How To Make Spoilboard For Longmill CNC Router (and review) - Garrett Fromme

well hello brother or sister c and seer i am garrett with idc woodcraft and i'd like to welcome you to this video what we're going to be covering in this video is the spoil board for the long mill 30 by 30 cnc router when i upgraded to the long mill i wanted to make sure that i did things right this time i used to work with the bob's cnc e4 and learned a lot from it so my spoil board needed to be just right i needed to make sure i had pass-through capability i wanted the right grids on it and various other things well when i started to get into designing it up i had no idea that it was going to turn into the project that it turned into but that's because i wanted to make sure i had things in place in the beginning unfortunately every level i get to i'm thinking oh i need to add this i need to add that just got to a point where garrett just make the damn spoil board well i did it didn't come out right and that was my fault because when i bolted the long mill to the table i didn't make sure it was square and that posed a little bit of a problem and if you don't put your long mill on the table square it'll run into a problem for you especially when you have to do two-sided jobs which this spoil board is a two-sided job now right now it's just a blank so you're going to get to see it being cut and i'm going to talk to you about all the things i've done to it as i've gone along because i ended up having a scrap spoil board i was able to push the machine through some of its paces i figured i'd just use that board to test it out this is the scrap spoil board that i tested it out on and i've got to tell you i pushed the machine really really hard to do some of this stuff and i've got to say that it performed much better than i expected these drill holes three quarters of an inch deep plunged at 125 inches per minute on a on a spiral drill cycle here's a quick example of some of the pieces i ran it through what you're looking at here is a 3 16 down cutting bit the one i just added to the idc woodcraft store it is doing a spiral plunge drilling cycle the feed rate is 100 inches per minute and it's going three quarters of an inch deep and every rotation of that is one quarter inch so it takes three circles to get down into the material and i cut it like butter the next was to run a really aggressive cut this is a half inch deep slot going at 125 inches per minute well above the recommended feed rate and the bit was driving right through the material the machine was not bogging down at all so between the two the longman was performing exceptionally well with such an aggressive cut and the bit was holding up well too this is a quarter inch deep cut at 125. i was checking the consistency of the swirl and that held up really well this thing did really really good it did stars used to 120 degree v-bit which i'm telling you if you make flags and you're using a 90 degree v-bit dump it after doing this and then doing this with the 120 it's like five times faster than the 90 degree v-bit and here's the 120 actually making a star and you can see that it completed the star in two passes whereas a 90 degree v-bit is going to do it in about five passes this star is a little bit bigger when you typically carve on a flag this 120 degree v-bit is also been added to the idc woodcraft store long wheel didn't have a problem with this carve all right so let's get over to the router and what i'm going to do real quick here is talk to you about how i goofed up on the squaring and how to get it how i got it squared up and then i'm going to talk to you about what i'm going to be doing to create this spoil board now quickly just before i get into this i just want to let you know i got some information at the end that i want to share with you so stick around because you want to hear about some of this all right let's get going so the squaring aspect is really important because if the machine is out of square your project's going to be out of square and it'll jump out at you like night and day if you have a two-sided job with the squaring the length this way from this rail to this rail is fixed by the v wheels that ride on it so when you're back there there's a fixed distance when the gantry comes all the way to the front it's a fixed distance so that's not a big deal it's this way that it will show up if you don't bolt this thing down square and that's exactly what i had what ultimately i had done was this rail was a quarter inch ahead of this rail so this was a quarter inch back and when i flipped the board over i was almost a half inch out of square as far as my drill holes were going so that's a big deal how did i fix the problem and how do you fix the problem well don't fix the problem get it right the first time here's how i did it i took another blank piece of material i got the measure between the two outer feet when the gantry was by the feet and that turned out to be 36.25 dead on you see right here that's butted up against there and right over here it's butted up against there i apologize for the background beeping can't handle can't help that i'm in a store and we are in the back of the store so we have to have the beeper uh so i cut that 36.25 which is what you want to do and then i cut my length was 40 inches long in metrics it's 960 by 1016. now this is a little flexible you can go a little longer if you want the critical thing was making sure that this angle is 90 degrees and that angle is 90 degrees that has to be square because what we're doing is we're using this front edge as the reference line to get this leg and this leg lined up so now i got my feet they are even with the board i've done a test cut to