HOW TO MAKE YOUR OWN WALL PANELLING - Full Start to Finish Build

[Music] so if you've been watching the channel for any length of time you'll know that i'm a big fan of using paneling the lower third wall is what gets battered the most in a family home whether it's push chairs scooters or washing baskets or anything like that and that's exactly what we're gonna do here we've got a stud wall here plasterboard and it's skimmed it's not being skimmed very well the plaster who did this did a terrible job that's another reason why i want to panel it now some people do you'll see just put their paneling strips onto a wall paint the whole lot and try and pass it off as all wooden paneling and it just never looks quite right unless you've got a really flawless finish on the inside of the panels if it's already had emulsion just doesn't look quite right so the first thing i want to do is put our baseboard onto here or back aboard whatever we're going to call it so i've cut this one ready this is six mil moisture resistant mdf and that's just going to give us that really smooth finish now you'll notice here i put a strip of architrave our lining isn't in the door isn't in this is gonna at some point go through to an extension but for now i need to put this exactly where it is so i know where to stop up to and we can replace this in the future and then down the other end we've already boxed in our heating controls and pipe work and i've come to actually fit this we want to make sure it's nice and level and we'll just put a couple of shims under the bottom so it's not sitting directly on our laminate flooring but i'm happy with that we've got a relatively straight wall but with this six mil it will kind of pull in and follow the contours of the wall and then i've done exactly the same on this side this one i just want to cut a little bit back here we've got this quite fussy little returning on the corner but we'll come back to that [Applause] uh the adhesive is going to be the bit that's doing the work the brads that i've just put in there are just basically holding it in tight to the wall so even just those 18 gauge brads are enough to hold it into the plasterboard um but you could just hand nail it or even screw it remember the top section here we're gonna have a rail we're gonna have skirting board down the bottom and the both ends are gonna be covered so you could almost work out exactly where everything's gonna go and that way you haven't got any holes to fill um but you can you know that you're safe top 85 mil uh the bottom 150 ml or so you can put everything in there but obviously think about where your cables and pipes might be [Music] [Music] [Music] so [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Music] all right now we can move on to the next bit i ran out of the moisture resistant six mil couldn't find any more locally and i wanted to get this done today so i picked up a sheet of the better quality regular stuff and which should be fine everything's off the floor anyway so what we want to do is install our bottom bit first cut to size blue piece of style again we'll lift it up off the floor a little bit this one we definitely want to make sure it's level all of our vertical is going to exact square onto this [Music] so so there's a couple of things to point out the adhesive you use you want to make sure in the past we've tried grip fill and all those sort of adhesives they're fine but when they skin up they stay keep everything proud off the surface they don't squeeze nice and flat and hold it tight so while it doesn't matter quite as much for these um something that's thinner setting either a water-based one or a polymer one like that uh just tends to work much better then when it comes to actually gluing on the strips you can either use a standard wood glue or you can use the same stuff as long as it will push flat so you can see down here even with that polymer adhesive we've still got a nice tight join there um wood glue will obviously work the same way what i want to minimize is the amount of pin holes that we put in the visible sections because it just means more filling we're going to just put the vertical sections in between the two rails in traditional joinery those verticals those styles would go from the bottom of the door or the bottom of the panel right to the top your rails would fit in between those with a mortise and tenon so these are the doors i made last year and i've basically matched the same width rails and styles and while it's hard to make out these are traditionally made hardwood doors so these styles i cut the groove in go all the way to the top but again you can't really see that join anyway if you're gonna have a skirting board along the bottom let me find a bit of skirting normally the way i do it if i am going to put a skirting board along the bottom which i want to do in this room because elsewhere we'll just have the same skirting board but no paneling if i do want to use a molding like this for a skirting board i want to make sure that this height here is the same width as i'm using for all of the rest of the trim so the way i've worked that out is just simply by adding my 85 millimeters to the height of my skirting board then i cut that piece at the bottom the other way you can do it is just have this slightly beyond the top of the skirting board and then just use a little off cut as a packer at the bottom it's easy enough to go this route pennies really so that's going to go on there and then our pre-cut styles will sit like so and then everything will get painted white so i ripped all my strips down yesterday i used a track saw in the past i've used a table saw it doesn't really matter even the circular saw with a guide is really an efficient way to do it just make sure that you've got a decent blade in that's going to leave you with a fine finish because