How to Replace a Clutch and Throw Out Bearing Front Wheel Drive Vehicle | Step by Step!

hello and welcome to two car pros today we are doing a rather big job on how to replace a clutch in a front-wheel drive vehicle now the vehicle I'm showcasing today is a 2012 Chevrolet Sonic however I've made this more of a general guide for pretty much every make and model that has a front-wheel drive front engine configuration so I'm going to be calling out sizes throughout the video but they might be different for you as I say other than that all I have to say is you're going to need gloves and if you don't like gloves this is whatever and you're going to need some eye protection here you're also going to need a respirator or a face mask or something that's rated to handle asbestos because clutch dust is made of asbestos and you don't want to bring breathe that in other than that there's really nothing much more to it than a plethora of different tools and sizes as I list in the video so let's go ahead and get started ok so the first thing we need to do like in any major repair is remove the negative battery terminal cable and with this specific repair we're gonna need to remove the battery totally you always take the negative terminal off first I know some people kind of get that confused but you take the negative off first and then the positive and then when you're replacing the battery you put the positive on first and the negative on second there we go okay so the battery strap is held in with a 13 millimeter bolt I am working on a 2012 Chevrolet Sonic the words might be different but in this instance since the 13 millimeter so with the battery strap or battery securing device out of the way and both of the cables remove like I said earlier we can remove the battery so the next thing we need to do is unplug the ECM because it's attached to our battery cradle here so we got kind of kind of lucky on that so you got to flick this safety up okay so you flick this thread safety up here and then you push down on this top part to come up like that make sure this extends fully up and it becomes unplugged just like that and you've got three times okay so now we can remove the battery cradle for these three 13 millimeters so the next thing we need to remove off the battery cradle is this amperage sensor and it looks like it just pull straight out so that's nice and easy and then there's a little clamp that holds the negative wire to it down here okay so with that removed okay now to get the battery cradle out of the way okay so the next thing we need to worry about is these shift linkage itself now on this particular model it looks like we'll be able to just get our nice long needlenose here and kind of just pry it off a little bit there we go just like that and see it's kind of like a little ball joint there and you just force it off so it's really easy okay so we are continuing to remove the shift linkage here and I've got a little hook tool and I'm gonna pull back on this plastic fitting it's spring-loaded to keep the shift linkage in place so I pull that towards me very slightly just like that and this should lift out just like that okay so the next thing I'm doing is I'm removing all of these little electrical connector holders from around the transmission I'm not going to show you each and every one because yours is gonna probably be different unless you're working on our 2012 chevrolet sonic but the basic gist of them is get underneath them and pry them up so it makes moving the transmission later easier there we go okay so next I'm going to show you one electrical connector on the transmission there can be up to three on a manual transmission like this and you need to go around and unplug them I'm gonna show you how to do one and then it's up to you to do the rest so on this particular connector it looks like you pull straight up on this gray safety here on the backside of the connector and then and then just lift straight up like that actually I pushed in on the side here as well I lifted up this gray connector I push on the side there and lifted it straight out and that's what it looks like when you're done there could be a few all over the transmission should just look look around and if there's electrical connector or something stuck to it like one of these one of these little securing things for the wire go ahead and remove that too because we're gonna need to remove the transmission later so the next thing we need to worry about here is the hydraulic line that goes into the transmission this is the clutch hydraulic line here now if we just take this line off without stemming the flow it'll just bleed all over everywhere and it'll make a big mess so what I have here is some vice grips here with some tubing over knee over the teeth to protect our hydraulic line and we're just gonna clamp that like this nice and gentle but it will prevent the flow so that's good and now we can move on okay so now we can remove the hydraulic line here there's a little clip it's kind of like a horseshoe clip so we can keep one side proud off and then go for the other and there we go okay so I took off the wheel I'm not gonna show you how to do that you should definitely know how to do that if you don't I have a great video on that you can check that out here now what you need to do because there's no cotter pin like you used to be in the good old days we have this it's kind of just chiseled in here like this in the factory so basically we need to get a punch and make sure use a punch not a screwdriver and Hammer this up so we can get the nut off here that looks pretty good okay so I'm gonna be using a 35 millimeter socket here to take off this nut with my half a chimp at gimme [Music] there we go that's what looks like next we can turn all the way to the right just like that so we can have more access to the back so