verify i did four little pinholes and they have a known distance of 42 inches apart so it's there and there and there and then i was able to take an eighth inch diameter pin put them in the pin hole run a tape measure across and get my measure to the center of each hole so i am maybe about a thirty second of an inch out i'm very happy with that so when you bolt your long mill down bolt one side down make your board like this and a quarter dead on by 40 slip it in there and then get this side lined up properly and then screw it down and i just want to make a note make sure you screw it down on the inside the outsides are angled and when you do that it'll push whole thing in so you want to get the insides all screwed down first and then use these just to draw the feet down to make sure they're sitting flat now that i've got everything set up i can now start to cut my spoil board now i want to make sure you understand something here that this is oversized about that much will be waist and same on the sides this is spoil board is going to be this the size of the router cut all the way around and i'm going to make a note for you if you want this g code on this spoil board when you assembled your long mill in the instructions they have the anti backlash nuts and you have the m5 socket head cap screw well this screw is going to take up some of your travel on this side going up and moving forward if you want the g-code to the spoil board you need to take this one out and put the set screws in that they provided because that spoil board is written for max travel of this machine all right so let's talk about the spoil board and what it's going to have on it the first thing is locate holes because there's going to be an operation on the on the back side i need to make sure that when i flip it it is located exactly where it's going to be so the reason i need to flip it is because i am putting these rivet nuts into the board and i have to create clearance for the flange of the nut so i have to flip it over to get that little clearance pocket so i'm going to have four locating holes and it's going to be just somewhere out here and that way when i flip it over i can take this bit or anything that's an eighth inch diameter and put it in that hole and that hole or this hole and that'll realign the board the way it needs to be now this is the bit we're going to be doing the first part of the work on this is a 1 8 inch diameter up cutting bit we are using this to drill the locating holes the screw down holes there's going to be 16 screw down holes throughout here we're going to counter bore for those screws the screws i'm going to be using are going to be number eight inch and three quarter inch all-purpose screws the head is going to be counter-bored so that it is out of the way if you want this g-code program for this spoil board then you will have to have the 1 8 diameter up cutting end mill because it is written with this particular bit in mind you can get these bits off of the idc woodcraft store this will be sold as a set two bits and a collet so you have your backup bit now the thing with drilling on a cnc router it does take a special technique so i will shoot a video about that in the future as how to do that again if you want these bits they'll be available on the idc woodcraft store there'll be a link down below so you can order yours let's get to drilling his first sets of holes and then we'll move on to the profile and then we're going to flip it over we're going to do the counter bores for the rivet nuts then we're going to bring it back we're going to do all the grid work so let's rock this out so using the 1 8 up cutting bit the first thing we're doing is cutting the counter bores for the screws that are going to bolt the plate to the table this too is a spiral plunge drilling cycle and we're going a quarter inch deep if you want to drill on a cnc router i strongly recommend that you always use an up cutting bit and a spiral plunge drill if you're going to do a peck drilling cycle i have to teach you how to do that now we are doing the through holes for the screws and you see i'm using a very small spiral to get through it and how fast it's going through it if i was straight plunge drilling it would break the bit at a rate like that without coming out to clear the chips i have videos about this so a little bit of deburring on the project so at this point with the 1 8 up cutting bit we've cut our four locating holes so when i flip the board over i'll be able to locate it and we've cut the screw holes for the all-purpose screws now we're going to get onto the 3 16 down bit and we're going to cut out all the top sides of the rivet nuts and we're going to profile out the spoil board so we've swapped the bit out and this is the 3 16 down cutting bit that i've added to the idc woodcraft store now just so you know that bit is designed so you can go through up to one inch material again we're using this spiral plunge drilling cycle 100 inches per minute i'm always interested in why vectric sets up its tool paths in such funny ways next thing we're doing is going to do the profile cut out of the board itself we are running at 100 inches per minute again at a quarter inch deep and you see the bit is just going right through it now one of the things that i was impressed with right off the bat was long mill was holding up very well on the dimensions throughout this entire project it makes me think of mudding right here right with a jeep when you're doing this type of work with a down cutting bit and you're going that deep you want to make sure you keep the narrow slots clean so now we've got that done we're going to do a little bit of cleanup and sand up the edges side one is done