How To Paint Untamed Beasts - Warhammer Paint Tutorial Warcry Heart Eater

so in just a few days Games Workshop is releasing this new Warhammer Age of sigmar game called war cry so today I'm going to teach you how to paint the untamed beasts so welcome back I'm a male and this is squid more miniatures today I've got untamed beasts champion I just painted up the other day I was lucky enough to get the demo model from my friendly local gaming store fantasy yeah I put a link to their store in the description down below if you're in Europe they have all things Warhammer and hobby so just check out fantasy ax in the description down below and yeah so this is their demo model and this is a fantastic sculpt and today I'm going to show you a lot of techniques you haven't seen before so if there's any video about painting a model where I think you can learn a lot this might be the one because we do wet blending we do skin we do fur I talk about painting bones so there's a lot of things to unpack here so the video is gonna be a bit longer than usual but as I said you're probably gonna want to watch the whole video even if you're not painting this exact warbands but before we start a huge shout out to everyone who commented on the previous videos there's been so much love going on the last few weeks and I just can't thank you enough for that it's just so rewarding to do this when I get all these wonderful comments from you guys if you want to support me even more if you ever buy something on Amazon I have these Amazon affiliate account links again in the description make those your Amazon starting page and whenever you shop something within 30 minutes from going there I get a kickback from Amazon so thanks to everyone who's been doing that I don't want to hold you any longer we're gonna start painting this because this is so much fun and I'll see you afterwards I always start by priming my miniatures black and then spray it with white color from above to kind of highlight where all the lights would be hitting on the miniature there's also make all the details pop so I can see exactly where all the details start and so the first color we're adding is the skin base color and I'm using the Games Workshop bug month glow and when I'm covered the whole skin with this bug month glow we're going to start by adding three more colors to the wet palette I'm using KTM flesh kislev flesh and Vallejo game color pale flesh and one of the main things to make skin look really good is the applying of the highlights is to place them where they should be naturally so I did a discussion about this a bit more on my how to paint orc skin video I linked it in the upper right corner here so if you haven't watched that one check out that video where I talk about the placement of the highlights and the first highlight I add is a mix of bug nose glow and kadian flesh tone I just mix this on the wet palette and it's about 50/50 so when I start adding this highlight I start from the top part of each of the single muscle and then work my way down to about 75% of the muscle and to the chests I added to about maybe 90% of the chest parts so it's just that parts underneath the chests that are not having this first highlight and the second highlight we're adding is a clean kadian flesh tone it's just the caelian flesh tone this time we're applying it in the same way going from the top and working our way down but this time we're not going as far down as we did with the mix of the base paint and Acadian flesh tone we're still applying it to all the muscles but this time maybe we go to 60% of the area you will also see now that I'm painting the skin tone and I'm adding highlights that I'm going to smaller and smaller surface and also centering it on the model so on outer sides like on the sides of his chest I will not have as much highlights as well this way your eye will be drawn more to the center of the model so had a hard time figuring out the name for this guy I chose between the names steve and conan but i really think he looks like a conan so I named him Steve and the third highlight will be a mix of kadian flesh tone and Kislev flesh we're doing the same thing here we're mixing them about 50/50 each and this time we're applying it to an area that's about 40% of each muscle so use a well pointed brush so you have some good control while doing this you can also see that I'm not adding this highlight to any of the muscles underneath his arm because those will be more in shadow and also on the side of him so so to get a better light composition we're only adding it to the center chest part on the ABS [Music] and it shouldn't be talking too much because now I've also started adding the fourth highlight which is a clean kislev flesh and this apply this to smaller and smaller surface and it's time for the fifth highlight and once again we're adding the brighter color mixing it 5050 with the one we had before keep it up flesh and pale flesh and now we're using such a small surface is about 20% to the muscle area and just centering it more and more towards the center of the chest in a smaller surface area that I'm painting I tend to go more towards stippling instead of drawing the brush this way I feel like I get more control and once this pale flesh Kislev flesh mix is added I am starting with final highlight which is just a clean pale flesh and this one is more just like a top-line adding to like 10% of the muscle areas just like the final top just to give that extra highlight punch and if you're not painting for a painting competition there's a lot of things you can do to speed up your process the most important things on a miniature is the base the skin tone and the face of course and the weapons so now that we're not painting any of those parts we're going to do a speed process just to finish things in a faster manner so you can get on to playing with these miniatures as fast as possible so for all the leather parts I'm using contrast paints the first one I'm using on the weapon and on his chest leathery part is Gor Granta fur and on his arms I'm doing snakebite leather so instead of having to shade highlight and mid-tone with these details I'm just adding the contrast paints and it's going to look amazing because the most important things are popping and these details look WAY good enough and they're just complementing the most important parts and the quilt covering his junk I'm painting with sag or brown this one was a bit dark so I just added an edge highlight while the contrast paint was still wet using the pale flesh I had on my way but you can use any brighter color just adding this while the contrast is wet we're now adding the metal to the miniatures this time we're doing a true metallic metal I'm using the one Yahoo metal colors gunmetal gray and silver so the base color will be the gunmetal gray and I'm adding this to all the metal parts while this is still wet I'm doing a 50/50 mix of silver and gunmetal gray adding this to the highlighted areas in the same manner as we did with the skin and when this is applied and then adding the third highlight