the next thing we need to do is remove this pinch bolt nut here that is a 15 millimeter for me may be different for you there's a nut on the backside we need to hold good and there we go that's what that looks like there okay so doing it the other way wasn't really working so I've readjusted this way so I can put a lot more pressure on it once it's free you can lift that back up a little bit argue okay so we have the CV axle coming into this hub assembly here now if you can't push it back relatively easily like I can with one finger here it might be rusted together now this is a California car so it doesn't really have any rust but if you do live somewhere where it snows and there's rust as a problem you get some w4t squirt it on in there put the nut back on to protect the threads grab a plastic hammer and hit it on back to kind of break it loose so it's easier to remove okay so with the axle free moving like that you can see that we can pull this smoothly out just like that what the axe will hang for a sec okay so here is where the CV axle connects into the transmission just here and you might be pulling on that it's not coming loose but that's because there's a little c-clip in there and you're gonna need a pry bar to kind of help it out just like that and make sure you're ready for fluid coming out because this is what its gonna happen so I should mention at this juncture that lots of people drain their transmission fluids before they remove the CV axle I am NOT one of them because then you're just gonna have to fill it back up all the way now when you remove your CV axle you put it all back together yeah you're done no you need to check the fluid again to make sure it's a bowl because obviously you've lost some now we can remove the CV axle it should just pull straight out there we go and Lutz comes up area yeah that's what looks like there okay so at the top here and the spines are you can see the c-clamp we were fighting earlier or c-clip to see click we were fighting earlier that's what it looks like that's what you're fighting against ok so I am on the engine side of the car now see most the engines over here now in order to get the power for the transmission over this side of the car you can see this shaft here there's an axial support bearing in here that ties the CV into a the CV axle and do it so this is the one additional step you need to do in addition to what I've already shown you on the other side and for me this is a 13 millimeter but it might be different for you and you just got to do that for all three of them here okay so what you're looking at now is the torque mount for the bottom of the engine so the engine is held in by two mounts at the top and this controls for DAF movement of the engine transmission combo due to torque forces but we need to remove it in order to get our transmission out are backwards enough to get to the clutch so we can undo these three bolts and leave it or what I'm gonna do is undo those three bolts and this one too to get this out of the way these are an 18 millimeter for me it might be different for you you know those four bolts remove we can remove this torque mount okay so the next thing I've noticed that's in the way of some bellhousing bolts is the starter so we're gonna need to remove this now we can remove the two bolts that hold it in place and then hang it somewhere with like a zip tie and we don't actually have to undo the wires don't let it hang by the wires but we can leave it installed in the car so it's just out of our way now here I'm gonna show you how to do one and there's another there's another bolt on top of the starter I can't really show you because well the starters in the way so let's go ahead and do this take this nut off here and remove this grounding wire set that aside and then we need to take off this bolt here which we're gonna need a deep well for there you go that looks like okay so we got an extension here that's basically the length of the starter to reach behind behind the starter sorry it's all elbows and darkness nothing I do about that and you just kind of stab up there until you get a hold of the top bolt and I only broke it loose a teeny bit and then I use my you know my fingers here to walk the bolt out and that's what that looks like there take that from a top there's only two holding it on yeah just there perfect and now we can grab a zip tie and zip tie the starter in place and don't leave it hanging by the wires okay perfect okay so you can see that I have zip tied the starter main body to this piece of exhaust here and it's very very stable make sure it's nice and tight so it doesn't fall off and yank some of the wires off the starter that would be a problem so that is perfect okay so now we can start focusing on the bell housing bolts that hold the transmission to the engine here there is a couple different sizes so I'll list them out as I'm going and they might be different for you so that's something you're gonna have to try out here and that's okay so this is an 18 millimeter here on these bigger ones there you go and that was a bit bond very tight at all that makes things easy there we go you can see that's a big sucker as a dad bolt it's toughness the next ones I'm gonna focus on are these bottom three here there's a these three are basically the same things if this one is going in the other direction so go ahead and remove these three and they're a 15 millimeter for me there we go there's three more bellhousing bolts removed okay so the next thing we've come across is this bolt nut combo here and this is an inverted Torx size II 14 and then not on the other size is size is a 15 millimeter that might be different for you can remove that okay the next thing we're gonna focus on is we're gonna need to leave two of these big bolts in but we can break them loose so but we need to leave them in because