i've cleaned everything up very thoroughly and flip the board over and now i have my locating pins in the board so i can't move the board there's one there and one here and i know i'm in square because i'm straight all the way down and you see there's a little bit of a lift here so there's a little bit of a bow that's in this board that's easy enough to take care of i'm going to clamp it down by using this scrap material it'll just uh clamp right down onto these boards and push it down and i'll hold it in four places and then we're going to go around and do all these little counter bores and then flip it back over now i've got the board clamped down and i'm using the clamps i made these guys here that you can get this on etsy where you can make 21 clamps of your own instead of spending 50 bucks for a set of four you'll have a bunch of wooden ones and the good thing about these is you can run into them and your machine will cut right through it instead of breaking your bit so if you're interested in that g-code program you'll get instructions and the g-code you follow the instructions to start your machine and about an hour later you have clamps so there's a link to this file on etsy down below in the description all right so now we're going to run out the counter bores for the backs of the flange nuts all right so for the most part we're pretty much on we're a little bit off center but that's why make the flange holes just a little bit bigger than needed so now you're going to insert the flange nuts before you turn this thing back over what you do is run a bolt into this backwards and you hammer it down until it doesn't go anymore just like this you have a screw you put it into the back of the nut don't run it all the way through just enough till just comes there and then all you do is just start pounding them in well that took about 15 minutes but now i've got all the rivets pounded in i was too short so i made sure that they were on the most distant area of the router so it'd basically be these two holes when i flip it over all right it's time to flip it over before i put the spoil board back on you can see i went through with all the rivet holes but what i want you to see more is the locating pin that was the first one so that's no good that's the locating pin right there and there's one right there these other holes are for the screw that's going to go through to hold the board down i wanted that hole because typically with the mdf when you run a screw in it gets that little mushroom shape there so i did that to avoid that now it's time for step four surfacing so we're using the one inch surfacing bit we're using a 70 step over with this bit as you should i have quite a few videos regarding surfacing bits one of them is why you have to have this in your cnc router bit arsenal number two is how to design up a spoil board surfacing program using the surfacing bit and number three is how to set up the feeds and speeds for these things links for those videos are down below in the description now the one inch diameter surfacing bit you can get this off the idc woodcraft store as well there's a link for that down below typically i'll surface about a .01 off the board but in this case i'm going up a little bit higher for my zero point being on the surface because i want to shave off as little as absolute possible on this thing so we are going to do a skim cut now this is traveling at 100 inches per second or maybe 120. well i surfaced the spoil board and forgot to turn the camera on don't worry you're not missing much the spoil board has now been surfaced in both directions so what i'm going to do now is seal it with polyurethane i'm going to use the water base now you might be thinking why in the hell would you seal your spoil board i don't know seemed like the right thing to do actually i'm just sealing it against humidity variations i am in a garage and i am exposed to the outdoors a lot because i open the door so when i seal it that'll prevent some of the expansion and contraction that goes on in the mdf i'm going to use a little technique a friend of mine taught me where you take take that use a roller and then i'll take a heat gun and dry it up real quick and then i'll put another coat on take the heat gun dry it up real quick and another coat heat gun dry it up real quick and that'll seal the top of this board and then what i'm going to do is i'm actually going to paint it and then i'll cut the grids in there it's actually really easy to do just pour a little bit of the polyurethane on the board and roll it around until you cover it up and then use your heat gun to dry it out and pour some more on get a good coating on it level it out dry it out and do it once again and now you've sealed the top of your board now just so you know that little technique of using the water-based urethane and taking a heat gun to dry it off and i did it three times took a half an hour and it was dry i could go right into painting it so if you want to like speed up some of your work use the polyurethane that is water-based put multiple coats on it and use your heat gun and then you'll have to sand it down when you're done as you normally would anyway and now it's time to paint the spoil board maybe a little crazy but now it's time to let it dry overnight and we're going to carve it in the morning this is about the final stage of the whole process right now it's carving information on the board it tells about dimensions and where things are located at then it goes into the numbers the grid everything right now that it's doing is text and then we go into the circular part of the grid i added this just because i don't know how i'll use it but it's there and then one of the cooler features