How to install a internally routed dropper post, Command Post.

today we'll be working on the specialized command post but a lot of this will transfer over to different brands anything is getting you a correct measurement over here disconnecting your cable make an appropriate it's cut connecting it back you'll see that a lot of this stuff can can transfer over if it's not exactly the same put it into stand other than a repair stand because it can't hold it from their post so if you get something that can hold it from the back wheel or from the crank set if you got the type of a hollow spindle it had to be great so we're gonna be lifting this topic in the appropriate cuts and adjustments [Music] [Applause] they gave us two different levers we're gonna use the one that's gonna sit like this if it's gonna look like a thumb trigger for like on us a Shimano that's gonna be I think give the best leverage I think we're gonna do clamp so in this case it's a they call it a discreet clamp it's an 11 speed SL XO trigger I guess I don't work for 11 speed trigger SRAM shifter as well so we just want to make sure you get this in right position let's slide this guy off that guy that guy and your grip would go on so so that's gonna sit loose it's gonna be a small bracket right here these two guys are gonna line up you got two holes here to choose from you could have it further closer to the end of the bar or a little further in so I got that guy on backwards so clamps should be facing forward and then this guy is gonna sit just like that so straighten throw a little lock tight on our little clamp right there for the dropper lever a little bit too much you just want a nice thin coat have you wiped a little bit off like FedEx is off definitely have enough we have a lot of it that filled in between the threads don't overdo it so we're just gonna see how we're gonna usually want that sitting something just like that just on the inside of your brakes let me just guys to rotate and we're gonna choose a hole I think I'm gonna choose I'm going to choose to have this running more to the inside towards the stem guys always have issues with my thumb knuckle hitting buttons just no fun especially when you don't want it to you all right so we got that somewhat tight that's got some tension on there so we're gonna go ahead and put a grip on so we can kind of size everything up going like that just out to the ends now I put my grip on he's like to instead of having some handlebar show we're gonna have a little grip overhang and it could just be like two millimeters or so so if this bike falls over we're hitting the nice metal end cap instead of hitting the end of our bar and especially if it's carbon we don't want to pretty much really chip it so just a little bit or if you have a little rubber end caps that's a good thing too and then if you gotten riding on here go ahead and orientate your your your riding or your logo so I need you out there make sure you don't know if you overdo the tightening on this too especially if you're running carbon you don't want to dig in there too much just tighten it a little bit of time then test it TV to do a really hard shift or a twist if it twists on you but also keep in mind if it does twist you might couch up the metal or carbon underneath it so it's a catch-22 but rather have a twist here at home then out on the trail that feels pretty good there so now we can kind of orientate a little better just just real rough we'll go back and do this again you'd like to throw a leg over and do this correctly so we're just gonna kind of do roughly there tighten this bolt up and just slightly snug then we can rotate orientate this guy grip here boom cut that going so that's decent for now if we have to move a little bit we can always go back we're not going to do any major reconstruction and tighten this guy up and just enough to hold it in place alright so here's your dropper housing it's coming out the right side of your head tube going around over to right about here where our lever is the dropper lever so looking pretty good it's not coming conflicting with any other cables we're not intertwining we're not becoming a big spaghetti mess so has its own nice routing right here and you do want that little nice curvature is when you turn your bars you want to make sure that you have enough length this is gonna pull on it you can always go back and reference the derailleur housing adjustment front that's the dropper line right here got a pretty good curve right here coming out and around we definitely can trim some off if we don't let this to loop out so much we could probably push it back in going up to c2 and right about there so kind of as a guide arul we pretend there's a flat ruler right here and we have nothing kind of protruding out this way just basically a flat wall so things are looking good and nothing's come and pass this front brake hose right here so I think this should be enough material so when we do turn to the right there's gonna be enough light where it's not gonna pull the cable that should be good right there so that's looking pretty good the housing cable cutters which works great for this and then I like to use a pic of some type sometime with the little sharp end that says a little hook tool it's going to stick that in there to make sure this is still nice and round it did get squashed too close a lot of times it will stop the cable from coming through now all right so we first have to establish our right or height on this we're gonna extend this out all the way and then we're gonna add on a seat post we're going to install it find out our height and then we're going to tape it tape it off and then we'll be able to pull out measure that distance and