How to Make these Incredible Wood Plane Shavings - Patience is Recommended

I made these pattern plane shavings a few years ago it's a Japanese craft known as yosegi I also made another pattern not long after and I've been itching to try it again here's the new design which I made in shapr3D I should warn you now that there's a lot of work to end up with just one block but hopefully if I get my plane blade sharp enough I'll get a fair few shavings from it for the contrast I'll use black wattle and regular old pine I've worked out my Dimensions so the first thing I'll do is make a bunch of dowels if I made dowels lengthways that wouldn't work as the end of the dowel would be end grain and I need the ends to be face grain I'll make them with hole saws and I'll do that at three different sizes that's the first size done in the black wattle it only took about 10 minutes so I'll keep going and do the rest of them they're all oversized and need turning down later on so it doesn't matter that they look a bit rough now at this stage and they're actually all pretty quick to make they didn't take too long at all now I'll move on to the next stage which will involve my lathe but not my wood turning one instead I'll use the metal work lathe which will help keep things precise and repeatable I'll be holding the pieces in collet but the biggest dowels are 25mm and the largest collet I have is 20 so the first thing I'll do is turn a tenon on one end of all the bigger pieces I'll use the three jaw Chuck for this operation but I'll be holding the work piece in the collet chuck from then on and that will be far more accurate I'll set a stop to make the process quick and easy while I finish those I'll let you know about my marking knife also known as The Dart which I'm pretty excited about after months of design and revision you can now get your hands on one and for the next little bit if you've purchase The Dart not only will you be able to get the marking knife at a special launch price I've also included 11 of my premium plans as a bonus to say thank you for all the support so make sure to click the link in the description to check out my Pask Makes marking knife and take advantage of the limited time price and bonuses as they won't be available to long and as always thanks for the support that's all the pieces ready to go so now I'll start drilling and fitting them together I'll start by drilling a hole in the dark piece at 23mm and then turn this one down to fit in the outside does need turning down to 25mm but I'll do that later on from now on I can hold all the pieces in the collet chuck but I still need to be careful though the wood is soft and it's still easy enough to mount it slightly crooked I don't have a 23mm forstner bit even though they do exist so I'll just have to drill it out to 20 millimeters and then bore the rest out with a boring bar this fit is the only one I need to do this fo r all the other ones afterwards I have the correct size drill bit for them I drilled them all first so now I can bore them out I got a bit heavy-handed here and there and I blew a few of them out but I got the hole saw back out and I remade a few more spares so they're all done next I need to turn down the pine ones and fit into them I also made a high speed steel cutter which should get a cleaner cut I'm drilling the center for two reasons one for the air to escape when gluing the pine piece into the black wattle and also to help re-center the piece when I mounted in the collet chuck again later on it really is a crazy amount of work and I'm hardly into the project yet but anyway the first pieces are ready to glue I knew the project was a lot of work but I reckon sometimes when you have an idea you just have to see it through and go for it even if it isn't the most productive and I have no idea if this is even going to work but we'll find out I'll trim off the ends then drill them ready for the next dowels I'm using the drill to help center them but the odd hole didn't drill very central in the first place so I should have probably used a thicker drill bit with less flex I'm definitely figuring better ways of doing things on this project even though I'll probably never do it again this time I'm drilling them out with an 18mm forstner bit it's not the best quality but it's the only one I have in this size they came out pretty good and most of them are just about perfect there's the odd one or two that didn't quite come out concentric but these will never be a complete ring so once I split up into sections I think they'll be fine as long as they don't get any worse than that next I need to turn down these plugs and they're almost the right size already they just need a tiny amount taken off to fit them in the high-speed steel cutter is doing a great job and it was definitely worth switching over to I didn't drill a hole for the air to escape I should have done but anyway with the use of clamps it all went together fine I gave up with the idea of using the drill bit to center to them while they're drying I'll start turning down the next pine dowels I turned them in two halves I did the one end first on all pieces then changed the collet and then did the other end now I can get back to the main pieces and trim them and drill them out I'm using a 16 millimeter bit for this which leaves a pretty thin ring again this bit isn't the best but it'll work I do have a set of very good forstner bits but they only go up in five millimeter increments then I have quite a few of them like this one which are handy now and again but they really aren't that good the ones that are less concentric are a bit trickier to do there's not much material to play with and that inner ring is only a millimeter thick so what I am going to do is drill them out on the milling machine where I think I can line it up a bit easier and make finer