How To Scan 35mm and 120 Film - IN DEPTH - Epson v600 - SilverFast - Negative Lab Pro

hey team this video is a follow-up scanning video to my in-depth tutorial on developing film if you finished my film developing course you are in the right place as with that video this video will be a video that's an extended cut to talk about a lot of the topics of scanning and the whys of what i do so i have provided a table of contents and markers so you can skip around and find each section that you need to hear and go back to and and try to get dialed in on a certain section if you are just finding this video and you stumbled across it my name is will and i'm a film photographer on the central coast of california a lot of people have seen my film developing video and this is the follow-up video so if you're just joining me on the scanning video welcome and i think there's a ton of film videos on my channel that i think you would enjoy watching so we've got our negatives all nice and dry from our photo flow trick and now it's time to share those with the world no one uses dark rooms anymore to enlarge their photos they are using scanners and scanning methods now there are a few different scanners and scanning methods out there but in this video we're going to focus on my method in depth and in the future i do hope to show a few more of the other methods and i'm planning on shifting my scanning method in the future as well now of course like my other video i want to be very thorough here there are tons of videos out there that tell you all the basics and i want you to know all the information you're going to need to be scanning at home and i want it to be clear and easy to follow scanning your own film is a little tedious especially with the method i'm going to show you but if you follow the steps and gain a general understanding like the developing video you will be able to handle this on your own and get some great results so there are generally three ways film photographers are digitizing a home the first and most common method is using a scanner there's a ton of scanners out there on the market but the go-to and the one that i use that's budget friendly is the epson v600 scanner now you just can't use any scanner you're gonna need a scanner that shines light through the negative it's got to have a light on the top and on the bottom on both sides this video will talk specifically about the v600 but a lot of the apps and scanners are very similar and you will have a similar process the second method for digitizing is growing very quickly in popularity and film community and that is that dslr or mirrorless camera in taking a picture of a negative this is the dslr scanning method this method can be cheap or pricey depending on if you already have a nice dslr camera i i don't recommend this method for new shooters if you don't have a nice digital camera already getting all that stuff could be costly for you lastly there are the production scanners these are the guys that own film lab quality scanner at home that cost thousands of dollars i know only a few people that are doing this i'm looking at you linus and his camera this also includes those automatic scanning things you get on the market those are clunky really expensive sometimes and they do offer high quality scans but for the price it's just way too difficult to get into as a new shooter again i probably will cover those things in the future on this channel but i really want this video to be entry-level basics with one of the most affordable methods of digitizing on the market right now at the moment i'm currently using the v600 scanner i do own a digital camera but i have not transitioned to dslr scanning yet due to the cost the cost of the holders i also don't have a macro lens yet and i don't have a light there's a lot of little things that i need to get for that setup i just haven't dialed in yet and i've got my v600 working and dialed in out of the scanners the epson v600 is not the highest quality there are higher quality ones but they get up to like closer to a thousand i think the epson v600 is a great deal i actually got mine used for 95. and you can get one new for about 230 usd again it does the job and every beginner and intermediate should have it um i would give it like a 3.5 out of 5 stars it's just in that right pocket of price versus quality okay we have our film developed we have our scanner now we're going to need to grab some scotch tape an air blower some film storage sleeves that's going to store your film after a binder to hold that in and then we're ready to get scanning so now that we have the things that we need now we got to talk about the software in this video i'll be showing you how to use the included epson scan software silver fast which is a free download link with that you can get with your epson scanners and negative lab pro which is a 100 conversion software to use with lightroom you should get something like lightroom as well if you don't use it already if you don't want to use the whole adobe suite i think you can get lightroom for like ten dollars a month you can use your phone or another editing app but they won't work with negative lab pro if negative lab pro is a method of software you want to use keep watching this video to see which of the methods you like best and there are other software's out there these are just the ones i'm going to be talking about in this video again i'm going to be talking about a lot of different scanning methods in the future because i think there are a lot of different ways you can do this and a lot of different ways i want to try out and explore in my film journey and one more thing before i get started is a talk about dust now many people on youtube are going to get mad at me for not using like the white cotton gloves or whatever but i tried those when i started out yes they prevent fingerprints from getting on your film but they also introduce so much dust and fibers it's hard to get them off so i just grab my film by the edges and don't worry about it never had a problem just don't put your greasy fingers on the middle of the picture you'll