How To Install Herringbone Flooring [Best Video On Youtube]

hi everyone i'm tony from floyd street and today i'm with connor from hinge flooring services and connor is a flooring expert and today he is going to show us how to fit a herringbone floor and a pacific a very popular one desert oak herringbone connor i don't know if there's anything you want to say or if you want to get straight into it but essentially we need your expertise mate because a lot of customers are buying desert oak flooring and struggling to fit it okay happy to help here tony so uh i think we'll just dive right in yeah let's get on with it much appreciated right let's go firstly we're going to start with our tools so the first tool is our jigsaw or handsaw if you don't have access to a jigsaw we also need a hammer we're going to require tapping block as well a very key part for herringbone installation is being able to mark out the center of your room for installation now we can do this in one of two ways we have the option of a chopped line and a laser level we'll show you both here today uh finally then we are going to need our tri-square which will be used for marking our straight and angled cuts so the first step before we start installing our floor is we need to check our subfloor underneath so we want to do a moisture content jack as well as checking the level of the floor so here we want to check our level now setting down with our straight edge across checking down along to see that we're sitting nice and flat with no major inconsistencies across the subfloor just checking overall level and we're good so guys the first thing we need to start off by doing for our herringbone installation is finding our center point of the room so the easiest way to do that is to take your trusty tape measure and we're going to go from one wall to the other wall now this is the key part we're measuring across the width of the room not the longest part of the room because we want to run the crown and our chevrons down the longest part of the room so we're going to take our short run find our center point and from there we'll mark out our center line and our mark is 5.1 meters across so now we're going to go back and find the center point of our room so having measured our room width at 5.1 meters our halfway mark and i is going to be at 2.55 meters so again now we've moved to the top end of the area that we're installing onto and now we're going to mark once again off the cm wall our 255 mark so find our mark pencil in and now we're ready for chalk line so now we're just going to bring down through our two marks continue our chalk line straight the way down to the bottom of the room pinning it off making sure that we're through both of our marks and it's just a simple case then off pull it nice and taut and snap so what we're going to do is just simply line our laser level to our existing chalk line set in place and we're ready to go [Music] so after installing our underlay what we need to do now is take our stanley knife coming across the line and just cutting back any of our excess so now that we've installed our underlayment next thing to do take our first box get it opened up now with our herringbone floors we have our a boards and our b boards so here we can see our a boards which are clearly marked on the back along with our b boards which are also clearly marked in the back what we're going to do is start off by building our first triangle so we're taking our b boards to our left hand side a boards to our right hand side and we're going to start off by slotting in lock and down make sure we're flush with the top and block and then just continue on until all boards are locked in together [Music] so having put our six boards together what we're going to take now is another one of our b boards which we used on our left hand side and now we're going to lock it in to the upper part of the joint on our a board and this side and this is going to help us for marking out then our first triangle so what we do is we take our level our straight edge we're going to put it to the inner tip point here on this side and the tip point to the outside here level up take your pencil and now we're ready for our first cut so now that we've marked off our triangle we're going to get ready to cut so if we don't have a workbench at home handy thing to use is a couple of the packs of flooring that we're going to be installing and simply we just set our triangle up on top taking our jigsaw in this case so you can also use your hand saw just make sure that we've got enough overhang where we're going to be cutting so we don't end up cutting into any either your workbench or in your packs of flooring and simply what we're doing is just going to follow the line [Music] so that's it our first triangle ready to go now important to remember all these off cuts that we have and this that have come off our first cut we need to set them aside we'll be using them later on so it's time now to put our first cut into place so we're going to slide it up towards the wall and then what we need to do next is we need to install some wedges for expansion so we need to leave between 8 and 10 ml of expansion around the entire perimeter of our floor so we're going to start off with a couple of our spacers now next step is we need to now find the center point of our triangle to start the floor so whenever we're centering off our first triangle to start with the misconception is people assume that this is our center point the tip of our triangle when in fact what we need to do is we need to mark our halfway point off this board which these boards are 100 mil wide so we're looking at the 50 mil mark here then same again we're going to mark from this side of this board being the attenuation here so we need to bring this one out again we're looking at the 50 mil mark to there which we'll mark just there now with those two points marked what we need to do is we need to line up with our laser point here and then again with our laser point into here now it's time to start putting in the rest of our boards the handiest thing we can do is to lay out our b boards