Hey friends, it's Len here at 1A Auto. Today, we're going to be working on our 1996
Dodge Ram 1500. This is the four wheel drive version and we're
going to be replacing the upper and lower front ball joints. It's going to be super easy. I can do it, and you can do it, too. As always, if you need any parts, you can
check us out at 1AAuto.com. Thanks. So, friends, something to remember. Here at 1A Auto, we do a lot of videos on
a lot of different cars with a ton of 1A Auto parts. We have so many parts for almost every vehicle,
you wouldn't even believe it. With these videos, what you might notice is
in between doing the job that you might be happening to watch right now, you might see
all of a sudden this new part just gets somehow installed in there. Well, that's because we cut away, we do another
job, we cut back in, and basically when we're showing you the steps in your video that you're
watching, we're just showing you the steps on how to do your particular part. Okay? There's going to be a lot of other things
that are going on and if you happen to see something that maybe strikes your interest,
it's brand new brakes, or brand new ball joints, or brand new tire rods, or whatever the case
may be, you happen to see it in the video that you're watching, maybe you want to check
that out in our playlist. Just click right on it, 1A Auto. Boom. There you go. With that said, let's get to work. Okay, so now we've got it up in the air. If you're going to be using an air gun obviously
you didn't have to probably break all the lug nuts free. I'm going to remove all five of these lug
nuts. All right. Let me get this out of here. Okay, so what we're going to do first, now
that we've got the wheel off, is we're just going to push back this caliper piston. Just a little bit, just so when we try to
take off this caliper, it'll come off nice and easy. Simple way to do that is you can take your
small pry bar, just come right in between here. Just give this a little push, just like that. That gave us plenty of room. Perfect. So next, we're going to take out the caliper
sliders. To do that, you're going to use a 10mm Allen
head. If they're rusted, just put it in there. Give it a few taps. Hopefully, we'll be able to get this out. Oh, yeah. Got it. Something this old, this thing's a '96. So if this has never been replaced, I'm sure
it's been out a couple times at this point and they just get worn, stripped sometimes. I'm just going to get it completely out of
here to show you what it looks like. So there it is. This is the slider and this is the bolt that
goes through it. See if I can get this. There we are. There's the threaded end, and that goes down
and screws into the bracket. Take this off here. There we are, that's the second one. Set that aside. I'm going to get this caliper off of here
now. Sometimes you might need a pry bar. We'll see. Give it a little wiggle. All right, came off easy peasy. So here's your caliper. All right, so now we'll grab the rotor. Take that right off of here. Okay. So now we need to get this axle nut off. To do that, you need to take out this cotter
pin. That just locks this nut from spinning. If you have access to new cotter pins, you
can go ahead and cut this one right off. If you don't and you want to reuse it, just
do it carefully and try not to bend it around too much. I do have access to new ones, so I'll be replacing
it, but that's pretty much what it's going to look like. Let's set this aside and we're going to take
off this nut. So let's get this bearing sprayed down again. Right up in here, along the outer portion
right there, right there. Awesome. We're going to grab our inch-and-three-quarter
and we're going to remove this axle nut. Okay, so we have our inch-and-three-quarters,
and go right on here and remove it. If you're using an air gun, make sure you're
wearing hand protection and eye protection. If you're going to be using a ratchet, you
need to get this down on the ground. If you're going to take a bar or whatever
you've got and try to make sure that this can't spin while you try to remove the axle
nut. I'll hold the axle studs and here we go. Awesome. Get our washer off of here. Now we need to make sure the axle moves inside
the bearing. Just give it a push. This one actually moves fairly easily. Surprise, surprise. If it didn't, you would take a center punch,
go right in the center, give it a couple loving bonks with your hammer. You never want to hit directly on the axle. The reason for that is if you peen over any
of these threads, it's going to be real hard to go ahead and reinstall the nut. So now what we're going to do, we're going
to take off this cotter pin and this nut. We're going to give the knuckle a couple loving
bonks right along here. That's going to let this drop down. You're going to want to be careful, because
there really isn't going to be anything holding it up, okay? So I'll show you what we'll do to help prevent
