the gap between these two dots to be six inches so a little cross in each area and of course make sure this is centered in the middle of the panel okay that's about center i take that five inch height piece i align that above i take the three inch piece with the interfacing pointing up as well i'm going to transfer over vertical lines and there to there i want the final height of my welt pocket to be three quarters of an inch so i'm going to measure down 3 8 from the center and then up 3 8 as well then i simply run these two horizontal seams snip along to one end until i'm about oh an inch away and i'm gonna cut right until the edge of the seam here downwards as well right to that seam that's what it looks like on the other side i repeat in the opposite direction flip both of these pieces around to the other side press the bottom crease flat here and then fold this over until it sits nice and flat bumped up against the edge of the top make sure the triangle is folded over and then the welt on top and then i'm going to pin this all into place repeat on the other side make sure the triangle is out put the welt over top hold it all and pin it so it is nicely in place and it should look something like this on the other side and make sure this is facing up and then i'm running this top stitch underneath the welt so that it holds it in place i'm going to finish this raw edge here just so it doesn't fray everything lying nice and flat in the back now i can run a top stitch from here up across the top down the other side and reconnect over here i do once again try to stay as close to the edge as possible i do like to put zigzag bars on both ends just to strengthen them it also just makes things look really tidy on the ends finally i can attach the lining so i flip up that big panel we've got the welt panel underneath and then i align my lining with the welt and then connect it along the bottom here remember you can never press enough run another top stitch to hold that in place i do like to do my buttonholes at this stage it makes it a lot easier than doing it at the end make sure this top flap is up because we don't want to sew that down i did make this back flap and lining intentionally large so i knew there'd be enough and i'm actually going to trim them down taking two inches off the lining and about an inch off this top back panel here i can take this lining with this top panel stitch that on and then finally closing up the sides making sure to catch that triangle the welt layer and finally the back panel that sorts out the welt pocket and then we're going to go ahead and just finish off the legs because we've got just a touch left on those front pockets so we can move on i'm going to go ahead and just finish all the raw edges now on all four pant legs except for top and bottom let's also sew this curve through the butt here i've got my two front panels sewn together and the same goes for the back i have right sides facing each other i'm going to align them along the outside edge and as i run this seam down here i want it to hit right here by the edge of the pocket going as close as possible without actually sewing on top of the pocket so what i'm going to do is feel for that edge with my finger and then simply put a pin in so i know where to sew along to and i'm doing the same thing by the bottom of the pocket again and then run a pin so i know where to sew and as i'm going along the pocket that too i want as close to the edge as possible without actually sewing in the lip i continue to feel as i'm going along just to make sure i'm in the right area just finish going all the way down the legs and then finally some zigzag stitches right on the ends of the pocket for strength while we're at it sew the inside of the leg for the six steps completo remember our earlier simplifying fractions exercise two-thirds let's take it to decimals point six six percent done 66.67 percent i liked math growing up and [Music] drawing i find running a stitch around the waistband the top here just makes things so much easier to work with i need to align my two waistband pieces right sides facing each other and i'm going to sew all the way along the top by sewing out from the middle i'm essentially reducing the chance of the two pieces shifting back and forth open that up so it lies flat and then press the seam open and then fold it all the way i just want to make sure i get a nice even waistband so i'm going around and measuring two inches from the center fold that in half and find my center give myself a little bit of a crease so i know where that is align that to the center back of my pants starting from that same place i just work my way around i also put markings on the pants themselves to have a line to follow to be consistent pressing this seam nice and flat is a bit of a pain but it's just going to make my life so much easier in the next few steps and i like to just pull at the top press a little on the outside doesn't harm either now it's time to deal with the edges of the waistband this is the left leg i've got my waistband lying completely flat and open i take my fly and i align it just underneath that waistband seam and then i pin it into place i fold over the next bit as well because the aim is to fit it all in between the top and the bottom of the waistband and then i pin that as well next i fold over the other side of the waistband and aligning and pinning them together after flipping it over i'm feeling for that 45 degree angle of the fly on the inside and i'm looking specifically for that point on the edge because i'm going to use that as my guide to draw a nice perpendicular line on the edge of the waistband now i'm going to sew starting at the top and then i'm going to go down the edge that i just drew and then finally back over the bottom seam about an inch or two in should have paid more attention to these lights here my batteries died on me hence this whole batch of narration here that's why uh also you don't hear the sewing anyways uh sewing along and i'm feeling for that edge because i want to get as close as possible without actually sewing over that uh little nib in the corner there and then finally i flip along the bottom and sew in that inch or two i snip off the extra fabric and i also cut off the corners and at the bottom i take a little extra out from the fly because i want as little extra fabric there as possible so i can prevent bunching and bubbles when i flip it the right way i then just take out all the various pens that i've put in and pull it in the right direction and definitely some fiddling required here to get it all nice and square and uh top it off with some pressing so it's as crisp as can be that is how i get a nice rectangular edge on my waistband and with the ends sorted out i now just have the insides to do and i fold over those edges and i'm going about oh a millimeter or two below the seam from the other side press that down and move along the unsewn side is on the inside but i like to run my stitch on the outside because i have the confidence of knowing it's far enough over that it's going to catch on the inside but then my top stitch is going to be nicely aligned on the outside here turn and along the top of the waistband as well and back to the center where i started buttonhole on the waistband with the belt loops i'm serging just the one edge [Applause] on the side that hasn't been stitched i'm going to fold it in about a third of the way press that down then fold over the side that has been stitched press that as well a single stitch to close it i'm going to fold over about a quarter of an inch on the end i like to attach it with a zigzag stitch and i go in reverse first so it's a little bit easier lift up the presser foot a bit of cardboard to even it all out and it should move forward nice and easy i tend to make my things a little too big so i can trim off my excess in this case i'm going to go down to three inches at the bottom here i find the trick is to just push up ever so slightly so there's a touch of slack to make room for the belt when it goes through and then repeat the same technique at the bottom put one right in the middle at the back then on each side in between the back pocket and the front pocket and then in the front halfway from the pocket to the fly all right hold on let me just focus my camera here for a second all right yo we're making progress going places let's get these puppies done one more step [Music] with the bottom hem i like to put on the pants and then pin it into place my goal here isn't to get it perfect but enough so that i know exactly what height i want it to be even everything out just a little bit to make sure it's all sitting nice and flat press that so there's a nice crease my final hem double check to make sure that's sitting relatively square i do like to measure the inside of the legs just to make sure they're even and measure one inch all the way around from this crease trim on that line next i'm going to serge the raw edges and making sure i get the seam allowance fabric nice and flat tuck the hem back in finally sew that down for buttons i like to take a seam ripper just poke a little hole through where the final button is supposed to end up and a little marking so i don't lose it i've gone three times in each direction now what i'm going to do is i'm going to go through for a fourth one but make sure the needle comes out in between the two layers wrap around a few times go up through one back down underneath and then just close it off by tying a knot second one is never a bad idea i'm repeating this procedure with the back button by the welt pocket snip all the loose threads using a knitting needle i tuck away the loose threads of the serging snip off the remaining bit all right that's pants take a moment to appreciate what we've done i mean i'm very happy with how mine turned out i hope yours are just what you wanted as well i'd love to see your creations if you followed along tag me in a post send me a link whatever these days it's easy to connect so reach out cornelius.oh boom that pants done [Music] you

Channel: Cornelius Quiring

Views: 50,653

Keywords: sewing, fashion, style, mens fashion, menswear, slacks, pamts, pants, how-to, sewing pants

Id: Y_c1xdDOSGA

Length: 35min 55sec (2155 seconds)

Published: Sun Aug 29 2021