on our a boards ahead of ourselves and that way then we can quickly start to install so starting off with our a board this is how it goes in so simply we're just going to slide into place lock our first board in key thing here is to make sure that our joints line up smoothly across this edge now to get those joints properly locked in together we're going to use a tapping block push them together just a quick rub over check to make sure everything's flush if we're not 100 flush again we can just pop that board back up out of place bring it back up to where it should be again lock in top up and we're perfect gonna carry on with our next board knight coming in with our b same process again push down check our joint all good [Applause] top up you want to see the quickest fitter around let's go [Music] so once we get to the top end of our room what we want to do is again we just want to mark off our halfway point at our last board that way then we can run back through our laser line to make sure that we are still level as we can see here we're slightly off so what we need to do now is we need to adjust this line onto that line laser level going straight through and that means we're back on center again so having now got to the top of our room it's time for us to start coming back down the other way so what we're going to do is we're actually going to interchange our boards swap them over so our b boards are now going to be brought over to our right hand side to continue then back down the row again so our a boards as well we can just swap them across out of the way b boards back into play that's important just check to make sure that b boards written on the back we can see that our joint unlocking system then is going to connect back in and allow us to continue on down once again just make sure your joints well locked in together and again run the finger over to make sure that everything is flush [Music] so having locked in our long joint um on this hiring moon floor what we're going to do now is we're going to tap up our short joint at the end and now this is for this particular locking system on these particular laminate herringbones and other herringbones will have other insulation methods to go along with it but we're going to talk about what we have in front of us now so very very simple you can use either your bitter block um or you can also use a pool bar and simply all we want to do is we want to position the blocker bar just at the edge far edge away from our joint and with our hammer we're just going to gently tap up now i make sure that once the joint is closed don't continue to tap on beyond that because what we can do is we can end up kicking the other joints that we've already installed slightly out of line so it's about having that gentle touch whenever we're installing a harness [Music] so now we've finished our row with our b boards we're going to swap back over again back to our a's so uh first board in again just make sure check to see what way your lock system needs to be installed get the first board in make sure those joints are lined up nicely running across and that's us ready to go so once we get to our outside edge we're not going to have enough space there to allow for our tapping block to get in and be able to hammer back so this is whenever we need to pull out our tool bar and very very simple now whenever using the pool bar the key thing is our edge you want it to be sitting down just over the edge of the flooring you don't want it resting on the tongue or the groove so that way we're not going to damage any of the locking system and simple case then place your hand down support the bar and with our hammer then we're just going to simply knock back and again same as before we don't want to overheat as we lock in the joints we just want them to close over lock into place and then move on to the next one so now we're just going to measure out this cut uh so we've went from our a b a we're back to our b board again up this side so we can just gain check along the back so we can see here measuring off that i'm going to need a cut of 72 mil coming off the back our measurement was taken from this point up to the wall our board is going to lock in along this edge so we're taking our measurement from this point up so take out our tape measure again we're going to mark at our 72 mil mark there this is where our tri-score comes in quite handy then because we can do our straight cuts in our 45 degrees we need to look at the angle of our cut so our board is going to come up and then it's going away so this is actually going to be our longest point to the side so make sure that we line up to make the mark away our longest cut and now we're just going to cut the board and install so now we have our board cut and it's just a case now of setting in once again we're looking to make sure that our joint at the back end here is all lined up so a little bit of jigging around and once we're ready then we just drop and give it a wee wiggle just so the joint locks and engages so our next board now cut what we want to do is whereas before we were looking to lock in on the long joint and then tap up just with these 45 degree angles against the wall we tend to find it's a bit easier actually if what we do is we lock in our short end first of all bring up our long end and again then we're going to call in our top bar hammer and just a simple piece of simple easy tap there will be some movement can happen as you go along so just key to keep everything locked in this board on the first cut don't worry it will kick out on you slightly and what we want to do is again just using our top and block on this side and we would normally have our wedges just jammed off to this point and it's just tapping in well our board locks a wee bit of play still in it again drop in top and we are good to go so now we've come to the end of our floor installation and the last thing we want to do is we want to fill these uh triangle voids that we have on the floor so if you remember from our first cut that we did where we created our very first triangle to build our crown and everything off of that