if we start we undo everything the transmission the engine will become independent of each other and fall down a little bit and we'll have problems we don't want that just yet so we're gonna leave this one loose but we're gonna leave it in but break it loose so that's really good enough yeah so leave this in and then the other one on the other side and I'll have an adjoining pair so on the other side the next thing we need to do is remove these top two bellhousing bolts and my pointer there just from there and the other one right here so we need to move both of those there's - okay so way down there my pointers on the end of right there that's perfect that's the adjacent bolt I was talking about so we're just gonna loosen that one turn and leave it okay so what we have here is an engine support cradle these are available to rent and most auto parts stores or you can buy them on amazon link down below in the description I pick this up for about 50 bucks or so and it is worth every penny it's very happy to be I'm enjoying it quite a lot so what you want to do is make sure your feet are on the rails here on the fender the top of the fender and then you want to make sure these are nice and tight and fit perfectly which mine are nice and tight and awesome since we're I'll be meeting with the front of the engine this is kind of superfluous we're not going to be using that today but here we're gonna be using this now here is the hook it's a basically an assembly hook when they've lowered the engine transmission into the vehicle during assembly but here today we're gonna be using it to kind of lower the back of the engine down so that's what we're gonna be feeding our chain through onto the hook assembly for our cradle okay so now we can feed our chain through here just like that I want to make sure that the hook is kind of in a medium position so we have enough travel to go up and down because if you had it all the way back out it could fall out while you're working on it which is not good and if you have it up too high you won't be able to raise it any so in a medium position like this is perfect and then we just need to hook the chain on here [Applause] [Music] just like that the next thing we need to do is put tension on this chain here to make it nice and taut now if you couldn't feed your chain through that hook like we did you can use a bolt and nut together to hold the chain to it and the reason we're doing this is because when we remove the transmission mount the back of the engine is I can be supported with anything so this is gonna help hold the back of the engine for us so make sure it's nice and tight there and yeah it's under some tension so that's good so you can see it's now has no slack there's quite a lot of tension on there so you know this is gonna hold the back of the engine for us now the back of the engine is supported so we can remove this mount here that holds the transmission to the back of these internal engine cradles so these are three 15 millimeter bolts on top I'm gonna remove them there we go and that's why you need the cradle we showed you earlier okay we can continue removing this part of the transmission mount now it's kind of an a two-piece assembly here so we need to remove this here we go that transmission mount comes out so the next thing I'm going to do is lower the engine down a little bit so I have more clearance looks pretty good so the next thing I've grabbed here's my transmission jack because we don't want to remove that less flat last bellhousing bolt and before the transmission is supported there we go nice to support it now we can worry about that last bell housing bolt okay so now we can remove our final bell housing bowl make sure it's supported don't cheap out plenty and rent the transmission jack doesn't do it there we go yeah this juncture I can start wiggling this back and forth if it's not coming by hand can grab a little prying implement or something to kind of separate the transmission from the engine now if it's really not coming apart go ahead and look around again for another bolt you may have missed so we can go ahead and wiggle this okay there you go us oh I barely even touched it the thing disjoin so that's awesome now we can move on so I'm here on the front side of the car you know right side of the engine if you look at it straight on and I got my prying implement and I can kind of get it in there and wedge it apart on this side then go to the other side and we'll kind of walk that apart and just keep going from side to side walking the transmission back as I go okay so we ran into a bit of a roadblock I'm kind of glad we did because this can happen in some cars we have the transmission this mated from the engine here but there's not enough clearance to get it down it's short by about maybe an inch inch and a half so you might be asking what you have to do and sometimes it to take the engine and transmission out together but what we're gonna do next is loosen the engine cradle that holds it in the car and maybe that'll give us enough clearance to get it out okay so you just kind of kind of look around they're gonna be different for every car on these engine cradle support this one's a 15 millimeter might be different for you they'll show you how to remove one and then once I've removed enough I can show you kind of around which ones I've removed so here we go there's one okay so the next thing we need to do the next thing we need to do is remove the engine cradle inside the car because the transmission does not have enough clearance so we're going to start by removing these three bolts on both sides there's one on this side and one over here on the left just want to start with that and then we can move on to the other things we need on both so the next thing we need to unbolt is up here on the upper sway bar link because it's gonna be