be able to cut that excess housing off so we're gonna expand this here there's a little guy right here with the circle we're gonna put something in there maybe like a screwdriver and we're gonna mimic being the cable we're going to pull down now I'm gonna try and pull down slow so this extends slow but that may not be the case it might come out really fast okay so that's fully extended go ahead and try it again to make sure we are at a full extension I'm just pulling this down down like that get this guy extended and then we're gonna go ahead and add a saddle and this is a one bolt right here where I'm loosening it's a five millimeter tool and just unscrewing this so it's bolt to deal with let's see if we can kind of cheat this in we can loosen this up without taking the bolt out completely and so far we can get so this is the back well got some slippery stuff on that stanchion tube so we got the back here we're going this way alright so with the seat posts fully extended we're gonna go ahead and establish height so we're gonna push this back down if I have to pull it out the other end over here hopefully that's not too far so we're gonna find my writer height that full extension and it's kind of gonna guesstimate and it thing's tall snug that up and this guy's a little point a little too high it's loosening it up get that flat horizontal doesn't have to be perfect we're just trying to get a rough setting of my height so then you can hop on the bike hold yourself up on the table so to find good saddle height pedal right side is down at the straight down to the six o'clock position I don't have the proper riding shoes but it's pretty close when I have a slight bend in your knee you don't want to have it fully extended and I think I'm in a pretty good spot right here so I think we're close enough make your proper just mess up or down where we really think you need we're gonna mark it off use a piece of tape here we can go ahead and take this out so this is where we had had us make a measurement you found your proper saddle height with the extension all the way out so you were fully extended so this is all the excess that we're not using so we're gonna make a measurement from the end of our little harness hardware right here all the way to the bottom of your tape right here and I measured mine and it came in at about exactly 7 inches so we're gonna cut seven inches of this housing and that's going to take all that X's out from what we were looking at over near the handlebar alright so now we can make sure we got our seven here make your measurements that's from the end of the ferrule cap yeah it's like we got about seven inches right there so this is the XS loop that we see over at the handlebar this is the stuff that's kind of looking forward it doesn't look that great it's XS so I'm gonna cut that and I'm just gonna use some the housing cable cutters which works great for this and then I like to use a pic of some type something with the little sharp end this has a little hook tool I'm just gonna stick that in there to make sure this is still nice and rounded if it did get squashed closed a lot of times it will stop the cable from coming through [Music] all right going back over to the lever start feeding your cable back through and just do a 2 or 3 inches at a time this way we don't kink the cable if you put a little kink or bend in it all that Bend is gonna do is we're up on the inside and it caused some friction and it's gonna cause resistance when you go to try and use this lever so we're trying to try and keep everything nice and smooth running so now we can go ahead and go ahead and put it back in our little slot here and it's going to seat properly so push that in there grab the other end of the cable just pull gently make sure everything's seated properly right inside went that head to be seated right inside a bit recessed and also make sure this housing the ferrule cap is in there properly sometimes it'll sit on the side and it'll leave you thinking there's there's probably about three or four five six millimeters of space that's there so make sure that seated as well seated here seated here that's good you could even do another little test hold the cable gently hit the lever nice smooth actuation let's go ahead and put a ferrule cap on that slide this cap on if you already cut your cable and your cable is a little bit frayed good give it a twist clockwise see if it'll clean up and then when you fish your arrow cap on or go ahead and twist your ferrule cap in a clockwise motion kind of gently poking prodding if it's really if it's too frayed we're gonna go ahead and cut the tip off so I can get another clean edge but just cut off wood what you need cut that small those guys want to fall all over the floor you got pets you're gonna have to clean that up try and catch it in your hand now we're just gonna try and gently poke and prod and twist clockwise and this was being really challenging alright and try and get that on as tight as you can the tighter the ferrule caps sit no matter if you're doing a brake or hydraulic that's harder they sit the better so anytime you're gonna go actuate and hit those levers it's gonna I mean everything's hooked up it's going to want to push that Farrow cap on tighter and tighter which is a good thing but it also creates some slack in your system so if you can get all the slack out now the better but we can always take care of any slack minor select with some barrel adjusting so from the base the top of this barrel cap we're gonna measure 16 minutes 17 millimeters up so we're measuring from the top of the ferrule cap 17 millimeters right about there and remember when this barrel cap goes on the barrel cap is actually going to be a