be all right also don't lay your film on anything dirty with fibers i dropped my film on carpet once and i could not get the fibers off if that happens you can try to rinse it with photo flow and sometimes that works just try to have a dust free environment for scanning and get yourself an air blower this is super funny because i'm in like my garage and it's like the dustiest environment so sometimes dust is cool the epson v600 comes with two film holders both for 120 and for 35 millimeter film they are very flimsy but they hold pretty well when you collapse the top on top of them to load these holders the film must be face down you can read the text on the edge of the film to see which side is the front you just slide the film in the slot and close the cover try to make sure that your film is flat in there sometimes the 35 millimeter film will bow you can fix this by letting it sit for a day or two in a sleeve and a big pile of heavy books or something like that if the film bows and touches the glass it will cause newton rings i'll discuss that in another section in just a little bit if it does this just try to reset the film and wait for them to flatten with your books for 120 there should have been included a black little card and you slip that little card on the side of the film that is bowing and it helps flatten that i've found this to work really well now everybody loves film borders one of the big things that i was excited about when i started shooting film was film borders and it's kind of the only reason that i got a flatbed scanner was to get those film borders i mean we're shooting real film i want to see those yummy yummy borders you know so to do this we just need to slap that film right on the scanner bed face down now this can cause newton rings way easier than the bowing of the film but if you let it dry and flatten it usually doesn't happen and skip to the anti-newton ring section to learn more about that if you have those issues just find the center of your scanner and line it up with the top wipe your glass really well and tape down your film that will keep it flat when we scan we want to scan the whole image to get that juicy scan newton rings are a pain in the butt when scanning on a flatbed scanner they are when the film touches the glass and creates this halo of rainbow colors editing this out is hard and it is very frustrating this can happen for a few reasons one of the main reasons is the new film shooter rushes the drying time and tries to scan it you gotta at least wait a few hours for your film to completely dry now i don't use anti-newton ring glass but you can buy anti-newton ring glass and lay it on top of the film and that supposedly gets rid of it a lot of people do use that i think it's pretty expensive especially with a scanner that's already 200 adding another 100 to 200 on top of that is a lot some people take this even further while getting two anti-newton ring glasses and sandwiching it there's another method of adding liquid uh it's just a lot of extra work that i just don't think you need to dive that far into with the v600 but you can go that way if you'd like to first we're going to clean our scanner bed and clean the surface of any dust or anything that's on it smudges or anything like that and i've linked down below a little cleaning kit you can get for it has a big cloth in it a little spray bottle and that really helps get off all of the smudges that are on there so we're going to open it up take our cleaning cloth and wipe it down really good i'm going to get that dust off get those smudges off clean that top glass really lightly that's gonna get all the smudges off then we're gonna be using our air blower which should also be in the kit that's gonna be keeping the dust out from when we continue the process the first thing we're gonna scan is 35 millimeter so we're going to take our 35 millimeter with the words facing down we're gonna place it into the holder really nice like that put this top part back on just like that do not touch the film you can touch the film on the edges again i don't use gloves for this because it introduces way more dust and we're using section a and this little tab i like to hit it with air already i already see a little bit of dust a little bit of dust won't kill you but this little a tab lines up with a settle it down in there give it a couple more blows while you close it and then you're good to go okay let's dive into the computer and talk about the software we're gonna need you're going to need to go on the internet and download the drivers for your epson perfection v600 photo scanner i'll leave a link down below where to find this now when you come down to drivers for mac or windows you are going to be able to find it here you will need to download those drivers and it will come with epson scan and if you see right here it says download solar fast se with your serial number on the epson v600 you can actually get silver fast for free and i'd highly recommend that so that'll bring you over here to the silver fast website um silver fast sc8 and you'll click down to your scanner you'll enter your hardware serial number right here you'll check it and then you just download it right there it has a couple things that you can see how it runs um you're also going to need if you're going to go negative lab pro you can go this route and you're going to need to buy this this is 100 bucks and as we go throughout this tutorial you can decide if it's something that you're going to want if you like the flow of negative lab pro i definitely really like it a lot so if you really like that it's a hundred bucks usd um there's also film lab which is a newer one it's an annual subscription or you can go month by month 200 life um it's a lot more expensive than negative lab pro i haven't used it personally but a lot of people really like it and i think there's some other ones out there but these are the ones we're going to be working with today so once you have all those you're going to go ahead and delete epson scan because i can't stand epson scan 1 and i can't stand epson scan 2. we're not going to