the easiest to get off right here and that will allow more of a cradle to come free so that allow the sway bar to become free because it too is attached to the cradle next we can come down here and undo these bolts and also this inverted torques because this inverted torques here is what the steering rack is attached to now when we remove the cradle the steering rack can group by itself that's okay as long as we're removing these bolts and these bolts that inverted torques we remove that bolts that's looking good and then the steering car not the stimuli there's a sway bar linkage up top on the other side that we already showed you the passenger side and then I think we're good okay so what I've done here is gotten a ratchet strap wrapped it around this very strong plastic support for the radiator because once we undo the engine cradle the engine or the radiator is really not gonna have anything to support it and you don't want it hanging by its own tubes because they can be fragile so I have this ratchet strap here to support it and it's hooked down there and it also comes up to hook right here on the hood latch so I miss this accessory earlier so we need to remove this off of this subframe here and go ahead and look around again in case there's some object like this on your subframe that may not be on the ones I'm showing you as your car may be a little bit different this is a 13 millimeter for me it's off the subframe now I can move this sway bar up or show you our linkage here it's 18 millimeter deep well there we go these breathable they're 13 millimeter okay and that looks like the final front engine support here at least on the front we've still got to do the back back okay so I may have pointed out earlier you might have to remove this you on mine you don't it's part of the suspension so it holds the EI arm to this cradle here but it's gonna come with it so we don't really need to undo it we need to undo this one that I loosened earlier this big sucker because this is what multi-point two cradled in the car this has that vault now see this sort of above the a arm here we're gonna leave this one and its twin on the other side of the vehicle because these are gonna be the final two that we removed because if you removed these prematurely things gonna fall on top of you and it's really heavy ok so the next thing we need to do is unbolt these inverted torques that go into the steering rack through the cradle here now what's interesting about my situation is it's actually a bolt nut combo so there's an 18 millimeter bolt or nut on the top the feed point goes into so I gotta get a wrench on there a little little hard to see so you're just gonna kind of take my word for it check out that bolt okay the next thing we need to do is remove these I don't know maybe combs straps had connect the body to the cradle here I think they're for stability in there 13 millimeter for me and we can do both sides okay so we have some exhaust hangers here that go over already remove this one here I come down onto the cradle so rather than removing the exhaust I think we can get away with just doing this like I did here and just pushing them off the mountings he's awesome gonna fall off it's bolted in place perfect so now we've come to the exciting part where we are releasing the two bolts that are holding the cradle to the car now since I'm one guy I'm gonna use the transition jack here because the transmissions being held up by the engine remember and we're gonna push it put it underneath the cradle here to hold one side while going to do the pull and then when we're doing the other bolt we have something to hold this side okay so now I'm going to undo the bolt on this side of the cradle and passenger side while the transmission jack is holding up and there we go okay before we undo this final bolt go ahead and give it another look around and kind of jiggle it a little bit make sure there's nothing holding it in there's actually an inner cooler hose bracket I missed that I had to remove so even I miss stuff so go ahead and do that right now once you've done that now we can review the final bolt okay so now we're gonna remove this bolt here and I'm gonna have to support it while I do it cuz the Grails gonna come down okay now at this juncture I'm gonna have somebody help me out release the transmission jack lie hold this side panel jiggle and wiggle is comes in there we go nice and easy and now I can go set it on the shop floor okay so here we have the transmission made into the engine with only those two adjacent Bell sent our bolts that I showed you earlier this is the time to look around and do a triple quadruple check to make sure there's no lines there's no electrical there's nothing in the way inhibiting this from coming down this is the time to look and double check your work to make sure you don't have a boo-boo later because we don't like boo-boos they're tough to clean up okay so now we are raising our transmission jack to the transmission here I have it mounted this way so that way I can control the app motion so I can made it to the engine weight so that's why I'm doing it this way so I have the chain from over here mounting over overtop crossways on the transmission over here to this wingnut so I can screw it in and have it secured and I also want to go over that I have a block of wood on the flat part here on the transmission jack because it's a little funny shape and you're gonna have to kind of tailor make something you know some people have a lot of Delrin laying around Dalbir in the work so the manufacturing plastics really cool I'm just using wood because that's what I got laying around and make sure you're using this chain and make sure it is nice and tight before we let it down so now we can move on to removing the two adjacent bolts we left in to hold the transmission to the engine and they're 