these are actually going to be visible we're not going to be using a trim on the inside like i have done in the past when you're using six mil you just make basically making it look like a shaker door so we'll leave that square and if you haven't got a table saw or a track saw you can still do it you know like i always say it's not about finding excuses about finding a solution so if you can't do it yourself then just buy the strip wood you can buy pine plain strip wood four or six mil thick and just by the width you want it's going to cost more but you don't have to have the tools to do it you can cut down the backboard yourself or you can just go into store and get them to cut down strips of mdf on their big panel saw so i know the top of this is perfectly level i know the bottom trim is perfectly level so theoretically all of the verticals should be the same right we've got a sheet down we're ready for action now first thing to do is to get this top one put on and then we can run the styles in and what i have been doing is running down making the cuts in there the workshop's an absolute mess at the moment so i'm not going to be filming in there now one thing i was thinking about is that adhesive is probably no good for painting um so if you've got anything a bit like silicon it's a disaster for paint so maybe the answer is wood glue for these sections because if you get any smear on here it could be a bit of a nightmare all right now we can test fit this verticals i'll cut these a bit long so we can creep up on the join that's about a millimeter off same there yeah so about half a blade width to nip off those take four shorten those and get them put in so we've got our verticals all cut they're just kind of friction fit in there just for now i've now worked out roughly that i want about this sort of spacing so i'm gonna go for four panels all i need to do then is just take the length of the wall minus five times the width of our verticals and then that will give me and then divide it by four and that will give me these spacings and we can just get everything penciled in once we're happy then it can go on then we can move on to the other wall then we can have lunch and then we can work on skirting [Music] time for the mask let's just work out our spacing so two one seven is our total so two one seven zero minus forty five equals one seven four five five spaces divide that by four equals four three six two five so four three six between we'll work off this thing because this thing's a fixed point it's worth taking the time to get this bit right you don't really want much of a gap there at all because filler in there even if you fill it nicely sand it things change over time and you'll always get something showing up there neither do you want to have it jammed in and bowing out and force it tight so it's worth just sneaking up on the cut you should get to a point where it's just nice and flush friction will hold it in place and you're not forcing it anywhere [Music] oh we got there in the end everything is now as it should be all i need to do is run a 22 and a half degree mitre down the end of this one so we can return it into that architrave everything else is just friction fit so we can now move on to gluing them up both sides are ready what i have spotted is because we use that thicker adhesive gun adhesive this one is probably half a millimeter proud of here shouldn't sound much but when you paint everything it's going to be really visible so it's a bit of a pain um arguably these will stick out the same amount if we use the same adhesive but i think i'm going to move back to wood glue like i've always done in the past and then these will sit a bit tighter on my shoe's growing what is going on it's not easter what are you wearing she found and you can see help little bunny bye [Music] [Applause] [Music] right what i've switched to doing now to make sure what you don't want to do is get glue on something put it up and adjust it and smear and have glue visible so before i even get it on the wall i know where my top mark is just leveling it up and then making a mark that's it side one is done a handful of holes to fill after we've done the undercoat we can leave that to dry now just checking it pulled in tight because what you don't want is any gaps because the paint will crack [Music] [Music] huh [Music] this is the last of the uprights i've put a back cut of 22 and a half degrees here on the end that way we can put another piece in here and return it into here and here and here here here here [Music] now like i was saying this side's a little bit different these two aren't far off these ones and they match up which is the most important thing at the far end after you've gone up the step we were just trying to work out joe and i were looking at and you can either split that into two thin ones we can leave it wider when you're up by it there's nothing to compare to when you're down here it's so far away that perspective makes it look similar to these anyway so we're going to leave it as it is all right next thing to do is put a trim along the top there's a few ways of doing that in the hallway we just use just a normal dado rail if we don't want to stick out too much in the playroom we've done quite a big ledge so you can actually put pictures and stuff on it in this case i've just got a simple pencil round um i guess it's architraved but kind of off the shelf trim and i wanted to see how that fits i think as i thought would be the case i'm gonna have to take maybe 10 15 mil off the back of it just so it doesn't stick out quite so much right now we're on to the really fussy bit for me at least i'm going to take the excursion board along up a few miters over the step and then replicate that on the other side then down here i've kind of messed up with the step i should have kept that laminate a