work with that since we have silver fast we're going to go silver fast you also might want to download lightroom if you're going to go the route of negative lab pro you're going to need lightroom because negative lab pro is a plug-in for lightroom and i'm going to talk a little bit about things that are basically the same in all editing programs except for negative lab pro being a plug-in for lightroom so we got to turn our scanner on first and then we're gonna open silver fast eight okay silver fast opens up it's showing the v600 plugged into the usb we're gonna go in it's gonna show the images from last time and there's a lot going on here we're gonna come up here to pre-scan and we're just going to let it do a pre-scan to show what's on the scanner this takes a little second to scan and it's going to give us a rough look at what's sitting there right now okay we've got our images here they're pre-scanned and we're just going to focus on this one and we're going to work just in silver fast first you can do everything you need to do in silver fast if you need to you don't have to go to lightroom at all you can actually do it all here but the workflow is really slow because the scanner is actually really slow and that's not silver fastball so we're going to take our first box and drag it to just inside of the image and we can adjust that in a little bit and we've got transparency up here and then this says positive that just means it's positive right now this is exactly what it is we're going to switch that to negative and it's going to specifically hit our negative now this is actually readjusting for wherever you put it so we need to put it specifically where we're trying to adjust right now that's why we're trying to be inside the box so we want it inside the box and then we're going to come up here and hit this button and 48 to 24 is pretty good we're not going to mess with these hdr rolls and the frame is fine okay we're going to scroll up here to the top of this we don't want to tiff we're looking at jpegs right now we're going to use one of these in a minute but jpeg right now we want to scan it 3200 is the best this thing can do you can do the 6400 scan but it's not that that much better okay and then you can name it and change the spot where it's going to scan to so right now we're going to do more obey we're going to put this just on our desktop for today okay so on the left side there's a million little tabs here i'm going to close them right now and you also have these buttons up here so you can open your histogram you can open your gradation this is all very technical for film for just photography stuff let's zoom in on this and let it scan it a little better bit for us again this is why the workflow is not the best it takes a long time to shift things around like this okay that actually doesn't look too bad and we're going to open up our histogram here and our histogram is kind of showing where our light is there's a lot of light so there's a lot of to the right is light to the left is dark so if i raise the darks uh this is kind of the end point of where the darks are going to be you can kind of darken your image that way bring in a little contrast and vice versa you can brighten your image coming in at the top and you can also move your mid tone around your midtone actually is a really good slider for you to dial stuff in i use that one a lot so i'm liking this sort of more moody one like that so this top one dinistometer we're not going to use that navigator we're not going to use the navigator picture settings is our first one here in this list i already dialed in the histogram that's usually the first thing i start touching and then i go into here you can also adjust the mid-tone there pull that down a little bit you can add a little bit more contrast remove a little bit more contrast and yeah so i like a little bit less contrast and that saturation looks a little crazy so i'm going to pull that down a little bit the negative fix you can mess with this one if you want it kind of tries to find uh the film stock you were using so i was using kodak i was using ultra max and it was 400. so it helps try to dial it in and it did add some pinks to the background that's pretty nice you can mess with the exposure a little bit right here yeah i liked bringing it down a little bit actually and then the tolerance of what these things are actually adjusting if you've seen my final image of this it was from negative lab pro i didn't use this program on this so then there's the histogram and the gradation is something that we would use in lightroom you can actually pull up the shadows and make them flatter if you want if you know a lot about this you can mess with that here and it works really well and again you can mess with your mid-tone here as well i would say this image looks pretty good something that i'm seeing is a lot of digital noise that is from this scanner is not the best but it's also not your full resolution yet so we're going to come up here and hit scan on this and it's going to take a long time okay that took a long time it should be on our desktop here it is and there's our image we could call it a day with our single image here but from far away you actually can't really see that noise it looks like a good image contrast is a little high i might have gone a little too far on it but i like it it actually looks pretty similar to my negative lab pro scan so here are those two scans side by side there's definitely a lot more contrast i would say in the morrow in the silverfast one saturation's a little bit too through the roof there uh the colors aren't too accurate i could have spent more time trying to dial that in but if you come over to the negative lab pro one i really like this image i think it's punchy but it's not like too much in your face you have some softness in the distance and i really like it a lot actually that's one of the reasons why i like negative lab pro okay that was scanning a single image in silver fast what if we wanted to scan the whole role in what they call a batch scan so what we can do here is head up to this frame