How to Set Your Sag on your Dirt Bike | Dirt Bike Set Up Tip

hey there everybody thanks for tuning in you're watching dirtbikes channel i'm your host kyle brothers and today we're gonna be setting sag on this dirt bike it's very important i don't want to show you how to do it stick around you know sag is something that is often overlooked but it's important to get the right amount of sag on the rear shock the suspension of your bike to make everything run properly so it stays balanced so sag is going to what we're gonna do is we're going to be measuring how much static sag we have which is when the bike is under its own weight and then we're gonna also measure what our riding sag is or race I guess when we're on the bike with our helmet our boots and all of our gear and any backpacks or water that you normally carry so what we'll do is we're gonna measure and see how far what the distance is between a point on our fender and the axle down on our tire we're gonna measure that that distance and then what we do is we take the difference between that and when the bike is sitting under its own weight and when it's sitting with our weight on it and that's our sag so a lot of people will will set sag anywhere from a hundred millimeters to maybe a hundred and fifteen millimeters depending on what the on what they want some people stand up to set the sag some people sit down to set the sag I'm gonna do both I know three ways to do this one is with a measuring tape and if you're gonna do it with a measuring tape which is totally fine you're gonna need probably two helpers one to one to help balance the bike and then one to want to take the measurement you can also get away with this if you put it up against the wall which I'll show you and then you don't need quite as many helpers another way that you can measure this is with a sag scale I've got this MSR sag scale here that that I really like but since I don't have any but this would also require me to have a helper since I don't have anyone to help me today I'm gonna use my slacker digital digital sag scale because I can do I can do my sag alone without any help with this guy so I'm gonna show you how to do that now okay so the first thing we need to do is establish a baseline of how what the distance is between the center of our axle up here to a point on our fender now on this a lot of people do do this as straight up and down what what slacker says is is the best way to do this is to go from your pivot point here on the swing arm and go from the axle here and then do it in an arc so you'll see I'm measuring this just by going here's my here's my pivot point on the swing arm here's my axle and I'm going to come up here in an arc and this in somewhere over here is where I want to take my measurement from they just say it makes it a little bit better to do this the measurement that way I don't know whether that's the case but I've been starting to do that a little bit more instead of going straight up and down but now we have our zero point here with with the with the slacker scale if we were doing this with a measuring tape we would take a measurement from here to here and we would note that measurement and that way we know when the bike is up on the stand that's our zero point okay and then we're gonna drop it down off the stand and see what our static sag is and then see what our race I guess in order to see what our race AG is though I'm gonna need to get dressed up in all of my riding gear so I'm gonna put my boots on my riding pants on chest protector a backpack my helmet everything I'm gonna be kitted out just like I do when I go on a ride so we know exactly how heavy I am and how much I'm gonna weigh to bike down so let me go do that okay so now I've got my I'm fully kitted out my gear I've also got the remote display here set up on this slacker scale we are on a zero we've got everything down to zero and I'm going to start this camera down here so that we can see I'm gonna take this off the stand and set it down hopefully I've got enough stand out just a little bit and now we can see what our static sag is right here hopefully I didn't move that out of the frame so our static sag on this bike right now and I'll push the suspension down and let it up our static snag is coming in right at about 40 millimetres so I'm gonna have to go check the manual to see what we're supposed to have that seems like a little bit much for this but what I'll do now hopefully have got both cameras running I'm going to get my helmet real quick see what my ray Saiga's so I'm just setting the bike right over by the wall and then that will give me the ability hopefully you can still hear me that will give me the ability to kind of balance myself off the wall with my hand right here and see what my side is now what I like to do is I like to give it a bounce again I'm fully dressed out and all my gear I like to give it a bounce let the suspension settle you know I'm up in my keep bumping I'm up in my Attack Position and I'm getting 106 millimeters of sag hopefully we can see that and then when I sit down and kind of my a natural riding position getting 112 so I'll bounce I'll stand up and I'll bounce a couple times and kind of in the Attack Position I'm getting 106 sit down I'm getting 110 now that's pretty much what I want I want to get this bike set up where I've got about a hundred and ten millimeters when I'm sitting and 105 when I'm standing so I may not have to do anything on this bike I may not have to adjust that really at all but you can see how with this sag scale I'm able to do this you know by myself 105 106 sit down I'm at 110 and you'll notice as I lean back the SAG goes more and more so your position on the bike really affects this look if I lean forward I'm at 105 if I lean back I'm at 114 so your position on the seat is very very critical in measuring your sag you want to get in a neutral position at neutral riding position and this is kind