How to Make a Leather Satchel - Part 1

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what's up YouTube today is part 1 in a two-part series on a satchel that I've designed obviously it can be used for all sorts of things I made it specifically with my new iPad pro in mind remember that you can find all the patterns and artwork on my website linked in the description down below or actually a link right here as well so check that out once again this video is brought to you by Lonsdale leather check them out in the description of this video I found this amazing piece of leather there for this bag which would never have happened if I hadn't lost five hours of footage I lost a bunch of footage and realized that I had to reshoot the beginning of this video so I had to go get a different piece of leather and this was by far a better choice anyways so I'm very happy with it if you're looking for something similar it's a 5 ounce oil tan it's got some pull up qualities to it so look for those I'm gonna trace everything out with my scratch awl it's really hard to draw with marker on an oil tan so that's an obvious reason why I wouldn't do that and at this point in time I'm not thinking of beveling any of these edges so if you're putting it on with markers a harder task to make sure you get all that marker off in your cuts so obviously I'm gonna put some leather covering on this bag you can use a wider range of thicknesses for this i've got like a four or five ounce going on here i might have preferred a six if i wanted to be perfectly honest but because it's backing to the oil tan it's not that big a deal but just keep that in mind when selecting what you're gonna use for the piece you're carving on also you can see here that i used a sharpie when tracing out this piece instead of the scratch all that I used on the oil tan that's because I almost always bevel Vecchi tan and it takes really well to sharpie so I mixed it up a bit depending on the purpose for awhile I was using these craft tool Pro bevelers and I've decided that they are garbage so I've gone back to the old bevelers that I used to use this is a number two it's pretty good for five ounces about as thin as I would want to use it on but you can use it probably up to ten and it'll do a nice edge for you now I'm just running a stitch groove this will protect your stitches because it nests it in the leather so it's harder to rub against it and guide you with a perfect line for where to stitch and because I haven't used any sorcery in a while oh yeah that was a lot easier than doing it all by hand boom there goes another one and then one more ah well I ran out of juice there so that one doesn't get carved I'm gonna die this with a fiebing's light-brown Pro die and I've been wetting my leather a little bit to help with streaking now fiebing's Pro dies streaks less than your regular guys but it still streaks a bit especially if you're hand painting it I decided to wet this a ton and it really turned out pretty good so just make sure you wet it enough and it's nice and even before you dye it painting with dyes is a bit of a painful process you can see here it kind of looks like garbage you look at all those edges there's some splotches just doesn't look as good as you think it would look but the magic is in your resist and your antique finish and that'll bring everything together and make it look great so don't sweat it too much if it looks a little funny when you're first doing it but you can fix that up once you do a proper resist and a proper antique now it's time to wax up the edges of making smooth by burnishing them there's lots of different burnishing tools I like to show you guys some hand tools in this but I do actually have a burnishing wheel that's on a motor that I use a lot make sure you learn how to burnish well because it's one of those things that I took for granted early on and I didn't really try very hard to burnish things or I just didn't burnish them at all so don't be like me make sure you burnish your edges nice and smooth so they look awesome because it really is those fine details that make your piece stand out from everybody else's for my resist and finish I'm going to use this Angelo's matte finish and my spray gun a spray gun is one of those tools that's next level for changing your leather work and making sure everything is even a lot of you guys will notice that when you put a finish on your project sometimes it's a little streaky so this will fix that once I've put two coats of the resist on I'm using this Eco flow dark brown antique finish to get it into all the little cracks and cuts and really make my tooling pop if you're using an antique gel finish or any antique finish without putting a resist on you're doing it wrong and that's something that I did for many years and I really don't have a good excuse for it once we get the antique finish on both the carved pieces I'm also gonna put it on the uncarved piece to keep the colors all the same and then I'm going to put one more final coat of Angelus on top of all of it to protect it well I think this looks awesome and it's