tool and there's one called fine frames and then slide and then film strip 35 millimeter holder click that it's gonna find all the frames that are there and go ahead and drop like a basic change on all of them i don't have any in this side right now if i did it would find those two and what you can do is you can go in adjust each one of these zoom in on them do exactly what we just did and dial them in and then you're going to come up to image up here and batch scan and so when you go into the batch scan it will scan all of those you'll want to name them tomorrow bay and you'll start an index number and it'll index them all with numbers behind them so that's a great way to batch scan and not have to sit here and scan each one so that's that's the way to do it in silver fast i'm not going to dive into how to dial in a 120 photo i think that's basically just how to use silver fast i'll show my workflow for negative lab pro on all the other ones but i will show you how to get the film borders on silver fast as well okay so we just looked at silver fast does not look like my negative lab pro scan and it doesn't look exactly how i want it to so i can actually open up an editing program like lightroom this is going to be called color correction and it's totally okay to do okay i've opened up a new project here in lightroom i'm going to go to library and i'm going to import from our desktop that more obey image i'm going to bring it in here go to develop so we're going to try to dial this in a little bit more now if you're unfamiliar with editing programs definitely go look at a lightroom video or an editing program video i'm not going to dive too much into how to use lightroom i can do that if you guys are interested go down in the comments comment down there if you want me to do a lightroom tutorial video but that's a totally different subject but i'm just going to talk a little bit about what i'm doing here on the right side and how i'm dialing it in you can do this again in a lot of different programs i'm just using lightroom because that's what i like you can get lightroom from adobe's suite of stuff you can buy the whole suite it's like 60 bucks a month it's a lot if you're not creative but if you already have it school discounts are 50 off and you can also get just lightroom i think for ten dollars a month so we've got it here um we're gonna start at the top and dial our warmth in and bring that down a little bit so the temperature a little bit cooler um it seems a little pink so i'm gonna pull it to the green just a little bit there and then exposure is a little bright i'm gonna bring that down a little bit and the contrast is a lot so i kind of want to pull that back highlights are kind of a little popping too much pull that down shadows can come down a little bit too white yeah just everything's blown i'm gonna lift the blacks just a hair um i don't really mess with texture and clarity and decays on film photos kind of messes with the grain a little bit too much and you've also got vibrance and saturation really i think the saturation could come down a little bit and maybe a hair of vibrance so we've got that same curve it's called tone curve in lightroom so that's there if you know how to use it again to get that lifted black you can kind of draw yourself a little s curve here if you want and then put a little dot right there and then go whoop and literally lift that black you see what the blacks are doing it's a look some like old films do that on their own so editing you don't necessarily want to take that out and you don't necessarily need to add it in so i don't want that so so we're not going to mess with the tone curves you can dive into the color here i feel like this pink is popping a little bit too much so i can pull that down a hair but i'm kind of losing the green i don't even know if it sees green it doesn't even look green in this image so you can do that and there's tons of other things you can do in here too in the sharpening this is where we're talking about dialing your grain in the scanners and lab scans automatically sharpen and do things like this but we can actually pull that sharpening up a little bit and that will bring out some of that grain if we zoom in here i'm pinching with my fingers you can see that grain there and if i pull it back the grain kind of washes out pull it up there's grain but there's also some digital noise you know look at that there's digital noise that's not actually there off and on so i like to pull up a little bit sharpening it does help your image a little bit and again lab scanners do this already and what i'm going to do is i'm going to slide this color slider all the way over and it turns all that digital noise see the color and gone this is one of the this is a hack i don't hear people talking about too much you can just flip that up and now your grain is white rather than digital noise and it helps your image a lot got lens corrections if you feel like your lens is bowing in and out should be used very slightly i've got a little bit of vignetting so i can actually kind of pull this vignette up a little bit there and it fixed the corners there too so there's my image that looks a lot better to export this all i'm going to do is go file export with that image selected i'm going to throw it on my desktop as well it's a desktop so that's the folder i'm putting it into i'm going to name it right here moro bay compared i've got quality at full for jpeg and resolutions 300 if you go any higher than this it's not really that worth it that much uh and that's pretty much it for all these settings you don't really want to mess with anything else so export that and there it is it's on the desktop so this is our first image that we did with just silver fast and here is a little bit more corrected lightroom on top of that and edit on top of an edit now this one looks super vibrant this one looks a little bit more muted but this one's a lot more accurate to what i saw and then we can compare that side by side with our future negative lab pro image i can't guarantee that i'm gonna nail this same scan for negative lab