any risks to safety or injuries or anything like that. The reason why we're doing that though, to
continue the explanation. That way there, we'll be able to turn the
knuckle side to side freely, and we can get to the bolts there from the backside there. If we can turn them freely, then we'll have
a much better chance of getting them out. If you have new cotter pins, you don't have
to worry about ruining it. If you're going to be reusing it then obviously
try to save it. Watch your eyes, this is going to come flying. Take that out of there. 21. Okay. You get it off, it's just a plain old castle
nut. You'll notice there's a slot inside the tire
rod, or a hole in the tire rod. That's going to line up with one of the slots
on the castle nut when we're done. I'm going to take this castle nut. I'm going to put it on just a couple threads. Now when I give this a bonk and it wants to
drop down, it's not going to go very far. It's not going to be able to hurt me, which
is very important to me. I don't want to be hurt. All right. It's time to give this a couple bonks. We want to be careful not to hit the boot
or the tire rod. We also want to be careful not to hit up here
and bend over the stud for our tire rod. Okay? So just try to hit directly on the knuckle,
right where my finger is. Ready? Bonk. Just kidding. Here we go. Grab. You can use whatever you've got laying around
to hold this up. You can use a strap of some sort or a bungee
cord or whatever you want. I'm just going to use this because I have
it right here. That holds it on there nice. If you're worried about losing your nut, put
it right on there. Now look what we can do. We've got all the room in the world to get
this done. So I'm going to use a 12-point 9/16 socket. Go right on here. I've got my ratchet. You can also use an air gun if you want. You do your boo boo. I'll show you what this looks like. That's our bolt. If yours is rotted along the threaded area
or damaged in any way, it's probably a great idea to go ahead and replace this. If you're going to replace one, just do them
all. There's three of them on each wheel bearing. If you're doing both wheel bearings, you need
six. If you're doing one wheel bearing, you need
three. This looks as though it's reusable. I would just clean it up. And personally, I would use a little bit of
thread locker. But we'll say that that's your prerogative,
you can do what you want. Set that aside and I'm going to do the same
to the other two. There we are. Oh, this one's a little nastier. I'd say we're going to clean this up, make
sure the threads are good, before we continue too much further. All right, so we got that bolt cleaned up. As you can tell, it looks really good. I know what you're thinking, That's a new
bolt, Len. No, it's not. I'm just that good at cleaning things up. So I'm oing to use one of these bolts and
I'm just going to start it in there. Give it like a few good threads, maybe five
or six turns around here but still leave a gap. Okay, you want to make sure you have a good
amount of threads in there because we're going to use something like this now. You can get yourself an air chisel right at
1AAuto.com. Get yourself an adaptor that holds your socket. Eye protection. Here we go. So that's working really great. We've got a nice gap going on here. Perfect. I'm going to give this a little spin and do
the same over here. I'm going to grab one of my bolts and I'm
going to try pushing it through from this side. That's working. Here we are. So we just need to get this to come out. Looks as though we're starting to get a pretty
good gap up here. So I'm going to try to wedge something in
there, maybe one of my hammerable pry bars, see if I can wedge it in and get this out,
and then we can continue. Just going to put a little bit of penetration
here, let it do its job while we do ours. We're going to take out our bolts that we
just installed to help drive this through, and then we should be able to get the rest
of this out just using some pry bars. Get that out of there. Come over to the side that looks like it's
coming out the least. It feels like it's getting pretty close. We'll continue doing what we're doing. The backing plate's not in the best condition. Here comes the bearing. There's our left front bearing. Easy peasy. So now we have a nice, clear view of the axle. We're just going to clean out this area a
little bit along here. Looks good enough for now. Grab our axle. Should be able to slide it right out. There we go. So now it's time to get the knuckle off of
here. Okay? This whole unit right here where your bearing
bolts onto is called your knuckle. We need to get this cotter pin off of here. That holds this castle nut tight, and under
here you've just got a plain old nut. Nothing too special about that one. We're going to use some cutters. Pretty good odds, by the look of this cotter