a great example of how if you're painting with dyes and it looks a little funny you can definitely make it look a lot better as soon as you hit it with the right resist and the right antique finish here I'm using a LePage contact cement that I really don't like it just takes forever to dry and set so I'm gonna try and find something else but the glue that I was using seems to have disappeared and I'll let you guys know if I find something adequate again I just don't wanna use anything too toxic I know there's barge and other contact cements and we specifically have a room for dyeing and gluing things but I'd pretty sure that that's a hundred percent failsafe and I'd like to use something that's not going to kill me so obviously I'm flying by the seat of my pants here this isn't a pattern that I had lying around and I'm gonna refine it for hand stitching so when you buy it on my website you will get a pattern specifically designed for people to hand stitch but if you have a sewing machine you can just follow along I'm using this Zhu Q for for one clone I'm using some 207 white thread and I'm just stitching in the groove that I made earlier hopefully there's a few different companies that make this jukey for for one knockoff there's leather machine co cowboy tech so I think there's another one that I'm forgetting so have a look around if you are looking to pick up a sewing machine this one's for a pretty heavy leather I'll put a link in the description somewhere for you guys obviously this is a gigantic purchase but some of you may be at that point where it's time to make that purchase tracing out my pieces of figuring out where they're gonna be for my layout this will all be on the pattern when it's finished but right now as I said before just winging it for anyone curious I'm using a 207 size thread in this machine doesn't really matter it's more of the aesthetic of it hell you could just bypass this whole stitching process and rivet the carved pieces onto the bag that'll look good too I'm sure so because I want to do a cool rolled edge on the flap of my bag and on the front of my bag I'm using sewing machines it'll also speed up the process for me obviously you guys get to see two sewing machines and a bail skiver which is pretty awesome but on the pattern you'll just button your seams together like this holder bag and just hand stitch it together so don't sweat it too much but you get to see some other tools that I have so now I'm gonna cut out some long strips in various widths in order to do the gusset of this bag and to do a rolled edge on this bag I'm going to roll the front of the gusset as well but in the pattern it will be a butted gusset I'm gonna run all these pieces through my bail Sciver to thin the very edge of it so when I stitch it down I can fold it easy to make that rolled edge the gusset for the pattern will be just a budded gusset and so you don't have to worry too much about the thickness of your leather you can use the same thickness here the 5 ounce but if you were to try and roll the edge with this 5 ounce it might be a little thick so if you want to do a rolled edge on a gusset and you don't have a bell skiver like this here you need to buy a little bit thinner material for your gusset look at that isn't that magical that's something I picked up last year I haven't had a bell Sciver until just this year so I don't expect you guys to have a bell skiver and your pattern will plan accordingly here I'm just tracing on the front pouch placement it'll be in the pattern I was winging it so here's that skived edge so I'm sewing it on to this front pocket and then I'm turning it and rolling it around the edge and top stitching it down with my sewing machine the way I'm doing it here if you're going to put some kind of a rolled edge on your piece and your hand stitching this isn't the way you want to do it it'll be a giant pain in the butt I'm going to link a video right here that I did where I rolled the edge and I was hand stitching so you can get an idea of what needs to be done if that's the aesthetic you're going for otherwise the patterns itself will have a butted gusset for the front pocket and for the main gusset of the bag if you're using a sewing machine and your corners are not as gradual as you'd like you can use those pliers there to try and get them exactly where you need to get them before you sew them down I decided not to put a closure on this front pocket I just sewed the flap on so that it's forcing itself to always try and close and I figured that would be enough if it's not I'll add a closure but for now I'm leaving it closure free for easy access when I traced the positioning of this pocket I obviously did it wrong it is on an angle this is just an example of make sure you measure twice cut once or measure twice draw a pattern on once yeah so it's what is that a quarter inch out on the pattern it'll be perfect but since I'm just making the pattern up as I go along here not so perfect here I'm once again sewing down that thinned out piece that I did with the Bell skiver as I go around the entire front of the bag then I'm