18 millimeter from in case you forgot so the bolt on the other side the adjacent both the twin to this one we were doing earlier I've already removed that it's kind of just elbows in darkness I didn't show on camera but this one I can show very easy and this is the final bolt very exciting what you want to do at this point is walk the transmission backwards a little bit just input shaft clears which it hasn't done just yet because we can lower it down a little bit see it's kind of like a dance gotten lowered a little bit move it back a little bit lower it a little bit move it back a little bit down a little bit there we go and the input shaft has cleared I'm ready to lower it completely down okay so from this point forward you're gonna want to use a mask or a respirator of some sort because clutches are typically made out of asbestos which is obviously poisonous to humans and you don't want to breed that in so this is what your fly wheel looks like when you've abused it there's a crack here there's bunch of hot spots and just general wear and tear this is exactly what a fly wheel looks like when it needs to be taken off and thrown in the trash and the new one purchased okay the next thing we can do is remove these six Torx bolts here if you're very curious it is a TX 55 size again there is asbestos so make sure you're wearing a mask I'm recording this narration separately so I'm gonna show how to remove one and then we're going to remove all six and then I will show walking the fly wheel off so with those six torques is out we can remove it now if the fly wheels a little stuck on we can get a prying implement and place it behind the fly wheel to kind of walk it backward just like that okay so what you're looking at here is the rear main seal goes around there now I'm the reason I bring this up is because if you're doing this job and you might suspect your rear main seal is no good anymore and you want to invest in your car's future here's a great way to do it do the rear main seal while you're at it that's not what this videos about though it's just a heads up in a tip okay so you can see here this is the back of the clutch disc we just removed and you can see that the clutch material is basically all ground down to her these rivets are these rivets are nice and shiny which means that the flywheel was grinding on them which inhibits this clutch plates ability to function you can also see that the heat has turned the inside color here a lighter color than the outside so that's a good indication that this was abused and it's also flaking off the side you can even hear it kind of crunches I'm handling it and the other side has not fared very well either and there's also little tiny hairline cracks on the surface themselves so that is what a clutch that has done looks like alright so my new flywheel has come in I had to order it from the Chevrolet dealership it was super hard to track down a vine so when you're doing yours make sure you have your VIN number readily available so you order the correct flywheel the first time here and what we need to do next is compare it here to our old one making sure as the same amount of holes here from the bolts making sure it has the same amount of hole heat pulls right here these threads has the same number of prongs and it's the same diameter but this looks exactly the same so it's ready to go back in the car okay so we're ready to put the flywheel back on the rear the rear the crankshaft here now before I get started I want to say that some i wills go on one way they can only go on one way so you need to be extra careful make sure there's no dowels sticking out or bolt patterns that inhibit which way it goes mine is all symmetrical so it looks like it just goes on any way you want so read on your respirator and let's put the Flyway back on so I was actually a little wrong earlier about my being symmetrical and going on anyway I rotated around and saw that this is pretty much the only way the bolts can go in so if it doesn't go on start turning this around without turning the crankshaft and eventually all the holes will match up and that's the way it should go on whenever working with something like this make sure you go star pattern in a little bit and then use a torque wrench to make sure they're all correctly torqued okay so I have my gun here in the low setting you could do this with a with a hand ratchet as well I'm gonna be doing it very lightly with the gun in a star pattern and then I'm gonna go around with a torque wrench [Music] so I have a helper holding the front of the engine for me with the breaker bar on the harmonic balancer so that doesn't spin so the crankshaft doesn't spin while I try to torque these I'm wearing mine to 65 foot pounds make sure you look yours up and torque it in a star pattern there we go nice last one and we can move on so the next thing we need to do is take some carburetor spray and clean the clutch flywheel mating surface that's right here you can see there's some manufacturers grease or something on there that needs to be grease free because if it's not the clutch will grab extra hard which we don't want so we want this to have some slip so we need to be grease free you know it's kind of the opposite of what you think it would do but that's what happens so you can see that there's something on there so we need to clean it off another side note little anecdote for you this is an odd flywheel see how it moves really good in my experience it really doesn't do that but this is a dual mass flywheel so that's normal okay so now we can take a look at our new clutch disc here looks like this we can compare it to our old one that's following a partner I'm going in my hands and we want to make sure that they're identical you know same size same basic construction and the spline is the same and this one is so that's good we can