How to Make Roll Pin Punches

I'm gonna be making the roll pin punches this is one of the sample once I'd made a little bit different I'm gonna make this tip a little bit shorter or quite a bit shorter actually maybe I think about a hundred thousands I have on the drawing so but I'm gonna be making these I'm gonna try to have time here to make a nice box wooden box to hold them take you over to the bench there I'll show you the drawing and I brought a knurling tool I should say I was able to borrow an Eagle Rock knurling tool from rake anelia and we should show you that real quick I know you've all seen probably with those but they're really nice and I saw I'll be able to do some real nice girls so thanks ray also for helping out with the punches and stuff I'm gonna be doing some roll pin punches so here's a quick drawing what the ones I'm gonna be making and a little dimension chart for each punches I'm gonna make so they're gonna be knurled and I was able to up that's Roscoe for a visit I was able to borrow ray knie Leah's Eagle Rock neural ER I went down visited him yesterday and I was gonna spend like 15 minutes there and I spent four hours there or something like that oh oh he had a good time visiting there and shop and till Monday ended up coming over and he had a little work to do some parts he was working on so we watched him mill and rage did a little filming there and we had a good time down there but anyway so I borrowed I raised Eagle Rock I'll get first hand to try one of these out for the punches it should work out really nice ten times better than what I have so thanks ray for let me borrow this you over here on the lid slay they've got a half-inch call it Phi C call it in and call it closer and stuff these are what I'm gonna make the punches out of this is w1 drill rod these are drops I had for my friend who's a machinist and moved to shop and these are savage material I've already faced off and Center drilled the ends of them all I just you know did did did all that so they're ready to go in there in the truck because I'm only gonna be grabbing about a half an inch on the end here and I should be able to get the punch out of that distance there and I'll have a nub on this end even and we should have enough material there to get the punches out of it's a little bit extra work because they're so short I wish you have a longer piece but I've got plenty of these so that's what we're gonna try to do so this is my Phi C call it I just show you real quick what I've done is you can see inside there I put a depth stop in so it goes in approximately half an inch to hold the stock that way I'm not holding a lot but when I have the forces of cutting and everything pushing your stock basically into your collet it can't slip and fall back on it now we all have a tail stock on there pushing and keeping things tight so we don't have any movement of the stock isn't a good way to deal with a short material that you're only gonna grab a little bit of you know you don't have that full length part of the collet which is you know this much grabbing it so I marked at about a half an inch and it just goes right in against that stop that way I can just lock the collet then you know your live Center can go right in there and have nice pressure on it and as you cut your forces are towards your Chuck towards your spindle and you know have one have a tendency to slip on you or anything my plan is I need an ER all only one point eight five inches but I still need to turn it down so I'm going to turn the whole piece down because all the rest of diameters are smaller than the knurl so I'm going to turn it all down to the knurl size then I'm going to come in and turn down each end but to the next diameter which is 50 thousandths smaller in diameter than the knurl and then I'm going to come in and neural that and then we'll continue on knurling down the other I mean not normally cutting down the other portions we decided to start with the largest largest ones dimension it's going to be 455 so what I'm going to do 455 so I'm going to set my micrometer yeah this is a nice feature of one of these micrometers this one's a minute oh oh and I'm gonna set it to 455 there we go and then zero it out to incur in incremental mode now when I measure something it's going to tell me the difference in diameter right off the bat then I just have to divide that by two for a dial setting so I'm forty four point seven thousand sigh large right now that's 44 and seven tenths so forty four thousand Sarge on it right now so 22 on the dial total and I mean I should be a dimension and then turn this in that 1200 rpm the feed rate ten and a half thousand a couple of touch test and it's go to zero that they're on my dial to go in twelve and then the 9y x cut would only have to be ten home I'll give it a measure actually the you know the knurl is gonna be down this and this area here so we'll just measure there so it's at 25 to go so another 12 and a half half a thousands large five tens so that worked out really nice and so we're good then I'm gonna go down one point eight five inches those are two major marks I need to know right now so I'm gonna turn this diameter down to 0.40 five we'll do the same on the dial it like on the micrometer set at 4.40 five 50 thousands perfect exactly that's well it should be 23 to go oh yeah good fish Yeah right on money only for tents under perfect and will come down and we will do the same on the bottom here welcome back and forth you eight tents over we're good that's good so we're really we're ready to know that we have our full strength pretty much of the material still I got the neuro urn there I loosened it up you know so it's open so I can grow over my piece now just for a note here these girls don't have beveled edges I'm gonna show ya this Nora this is my Merlot I'm gonna show you this you see how those edges are beveled on the knurls all right now having a beveled edge on the knurl allows you to run off the edge of your knurling spot and come back on nicely these ones aren't beveled I know I have a small chamfer there on the end of the worms which helps these ones aren't so I'm not sure how well these are gonna go on there if I run off the knurl we're gonna find out that's gonna work so I've centered the knurl up over the center line of the piece just by eye now I've never used one of these and then instructions are kind of shady a little sketchy but we're gonna put it on there give it a little tension and see how it goes lots of Lube they say what it will keep it flooded with oil like I let it run off the end I want to keep going in the same direction just because of backlash and stuff so cuz if you get even the backlash could screw them up so we'll see how coming back over and roll them back into it like I said cuz I don't know how well these are gonna mash and I didn't really do any practicing oh that looks great that's right a couple just two passes were we're good and I like that let's go a little farther well I that newer works