pin, it's not going to want to come out. So more than likely what we're going to have
to do is just cut it and what we'll do is we'll just hammer on our socket, and that
should be good enough to get that off of there. So I'll grab a socket and we can continue. So I'm going to use my 22mm socket and I'm
going to remove this nut. I have a swivel socket, an extension, and
I'm using my half-inch air gun. This is a pretty dangerous setup because once
the nut comes loose, anything can happen. Parts or tools can go flying, so make sure
you're wearing your safety glasses. See, there's our nut in there. So I grabbed our castle nut. We're just going to start this on just a couple
threads on that upper ball joint. Okay? That's just so in case the knuckle decides
it wants to come down, that nut's going to say, Hold up. Wait a minute. Now we're going to come down here. I'm going to use an inch and an eighth socket
right on here. Fits on perfect. Safety glasses. Here we go. Awesome. Our nut's still in there. Set this aside and we can continue. So here we go. A little bit of penetrant up in here. Hopefully it'll work its way up in there. Cool. I'm going to use my little hammer and I'm
going to give this a couple bonks right on the knuckle, okay? You don't need to hit up on here, the ear
of the differential itself. Just right on the knuckle. That's going to help cause vibration and it's
going to break this free. We'll probably try giving it a couple whacks
down here as well, just to see if it comes free down there. So the good news is we don't have to bonk
down here. And we put this nut here, which saved us from
having this fall down and potentially hurting somebody and ourselves. Take our nut off of here. Here's our left front knuckle. Just something I want to show you with the
upper ball joint. As you can tell, this ball joint is absolutely
wasted. That's a lot of movement in there. So it's a darn good thing that 1A Auto supplied
us with a brand new ball joint. So what I'm going to do now is I'm going to
use this tool that's available at 1AAuto.com. It's got a little cutting wheel on here. We've got our hand protection, our eye protection
of course. We're going to cut this stud. Once we cut the stud, we'll be able to drive
the ball joint up and out. Cutting right through. This is working great. We're almost all the way through. If you want to, grab some pliers, give it
a little spin and try cutting from the other side. It's going to be super hot, so don't grab
it by your hand of course. Almost there. Very nice. Now we have a spot where we can drive this
right up. Just giving this a couple bonks just to see
if I can get it to break free from the differential tube. We're going to end up using the ball joint
press unit anyway. Okay. Looks like it's maybe starting to break free
a little bit but not enough. That's okay. We'll grab our ball joint tool and we can
continue. Okay, so we've got our ball joint tool on
here. Just got to do what you've got to do to get
it set up on there. Felt like it just broke free. Very nice. So now we're just going to use our air chisel. You can get yourself an air chisel right at
1AAuto.com. We're going to drive this straight up and
out of here. Let's see if it's going to want to work. Here we go. Grab our air chisel again. Here it comes. It's going to come up and flying away, so
we've got our eye and hand protection on already. Awesome. Okay, there's our upper ball joint. Okay, friends. Time to get the lower out of here. We're going to use the hollowed out one so
we can go over the shaft right here. I'm going to use the cup just like this. This ball joint is going to press down and
out. I'm going to take our tool, go right up through
the upper ball joint hole. Get this so it's ready to go. I like to bring this around so it hits right
up against, that way it can't spin on me when I'm trying to take the ball joint out. You can use your air gun or your ratchet,
whatever you want to do. Let's try it with the ratchet first. There it is. We just broke free right there. Awesome. We're driving it right down. Some people do this with a hammer. Just come right on it, bonk bonk bonk. It's up to you, it's your prerogative. We have the tool, why not use it? It's getting ready to come off now. There's our lower ball joint. So here we are, friends. A quick product comparison for you. Over here, we have our original upper and
lower ball joints out of our 1996 Dodge Ram 1500. And right here, we have our brand new, quality
1A Auto parts. As you can tell, they match up with what we
removed. We've got nice gnarled edges here. That's going to grip right into that differential
housing. Same thing on the upper. You've got nice gnarled edges right along
there. Brand new grease boots on both of them. That's always super important. And of course, brand new nuts. There really isn't too much more to say about
these, an exception of they're the same size as the originals. With that said, I don't see any reason why