is the inch scale it goes along the x and the y axis [Applause] looks like a bullseye and finally the grid itself which is four by four and there it is that's the spoiled uh spoilboard so it has the grid on it an inch scale all the information about the grid is on there how it's built up here and all the dimensions just where everything's placed at this is a four by four grid have all my clamp nuts in here so i am very happy with this there's one spot a little bit low here for some reason i'm not sure why because i was able to use the facing tool on it but inconsequential in this case since it's the far corner of the machine i'll never use that part of the grid next time i would probably laser burn this as opposed to paint it and that my cnc router brother or sister is the spoil board for the long mill cnc router 30 by 30. now don't go away yet we've got to rehash a couple things because i got to make sure you remember this especially if you want this g-code program to make your own spoil board in the same way the program by the way will be available on etsy with instructions so you will know exactly what to do so two things you have to make sure you do is on your anti-backlash nuts all four of them there's one on the z one on the x and two on the y you have to remove the m five by 25 socket head cap screw and put it in the m5 set screw that'll take up or remove this distance that's causing your machine to lose some travel the spoil board is written for max travel and this will be in the way your spoil board program will not run right you also have to remove the vacuum bracket attachment that would be on the side of the spoil board make sure your machine is square very important or when you flip the spoil board over it'll be out of square it'll be out of square when you make it now one of the things i want to ask you if you would please if you are in the market for a cnc router and you decide to get this machine that long mill then i want to ask you to please use the link down below in the description or on my website idcwoodcraft.com what that does is give me a little commission on the sale of the machine and maybe for me helping you you can help me out so if you would that would really be great because i love teaching you anyway okay we got a couple other things we have to cover the clamps don't buy clamps you don't have to you can make your own you have a machine that can make them and i have made a g-code file that's basically plug-and-play where you can make like 21 of these things the reason i did this is because inevitably you're going to run into your clamps and you're going to break a bit it just happens as a partisan scene and if you have a metal clamp you are going to break the bit and you don't want to do that especially when you have a 30 or 40 dollar bit the soft pine clamps the bit will drive right through it like it wasn't even there so that get that g-code file for this down below in the description there's a link to that on the etsy store as well and then we covered a couple other things one is the surfacing bit you have to have a surfacing bit it's just one of those necessities you don't use it that much but when you use it when you need it you need it there's no other bit that's going to replace it and that's used for surfacing your spoil board and fixing botched jobs or smoothing out some wood you have to have this bit this is available on the idc woodcraft store and i have several videos about this how to set it up your feeds and speeds down below in the description of course you can find that information and then we talked about the 120 degree v-bit after i used this i was kind of like i'm not using a 90 anymore on stars on text unless it's really small text this was so so so much faster blew the 90 out of the water so i've got this i call it a little stiffy because i had it short designed it short on purpose so that you have to grab it like that because when you're starting to use wider bits you're going to get vibration if you don't make sure that it's rigid finally if you're brand new to cnc routers or the design work subscribe to this channel because i will teach you step by step everything you need to know i don't do just like average videos where you walk away feeling like you didn't get all the information and you're going video after video after video after video i will walk you through every step of the way and various different things try to give you everything in layman's terms sign up for cnc insiders the link of course is down below cnc insiders is an email list where you will get access to discounts that i'm getting hold of and other information if you want to make money with a cnc router sign up for the cnc entrepreneur's facebook group i form that group with one mission to help us cnc years help each other make money with our cnc machines lastly just want to remind you please use that link if you're going to buy the long mill it helps me tremendously and i'll thank you for it in advance if you felt like you've got something out of this video give me a thumbs up and i'd love a comment and happy cnc i'll talk to you next time

Channel: CNC Routers, Beginners & Beyond - Garrett Fromme

Views: 7,604

Keywords: longmill, longmill cnc router, longmill spoiboard, cnc router spoilboard, spoilboard for longmill, how to make a spoilboard, spoil board, long mill cnc router, longmill review, longmill cnc router review, long mill review, long mill cnc router review, cnc router reviews, longmill cnc router reviews, cnc for beginners, Garrett Fromme, long mill, sienci longmill, sienci long mill, sienci cnc router, longmill cnc, long mill cnc, longmill cnc videos

Id: dbxtLQY26Cw

Length: 27min 26sec (1646 seconds)

Published: Thu Jun 24 2021