set this aside and next we can compare a flex plate to make sure this is identical to our old one make sure knows the same amount of holes it's the same diameter it looks the same and yeah it's exactly the same so we can go ahead and move on the next thing we can do is use some carburetor spray and go around this mating surface because there has to be absolutely no oil or residue on this mating surface or when you put the car back together it won't work properly it'll grab too much there we go and that is super clean and I also want to mention that make sure you don't get any kind of grease or oil on the new clutch so make sure you have really clean hands or I recommend gloves wear wear gloves for this job it's a good one okay so we're here at the input shaft for the transmission and what we're gonna do is take the fatter side and put it towards it and we're basically making sure the spline count is the same and it fits just like that because if it doesn't fit on here you have the wrong clutch okay so the next part is super important pay attention so you can see here there's a thicker side of the clutch we call that the fat side you want the fat side facing outward as if you put on like this and ain't gonna work it needs to be this way fat side out so we can put that in there as we can for now there is no clutch alignment tool for this particular vehicle if your kit came with a clutch alignment tool it's good to use it but we're gonna have to do a little trick here for this one because they only make one I called O'Reilly and they don't even have it so okay now we can install the pressure plate here making sure we get the alignment dowels and the threads lined up right and it's gonna hover a little bit there's gonna be a little bit of a gap here and we need to put at least two bolts in by hand so the clutch doesn't slip out there yeah that's pretty good okay so what I'm doing here is using an extension to try to find the Center for the clutch because this vehicle does not have a clutch alignment tool so I'm going to be moving this clutch around like I showed you earlier to do my best at centering it up something you kind of eyeball and look at while you're doing it okay so this next part is super important this is where everybody gets it wrong what we need to do is tighten the bolts that hold the pressure plate on in a star pattern and we need to tighten them a little bit at a time symmetrically and evenly and as we do that we'll see these fingers start to go in so what I'm gonna do here I have a little teeny tiny ratchet and I'm just gonna do a couple turns here go over here couple turns go over here couple turns and just keep doing this in a star pattern until it's nice and tight like that do exactly that until it's nice and snug okay so I've tightened them evenly bit by bit with the limit teeny tiny ratchet they're about as far as I can go by hand and I'm going to grab my torque wrench and torque it to the factory spec make sure you look that up and you can have a helper hold the front of the engine for you because this thing will spin when you try to apply force onto it okay so I have lived on my respirator because all of this powder in here is asbestos and it's poisonous so wear a respirator now the first thing we need to do is undo this retaining clip here with a pair of needle nose I take a couple of whatever this is oh I see they can see that this is loose now and if you flip it over you can see the retaining in clip we need to remove okay so this is the hydraulic fluid line connector as you can see it's loose we need to remove this clip here okay so the next thing I'm going to do while learning a respirator is grab my t30 torx to take out the throat area here there we go they're not in super tight factor you can just break them loose and then get the rest out by hand they're not in very tight that's nice yeah yeah and then put those for your move you're gonna move my throat very good okay so I have the throw out bearing and slave here they're kind of an all-in-one unit this is the new one and we need to make sure it's identical to the old one which it totally is so we are ready to put this new unit back to the transmission okay so now we can replace the slave cylinder throughout marrying exactly how I removed it nothing really to it make sure you've done your respirator for this I will have a link down the description below for a very cost effective respirator on Amazon that has prime shipping so put it like that that is absolutely essential for this repair make sure we tighten these evenly and remember these weren't on super tight when we were moved up so they are a very low load torque value I'm not going to bother with the torque wrench just medium tighten is probably good you can always tell kind of what a tightness should be by the size of the bolts and these are pretty small bolts I'm only doing what I would call this tight like that that's perfect okay so with this hydraulic line here you can remove this plastic protecting the piece we want to make sure this own whirring is on there because the whole thing seals are the ring so if that organ is not there stop what you're doing look around for it because if you don't have that on there it's gonna leak everywhere okay so when replacing this hydraulic line connector here my own ring this rubber piece on the end was actually stuck down in there I had to dig that out so I'm just telling you guys now I've also replaced a clerk because in the factory they just put these clips on and push on and it's ready to rock so we're just gonna emulate back and these pieces have timers that go together pretty much a long like that and then it has a little slotted groove that goes in that way so this should all just push together while holding the line from the other side in the bell housing there you go you hear that nice you're in click that means