and final highlight of clean silver this one will also be added as an inch highlight to all the edges of the metal parts and now I'm going to teach you three different ways you can paint bone we're using pretty much the same colors for all the different versions but hang on there and I'm going to show you how and the paints I'm adding to the wet palette is Rhine oxide steel ijen Rabb Sandra dust push empty bone and screaming skull so the first thing you're gonna learn is how to paint the bones on his helmet and his weapon I start by basing all of these with a champ t-bone for me this color didn't cover too well so I had to go back two laps to make sure that it covers the whole part all the teeth on his weapon I'm basing with Ryan oxide [Music] in the bone part on his right arm and legs I'm painting with steel ijen drab as the base color and underneath his right arm added some of the Rhine oxide as well to make it look more like it's in shade some of the bone parts kind of blend it together too much so I added a black line in between the bones on his helmet and also between the legs and shin pads on his legs this way I got a little bit better separation between the skin and the bone parts so the first bone technique I'm highlighting is the one I did on his legs and on his right arm so I start by just adding highlights to the upper part of the bone not caring so much of what's underneath just the upper part and the edges start by adding some sand with dust and then going up to shap T bone and finally adding a little bit of the screaming skull and remember when you add these highlights don't add it to ass large surface as the previous highlight go smaller and smaller on the surface that you apply these highlights and the final highlight on this bone is just the screaming skull added as an edge highlight to some of the finest parts and to highlight the top horns on his helmet and the teeth on his weapon we're adding Morton Fang Brown and scragged Brown to the wet palette and when highlighting this we're just adding the darkest Brown in the center and then going with morphing Brown and scrag Brown out to the edges this way we get an effect of it being more worn in the center and then being cleaner on the edge I guess and I didn't do a 50/50 mix of scrag Brown and screaming skull edge highlighting all the teeths and also the top horns on his helmet time to paint the fur and we don't want to do the classical games workshop highlight here we just paint one base layer and then dry brush and add a wash because honestly that's not how fur looks in nature so we start with the darkest part and I'm going to add that to all the edges using rhinox hide and while the paint is still wet on the miniature I'm not cleaning my brush I just start adding some of the more Fang Brown going brighter on the miniature and then adding scrag Brown as a third highlight to this and when doing this you don't need to be careful cleaning the brush between every paint just go with the flow start adding brighter and brighter colors while the paint is still wet on your brush and on the miniature and as a final highlight I'm adding some of the screaming skull to the scrag Brown I'm not adding this with the dry brush or picking up some certain fur parts I'm just doing this dragging my brush sort of doing a large stipple to the fur this way it will look more natural than if I would pick out every single of these sculpted fur parts it's now time for my favorite way of painting bone this doesn't always work in you kind of have to work with the sculpt a bit but I had army painters soft tone to a dry palette this color is kind of thin so I start by adding one layer and then making sure that it dries properly and this is very important because if you don't let it dry it's going to look spotty and really weird when it's dry I just keep adding more and more layers to this until I reach a dark brown feel to the bone parts and if you need to you can add just a small tiny highlight like edge highlighting with screaming skull if you like but to be honest I think this looks really natural and good just as it is so I stapled some rust on some of the metal parts but I'm not going to talk about that now it's time to do the back of his cloak so I'm doing a wet plan once again just adding colors to the wet palette starting with Ryan oxide going to death world forest and highlighting with Elise in green and when doing this you don't need to clean your brush in between every paint you just switch paints on the palette and add them directly onto your miniature this way you will get a smooth blend between the different colors and you don't have to waste a lot of time by cleaning the brush and taking extra care this will look WAY good enough and then just highlight the clock with an inch highlight using 50-50 mix of lesion green and screaming skull I also had small lines of this to the center of the highlight [Music] [Music] we're really close to being done now we're just gonna add some of the war paint on his skin I'm using the green stuff world intensity ink sanguine em red I'm just painting some small arrows on his chest and on his leg and guess what we're done with the miniature and it's a really really nice level to this one but it's still a semi fast process you can easily do this in an evening if you have time even when people pick it up or you watch a photograph of it really close up it's still looking really good and the reason for that is because we spend time on the most important things and if you want to know how I did the base in a few weeks I'm going to post a video it's just gonna be a short tip video on how I did these desert bases so did you guys learn anything let me know in the comment section down below there's a couple of more videos coming up for war cry I'm doing one of the iron golems and some of the creatures and there's also a lot of 40k videos in the works there are a few weeks more away but space wolves is one of them and there's death guards as well in hopes that we'll be doing more base building some more terrain as well because I really like doing that and there's been a lot of painting going on the last few weeks but there's so many things that I want to do so I'm just trying to go through all of it and so if you like this video please hit the subscribe button on this side and as I said leave a comment if you have any questions or if you learned something just let me know whatever and with that said guys thanks so much have a great day bye [Music]

Channel: Squidmar Miniatures

Views: 141,307

Keywords: age of sigmar, paint tutorial, ironjawz, warhammer warcry, warcry, how to paint warcry, miniature painting, how to paint skin, painting warhammer, games workshop age of sigmar, contrast paint, how to paint iron golems, paint dungeons and dragons, warcry games workshop, warhammer age of sigmar, how to paint untamed beasts, warcry untamed beasts, citadel paints, games workshop paints, how to paint warhammer 40k, warcry miniatures, vallejo, painting miniatures, heart eater

Id: 49tJMKDDmZU

Length: 15min 51sec (951 seconds)

Published: Mon Jul 22 2019