adjustments and where this all went wrong is I didn't make the tenons long enough in the first place if I'd had done that they would have stayed more concentric and the reason I didn't is I wanted this to be as long as possible which would have meant a thicker block and more plane shavings but in hindsight I should have made the tenon longer this should be a better method but it's adding a lot of work to an already crazy workload it's easier to see where it's going to drill and as the ring is so thin I don't want to drill slightly off and into the pine also the milling machine is far more rigid than the tail stock of the lathe which I reckon introduce some of these errors in the first place that worked well but I still need to turn down the outside of them so I made a guide from scrap aluminum to help line them up I did think about starting the whole project again and use longer tenons which would have made things so much easier but I decided to keep going now I have another problem the end grain on the side of the pieces is blowing out I did think at this point that maybe I should give up the whole project and move on to something else but I decided to try stabilizing the end grain with some thin CA glue the CA glue is dry to touch but while it's fully setting I glued in the next dowels I gave him a quick sand just so I could clearly see the ends to line them up on the lathe it's not perfect but close enough I think I should have probably started again but at least the CA glue worked out one way or another I should end up with patterned block whether I get a good shaving from it is another matter but fingers crossed it works out I also made a few pieces that will be needed for a border later on I drilled the bottom of the main piece as the dowels are getting thinner and a bit weaker so they definitely need the air to escape when pushing them in even though I managed up until now I should have done this when gluing in all of the dowels just the last dowels to go and I have to feed the cutter very slowly and sharpen it regularly as the dowels with the grain orientation were extremely weak and that's the last pieces is going in and I really am super happy about that I'm not sure how this has come across in the video but it's been a huge amount of work and there's still plenty to go next I'll square up one end and then cut them into segments I can just about get the pattern from these segments but I need to use a saw with a thin kerf else there'll be too much waste and they'll end up too small it's a pretty straightforward jig but it works well I brought out my mini workbench just to get a more comfortable work height and I've also been using this anti-fatigue mat throughout the project which my wife bought me and it's fantastic there's one last thing to do to these pieces then hopefully they'll fit together and make the completed pattern they need a couple of scallops cutting into them and I'll do that with a simple jig on the milling machine this was only going to be a test jig but it worked so well I kept using it I'm clamping the piece in with a washer and a screw then drill one hole 10.5mm to the left of center then move the table over and drill the second hole 10.5mm to the right of center I wasn't sure how well this was going to work but it worked perfectly I didn't keep track of time on this project but to give you some idea this task took about three hours I'm nearly ready to glue them together but first I'll quickly make a border out of pine to glue the first row into by the way this is one of my good forstner bits   it's a real pleasure to use and much better than the ones I showed earlier now I can glue it to a piece of plywood which will be the base of the pattern block and keep it stable there's still one thing left to do before gluing in the piece this edge will be trimmed after it's been glued but the opposite edge is where the border pieces that I showed earlier will be used I need to cut them in half and then fit them with a bit of sanding I'm working fast and using Titebond 3 which gives me a bit more time than regular glue before it goes off it didn't take too long though it was about 15 minutes as I'm putting it together I'm liking the pattern I'm honestly not sure whether it's worth all the work though but it really does look very good I left it overnight to dry then next morning trimmed up the edges, the face and the ends it needs a couple of blocks on the ends just to prevent the edges of the pattern tearing out and then we can see whether I can get a good shaving the plane blade needs to be super sharp else this isn't going to happen I've sharpened it to 6000 grit but a higher would be better it's not perfect but I've lowered the blade slightly and I'll try again and by the way it helps to wipe the surface first with a damp rag that's mostly intact and usable but I sharpened the blade again and I got better results the edge with the border segments is a bit weak so I've decided to stabilize it by gluing on a strip I'll then run it through the table saw and trim it back to the thickness of a veneer while that's drying I'll measure the thickness of the shaving with a micrometer thinner would be nicer as it means more shavings but a third of a millimeter isn't too bad and it'll let me get about 70 to 75 shavings from the block gluing on the edge definitely helped and made it more stable, I'm very happy with it I'm not sure how I'm going to use the shavings yet but if you check out my other yosegi videos you can see how I've used them before it was a crazy amount of work but I still enjoyed it hopefully you enjoyed the video too don't forget to check out the marking knives thanks for watching and I'll see you on the next one

Channel: Pask Makes

Views: 436,392

Keywords: paskmakes, pask, pask makes

Id: iVeppD05eyo

Length: 19min 6sec (1146 seconds)

Published: Sun Sep 17 2023