extremely well nice and sharp had to change the Neuros to fighter neural when I brought it from Ray and let me tell you those pins the carbide pins in the knurls they hold the knurls it and they were a bear to get out I mean I was almost didn't change him because they were so hard to get out I had to use the press and stop inaction read on live a lot of people having problems getting those out and me tell you they are a bear so I didn't even put him back in all the way just so I could get him back out again it not so hard yeah that came out really nice I just so you know we use a 33 pitch I and they're all that's kind of fine they're also it's not too hard on your hands and that's uh that looks like it's just perfect I'm gonna turn down a quarter of an inch here down to three 302 take about a hundred thousand off of this 304 and so that I have this diameter reduced because I need to cut a chamfer on the end for the striking end and then the rest of the the very end of the chamfer I'll cut on the other lathe when we check it back up over there for the second operation of getting rid of the end nub and and getting the end chamfer on but we'll do this first chamfer but I need to turn this down well now we'll cut that we'll get set up to cut the little chamfer on the end 15 degree angle they're good I just marked off here there and down here the lengths of the dimensions the first three eighths is going to be a taper this next part is the straight section of the punch and then the very end hundred thousandths will be the nut so I have plenty of room here I have an extra almost quarter of an inch so that's perfect and so what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna go in here and I'm going to turn down the straight portion all the way that that we're going to call for actually I'm gonna turn it out to be close to that and then then I'm gonna come in here and cut my taper down so I get a nice angle on that to blend it and then then I can just go on down and you know do a finish cut pass on there here and I need to take off one hundred five thousand total so we'll take off you know like forty five on the radius there so we're down to close and then we'll do the taper the idea is to get a nice dll paper you know oh man I almost forgot so I hit that with some scotch-brite that's all I did looks beautiful okay so this is my very special rig here I didn't show you I need to do the grooves in the handle so this is 30 thousandths that little tip that's how wide that is let's see here if we can get that and we're gonna go 15 thousands deep with four grooves hundred thousand apart from the end so we're just gonna go on I'm just gonna line that up on the ends this is err dial indicator you know and we'll come over a hundred touch it but our honored listen coming okay there's our little details this is just a high speed steel one I ground and we're done so that's stage one of the punch now I'll do all I'm gonna make all undo all these up to this point then we'll go to the Logan leg and we'll finish them off so there's the first process done actually I just finished this one off so they could show ya what its gonna look like so on to the rest of the other three and we'll give them done well I just saw a cut these ends off on the little bandsaw I machine these ends off and we're good so I so I cut they're that big end off first I'm going to do is I'm gonna clean this end up where we had Center drilled it and put loose chamfer on this end then I'll measure the length and and get the total length right and then we'll make the nub on the end I made a little copper piece of sheet copper to put over the the knurl and holding the six jaw it's I can get a pretty round far as a Consent concentricity goes I can get it pretty good may not be perfect but it's it's awfully close I sometimes I just kind of got it rotated a little bit that's pretty good hey I just Whittle this off it goes pretty fast now put a seven degree chamfer on the end comes up with knife that's pretty good looks nice I need to slip it around up to the other side and just flip it over and then in there first time I clean the end up then I'm gonna measure it to do with length oh yeah right right the scribe line yeah good see how it did yeah that's 134 that's good I'm gonna now I'm gonna take the file I'm gonna round that off forget one done punch kind of bright huh there we go you see the little nub okay well uh do the last two and get her done okay I just finished up the four punches these are some of my screw-ups making the punches for what's in your box several knurling screw-ups had several of those this one I was off on the diameter too much so I really screwed this I don't know what happened and another one here actually I was trying to recover a screwed-up knurling one and just make one for myself and these other ones uh different issues but they were still not quite right and I but I was able to recover them so then I could turn him into a roll pin punch for myself so the knurls aren't necessarily the same length things like that you know these aren't all the same diameters the the pimp punch hands are all right but there's other variants other various issues but I was out turning into some punches I torch hardened them up and they'll be very usable punches those are probably gonna go in the trash can okay so there was a bunch of little cutting and platon planing and we've got our top and our bottom for the punches the punches are for would be about the longest they'll be is four and a quarter so did just be sitting right in there alright now we're going to put some holes in it laid out and just kind of punched my hand so I can easily send her up on the holes okay we're all set to do this an inch and a quarter hold it to the corner be using a brad point zero party second stop you okay box is done no I didn't show it all but we got a tag epoxied in the top there proxy still dry it none too little magnets hold it on nice and snaps right in there hopefully the punches will off it since I don't have the punches but I have a couple since I and recovered a couple so you know yeah drop in there this one's a little this one's too long so we'll take that out it doesn't sit over that one but ya know the other ones on the right size so yeah they should all fit won't be full all the way will be a few extra spots but that's okay somebody might want to fill them up

Channel: Randy Richard In The Shop

Views: 9,573

Rating: 4.9188643 out of 5

Keywords: How to make roll pin punches, how to make a roll pin punch, roll pin punches, how to make a punch on a lathe, how to make center punches, how to make pin punches, making a pin punch, making a rool pin punch, making a center punch, gun smith, spring pin, roll pin, gun smith tools, gun smith punches, punch set, roll pin punch, how to build a roll pin punch, punch, ar15, gunsmithing, gunsmithing tools for beginners, gunsmithing tools list, ar15 tools, tools for gunsmithing

Id: hJLtAwwC6bc

Length: 30min 48sec (1848 seconds)

Published: Sat Jun 01 2019