pro but yeah so here's three completely different images that you can get and ultimately they're all different and they all they all have a vibe to them i would say the most accurate one is this negative lab pro image that i got and i'm going to show you how to use negative lab pro next so we're going to leave our lightroom open we're going to come back to silver fast okay this is going to be our workflow for negative lab pro we've got our images here and we're just going to batch scan them all and what you need to do is select each one and change some settings but instead of that i'm going to come up i'm going to hit frame up here and delete all and we're going to start on a new one okay so now i'm gonna just come in select one frame and before i do the automatic finding of all the frames i'm gonna come up here and change negative to positive and we're gonna go back to looking at it as a negative now i'm not going to do anything to this image i'm just going to crop it i'm going to crop it a little bit overcropped so i can get the edge of it and i'll show you why we're doing that in a little bit we're going to do 42-bit hdr raw and we're doing raw so that it's a lot higher information that's being captured there and it's not putting any of its own settings onto it we don't need to name it because we're going to batch scan this so we're going to raise our resolution to 3200 and we're going to change it to dng i like dng a little bit better than tiff if you read the negative lab pro page i think it recommends tiff you can dive into their descriptions there i'm not doing a negative lab tutorial right now i just want you to see how to do this in negative lab pro um definitely dive onto their website check out more details on that i will do a negative lab pro video at some point i just wanted you guys to see my scanning workflow we've got dng we've got our quality all the way up to 3200 and then we've got our image we're going to come back up to frame and we're going to do that film strip 35 millimeter holder it's gonna find our frames there's our six frames and it cropped them a little bit so again i want to over scan them just a little bit so that i can get the edge and that's gonna help us with our white balance when we're in there okay that looks good okay now we're going to batch scan and we're going to come up and put it on our desktop so moro bay bay raw scans index starting at 1 and then i'm gonna hit scan that's going to take a little bit okay our images are scanned we're going to open lightroom back up and we're going to go to import we're going to find where we saved it more obey raw on my desktop we've got to open that up even more more obey raw scan there it is it looks really weird as a dng we're going to import it at the bottom right here it will come in as our negative move it over to develop and there it is i can click this button and show all photographs that we're working on we've got this one and we've got this one all right so here it is i didn't over scan it that much but it looks like there is a little bit right there again buy negrolab pro there's a free trial i think you get seven days or 12 days oh you get 12 conversions so generally an unlimited amount of time uh if if you do some copy and pasting like you can kind of extend that a little bit definitely try it out first uh if you like it you like it i love it a lot they're always updating lego lab pro there's a facebook group you can ask any questions in there they're so helpful and it's a lifetime membership so when you buy it there's a very easy way to install it on your computer it's a little harder for windows i do have it on my windows as well definitely read their download guide and go through what's going on again this isn't going to be a tutorial for them today yeah once you get that installed either talking to them or looking at their guide we're going to come back over so before you enter negative lab pro you need to grab the white balance selector you're going to grab it and you're going to grab your over scanned edge i didn't do a very good job over skinning it but there's a very little bit up there that i can grab that's going to get your white balance good to go once you've nailed your white balance you're going to want to crop your image in and get rid of the border because it does throw it off a little bit you need to crop it in just when you press ctrl n it's going to open this little negative lab pro box you can move it around if you want to so we're using a dng that's already good i like to use the nuritsu one you can mess with the frontier setting these are like um examples of the emulation of what that scanner could do and then pre-saturation and leave it at default you can go high i've done high before you can go low if you wanted to be a little more flat and border buffer we're gonna leave it at five so we're gonna hit that convert negative again it's gonna put my presets on there or my last used thing it's not gonna look how we want it to we're gonna hit this reset button okay so there's my image with just a flat basic scan from negative pro we're gonna start at the top here so i like to use the cinematic flat it's a great starting point some people like the linear flat a little bit different but i'm usually going with a cinematic flat but there's tons of these other settings to kind of get you going here they're all very different but that's awesome different ways to get down and edit your photo here the linear flat actually looks pretty good on this one too so i go between linear flat and cinematic flat so let's do the cinematic flat okay there that's that one now we want to get our white balance going here we're going to come down to white balance right here this is kodak so we're we're going to go ahead and tell it that it's kodak it's going to adjust a few things it looks okay but i'm going to bump up the warmth just a little bit here and mess with that a little bit the tent sunsetty hues this was that sunset now we're dialing in up here just like we edited before we're gonna edit a little bit here we're gonna come in a little bit of brightness it was outside a