it is properly seated okay so the next thing we're gonna do is we're gonna go around the mating surface between the transmission and the engine this one here and you can see there's a cable in our way so this is when you double check to make sure nothing is on the mating surfaces no wires no cables no nothing this needs to be a metal to metal connection because if you pinch any kind of wire then you have some big problems cuz it's gonna ground something out something might get ruined so this is really important to take your time go around 2 3 4 times to make sure there's nothing on the mating surface now we can replace our transmission okay so I've adjusted the height of the transmission jack and the tilt of the transmission jack so this plane and this plane are parallel to each other at all points so once you have that you can start kind of you know shimmying the transmission onto the engine there there we go looks pretty good okay so this is something you're gonna kinda have to manhandle back and forth to get it seated on there like this so once we get it kinda within bolting distance we can put some bolts in and really cinch it up ok so what I've done here is put the transmission on this down here and I'm going to put in a bolt cuz this is gonna help me align it so what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna tighten it a little bit and then go across to the other side of the transmission and do an adjacent bolt so I'm gonna do this a couple turns that's it I'm going to go to the other side because again this is kind of like the pressure plate where you want it to be put on evenly and kind of walked on there instead of one side really tight and then you do the other side so that's what we're gonna do it so this is our next Jason bolt here it's on the exact opposite side of the one-week is big so we can thread this in and this one's a little bit shorter so pay attention here where are you removed your bolts from and try to keep them as organized as best you can so I'm going to be tightening this one and the other adjacent bolt a couple of threads at a time so I'm going to go hit the other one right now couple threads there come back to this one couple threads here so we're slowly walking the transmission back on to the engine we're almost completely made and we're very close and the more time you take doing it the better do not be in a hurry to do this job this is a weekend with a couple buddies job and certainly not on something you have to get to work on Monday there we go that one's pretty good and then we finished the other one I showed earlier and they're both cinch completely up okay so the next thing I'm gonna do is replace all the bellhousing bolts and tighten them I'm not gonna show you each and every one because I showed you how to remove them but yeah basically we're just replacing all the bellhousing bolts and tightening them up there we go okay so now that we have all the bellhousing bolts back in place we can move the transmission jack because it's bolted to the engines not going in here so we gonna do our chain here okay Shane out of the way it is ready to come off the transmission alright okay so the next thing we can do is replace our transmission mount here I'm gonna put it in its home and then grab the bolts that go to it they're a little bit a little bit bigger here so I'm gonna thread these are where we take them okay so now we can tighten these up here we go okay so the next thing we need to do is gain access to our engine cradle here because we need to raise the engine transmission up so we can get the bolts back in for the transmission mount okay so what I'm gonna do next is I'm going to grab this by the chain and push this rearward while using my other hand to bring this mount so that way the bolts line up you might have to jiggle around the mount a little bit okay so you didn't see any of that because I had to be where the camera is basically you really need to manhandle this kind of in this rubber housing and shift it and push it along it took some effort so don't get frustrated if these don't go in right away so now we can tighten those up okay so now that the transmission you know the rear half is supported this is unnecessary so we can get rid of it okay so I'm underneath the car now you can see me hi what I'm gonna be doing is plugging in all the electrical connectors around the transmission so they typically just push on like this they clip in place and you're good to go so I showed you one now you got to go around and make sure all those are connected okay so the next thing we need to worry about is the hydraulic clutch line here now I know what you're thinking that you're gonna have to bleed this as soon as it's put back together I'm true this is a self bleeding system so once everything's back together and we hop on the driver's seat we just need to pump the clutch pedal a little bit so this is pretty easy just push this back in just like that it couldn't be any easier and then I'm gonna get rid of my vise grips here that's that so the next thing we need to do is replace the shift cables that we removed earlier these are pretty simple they just kind of snap into place here okay so you snap this back down into its home and then put this back on it's ball mount there and got to do the same thing for this one as well okay here we go that's the shift cables put back okay so the next thing we need to do is replace the starter and ours had a ground on there so we've got to replace that as well so we're going to tighten those up make sure you tighten the top one on the bottom one similarly so it's not on crooked when you're tightening it and then once both of them are tight we can replace this ground so if you leave that ground off I just showed you all kinds of odd things can happen electrically in the car so it's important to put it on okay so the