of what I'm in and I'm at 110 111 I stand up balance the suspense a little bit let it settle get into my attack position I'm at 105 106 and that's that's pretty much what I want so the good news is with the way that I've got this whole thing set up I'm not gonna have to change anything on this bike send this back on the stand like so there we go so again I don't think I have to change anything on this bike let me show you what your what you do when you do have to change something I'm going to spin the bike around so you can see that so as you guys see I got pretty lucky on that one and I didn't have to I don't have to change anything on this bike some of the bikes I've run with a little bit less sag and so I've had to adjust a little bit this one I wanted to run with a little bit more sag and same principles apply to this whether you're running a PDS style shock or a linkage style shock underneath I've got a linkage bike outside that I'm gonna do next after this the way that you do this on a KTM you've got you've got a collar here that is there's a locking collar here that you take and loosen with like a four millimeter allen key you get that so it's spinning nice and freely and then what you want to do is you're gonna twist this red knot here now these are plastic nuts here on the KTM so they make a tool that you can get in there and twist that with I've got them over here in the thing but a lot of times if the threads are clean you can just kind of turn the shock and turn this turn this nut I don't know I can get so it's a good view but you can see I can turn that so now that this thing is loose that locking nut is loose I can turn that so if I need to let's say I wanted to give myself only a hundred and a hundred millimeters of sag when I was standing and maybe 105 millimeters of sag when I was sitting what I would need to do is put more preload on this spring so I would I would tighten this thing down so that it compresses that spring more so I'm giving more preload on that spring and what that does is it will force the rear end up giving me less sag right so the SAG if you need if you want more sag then you need to make sure this spring has a less preload so you'd loosen that so you you turn it backwards you can kind of see how I can turn it and make it make this nut go up right so I want to turn that back to kind of the zero point that it was at because I didn't want to change this at all but if I need more sag I'm going to loosen the amount of preload a screwing the spring up the up the shock and if I need if I need less sag I'm gonna add more preload on to this under this spring right here so that's kind of how that works and then you just tighten this back up when you've got it so it take it'll take you a minute because you'll have to maybe give a turn or two on this and then set everything back up and and then check your measurement and see how much it changed and so it might take you ten minutes to do it depending on how much now if you're out of the weight range for your bike like these bikes come set up for people between the 150 to 180 range and since I'm 170 even with all my gear I'm 170 without any without any in my birthday suit and once I get all my gear on my helmet and all that other stuff I'm still within the spec of these of this stock spring but if you're heavier than that like if you're 190 or 200 plus you're gonna need to definitely go to a stiffer spring to be able to get the proper amount of sag set up the proper amount of preload and the proper amount of sag for your bike and conversely if you weigh 130 pounds or 140 pounds or a hundred and twenty pounds you're gonna need a lighter duty spring back here on the back in order to get in the range that you need to be at because if you let's say let's say that if you weigh 210 pounds you might be able to put enough preload on this on this spring to get your race sag you're riding sag okay but your static sag there's gonna be hardly anything because you'll put so much pressure on this bike that the bike won't sag down hardly at all under its own weight and you want to have it you want to be in the right window there that's why you need to make sure that you get the proper spring here for your weight I'm lucky I don't Gen I generally well I've never had to change the springs because I'm kind of in the weight range but if you're 190 plus you're probably going to be out of that weight range and if you're 150 and below you're gonna be out of that check with the manufacturer of your bike for the correct spring rate but that gives you the basic idea of how you do this if you like these videos please remember to share them with your friends subscribe to the channel follow us on Facebook and Instagram if you want to support us I have parts links down in the video description there's parts links with Rocky Mountain ATV motorsport and Amazon if you use any of those links even with all of your Amazon shopping it really helps me to put food on the table and helps me to support my family so I would appreciate it if you would use those links whenever ever possible another way you can sort support us is by going to patreon you can give a monthly tip there dirtbikes channel comm forward slash patreon I mean patron patreon.com forward slash dirtbike channel is what it is and every once in a while we also do dirtbike sweepstakes where we give bikes away we sell some gear and we give bikes away so stay tuned for that kind of stuff uhm I hope you guys learn something in these videos and until next time we will get you later

Channel: Dirt Bike Channel

Views: 165,104

Rating: 4.9207015 out of 5

Keywords: enduro, motocross, dirtbike, ktm 2016, ktm motorcycles, shootout, ktm range, erzberg, graham jarvis, johnny walker, best dirtbike, 125, 200, 250, 300, 350, 400, 450, 500, 525, exc, sx, how to, 2 stroke, 4 stroke, video, review, ktm, husqvarna, sag

Id: Olq2lLYg__4

Length: 11min 40sec (700 seconds)

Published: Fri Nov 02 2018