little bit of contrast removal i think actually bring up the light a little bit maybe bring down the darks and then you can just throw these sliders around this is all up to you how you feel the image should look i'm gonna bring those blacks down a little bit i like that punching a little bit and you can mess with the white clipping and if you want to now you can dive in even further here the lutz which is going to be those scanner changing features i'm gonna go with actually that natural looked pretty good i like the natural and then you can also dive in even further here with the mids add a little bit of something you can just mess around with these this is your rgb and your cyan magenta and yellow and you can mess with that in the mids and the highs and in the shadows i'm going to put a little bit of pink in the highs because that sunset vibe oh there we go yeah see and then go a little bit red because that sunset was happening right there yeah that looks really good you can come in add blue to the shadows if you want that brings out that green a little bit um i guess that's cyan actually technically and then add a little green to the darkness down there yeah that's starting to look really good and you can have it pre-sharpened a little bit too that's it so now this converts it boom converted we can zoom in and it will render the image there it is so we also have that digital noise like i talked about earlier we're going to scroll down all the way to the detail section and the sharpening's on there but the color isn't so i'm gonna slide that color that's my little trick and there it is if you don't like this you can dial in a little bit further but if you move these sliders this is actually based on the negative you can come and see that look at these crazy curves and that's from negative lab pro actually putting this on here this is actually a negative and negative lab pro has done crazy things with this to make it look like this now you can mess with these just a little bit but they're not going to function the way that they normally do they're actually inversed and they're a little weird too so saturation if i bump it up it gets like weirdly red and it's like not really removing or adding saturation it's just very bizarre i've dialed these in a little bit before but you gotta get to know a little bit backwards and really you can just open up that control in and you can open that back up and adjust it there if you want to i think this looks pretty good it does not look like my other one let's export it and then put that one compared alright here is our our new one uh which i think would be the most color accurate out of everyone i've seen so far so here is our three here so this is silver fast and your image might not look like that i'm just saying that's what i got with a little bit of adjusting and then here's silver fast adjusted by lightroom and then here is negativelab pro in lightroom this literally is the most accurate one i can see these colors look really accurate these were green and that fade there was a sunset and you can kind of see this is a benefit of the negative that on this one on the right we were using a raw and these were jpegs that we were editing so you can see that there's digital noise and this kind of handled that digital noise a little bit better so this looks really good now i'm going to close out those two this is our negative lab pro so on the left is my edit this image the first time and on the right is negative lab pro these are both negative lab pro now why are these different now that comes down to the scan that comes down to a lot of different things these are scanned at different times you can see there's dust in different different places edited in a different time too i i'm in a different mood than i was at that time i personally think that the one on the right is more accurate and i'm making this tutorial so i'm trying to make something the most accurate i can but the one on the left is what i tend to edit for myself for my instagram that gets us into a conversation i'm gonna have a little later about what is editing what is color correcting and what is actually retouching because i left the grain in here i could have retouched these images and removed some of that green as well so that's how i scan 35 millimeter using the actual film holders now i'm not going to show you much more on the computer but i am going to show you how to load up 35 millimeter with the film border showing and how to put 120 on here and 120 with the film borders as well so let's do that right now so what we're going to do with 35 millimeter is we're gonna ditch our actual film holder we don't need that anymore i'm gonna take it out so if you want your film borders to show that's one of the benefits of a flatbed scanner you can actually get your full film borders which don't show up if you're using a few of these other methods so we're going to take our negative and we're not going to be touching the actual negative we're going to be touching the edges of it here and we're going to lay it down with the just like we did but we're going to slap it down right in the middle there now it's gonna curl it's gonna bow a little bit and without smudging the glass we need to center the negative kind of in the middle of thing you can fit two on here it's a little bit harder to do you need to really center it so that you can line it up with the glass here we're gonna take some scotch tape put a little edge to it and we're just gonna grab these edges here and i'm literally just gonna grab the edges i only want a little bit on there i'm just holding this thing down this can introduce newton rings if you haven't let it dry enough or if it's just particularly bendy for now this works really well so we're going to close it we're going to hit a little bit of air and there we go let's pull it into silver fast so we're here with silverfast we're gonna pre-scan okay now in silver fast we can see our images the same thing that we did before we're gonna take our block we're gonna put it inside of the image and then we're going to change positive to negative and that's