these wouldn't be quality parts to install onto the vehicle, so I want to go ahead and
do it. As always, if you need these or any other
part, you can check us out at 1AAuto.com. Thanks. So to install this lower ball joint, you'll
be looking like this. Up in here. The way that we're going to press it in is
with this lip right here, but we've got a boot in the way. So we're just going to remove that. Obviously, we're going to have to take off
the nut in a second, but I'll leave that there so when I take off this boot it doesn't fall
and hit the ground. Here we are. Take off the nut, maybe. There we go. So now we can get right on this lip right
along here. You don't want to go up inside up along this
ball joint stud. You want to be out as far as you can on this
lip. Okay, so we have our ball joint. We've got some cups. What I did is I found a cup that'll fit right
along the edge on this. Okay. Catches it. You'll notice that the ball joint stud comes
down past the cup, so you need to use the adaptor that has the hole in it. You can put it whichever way you want, whichever
way fits. We're going to take this cub, this cover right
here, it's going to go right here. It's got a nice flat surface so when we put
our ball joint press, it's going to be able to press up against this and it's going to
draw the lower side up and in. I'll just get this on there just like that. Put this so it's centered. We want to make sure that that hole is completely
around that. Grab our ball joint press. Bring it up and in here. [inaudible 00:19:31] and loops here. Awesome. Reset, you wait that go. I'm just going to bring this around, just
like that. Awesome. You can use your air gun if you want or use
your ratchet again, you do your booboo, your gun will probably drive it up in there much
quicker. So you'll notice when you go to drive it up
in, sometimes it doesn't go up perfectly straight. You need it to go as straight as possible,
if it starts going up a little crooked, it's okay. Just loosen up your ball joint press, give
this a couple of taps and see if you can get it so it straightens out. Once a straightens out, you can continue. Looks like it's pretty great. Very nice. That's going to be straight to continue this,
I'm going to use my air gun now. If you don't have your air gun, you can continue
with your ratchet, so here we go, safety glasses. Double check. It's like it's going up nice and straight. Let's continue. Okay, I felt like I wanted to stop, so we're
just going check right along the sides here. It's like it's pretty darn flush, it's going
to give it a teeny bit more. It's definitely not going any further while
it's still on and it's under extreme pressure, I'm going to give this a couple of box right
here. Here we are just a little bit of vibration,
help get it in there. Now let's remove pressure. Awesome. Perfect. Now we can continue on with the upper ball
joint. We have our upper ball joint, we have the
neural end that goes down into the ear and go right up from the top, slide it right down. Okay. Now you're going to get your ball joint set
and you're going to find a cup that has a lip, that's going to ride right and along
this lip right here. That looks pretty great. Grab a cup for down bottom, this one, you
want to make sure it grabs along the edge of here and it's not anywhere near where the
boots going to be. You don't want to pinch your brand new boots,
you put a hold on that, you're going to have to either get a boot somehow or replace the
ball joint again where well, it could be multiple things that happen. But anyway, this is essentially going to go
like this and it has a hole in the bottom of this bottom cup so that way this stud can
make its way through. All right. So we'll hold that like that. I've got this little cover piece that's going
to put that right up there. Okay friends. So here we go, we've got our ball joint press
set up, I just want to show you real quick, I was going to take this back apart to show
you how I set it up, but in all honesty, it's pretty much at its maximum and it took two
of us to get it set up on here. You'll probably have to do the same, you need
to configure it in a way that you can have this stud coming down through the middle of
something, you should have two tools that have holes going up through them and then
of course the press itself has a hole going up through it. So the shaft, as you're driving it down into
the differential you're there, it's going to be able to come down through the holes,
just like that. Okay. Up top, the way you have to press is right
along this Ridge right here. You can't press on this area right here, if
you try pressing straight down onto this, you just ruined your ball joint and you can
go on one a auto.com buy yourself another one. This is what it looks like, it's sitting down
inside here. We're getting ready to press right along this