next thing we need to do is replace the CV axle so much show you how to do one because the other side is exactly the same so we ought to make sure the c-clip is intact which this one is perfect I'm just kind of give it a nice wipe down with a rag before I install it so there's no dirt as if there's dirt on there it won't seal a little leak which is in knowbut so when we put it back in I got I could be kind of firm with it because we got to seat that clip back in basically there we go okay we can put this side of the CV American up um like that the next thing you do is put the axle nut on here once it's threaded we can get our air go okay okay so next thing we need to do is torque the axle nut it's gonna be a big number like 160 to 180 foot-pounds look up yours to be sure but that's a good rule of thumb and what I've done here has gotten a big pry bar and I'm holding it here on the studs while I torque this so that way I can get an accurate reading perfect okay so the next thing we need to do is take a very good size chisel or punch here we're gonna stake in the sides of the axle nut so it doesn't go anywhere okay so now we're gonna place the cradle here okay so I've got the cradle back up here supported by the transmission jack kind of an advantage if you're doing this on the ground because you could just kind of stack wood around makes a little easier but I'm going to replace this one I'm gonna do all the bolts on the cradle by hand cinch those up by hand first before I tighten any of them so I don't worry with all those details but that's what I'm doing here cuz there's really not much to it just put it in my hand put them all in by hand and they you know torque them down okay so I just wanted to do a quick walk around and show you what the cradle looks like reinstalled all the bolts they put back together I went into a pretty good detail when I was taking this apart so I took it apart I went into a little more detail putting it back together is the exact same thing in Reverse here I'm just giving you a little walk around to show you what it looks like and the bolts that went into putting it back together there's still a plastic skid plate here I need to put back on but this is what it looks like all nice and back together okay so the next thing I'm going to do is add some transmission fluid now if you have a dipstick or a fill port your the clear use those but General Motors in their infinite wisdom decided not to include one in this car so we're going to be a little creative and take out this sensor right here the big socket and add it through the center hole okay so now we can put this in there and then start pumping our transmission fluid until it comes out of that whole thing differential okay a certain come out just a little bit so we know we're full and now we can replace that sensor that we removed earlier that wasn't on there super tight so don't perfect and then we can replace the electrical connector and there we go okay so now we can replace the bottom half of the battery box that has the ECM attached to it that just kind of sits in there and we can bolt that in place there we go okay so the next thing we need to do is plug the ECM back in we're gonna do this before we put the battery in so we these go on as you push them like this and as this arms hurt you at all starts to actuate you can pull it down there we go and now we can replace the battery and your replace when you are replacing a battery in general make sure the negative terminal is out in a way so it doesn't accidentally touch and then we can replace the positive terminal first yeah absolutely now we can replace the battery securing device it's a little strapped here and then it has a bolt that secures into the battery cradle there we go that's pretty good well the next thing I'm gonna do because this battery is in a little bit of rough shape is clean up the battery terminals a little bit first [Applause] okay and then we can tighten this positive terminal up it's a 10 millimeter case you forgot it's okay I was kind of at the beginning of the video and I'm quite sure this is gonna be a long one but that's okay there's no way around this is not being a long job there we go that's looking pretty good so when you're reattaching a negative battery terminal cable you want to touch it and see if sparks come off because if it does take it away because sparks can cause the battery to explode okay we're good everything's perfect and we can tighten this back on okay so I'm down here at the clutch pedal now there is no like bleeding procedure the air bubbles kind of come out on their own what we want to do is push down on the clutch slowly and let it come back up slowly Mouse not as quite as slows like you would do for a break but you want to do a kind of a rhythm until you get a clutch pedal which I can already feel this one is coming back and there we go it is starting to get very firm so I know the clutch is back so at this juncture we can set the driver's seat and put it into gear if it cannot go into gear you messed up somewhere and it needs to come apart but as you can hear mine's going in all the gears which is yay me so if you can't go into gear you messed up somewhere it needs to come back apart but if you can go into gear jobs all done so that's how to replace the clutch in a front-wheel drive front engine vehicle thank you so much for watching if you have any questions you can visit our website to car pros comm and ask a question there for absolutely free and an expert will be along shortly to help you thanks again for watching make sure you subscribe ring the notification bell and I'll see you next time

Channel: 2CarPros

Views: 170,880

Rating: 4.7441688 out of 5

Keywords: Car, Repair, Tutorial, How, To, diy, 2carpros.com, Do, It, Yourself

Id: 6N6b5F2ChyE

Length: 60min 55sec (3655 seconds)

Published: Sat Jul 21 2018