little bit longer so that the nosing could slot over it so i need to rethink that but i'm going to fit it in between our skirting boards so this step up i'm going to go ahead and do now put it together in one piece and then we can work back so i've cut the bits one that takes me to the edge of this step another section to drop me down so i think i'm happy with all this now so you can see i put this extra piece in here to make sure that i've got an 85 mil reveal all the way around it looks a bit odd now but i think once it's painted up that was the best option the other option was to bring a style you know one of the vertical pieces down at this point but then it just didn't really work anyway i'm going to take this down i might just biscuit those two that'll hold it together and we use miter bond as well then we can fit it straight away [Music] wow [Music] so [Music] [Music] right couple of days off to renovate and decorate two bedrooms around the house now we're back on this paneling and hopefully we can get it painted today so i've just finished up the last section of skirting now there's lots of ways to do things like this but where possible i'm always a fan of assembling first uh and then fitting it that way you can make sure the joins are as tight as you want and these ones are just biscuited with wood glue and then this end one here where you see i've just returned it into the door frame uh into the architrave i've just used some miter bond but i'm happy with how all that's fitting so we'll get it out adhesive on fit it in and then we'll start the filling [Music] so [Music] so [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] well there we go that was an exhausting couple of days but we managed to pull it off i will admit that the parts were kind of cut and the backer board had been has been leaning here for about six months but we finally got on and did it there are a few things that i would change and there are a few other options which i probably didn't mention of course you could do all of this in solid wood you could paint it or you could stain it or whatever you want to do there's lots of options and you could also of course go a much more traditional route with proper joinery this is a really straightforward way to do things and really needs minimal tools but it's a quite effective and bespoke way of kind of cladding or paneling different parts of the house both from a both from a kind of practical point of view and also aesthetics now as far as what when to plan and what didn't go to plan the layout worked pretty well of course the walls are different there's a door on this side so what i wanted to do is make sure that the steps were matching either side of the step was uh a kind of mirror image that way when you're coming in you're visually seeing that bit it kind of works from there on on this side of the wall we split it into four nice and straight forward and you know everything's even on this side because it's a different length and also it's kind of well it's got this door for a start the first vertical is almost bang on and so is the second to be fair it's it's a hard one to pick out if you didn't know and but that end like you saw in the video we decided to leave a larger panel now from the experience of doing a couple of other rooms in the house don't necessarily restrict yourself to think every single panel around the room needs to be the same size if you've got a three meter wall and a four meter wall then it makes sense to divide those down equally and the panels might be slightly off but they'll be even along each wall and the eye kind of sees that in a better way rather than trying to carry it around and then end up with a small panel as an infill right at the end in one corner now i've got at least one more coat to go on here and what you saw me do is start off with an mdf sealer that's only really because the cut edges on here we're not putting a trim on the other room we've used 12 mil and every single one has a slightly profile molding in there just to give it a bit more of a raised panel look because we're leaving this edge exposed cut mdf is not ideal for painting so by putting the sealer on then giving it a sound it stayed nice and smooth then i went on with the primer undercoat which is just the normal leyland paint that i use and i spray this brush it roll it it's always my go-to for anything i'm doing woodwork-wise it's it's pretty quick drying um and you can get a relatively flat finish of course if you've seen other projects that i've done usually i use the airless sprayer for woodwork trim and that sort of stuff and it's a super flat finish um and but more on that in a second and then for the finish this time normally i've been using the leyland eggshell the white the porch project behind me used that other bits in the house and and cabinets i've done that route this is the satin which is the same as i've got cabinets in here i rolled this this is this one here and upstairs yesterday i used the air spray sprayed all the rooms skirting boards architraves flawless smooth finish it just it dries so quick that the roller i'm just not happy with the finish so i think i will give this bit of a rub back and then accept that um i might mask up and just give it the final coat really nice fine spray over the lot uh equally it's easier to touch up when it's left like this so it's a bit of a balancing act it i think personally that the sprayed finish when you've got a much smoother finish is easier to keep clean but on the flip side if you've got a scuff and you want to touch it up then you need to load up the little sprayer rather than just coming in with a roller anyway that's just an individual type thing actually in the other room i used an oil-based paint uh years ago and i brushed it and you just get a much more timeless sort of traditional look these panels are