how we're going to edit our photo now the trick here to get that film border is once you've dialed in the colors you know you've done the mid-tone you've done all the things that you need to do you've changed all the things that you want to do with this you have to come in to negative fix once you've turned off auto and ccr then you can expand this frame to cover your whole image that you want and we're gonna hit scan just like we would okay that took forever now i didn't edit this very well i just wanted to get the film borders in there so there they are and you can crop this image down a little bit more if you want i left it pretty big but yeah you can crop this down more in an editing app or on instagram or whatever that's how you get film borders with just silver fast if you want the film borders using negative lab pro we have to scan it as a positive you're going to over scan it significantly like this we still want that 40 bit hdr raw we're going to do a dng find a place to put it scan it as a negative all right it's finished let's open lightroom library import and we should be in the same place there it is our weird image all right i'm coming down here i'm selecting all photographs so i can see everything we've been working on and i'm going to go over to develop okay and here is one of the problems with scanning on a flatbed scanner you can see it even before we convert this so it is a newton ring that is what that is right there that's the problem with laying it down flat on your flatbed scanner that can happen what i would do is reposition it to try to make sure it works right but um for now we're just gonna scan it right now um but a cool trick is we already have negative lab pro that we did this before so i'm actually gonna just copy these settings and i can drop it on so that's one way we can convert this and then there's our newton ring which i can get rid of with a little bit of editing tricks so there is that but i also want to show you how to do it without a little bit of help so to get it similar to silver fast again we're going to grab our pipette we're going to grab onto the film on the edge here not on there but there that shows our white balance now we've got to use this crop button up here because all of that border will throw it off and we're going to need to crop it in we need to come up here change our aspect to a custom and dial this in oh it didn't do it we have to crop it after we hit the white balance and then we're going to hit our control in convert the negative it's gonna have the preset from last time which is on the previous image yeah that doesn't look too good we'll dial this in cinematic flat will come up tell it that it's kodak bump that up bump that up a little bit and there's the image i'm going to hit apply i've got my image now i'm going to uncrop it and go back to as shot and there it is that's how you do it again i can come up with this little spot removal tool crank the feathering on it sometimes you can remove a newton ring this way now again the purists will hate me for saying that but you know you gotta do what you gotta do sometimes you can see this from far away so i'm gonna leave it at that i'm gonna crop it in a little bit to get the black out and you can use this angle finder to adjust that a little bit and then boom there it is so there's a quick one on silver fast there is a quick one from lightroom i didn't edit these very well but i'm just trying to show you what you can do with the borders so that's how you do the borders so for 120 we're going to take our negative and i'm going to use a very old negative and it's kind of dusty it's one of my first shots i took on a rz67 and we're going to take our film holder we're going to lay it down again same thing our words are gonna face down we're gonna slide it into the end here drop that down now it comes with this nifty card here in this slot and that helps keep the bow and the bend down so if i just close this right now it would still be bending in the middle there so i can take my card and i can put it right on the edge of it and when i close it it will keep that bend down now again there's a lot of dust on this i can use some photo flow clean that off and let it dry but for now we're just gonna roll with it so i'm gonna slap that on to my flatbed it goes on the little b section i'm gonna hit it with a duster close it and that's all you have to do for loading the 120 on there and it's the same process we're going to pre-scan so we've pre-scanned we're going to do the same thing we're going to drag a box we're going to put it around it you can edit this in silver fast you can edit this in lightroom uh with negative lab pro and again you want to over scan it if you're doing it in negro lab pro we've talked about how to do that it is all the same so it since it's all the same i'm just going gonna let you guys go ahead and see that yourself now if you want those yummy yummy film borders on 120 you of course want to take it out only grab it by the edges put your things back make sure you put things back and you're gonna do the exact same thing you did with the 35 millimeter film make sure things are dusted off this one's a little bit harder to line up perfectly but you can do it you want to use the tape on just the very edge because it kind of messes up the scan it like freaks out if it's not all the way on the edge boom there it is again this one's super dusty i could clean it off with something else but i'm not going to so boom line it up pre-scan it okay here is our image looks great i'm going to over scan it just like i did with everything else because i'm going to bring in a negative lab pro you can see how even with a slight shift you can possibly not line it up right this takes a little bit of time to learn exactly where it is and notice you can't put too much on there it can only really fit a few of these images some of the other scanners have a larger shining bed and this one just doesn't all right again same thing as it is scanned we're going to pull it in import our bay raw scans there it is that big jumbled mess move it over to develop boom there it is