How to Print Thin Wall - Planeprint | Big Bobber

hey everybody welcome back to my channel today i got a really cool airplane sitting on the workbench uh this is a big bobber from plainprint.com uh so today the first step in building this is to print out all these parts so it's definitely one of the more challenging parts after you have all the pieces printed out it has really easy step-by-step directions and i'll be uploading some videos to my youtube channel of how i actually assemble this and then it just glues together really easy but the first thing we're going to do is print all this out if you're trying to 3d print your own airplane the most difficult part is getting a perfect thin wall print so today i'm going to take you guys along and show you step by step how i get a perfect thin wall print today i'm going to be using cura as a cutting software go ahead and go to ultimaker website hover over the software tab click on cura download it for free and select the operating system then go to the plain parent website click on the print tab scroll at the bottom and select the wing test download and download the stl file and then we can import that stl file into our cura software once we have it into our cure software go ahead and hit preview and then on the top right corner you hit that little pencil marker and then we'll go to the custom tab and we'll select draft and that's a 0.2 millimeter once we have that selected go back to the plain print website and look at the grid just above that wing test part and we're going to use that grid to fill out the settings in kira for our surface profile three so we'll set quantity 2.5 we'll set shell layer to one we'll set in fill to zero we'll set our temperatures just for right now we'll set them at 230 for all the temperatures and we'll go back and adjust that as we need to and enable retractions is selected on for now we're going to go ahead and talk about that in just a minute we'll come back to that material leave that for now speed we'll set that at 100 we'll set wall speeds at 50 and our travel speed and infill at 50 uh cooling we'll set that at 20 for now general supports we'll select that off build plate we'll set that to a skirt we'll do two passes on that and now we'll go down to mesh fixes make sure union overlap volume is unselected and uh special modes we'll set that to surface mode and then just the last thing at the bottom make sure an experimental is at the middle and then we'll go ahead and create a new file so we'll just uh hit create and we'll do p3 surface click ok ok now that we have profile 3 set up in our cure we're ready to print our first test piece but wait there's a few more settings that we need to adjust before we can actually print this piece out one of the most important things to printing thin wall is to having the correct retraction settings so in order to set up the correct retraction settings we're going to do one thing before we do a actual piece of wing we're actually going to set up a stringing test and that will allow us to get our retraction settings our priming settings and our temperature a lot closer to what should be before we can actually print our first wing so let's go ahead and do that first we'll go back into our gear settings and import a stringing test you can download these for free off at thingiverse and then we'll go into special modes and select that back into normal and we'll go in the shell we'll set the top layer to zero and the bottom layer three and we can leave these where that once we put it back into service mode it won't matter where your top bottom layers are set at now go into build plate adhesion and we'll just turn that off for now for this test now you're all ready for the stringing test and we're also going to turn enable retractions off just for this first piece just to show you guys what it looks like and i'll save that i'll be using a jg maker magic to print all this out and i'll use a roll of yellow e sun pla and we'll go ahead and print this the first piece you can see here definitely needs a lot of adjustment the first test the main problem is just way too hot so i turn the temperature down to 220 and then it needs a cooling for this small of the print so i turn that up to 100 and we'll turn that back off once you do the wing test but we'll try that for now this is number two looks a lot better still have retraction turned off so once we turn the retraction on that'll fix a lot of the stringing so that's what we'll do in the next one so here we'll enable retraction the standard settings it comes with is 5 and then 50 on the speed and zero prime and we'll adjust that later so and then we're gonna also we're having some problems with the flow so we're gonna adjust that by five percent here's number three it's looking a little better there's still some holes in it and we saw some stringing problems so here's the z seam right here just after the z seam it's really hard to see here but there's a little bit of holes right after the z seam so that's caused from a priming issue and then there's still some larger holes in the piece and that's from flow issues and all the string is caused from a little bit of retraction so we're going to adjust that also and there's still some distortion in the actual cylinder itself and that's from too much heat so we're going to turn the heat down to 215 we're going to increase retraction by one and then we're going to add 0.2 millimeters of prime so go ahead and throw that on the printer and try that as you can see here this one's looking a lot better there's still a few holes uh in the cylinders and there is still quite a bit of stringing happening one of the major things of the string for this one is the z seam location there's these two locations on the right side so we're having stringing coming from one direction and not the other so we can fix that by adding the z seam to the back of the cylinders and that will fix a lot of the string so we can do that by going to the z seam location and we're going to change it from sharper sharpest corner to back and then that once you hit the play button here and slow it down it'll actually start in the back move around and then go to the other back on the other cylinder and move the other side okay then we'll go to material we're going to decrease temperature another five degrees to help with the cylinders the shape of the cylinder is still a little distorted uh the traction seems okay we're selling a little bit of holes in the cylinder so we're going to increase the prime by point two and we'll go ahead and go out on the ground so here you can see it's looking a lot better the cylinders are nice and circular all the way up and there's no sub extrusion within the cylinders and the stringing looks pretty good there's still a little bit of stringing but we can uh leave that for now there's a lot more adjustments