going to do exactly what I did on the other flap I'm gonna roll it and stitch it a lot of you guys when putting a gusset on you're gonna use little clips and clamps to put it in place make sure that you clamp both the top edges and then you clamp the center and then you work your way around the edge of your bag I'm just trimming these corners because they want to curl up this will keep them flat then we glue it with this crappy glue whether it's bags or pouches it's really easy to put your gusset on cockeyed with a sewing machine so really be on it because otherwise you're gonna have a front that's kind of twisted and it obviously looks like crap so just you know make sure you double check everything and sew it down properly whether well whether it's hand stitch doors with the sewing machine if I was to do this again I might have done this edge a little wider so give me a little more room to screw it up or did not screw it up I should say I didn't screw it up but it was really tight like I could have easily sewn off the edge while sewing through the top so just be aware of that if you have a sewing machine and you're doing this obviously I'm using a jute key 1541 here I'm not using the large Cobra clasp or that I was using before this is a great sewing machine it's pretty powerful and goes through stuff really well my hide wasn't long enough so I'm making an extended piece here that'll go all here on the flap and back I didn't really work out as I hoped but you'll see that now if you're hand stitching this I would glue all of these pieces together and then I would use my chisel punch and punch all my holes with it glue together and I'm just gonna sew the front gusset to the back piece nice and easy really simple make sure you have everything lined up off the start like I said top two sides Center and then around the edge once we've got this done I have plans to do a rolled edge around the flap and around the back I clean it up a bit make sure all the sides are nice I could've done some sanding on it but I was feeling pretty confident going into this next step if you're sewing through a bunch of layers and there is any little bit of play where they're not exactly the same distance you have a good chance of breaking needles or just not getting it in the spot you want to get it into so here nice and easy I'm sewing that gusset with the fin deck all the way around the piece and then I'm gonna glue it and roll it over and sew it again the problem being only the front flap is easy there's not many layers and it's flush almost to the tabletop whereas the back you're gonna have to twist it into place and I was pretty confident that I would be able to do it just fine and spoiler alert that is not the case with the thickness and rolling it around the edge and how I wanted to so it specifically with that sewing machine things were starting to look a little weird in fact they're starting to look a little little weird to me right here when I started to roll the edge on the back of the bag the front was fine but when I rolled it on the back I started to get a little worried about it Here I am stitching around the front no problems it's only one layer of leather wrapped in my rolled edge I've done this before you guys saw me do it when I did the front of the bag so I'm making my way around and I get to the super thick area like right here where I'm starting to move into the back and it's just starting to so oddly I break a couple needles I'm confident that everything's looking good as I move my way around the edge I'm actually I wish I had a wide shot bending the bag so I can get it flush on the tabletop here I'm desperately trying to sew the edge again and I think I've got a pretty good you can use an incredibly sharp knife to pull away the excess while you cut it just be very careful now that looks like garbage look at that that is horrific and I decide that I have to try and fix it so I start tearing that rolled edge off with my stitch remover I guess we'll have to see how things go in the dramatic finale next week thanks for watching everybody you soon as part 2 is available there will be a link right here make sure you hit that like button if you enjoyed the video subscribe for future videos smash that notification button so you don't miss any of my content and until next time keep on being creative in whatever it is you do
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Channel: Dark Horse Workshop
Views: 50,049
Rating: 4.9612188 out of 5
Keywords: Leatherworking, leatherworking projects, leather craft, how to make a leather satchel, how to make a leather bag, making a viking bag, how to make a viking bag, how to make a viking leather satchel, fenrir and tyr, leather satchel pattern, leather bag pattern, how to make an ipad bag, how to make a leather bag for my ipad, leather crafting, how to make a leather bag for your ipad, leather satchel, leather bag, how to make a messenger bag, unintentional asmr, asmr
Id: va_G-1vmaU0
Channel Id: undefined
Length: 16min 43sec (1003 seconds)
Published: Tue Dec 17 2019
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