ridge like I said, we're going to grab some safety glasses and we'll give it a try. I'm just putting a little bit of penetrating
around here, maybe it'll help it along. I want to go ahead and lass this with my air
gun, use your ratchet if you want. You need to make sure you're wearing your
safety glasses, that's the most important thing, safety first. Just like we were doing the lower, you want
to make sure that this is getting driven in straight up and down. If it's not just re-situate it. This looks like it's working great, so let's
continue. We're going to bring this lip all the way
down to the ear. That looks wonderful. Okay, I'm going to use my hammer. I'm going to give the ear a couple bonks and
that's only for vibration, and that'll help it just in case it's sitting just a teeny
bit off. Just going to give it a little the vibration,
we'll take a peek at it, make sure it's sitting all the way down, all the way around. This looks really great, nothing to worry
about there. We're going to remove this, now when we go
to relieve pressure from this, there's going to be nothing holding any of these adapters
and doodads all on here. So you might have pieces going anywhere, make
sure you're safe and here we go. Here we are, just going see what I can get
out of here. Gone off of there, here's all our adapters
that we used. Double check our ball joint went around the
whole way. Perfect, and our stud. All right. No damage to the top, that's very important. We'll grab our boot, we'll make sure we get
that on there. Now's a perfect time if you want to add a
little extra lubricant in there, you could do that. A little bit of a front end grease or anything
you want to use could be helpful. Keep the moisture out of there, so we're going
to grab our boot, just go right up on here. Presses right up in there. Okay. Onto the lower ball joint boot, this one's
going to be a little bit more difficult. You'll notice on your boot you have a little
curve out there, that's going to go facing towards the inside of the vehicle that way. Getting this up on here can prove to be a
little bit difficult, but it's not always and with enough persistence it can be done. Just going to try to use my pliers and squeeze
along the edges here. Sometimes they're really hard to get up on
there this time. I think that ... I don't want to say anything
yet, but pretty sure you know what I'm saying, just by looking at it. That actually went up on there very easily. That's awesome. Thank you, 1A Auto. Let's move along. We've got our two brand new nuts, we remember
the castle nut, that goes to the upper ball joint, you can tell because it has a little
hole there. The lower, which is a much thicker stud is
going to have the bigger nut. I'm just going to take this, bring it right
up in it, start on both at the same time. You can start with whichever ball joint you'd
like. This one's easier for me to see. There's that, there's this one that up on
there. Perfect. Let's go ahead and snug these up. So here we are, we're going to put this on. We can use our inch and eighth socket. We're right up on there. Last it up. Here we are, it spins nice and free. Now let's tighten up this one, let's get this
one up on here and use our 22. What we want to do is make sure that we have
the slot on the castle nut lined up with the hole in the style. If it's not, you just give it a little turn,
once you have a turn to the point that you can put a Cotter pin through, you're doing
all right. Let's try a Cotter pin real quick, let's see
how we're doing. All right, so it just looks like I need to
go a little bit more. Oh yeah, that's nice. Okay, so as you can tell when I put in the
Cotter pin, it just bumps up against here. No big deal. I'm just going to grab it and pull down on
the ears. Just like that, now I can continue. Just make sure that this spins freely. It does. It feels great, especially in comparison to
the way those other ball joints were. Let's just check this one real quick. Yeah, that's nice and tight. Tight, tight, let's move along. Okay, so we have our left front axle here. I just want to show you something fairly basic,
checking out your U-joints for play. You can grab your one part of your shaft and
the other part of your shaft, try to get more a little twist. If while you're twisting, you can see in between
here and here go [squeaky noise] you got a bad U-joint. This one right here, it looks fairly decent. If you do have a little bit of movement, you
know what you can do? As long as you have a grease fitting, which
is this right here we'll clean it out. We're going to add a little bit of grease
and that'll probably take up the majority of the movement. Another thing to test for is, if you can take
your axle and let go of this side and it doesn't fall down like that, it's just stuck. That means you have seized up bearings inside
of your U-joint caps. You can also tell just by going like this
