How to Setup a DeWalt Table Saw

[Music] foreign [Music] welcome back to inspiring builds I'm Dan and today we have a new table saw in the shop so let's get it set up if you missed the assembly video I will link it in the corner and a perfect rule tools would come out of the box tuned up and ready to go but unfortunately nearly all tools require some tune-up and at minimum they need check to ensure they're set up properly a tune-up is key for this table saw or any tool for that matter to perform as best as possible Let's do an overview of the saw to get acclimated and then jump right into the setup ensure your saw is unplugged first for safety as your fingers aren't too helpful if they're not attached starting on the front of the saw there is a power switch a green button to turn the saw on and a red paddle to turn the saw off that can be pushed or pressed with your knee if your hands are full as well as a lock that flips down for a safety feature to prevent the saw from accidentally getting turned on to the right you have your blade height adjustment wheel clockwise raises the blade counterclockwise lowers it you have your blade angle gauge here with a pointer and a lock lever simply unlock the lever and change the angle to check the calibration lock it with moving the lever to the left that we will review shortly it has a knob for the rack and pinion fence system I just push it back and forth and use the knob for minor adjustments on the right side there is a fence lock lever towards you is the unlocked position to move the fence and back is to lock the fence in the blade guard is stored on the right side of the saw stored on the bracket as shown and the riding knife end is stored on the spring-loaded Fastener ensure it's vertical and then pull it out and turn it 90 degrees to lock it in place to unlock it pull it out and turn it back 90 degrees so it's vertical on the back side of the saw is the other side of the rack and pinion for the fence adjustment a two and a half inch metal solid dust Port that is built into the housing that encloses the blade you can use a two and a half inch adapter or shop vac to hook directly into it there is a housing cover for the blade that can be removed by these two Phillips screws and two push tabs this is nice for clean out checking the arbor and accessing the riding knife screws put the two tabs in the bottom fasten it back in place and tighten the Phillips screws the miter gauge is stored here and just slides into the slots up above there is a cable for the riding knife the saw includes a handy cord wrap located on the left side to store the power cord the two bleed wrenches are stored by the cord push in until the button contacts the hole and fastens into place to unlock push the button lift and pull out the wrenches up top is a lever that pulls out and snaps back for the riving knife release the saw comes on an excellent rolling stand that is stable it's a pretty heavy saw but the rolling stand makes it easy to work with first ensure the fence rail is locked then tilt up the stand until the saw is sitting on the kickstand unfold the handle side legs pushing in the levers and folding down until they lock into place unfold the wheel side legs by flipping the levers and folding up until they lock into place to move the saw Place one foot on the axle and one hand on the handle and tilt it towards you it can easily be moved as shown with a couple of fingers and doesn't take up much space at all to set it up again Place one foot on the axle and one hand on the handle and tilt it towards you position where you want it and unfold all four legs locked in the open position pull the stand toward you with one hand on the axle and the other on the handle and tilt over until all four feet are on the ground the fence has two positions there are levers to lock it into place the first position uses the yellow tape and can go right up to the blade and can rip up to 24 and a half inches the second position uses the white tape and will start at eight inches and will rip up to 32 and a half inches it's a pretty thin fence which makes it easy to clamp something to the top of it it has a secondary fence that flips up and flips around and has a couple different positions the first is the higher position and is great if you need to rip a thin piece of stock and use the fence to get underneath the safety guards the lower position can be used if you pull your fence out from the table and then will sit level with the table this is nice to support larger materials such as a full sheet of plywood there is also a push stick in a super handy location stored in the fence I prefer using a couple of push sticks on the back of the manual has a push stick pattern to make your own here is the blade and the riding knife right behind it to remove the riping knife pull out the release lever on the left hand side and the writing knife comes straight out to put it back in do the same thing by pulling the lever back out and release it to fasten back in pulling it to ensure it's locked into place the same lever is used for the blade guard that has a built-in riding knife along with the secondary dust collection note do not insert the blade guard assembly and The non-through Cutting riding knife into the clamp at the same time I'm a fan of the cable system as it works great ensure the throat plate is adjusted properly grab a straight edge I use a square to ensure the front of the plate is flush or slightly below the table top surface and the rear of the throat plate is flush or slightly above the table top this one is high on the front and needs adjusted it has four adjustment points with two in the front and two in the back that are Phillips head screws I'm going to adjust the two front screws to lower it and check again until the throat plate is adjusted properly the third plate is well built and secure compared to other saws with minimal movement it has a latch that locks into place and can easily be removed by lifting in the opening with your finger it has a nice metal housing that goes directly to the dust port and a 5 8 inch Arbor that can take a full dado stack it will require a date of throat plate if installing a dado stack that I will provide a link to in the description below if not installing a new blade check that the blade is installed correctly and the arbor nut is tight one upgrade I'm going to do is changing the blade with a Diablo one to change the blade raise the saw blade to its Max height by turning the blade height adjustment will clockwise use the two wrenches on the left both rinses are the same so don't worry which one to use put the open end of the wrench on the inside and the closed end of the wrench on the outside remove the arbor nut and flange by turning counterclockwise place the new blade on the spindle making