little fatter so it's going to take up some of those millimeters and I found out the first time so we probably want to shoot a little high maybe we'll measure about 20 millimeters and when we finally do attach this on because we do need to allow space for that little the clamp to clamp on all right so I'm measuring here from the top of the ferrule cap 17 millimeters up I'm actually going to go a little bit higher so I'm going to round it off to 20 because well you'll be able to see this later but once we put that steel silver Barrel on here it's gonna sit a little low so not sure if 17 millimeters is critical but let's see so I'm gonna mark this right there I'm just using that you can if you don't have a marker that's fine I'm just doing this for video purposes but you can put your finger your thumbnail there mark it come back and cut it so now that's about 20 mil but when I go to slide my barrel on here the barrel sits a little bit fat it's gonna take up some space and this is what I did the first time and I measured 17 exactly I put the barrel down and it actually measured about 14 15 millimeters of space now we need that space so when we go and hit that actuator our thumb lever and push it this is going to go down it's going to do this it's going to pull down come up and down up and down and if we cut a little too short it's only going to go down just a little bit which may not actuate the lever on the post enough and this all makes sense once we you see the finished product so now that you made your mark go ahead and cut I'm gonna use my housing cable cutters and you want something that's gonna cut it nice and sharp nice a clean-cut because we don't want this frayed it off it starts to fray it's gonna be really hard to fish through our little barrel silver silver barrel and careful where you place this we don't to drop it inside okay and if this is unfree just go ahead and give it some twists clockwise and there's no upside down or right side on this just gonna go ahead and install it give it a twist if you need to get it started there we go so it's sitting just like that so pretty much gonna take it all the way up and make it flush with the end of that cable like right about there and then you're going to go ahead and tighten this could be a little challenging especially if you're just working by yourself so if you accept the challenge get yourself some tools so we're using a 2 millimeter on one side 2 millimeter is the screw that's actually screwing in and then we're using a 3 millimeter on the other side just to hold it steady so we're gonna come up all the way flush to the top of this cable also I'm gonna put my thumb here on the top of the cable slide the barrel up till it hits my thumb trying to hold that position so and you're putting just gentle pressure down and hopefully your cable doesn't start sliding down into the housing which mine is so you got to work very careful so to prevent this guy from sliding down I'm gonna put a little pinchy right there all right to make things a little easier so when I'm trying to install that barrel over on the cable by myself I'm pushing down a little bit which is forcing the cable forward so in turn it's actually making the cables coming out right over here so as I push down on the other end this guy's cutting to come out so prevent that from happening I'm gonna push it back in I'm gonna go ahead and put a piece of tape over it and I'm just experimenting see if this helps stronger the tape the better we're not putting a whole lot of pressure here so this little bit of tape should help so I'm gonna go test it here yeah I'm pushing on it and the tapes holding it that's exactly what I need [Music] all right so now when I put a little pressure on this it's going to stay in place it's not going to want to come out the other end so that little piece of tape is helping so this is gonna be helpful because I'm working by myself which a lot of you probably will be slide that guy on so I want this to come up finger on top slide this up let that flush have that barrel adjust have the barrel flush with the cable on top now we're going to be holding that while we're holding this is my tightening side that's my two millimeter it's going to tighten the screw the three millimeter is going to hold this steady this finger is going to come over place it here slide the barrel up make contact now we're flush now we can go ahead and screw in this right side get that flush and this isn't very tight so once I made contact I went ahead and turned it in maybe a half turn we don't over tighten this one doesn't need a lot so now we're flush here we should have hopefully approximately 17 milk go ahead and measure top of the ferrule caps oh yeah I'm about seventeen if I'm eighteen F I'm sixteen I think we're pretty close we probably have a little leeway here but it closer the better and we're good to go so now we can go ahead and reinstall our post alright ready for a reengagement here so we're gonna attach the barrel to this first portion right here closest to the end of the cap here it's designed to slide it in so it's got a slit for the cable so you're gonna have to move this manipulate it how you need to get this on because this is pretty much fixed so I'm gonna turn this and see this direction once you get that barrel in that first slot and this is where it's critical that there's no excess housing sticking up which I have maybe a millimeter sticking out will see if it's going to create a problem such a tight fit here there we go sorry and you get in that weird position but I had to manipulate this to get that on and then as you first get the barrel in and it's going to slide through the slot there straighten it up and then at this point we need