side to side this way, if you're going feels free, free, free, stuck, stuck, free, free,
free, or even stuck here or wherever. If you feel any spot that feels like it sticks
and then it goes again and sticks and goes again, you've got bad bearings inside there. So this feels great, you can check it just
by going like this too. If it feels like it's stiff and it's stuck
like that, then you got yourself a bad U-joint, you can just replace that fairly easily. So we're just getting our rag out of there,
we're going to grab our axle, slide it right into the tube here. Somewhere deep down inside here, probably
right about here is where the seal is, that's the part that rides on the axle. The whole of it is in the center of this tube. So what you're going to need to do is get
it in and then lift up if you can and make it. So the far end of the shaft that's down inside
the tube, hopefully will lift up, that's our plan. How it happens is partially luck and of course
some skill, that's pretty decent. I just used my prybar, try to get in there
and try to give it a little wedge. So, we're just going to clean up this area
of the knuckle where the backing plate and the wheel bearing are going to ride, try to
have a nice smooth surface there. Safety glasses, hand protection, and this
tool right here is available at 1AAuto.com. That looks pretty great, it's clean it all
down a little bit here. If you want to, you can use little parts cleaner. This looks fairly decent, we're going to use
a little bit of copper anti-seize right along in here, and on these splines. The reason for getting it on these splines
is so that when this axle slides into the wheelbarrow, it'll be able to move around
a little bit, and then of course if there ever comes a day where I need to take it back
apart for some reason, it'll come off nice and easy. Same reason for in here. It's going to help keep things from seizing
up and getting rusted and rotted together. Does it have to be perfect? No, it doesn't have to be perfect. Or maybe for you it does, I don't know. Me personally, as long as it's pretty good,
even take my gloved finger, make sure it goes all the way around this, I'm going to go right
up along here because well, why not? Cool. All right. Let's grab our backing plate and move along. So our backing plate is in pretty poor condition,
you could of course try to get yourself a new one if you'd like, or if for some reason
you didn't want to replace it, you could just try to clean it up and try to make the best
meeting surface as possible on both sides. For the purpose of this video, it's just an
instructional video, so I'm going to just clean it up real quick, we'll make it so it
looks fairly decent and we'll move along. So like we said before, the backing plate
is in really poor condition. Theoretically, it might be a really great
idea to just get yourself a new one. Like I said before though, also the purpose
of this video is just an instructional video to show you how to install stuff, so I'm just
going to trim this part off, it doesn't do anything. Here we are. This can still go here, we're going to put
the bearing up on there, it's going to hold hard up against here, here and here, and the
backing plate won't be able to move around. I think we should be all set with it like
that. Let's grab the bearing and we'll move along. We've got our three bolts, we can use a little
bit of thread locker if you'd like, we'll call it your prerogative. Turn this, I'm just going to start these in
here. There we are, cool. Grab our backing plate, and our bearing is
going to go right up on here, push that bolt through to hold it for me, that one as well,
why not? The bearing itself, it's all the same all
the way around. So there really isn't anything to putting
this on, you don't have to be like, oh, there's ABS wire, anything really pretty basic.Get
it up on here, just going to slide it up towards the vehicle, the axle sliding through the
holes right here. Bring it in, keep on pushing. Very nice. Start in these bolts real quick and we'll
bottom them out and we'll torque them down to manufacturer's specifications. So we're just going to bottom out these bolts
real quick. So we're going to torque this down with our
9/16 12-point to 125 foot pounds. There it is. All three of those are torques, so our bearing
is nice and torqued onto the knuckle, we can continue. So let's grab our tire rod in here and get
the nut off of there, put aside because we're going to be using it in one second. This will end up in here, start that on, there
we are. We're just going to bottom this out and then
we'll torque it down. We're going to go 65 foot pounds. We'll just double check, make sure that our
castle slot is lined up with the hole in the stud, which it is. If it was not, you would not want to loosen
it to get it to the next slot, you would want to tighten it. I'm just go a little bit tighter until it