that need to be done in the wing test part so we want to get on to that okay now that we have our retraction stage a little bit more dialed in with our stringing test we're ready to move on to the wing test part for the wing test part we're still going to be using p3 surface we're just going to make a couple adjustments to get it back to where it should be for the test wing so we're going to import the wing go back into preview we're going to turn cooling down to 10 for right now and we're going to turn the service mode back on and then we'll also add a skirt back to the build adhesion and then we'll align the z seam to the back right okay after our first piece that we tested out we've got quite a few different issues to cover so the first one is these lines here as you can see here as it's printing the outside wall and it goes to move to print the inner rib section it will print the inner rib section and then it moves to the outside of the wall to go to the next part to print this is caused from a setting and cure called combing so in kira under the travels tab there's a mode called combing mode and it's set to all right now we're going to go ahead and turn this off it will prevent the extruder from moving to the outside of the wing before it moves to the next part to print so that will fix all these problems on the outside and i have another example here that has some more signs of this combi mode being on or set to all so we're going to go ahead and turn that off and that will hopefully make the outside nice and smooth now there's a lot of other issues going on here so one of the big ones here is you can see right here there's a lot of sub extrusion going on so the z seam is right here on this back edge and right after the z seam there's holes all along that that's caused from a priming issue so we definitely need to increase our priming amount so some good things we have going on with this that we figured out with the stringing test is we have very minimal stringing going on on the inside of the wing which is good another good thing is we have pretty good layer adhesion so if you move this wing there's quite a bit of you know strength and actual layer adhesion so our temperatures are pretty good so those things we can leave alone we're going to go ahead and fix priming and combing for this next test we already turned the combing off so now we're just going to add 0.2 to our prime amount so as you can see here we don't have any more lines on the outside of the wall of the wing so it's nice and smooth all the way around still some more issues though we solved this stringing and we have sub extrusion after the z seam which is caused by priming so we do want to add more prime amount to our settings but first we're going to actually increase our flow rate because we're having very thin inner wall structure for the ribs so we want to increase our flow to make the piece a little bit stronger and the walls a little thicker and then once we have that set up we'll check for how much prime we still need flow rate definitely made the piece a lot stronger the inner rib section doesn't bend as bad as the first piece did and there's still good layer nation we're still having some sub extrusion here just after the plane print logo and on the back so we're going to increase our prime amount and we're also going to slow down the setting just a little bit when you're printing thin wall you definitely want to print at very slow speeds that'll increase the quality of the print quite a bit so we're going to go ahead and reduce from 50 to 40 for all the speeds here once you have profile 3 setup as plane print sets up in their grid you're only going to be working with material speed and cooling those are the only settings that you need to be adjusting in kira so here this is the next piece and it's looking a lot better the outside wall is good we're still having sub extrusion on the ends okay so we just changed the speed and we changed the prime amount the speed helped a little bit the extra prime didn't help too much the next thing that we're going to do is we're going to actually increase the speed at which the actual filament is retracted so right now we have it set at 50 we're going to increase that to 80. what that's going to do is it's going to move our nozzle from its last print location to its next print location quicker which is going to have less negative pressure built up in the bowden tube so that way when it moves to its next location to print there'll be a little bit of pressure still in the tube to actually have more filament come out making this adjustment we're going to reduce the prime amount by 0.2 and we're also going to increase our cooling temperature we want to increase that to 20. [Music] okay not a whole lot's changed on this one it's a little bit better quality slowing it down so we're gonna actually slow it down a little bit more for the next piece and we're also gonna change our retraction settings down a little bit we're gonna change it to five and we're gonna change our speed down to thirty now you can see here the shell is looking pretty good there's not any holes on the outside just in the z seam location and the inside looks really good there's no stringing or anything going on inside because of the sub extrusion after the z seam we're going to increase our prime out a lot more so we're going to increase it to one and we're also going to increase our flow rate by one percent because we're having slight little bit of sub extrusion in the wall there's slight tiny little holes so for the next two pieces i have problem with the fan settings so on the top here we're starting to print that overhang of the wing it's warping a little bit and then the nozzle catches it so to fix this i'm going to increase the fan settings for the first one i increase it just a little bit to 40 and then it's still caught on number eight piece caught twice actually for this one so i'm going to increase it to 80 and then that fixes it ultimately to come out with a perfect print one thing i'm not making a lot of adjustments with is the temperature most time when i print thin wall i usually print around 220 to 225 for some reason this pla that i'm using requires to be printed a lot lower temperature and i'm printing all these pieces at 210. i figured this temperature out by using the stringing test if you can print those thin wall cylinders all the way up to the top you can really figure out what your temperature settings to be okay now we have the settings all dialed in this is a perfect wing test unfortunately i had all these settings all figured out in my computer and then my computer updated overnight and it deleted all my cure settings and all my profiles i had set up for plain print so i had to go back through and figure out all the settings again and reset up all the profiles and so this is the process i did