How To Make a SIGNET RING by Hand | Jewellery Making Tutorial

welcome back to the studio my name is Jacob that's the Maya hi hello I have a customer that came to me and said listen I have a bunch of old Bangles 21 karat gold can you believe the 22 karat gold and some other bits and pieces we're going to melt all this together I'm going to lower the carrot to 750 which is 18 karat and we're going to create the Signet ring for the customer's son let me show you how I made this signatory out of some old Bangles giving it some new love uh kind of like a step-by-step process I imagine I guess you could call this a tutorial video stick with us till Ian and I'll show you how we breathe life back into this article I had to take these Bangles and cut them up into smaller pieces I used a Leatherman that's a simple thing that I have on the desk I don't know if other people use Leatherman so I melted it down from 22 karat and 21 carat to 750 because I didn't buy this gold and I want the carrot to be above 18 karat I was a little bit generous and I kept it above 750 or above 18 karat just to make sure that when we send this off to essay which is something that you have to do in the UK that it comes back as an ATM a gold ring as I know that on this size which is going to be a size L it needs to be pretty small but at the same time I know that I've got about a 13 millimeter cushion cut the cushion shape at the top so obviously I need to be slightly wider or you know very successfully on 13 or just over 13 and I need a four millimeter so that I can roll it down to at least very minimal three and a half and I'll explain why if you stay tuned stay tuned and I'll explain exactly why I'm saying what I'm saying okay if you abandon the video at this point you're not going to know that information guys okay stay with us first year was just shy it was 49.9 grams I believe it was or 50 grams that's more than enough to work with I'm wide enough no it's a process of elimination I need to see respect what I want to keep at the center and eliminate the rest first things I'm going to do is I'm going to make some measurements to make sure that I've got my block in the center and I'm also going to have a look at how this is going to taper down towards the bottom I don't want anything less than three and a half or three millimeters on the shank I know that I'm going to take this down for the size that is up to about 1.5 1.6 millimeters thickness and the top I want to keep as thick as possible the reason for that is when you bend it down it's going to bend and I need to extract a flat surface that's going to give me the 13 millimeters from one point to the other that's why it's four millimeters so I'm going to keep the center part as thick as I possibly can but the the band itself needs to tape it down I go into the Rolling Mill press it in bring it out and I can actually see that there's a little line where I've marked it and I run it slowly up to that Mark bring it back if I'm not quite there run it right up to the mark back again turn it around do the same and once you've done this a few times going slowly down you'll find that the greater natural stop for that area then you can just let it roll but remember we're not going to be relying on that particular taper that we've created with the rolling mold we're going to shape it with a hammer don't panic I drew on top of it by by taking my divider from side to side one thing to mention you've got a thick Parts over here and a thick pot over here and you need to determine the length of something like that I'm going to find an average between those two points plus that with the diameter times it by pi and then you have the length that you need it's something that you're going to be hitting and going to be shaping and distorting you need to go slightly smaller a few sides are smaller not just one size but quite a few sizes done because you're going to beat this thing and it's going to size itself up to size l [Music] I typically take a bit of super glue and coat it so that the drawing the pencil drawing doesn't come off however this time I thought hang on you know since we're in this time of exploration and new ideas cloudy said it's a pressed flat on top of it actually worked wonderful he said Goldsmith's Workshop secrets [Music] I went through the process of cutting the shape and regarding that middle section I left the 13 millimeters but it was kind of silly because I should have done the final drawing on it and then done one cut where I've done two cuts so that's a mistake on my side but that's fine we'll show you the mistakes as well foreign [Music] [Music] once I've done this I had a basic idea and I remember we're going to be hammering this we're going to bending filing this so we're working essentially with excess metal we're just eliminating parts that we don't need so we don't need the perfect shape but we do need to respect what we need to keep at the end once we've done this we start bending it got to get it round [Music] you've got the two parts of the ring coming together it typically does that I need to get those two points together so I'll get them to touch at the bottom and now bring a saw blade through bring it sober through bring it together until it becomes tucked once it's tight of course we're going to work with the hardest solder I'm working with 18 karat yellow gold so the choice will be 18 karat yellow gold hard solder I know I want a flat top at the top I can't be rounded it needs to be flat so that's the point where I start flatten it up as much as you possibly can from the top and then once you've created a flat enough area you can start from the edges on the sides here and you can actually Hammer your rounding into their side to create the shape that you're looking for it's so much fun because as you can see by the hammer marks where you actually where the impact is yes keep checking the thickness on the side and then you do it equally on each side and then you're able to then not have to remove so much metal to create the shape that you want with a hammer without even getting close to the filing is incredibly rewarding rewarding it's a lot of fun [Music] also it's quite intimate because it's like a bit like what we were saying in the last video but not the last video the gold carving the 3D carving 3D shapes you get closer to the personality of the metal you start understanding what this the appropriate amount of pressure is that's exactly it a lot of knowledge coming from the back of the camera you're fighting it it's fighting you back you see exactly what's happening in front of you because you actually shaping it you can get it to a point where you almost have the exact shape that you need and then the filing becomes minimal which means minimal losses and you're hardening up the ring as you're going along because now you're sitting with a very compressed material as you're hammering it it's used to the sort of it's used to life it's used to the Hard Knocks of life so it's going to be more resilient in a day-to-day basis for no reason if you've ever made a signature drink or a ring in this kind of shape tag us on Instagram by using the hammer you can get the basic shape and then we start with a fire and this is where the Symmetry comes in train your eyes you're going to look at something and it's you're going to start seeing something that's slightly out of the one side and the other side and there's no reason why it shouldn't be because you've just attacked the thing with a hammer so take your file and make sure that you can get some symmetry into it [Music] take it take it off balance it look at it from side to side look at it from this side this is the time that we get to shape and manipulate this ring this is actually where most of the work goes and and to be honest with you this is like I say this process once it becomes a ring from the hammering right through to this section over here it's gonna it's a Timeless area you don't really realize how much time you're putting into this you sort of go into a dream world it's wonderful [Music] foreign [Music] it's done I've got this ring shape now this is where we're going to stop the video by setting it off to London so that they can put a little stamp on the inside assay offices will probably do us a whole video on that one day thank you very much for watching the video till the end uh demare myself we really appreciate the comments and the views that we are

Channel: Goldsmith's Workshop Secrets

Views: 14,969

Keywords: signet ring, handmade signet ring, how to make a signet ring, making a signet ring, traditional signet ring, mens signet ring, gold signet ring, british traditional jewllery, Handmade jewellery, handmade ring, goldsmithing, goldsmith, goldsmith tutorials, jewellery making tutorials, basic jewellerymaking, highjewellery, highjewelry, traditional british jewellery, sentimental jewellery, how it's made, mens fasion, classic

Id: MDbQpqrxZAg

Length: 9min 12sec (552 seconds)

Published: Sun May 21 2023