lines up perfectly and you can get the Cotter pin through. Take our Cotter pin, just put it right through,
this one end it up. Just pin it over. Some people like to go to the side of the
side, they do all sorts of special designs. I'm not that type, as long as it's curled
over and it can't come out, that's going to hold this nice and tight, and it's good to
go. So we've got our bar here, we're just going
to go right inside the axle in between where the U-joint goes. Just try to get it up and in there so that
that way, when we turn our wheel bearing, it can't turn very far. Once you have it in there, you can grab your
sandwich in three quarters and we're going to snug this up and then we'll torque it down. So we've got our washer and our castle nut,
that up on there. You can see right here is where the cotter
pin is going to go, there's the little hole. So once we get this on, we're going to snug
it, then we're going to torque it and hopefully we're going to be able to get the Cotter pin
to be able to line up with one of these slots and that axle hole. Torque it. We're going to go 175 foot counts. Looks like it lines up pretty well. Let's grab a Cotter pin and we'll put it in. In here, Cotter pins almost all the way in
there. Grab this side, come on out, there we go,
awesome. Take both these ends, pin them over. There is no way that this cotter pin is going
to be able to work its way out and also no way this nut will be able to loosen up on
its own. Bar out of here and we can move along. We're going to use a little bit of copper
anti-seize. That's just right on the meeting surface where
the rotor is going to sit. We'll grab our rotor, get the rotor up on
here just like that, awesome. I'm just going to do something to make it
so the rotor can't move around, just have a spare nut laying around. I'm going to take my lug nut, slide it right
like that. That just keeps the rotor from flopping around
and any potential rust from falling down in between here and the hub behind there. Let's get our caliper down here, you want
to make sure that your hose doesn't have any twists. Maybe you lifted it up and you brought it
around and you did all sorts of things, now you're looking at it and it's a big old curly-cue. That's obviously not going to be very functional
and it's going to take up a lot of the slack that we need to be able to turn the vehicle,
so we're just going to take it like that, we've got a nice little rainbow here. Take our caliper sliders, push them in as
far as we can, this one, it's pretty close. It's like it's almost ready to side on there. Oh yeah, here we are. 10 millimeter round head, same thing we use
to remove these. I'm just going to wiggle it around till I
feel like it starts to grab into the hole. It's going in, so I'm just going to leave
it just like that for now, we'll tighten it up in a minute. Now we're going to do this one, do the same
thing. We wiggle around until it starts feeling like
it's going in. It's definitely going in, that it's bottom
though, come back down here, bottom this one now. Grab our torque wrench, we're going to torque
these down to 38 foot pounds. Here we are, tight, tight. Just get this back off of here, we're going
to grab our wheel, we'll get it up on here, bottom it out, and then we'll torque it down. Okay, friends, so here we go. It's time to get the wheel up onto there. To do that, you never want to try and bend
over like this, grab your wheel and lift with your back. You're going to potentially hurt yourself. And 1A Auto, we do not want you to hurt yourself. Show you something fairly simple. Bring your leg right up to it, grab onto it,
roll it right up your leg just like this, and then lift with your leg/Ab muscles. That went up there easy peasy. We're going to grab our lug nuts. Start them on there. So now we're going to take our 19 millimeter
socket and we're going to snug up these lug nuts in a star pattern. The reason for going in a star is so that
if we tighten it up and it kicks off to the side like this, we might think we have it
all fully tightened and we might even torque it down, and the torque wrench says it is. Once you hit a bump, bonk bonk, this thing's
free as goose. So, let's go like this. By going in a star pattern, it starts one
side in, you do the other side, it sucks it right down, and then it'd be sitting nice
and level for time to torque down. Okay friends. So it's time to torque up our lug nuts. We're going to go ahead and use our 19 millimeter
socket, and we're going to torque these down to 125 foot pounds. Okay. Do you want to go around one more time? Why not? It doesn't cost you anything. Small price to pay for safety. Torqued, down the road we go. Thanks for watching. Visit 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts shipped
to your door, the place for DIY Auto Repair. And if you enjoyed this video, please click
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