to get the perfect settings again uh it made it take a little longer just for you guys to make sure that you guys can see the progression uh through each setting rather than me changing a lot of settings at one time i do have a few more pieces i do want to show you guys they'll hopefully help you guys out with what you guys are working on and so i've printed out some more test swing pieces with some different color pla all the different plas have a lot of different heat settings and retraction settings and different printers work a lot differently too so i printed all these red pieces out on my jj or a5s for that printer the build volume is a lot larger and the retraction settings are a lot larger so the retraction i used from a5s are around nine for the retraction and about 1.5 for the prime settings and then for my jg magic i have used about five to six on the retraction and somewhere around one to point nine for the prime settings so i'm just going to go through a couple of these for you and just show you uh some problems with some different uh heating settings and combing modes and all that kind of stuff so you guys can look at these and if some of these prints look about like what you guys are working with then you guys can adjust some settings so for this first one uh you can definitely see here that we have combing mode set on so that the nozzle's going to the outside of the wall of the print and it's causing all this lines on the outside of the print and then here we have a lot of build up right at the z seam that's caused from too much priming and then after the z seam we have a lot of holes and because there's so much buildup on the z seam and there's holes after it and it kind of continues through the entire print here that's definitely a temperature issue so we have the temperature set way too high here it's probably about 20 degrees maybe even 25 degrees too warm on this one so as it's laying the pla down it's actually bubbling and it's causing holes in the print so for this one again there's a lot of build up on all the on the z seams and there's a lot of build up in the ribs in the inside of the wing and that's caused from too much prime also and then again we have a heat issue with all the holes within the wing so if the holes are just after the z seam like right after the z seam it's caused from retraction settings it's caused from either having not enough prime or having too much retraction to where it's retracting too much filament and then it's not allowing it to have enough filament to start the next line so in this one there's definitely not that issue there's too much buildup on the z seam so there's we need to reduce the retraction and the prime and we need to increase the flow rate overall through the whole wing and we need to change the temperature settings now all these you can see that there's very minimal stringing within the wing and that's because i do the stringing test before i do the wing test so if there's a lot of stringing inside the wing and there's lots of excess filament inside the wing definitely go back to your stringing test and make sure that you get your streaming settings set up correctly so for this one it's got uh printed this one in white and it has little specks of pla all around the outside that's again from combing the extruder is going to the outside of the wing before it's printing the rest of it and that's causing little dabs of filament all over and then there's holes within the whole piece and this piece is very very thin so definitely the flow rates are too low so we need to increase the flow amounts and that and that increases the amount of pla that's added to the actual wall on each pass and we need to adjust the temperature settings if you're getting holes within the entire piece it's caused from either temperature or flow if you're getting holes right at the z seam it's caused from priming or retraction you need to be careful with adjusting your flow settings because if you increase your flow settings you're going to increase the weight of the airplane so you're adding actually more filament per pass with the nozzle and so you're going to actually increase the weight on plain prints document they have weights of all of the wings and wingtips and all the parts so make sure that you're when you first do your first wing make sure that you weigh it and see that the weight is correct if it's 10 or 20 grams overweight then you have your flow sitting instead of way too high so you need to bring your flow settings down so you want to have just enough flow that it's getting a perfect thin wall print but not too much to where you're increasing the weight too much once you have profile 3 set up for the surface everything else is really easy just go into the plane print grid and fill out all the different settings for the different profiles and then save each profile and at the top of the document on each part it says what profile to print it in and you just select that from kira and print the parts off and there's really no more adjustments that you need to do with that other than the z seam location one that's a little tricky is tpu for tpu just make sure that you have the retraction settings off especially if you have a bowden tube and then turn your flow rates up i usually turn my flow rates about 120 and i have to turn the speed way down for tpu thank you guys so much for watching this video i hope it was helpful spent a lot of times trying to do some different settings and messing up different things to try to show you guys how to adjust your settings for thin wall printing it's a very tedious and very time consuming process each one of these pieces it's you know 30 minute print and it takes you a few minutes for the printer to heat up and everything like that so you're talking like close to an hour for each one of these pieces i mean this can take you a few days a week to even get this perfectly set up if you're not familiar with printing if you're pretty familiar with printing you've done a lot of it it might you might be able to pick it up pretty quickly and hopefully with these tips it helps you guys out a lot let me know if you guys have any questions and thanks for watching

Channel: Troy McMillan

Views: 119,259

Keywords: Rcairplane, rcplanes, caddrawing, 3dprinted, 3dprinter, spektrumrc, diyrc, diyrcplane, 3dprintinglife, ultimakercura, aviation, horizonhobby, jgaurora, jgmaker, rcpilot, pilot, remotecontrol, rc, radiocontrol, aeromodelling, rcflying, Troymcmillan, airplane, howto, howtobuild, fast and easy, brushless, servo, propeller, PLA, plastic, build, planeprint.com, planeprint, bigbobber, bobber, savagebobber, thinwall, troubleshooting, retraction, settings, prime, 3dprintingguide, thinwallholes, sub extrusion, problems, notworking, 3dprintedwing

Id: TZ_-AespXDw

Length: 20min 44sec (1244 seconds)

Published: Mon Sep 28 2020