all right and then we'll go into that negative lab workflow we're going to grab the pipette i'm going to hit that white balance on the outside we've got to crop it in so that the borders are gone when it's converting and we can pull them back out when we're ready to go so ctrl n convert that negative and it's my wife and that looks very good already out the box i'm gonna just leave that for now um we won't get too technical with this all right and once it's converted we go back to the crop and we basically just uncrop it i'll crop it to where the you want to see those borders boom and that's how we get foam borders there we go that's an awesome image so that's how you're going to scan 35 millimeter and 120 on the scanner to get the film borders or to just use the film guides as a way to make it a lot faster the film guides make it so much faster for putting it down and getting through stuff and like we said with the 35 they can find the film borders already so those actually are pretty helpful when you don't really care about the thumb borders but those film boarders are cool that's why we're doing the flatbed scanning we really like that so i've skipped around in this entire video on this topic of do i edit my film photos and the truth is you just saw as we went through all this the answer is yes i think that it's super important to understand that all these scanners are different that all of technology is different screens are different so many things are different that are going to affect the image you can rescan the image several times and it might be different every time i am pulling images that i shot a long time ago and i bring them in and they just look different that's not really a component of the scanner or anything even a dark room would be slightly different even a professional film lab could be slightly different it's all going to be different what we do is we need to edit and add a little bit of color correction to make our images look good i don't think there's any faux pas in that but i think a lot of people do comment and say do you edit your images the answer is technically yes but at the same time everybody kind of does slash intentionally or unintentionally even if you send your film off to a lab and never do anything to it when it comes back to you that lab did some editing to it i don't want you guys to get too caught in the weeds with that i get caught in the weeds with that too or i did when i started so don't worry too much about that what i really want you to think about is how to make great images and hopefully i was able to help you today with that guys this video has been a long time coming if you've been following my journey from making the developing video we bought a house we had a kid and life has just been super crazy that developing videos somehow blew up and i'm just so grateful to every one of you guys that have been a part of this journey even before that developing video and then now since that developing video and i've been asking about this video so i really hope that you were able to learn something from my scanning techniques right now there are so many scanning techniques that i want to dive into in the future one of the reasons why i wasn't able to get to this was i am eventually going to be moving away from the v600 i think it's affordable and great for beginners i also think it's great for intermediate as a flatbed that's pretty good but ultimately for speed and for quality you can get a better scan with a nice digital camera and digital scanning and the problem that with that is and like i've covered before is that that's pretty expensive and i think the v600 is a great scanner for beginners to dive into so i am all about saving you guys money and getting more people into film photography i think it's a great thing to do and i think you can do it cheaply again i said in my developing video that i got all my stuff and i'm able to develop film now for about a dollar per roll if you buy this scanner and you follow my developing video you can develop your roles for about a dollar per roll which is so much cheaper than getting them developed and scanned at a lab your results and your time will have to go into it but i think ultimately there's a lot of gratification about that that hands-on touch it's awesome and you could see in this video where we dove into messing with our images and making them look amazing i want to hear all about your developing and scanning adventures over the past few months i know i've been away but i'm back now i'm putting out videos every week please leave a comment down below if you've gotten into developing and scanning recently i'd love to talk to you all about that you can always reach out to me on instagram and even down in the comments i will answer any of your questions that you guys have about this topic guys i really appreciate all you guys being here with me we are still giving away the canon ae1 um we're getting very close when i'm recording this there's about 50 slots left maybe by the time this video is out there might not be any slots left but i will be giving this away i'm gonna announce the winner on instagram and try to reach out to you on youtube thanks to you guys subscribing to the channel and being a part of this team i just really appreciate you guys if you haven't subscribed or done any of that yet please subscribe like this video youtube loves to know all about people's enjoyment and engagement just thank you so much and i'll see you in the next film video [Music] peace [Music] you

Channel: 1willcobb

Views: 22,284

Rating: 4.8819361 out of 5

Keywords: film photography, negative lab pro, scanning film, howtoscanfilm, film, film photography for beginners, film photography tips, silverfast 8, silverfast 8 tutorial, tutorial, 120 film, 35mm film, scan film at home, 35mm film scan, film scanner, 1willcobb, vuhlandes, willem verbeeck, linus and his camera, how to digitize film negatives, filmnegative, digitize film, digitize, dslr scanning, negative supply, epson, epson v600, v550, v500, v850

Id: 466N7sK8Syw

Length: 52min 18sec (3138 seconds)

Published: Thu May 06 2021