quite large but i guess you could still do nice light brush strokes just to give it more of a sort of period look i guess the filling of all the holes that happened were was just a normal two-part i think it's the wrong seal one again super quick and easy i do skim a little bit over these joins and then you can stand it completely smooth right more answers hopefully before people ask the adhesive i use to put it onto the back is just a multi-six just a sticker flex type or seeker product that is super easy to use and really cheap and easily easy to find wood glue i just use this d4 stuff that i already had just make sure that if you're using a weatherproof or outdoor type glue that you wipe off any excess because paint just struggles to take anywhere there so make sure you're wiping off any squeeze out and then you might seen on the joins i was just using not that miter bond loads of brands of this it's just a two parts essentially a super glue like a ca glue and an activator smack the two bits together and you get a really quick easy bond it's not super strong but where you've got little mitres and things it's a super easy way to work without having to worry about clamps or pinning it in and then finally another tool i'm bound to get asked about the nailer and if you're starting out on a renovation and on a minimal tool basis you've got a few bits i would say an 18 gauge nailer is actually a really good purchase it can be a little bit daunting thinking about nail guns and stuff with the diy and it's not necessarily one of your first tools that you pick up but actually if you're doing a full house renovation and you've got things like skirting boards or architraves dado rails picture else it's a really good way of not necessarily there for strength but just giving you either an extra hand because you're working alone and you need to just pin things in place or just holding things until your adhesive is set so um and cladding and things like that just lightweight stuff it's a really good way to go this ryobi nailer is actually in my view a very very decent little tool i don't know any of the other ryobi tools because it's the only one i've ever bought but by all accounts this 18 gauge got quite a good reputation they do a 16 as well and i think a stapler but anyway i will leave a link to those down in the description you can find out uh about those there like i said we've got one more coat to go here but i'm not in an immediate rush to do that it's been a long old week on the decorating front we've managed to decorate and snag three rooms in the house carpet down and move the kids back into those so we've got all new bedrooms there will be a video coming out on that soon and also i've moved to a larger airless sprayer so i actually sprayed oh and i didn't use any rollers or brushes in any of the rooms upstairs so that's something new uh which will be shared in the next week or so once we've got done the editing on those still a fair bit to do here i've got to hang these two little shaker doors for the um engine room the control heating controls sock and things like that and get these walls painted with another final coat it was a bit of messing around up there um just because i wasn't happy with the flat finish or lumpy finish so i've managed to flatten out that wall we'll get that painted and this room will almost be done one day i'll get around to doing overview sort of tour of the house and maybe some floor plans if you haven't watched a channel for that long then you might not know that we're actually in the old garage so the other side of the here is the original stone wall external wall of the house the porch behind me with the green wall that oak porch links from our outside our old outside side door um into that portion of through to here we've got another door to hang actually at the top of this hallway just to isolate the two bits if we ever want to now this uh formed a utility or a raised floor here that i put in a shower room bathroom bit in there and then it goes down into the larger room which is currently the workshop and will soon in the next few weeks become joe's studio so what we've actually gained is three nice size rooms to the house and from what was just literally a tumble down concrete garage with an asbestos roof and it hopefully it's really added a practical part to the house because older houses are not necessarily well thought out for family modern family life so things like no downstairs bathrooms or toilets even in larger houses no kind of space for laundry and things like that so this is what this is all about that's why we like things to be practical and hopefully a little bit designing at the same time so like i said just being able to wipe stuff down and keep everything separate in here is a good option for messy kids and messy husbands anyway there we go if you haven't seen the short and sharp overview video then i will stick it up here along with some other paneling videos if i could find them remember we are full on into our workshop project so that is coming up make sure you subscribe give this video a like if you enjoyed it and any questions i didn't answer stick them down below thanks for watching remember if you can do it yourself and we'll see you next time

Channel: The Restoration Couple

Views: 927,549

Keywords: DIY, Do it yourself, diy panelling, diy wall panelling, diy wall panels, hall, home improvement, how to, how to do wall panelling, mdf, mdf paneling for walls, paneling, panelling on wall, renovation, restoration, shaker panel, wainscoting, wall panel, wall panel design ideas for bedroom, wall panel installation, wall paneling, wall panelling, wall panels fitting, woodworking, diy projects, home office decor, home renovation ideas, diy project, diy wall panelling uk

Id: h53lROh2Kqw

Length: 34min 18sec (2058 seconds)

Published: Sat Feb 20 2021