sure the teeth of the blade Point down at the front of the table once the arbor nut is tight install and lock the throat plate to test that the blade is square raise the blade all the way up by rotating the blade height adjustment well clockwise until it stops you want to ensure it's square when the bevel Stop Cam on the back side of the panel is firmly positioned against the stop so when the stop hits the cam it will stop right at 90 degrees as well as when the pointer is on zero confirm with the square checking for any gaps of daylight if adjustments are needed unlock the bevel lock lever by pushing it up and to the right loosen the bevel stop screw place a square against the table top and blade and adjust the bevel angle until it's flat against the square and then tighten the bevel lock lever by pushing it down test again to ensure you have a true 90. then adjust the Stop Cam so it's firm against a stop and set the pointer pin to zero both using a four millimeter Allen key check that the blade is parallel to the miter slot I do this with an adjustable Square loosen it to put it in the miter track pick a lucky tooth on the blade push the square into the tooth and pull the blade back just enough where the tooth barely contacts the square listen to the noise and tighten the square down after the square is tightened down double check to ensure the noise stayed the same take the same tooth and rotate the blade to the back along with pushing the square to the back of the miter slot and listen for the same sound this sounds consistent and no adjustment is needed if it did need adjusted there are two five millimeter bolts that can be loosened on the rear pivot bracket Fasteners to adjust the blade parallel to the miter slot and then tighten back down check that the riding knife is straight with the blade lay a straight edge on the table against the two blade tips and the writing knife should not touch the straight edge with the blade cover removed this is the writing knife plate if an adjustment is needed simply loosen the larger screws with the four millimeter Allen wrench and adjust the three smaller adjustment screws with a 2.5 millimeter Allen wrench and then tighten the larger screws back down I find it easier to access the screws from the Bottom by removing the housing cover for the blade note the instruction manual shows one adjustment screw in the middle on the top and it's actually in the middle on the bottom I've always been a big fan of dewalt's fence check that the fence is square I'm going to check for square with the fence in the front of the table in a few spots along the track as well as check in both fence positions I'm also going to check that the fence is square with the miter slot move the fence until it reaches the miter slot and check to see if the front of the fence or back of the fence overlaps if any part of the fence overlaps the slot first the fence needs adjusted as you can see here with this fence the back of the fence is flush with the slot before the front of the fence therefore an adjustment is needed as an additional check I use a speed square place the speed square in the miter slot and move the fence over until it's tight against a square and lock the fence Slide the square across the table and check for any gaps also check that the square slides consistently across without any areas being tighter or looser as that would indicate an adjustment is needed there is a noticeable Gap in the front and the square has quite a bit of play to adjust the fence just use a four millimeter Allen wrench to loosen the locator pins on the fence rails on the front or back I only loosen the front or the back not both depending on which part of the fence is out of alignment in this case I loosen the front adjust the square and tighten it back down I check again for square and confirm the speed square slides through the track smoothly with the same effort whereas before it was tight in the back of the fence and too much play in the front next check that the fence is 90 degrees with the table this is square all the way through and only one small adjustment was needed check that the rip scale indicator is set up correctly that can easily be adjusted by these two screws and moving the guide unlock the rail lock lever set the blade at zero and move the fence in until it touches the blade lock the rail lock lever and ensure the rip scale indicator reads zero if not loosen the screws and adjust accordingly I'm going to do a test cut to confirm I'm going to cut this piece at two inches move the fence to two inches and lock it down raise the blade so it's about 1 8 inch higher than the top of the work piece put on your PPE before making your cut [Music] measure to ensure it's two inches this was right on the money don't forget to subtract two inches from the rip scale reading when using the narrowing ripping fence the miter gauge is poor quality along with the miter slot having a lot of slot which is arguably the biggest negative feedback to correct this use one layer of blue painters tape to wrap around the sides as you see now there is zero play [Music] to adjust the miter gauge take a piece of stock cut at 90 degrees and put it flush against the fence and the miter gauge if needed adjust the arrow with the Phillips screwdriver to 90 degrees I would recommend upgrading the miter gauge and you can see the difference as this one has zero play is very accurate and will save time I'll include the link to this nice Precision miter gauge upgrade and the description the miter slot is 7 16 inch deep three quarter inch wide and is a t miter slot that can also accept a u miter gauge one last item I recommend is a digital angle finder it's a must-have tool for a table saw to quickly and accurately adjust angles when cutting that I will also provide a link to this is a high quality saw that I would recommend it only needed Minor Adjustments it's a powerful 15 amp saw that can handle large or small projects and is easy to move with a quick setup and tear down I really appreciate you watching if you like this video I have another One queued up for you please subscribe to the channel if you haven't already like comment share and hit that notification Bell so you can get notified when I release new videos

Channel: Inspiring Builds

Views: 111,081

Keywords: how to setup a dewalt table saw, dewalt dwe7491rs, dewalt dwe74911, dewalt table saw setup instructions, dewalt dwe7491rs setup, dewalt table saw dwe7491rs setup, adjust throat plate, change table saw blade, align table saw blade, align blade to miter slot, align riving knife, square dewalt fence, square table saw fence, adjust rip scale indicator, upgrade miter gauge, digital angle finder, how to, Inspiring Builds

Id: eGELmT9k_mQ

Length: 15min 46sec (946 seconds)

Published: Sun Apr 30 2023