if you remember those off cuts we had before and we said make sure not to throw them away we're going to use them later so these are our offcuts and what you'll see is whenever they go inverted onto themselves they actually create the triangle that we're going to need to finish this last space so first thing we need to do is we want to break these apart we're going to join everything back together again so we have our triangle now we just need to make sure our measurements are correct for this area so we're going to do is take our tape measure come across we are 59.8 and we are to this side 59.8 so taking this back to our triangle again measuring off we are 59.8 to this side and we are 59.8 to this side now we've gotten very lucky today with a good setup and a good layout and a nice shape to be working in sometimes these triangles might be slightly off as we said again it's very very you come across a perfectly square room with 90 degree walls to each other there might be some runoff so just make sure take your measurements left side right side translate those measurements across onto our final triangle then we would be able to make our two marks lining them up together using our straight edge draw your line make your cut and then it's a simple case of taking your boards apart and installing them one by one into place [Music] something actually just as a wee fetter's tip if a joint doesn't seem to be locking into place just take a quick check to make sure we haven't just a wee bit of excess wood sometimes it doesn't happen all the time very infrequently but it can happen so if you're wondering why joints is not going to gather that's part of the reason why now as you can see easy quick lock in i'm going to take our pull bar locked into place and then our final piece we'll be able to set in pover again and that's how it's done right connor that looks wonderful mate thank you very much you made that look very easy i'd imagine it's not good when you're actually doing it no it can be a wee bit more uh time consuming than the area we fitted here today but um if people just follow these simple straightforward steps should be able to do it not a problem sounds good any uh any top tips anything like that anything in pacific they need to do for example if they're going through a doorway or going into a hallway or anything like that or essentially like the the fundamentals are the same wherever you're fitting it essentially fundamentals stay fairly similar throughout uh all areas and spaces key things are make sure you plenty of expansion around your floor and in doorways it is recommended that we do put brakes in doorways that's right um and uh making sure that our subfloor preparations are done in advance so that we have no issues coming back on the floor make sense that's a good point you made actually the doorways so we get a lot of customers that want to follow the fruit into different areas of the house without having a separation at the door so i know it is recommended to you know make that cut and do put a threshold through but just between me and you if you didn't want to do that because you wanted to have that you know throughout look can you do it is it okay to do it when is it really not okay to do it the the simple answer is yes you can do it and i have done it before as well for customers who have asked the question and what we always recommend to a customer on on completing the job and leaving the job is we would say to them like make sure to keep an eye on those areas in the doorway because when the floor expands or it tries to move on itself in that doorway it's the first place where it's actually going to catch itself if there's not enough room for expansion and the other big factor that comes into play is the climates between the two different areas so if we have a room that um doesn't get used that often and maybe you have your radiator switched off in that room and connected to a room that is a heavy traffic area with a lot of heat going through it it means the two floors are the same floor connected is going to want to act differently in two different areas i understand so that would be the the things to be thinking about whenever you're looking to actually flow a floor through from one room to the next that's right like yourself as well we've we've done that for customers too or we have customers that have done that and also ran into problems and am i right to thinking that if you ever do that and do run into a problem where your floor is moving around and it's it's causing problems can you afterwards then just make a cut down the middle of the road make that expansion and just put a threshold on after we can indeed um it's a simple relief cut that we can make between the two floors and then separating them off so they can move freely off each other cool wonderful and one last one mate i just want to make it pointy there you cannot put a keychain on top of this floor or any floating floor can you or anything that is fixed to the ground or definitely definitely definitely not good keep it away from it let us set your fitters just so you know it's an industry standard keep them off it keep them and if you get your customer to do that they will lose the warranty of their floor so if a problem does occur then essentially we're in a position where we can't help as much as we want to um so yeah follow follow the rules and regulations as much as we can things like the door obviously it's an easy fix afterwards if need be um hopefully nine out of ten times it always kind of works out and it does look a lot better so you know we do sometimes have leeways with these things but you know having a kitchen on top of a floating floor it's just something that is due to cause a problem at some point or another um connor much appreciated mate it's been a pleasure um i know we're gonna make some more videos together as well but yeah it's been fun brilliant thank you [Music]

Channel: Floor Street

Views: 187,265

Keywords: herringboneflooring, flooring, howroinstallflooring, diy, iliketomakestuff

Id: u9sfIfKycNk

Length: 21min 41sec (1301 seconds)

Published: Sun Jul 03 2022