to basically activate lever by pulling pressure which is going to allow this Farrow cap to drop down and then we're gonna get right inside this area here so it's not very much maybe like five five six mil so I'm gonna hang on to the cable here or then the housing pull up on the whole post like that activate it and then slide it right in hope it sounds a little nasty make sure you get it in the slot boom get it mounted properly and then we'll go ahead and start pushing it down as you push down you probably have to pull some cable out of the head tube if it doesn't start going out by itself so now we can go back to our set setting and that says we start feeding this down it's going to give us the slack that we need over at the head tube alright so as we start coming down here it's coming down it's a certain portal kind of want to stop it'll get a little stuck so we got to come over here to the front find our housing for that lever and start pulling it gently out of the frame in this case it's on the right side of the head too so as I start pulling that out we're starting to get some slack here and she'd have more space for this guy to go down to my set height so that's good and we'll go ahead and tighten that guy up so I'm just gonna snug it up for now so it won't move go back to that to retighten it and torque it down so now we can come take a look at our housing over here make sure your housing is still inserted into the lever properly and we can like take a look at the the excess loop that we have so here's our dropper lever here's our housing coming around and then back in is a tube so we have a nice loop right here we're not getting all intertwined with our front brake cable or our rear brake hose or our shifter everything looks good there it's got its own line and we're not a bunch of twisted spaghetti looks good from that angle alright so pretty much what we want we're looking at the front of the bike if we're looking at that's the side view coming in we want this pretty flat we don't want one of these housings to be sticking way out here like it was before so this guy right here here's our lever for the dropper post coming out it's actually stopping short of the front brake hose and then we have our rear brake line here and then our derailleur line here so it's going nice clean shot all by itself it's not intertwining looking good there so I'm pretty happy with that and when we go to turn our bars since my lever is on the left side when I go to turn right that's when it wants to pull housing and it's gonna make contact a little bit with the head tube because of that but that's okay as we turn more it has plenty of slack to turn all the way so say the bike does fall over the bike lands like this we have plenty of slack here to not tug and pull on that housing keeping everything intact so everything looks good I'm happy with that so functionality-wise it looks great it's moving perfect and visually it looks great as well we're not sticking out too far but it looks good slight slight round bends are good so now we can go back over to our saddle the seat book seat post clamp and make sure our saddle our nose is straight in line with our top tube for this this torque setting the collar actually has the marking on it and it's set for 5.2 Newton meters so right now I have the Richie tool which is set to 5 Newton meters so that'll get me pretty close if you want you can give it a click and then a smidge over you know he's nose is pointing straight you want to turn this till it clicks and it actually gives a little bit a little bit of free space tells you exactly right your ad so I'm gonna give it that free click it just does the kiss of a little bit more hopefully that should be close to one to five point two and then when you're done you can actually try and turn your saddle nodes like left and right just put a little pressure of course you don't want to harm your post but this is going to ensure that you're not too loose and if you get movement turning it left or right then you know something's wrong and some of those loose down here if you're at your full torque spec then you want to go ahead and use some fiber grip or something that's going to cut down the friction or actually create friction in there so there's a type of paste in there that will create friction in there that way you don't over torque your bolt here but you'll get the grip that you so now we can go ahead and test our system here so the first thing is we're gonna give this a push you want to do it real gently go ahead and do this gently if you there's tons of play in there so like right now there's some loose players just barely touching this so that means I have some slack in there that I need to get rid of and hopefully we can do that with our barrel adjuster so I want pretty much immediate activation let's see what we get anyways so we get a little movement and actually get some good pressure right there so I'm gonna see if it activates it we'll know if it's right now I cannot push it down so there's too much slack in there so we're gonna go to the barrel adjuster we're gonna unscrew it counterclockwise so by unloosen a screw we're actually creating tension this is very similar how we're adjusting our rear derailleur front derailleur or even brakes if we have cable actuated breaks I just gave that about one to three turns and we'll go and try this again again you'll be able to fill this so actually less play at the lever so that's feeling good let's give it a full push and it actually activated that right there so right off the bat we got some functioning so let's see if it goes up all by itself definitely some play again there so I think we're start to as you as you've activate this more you actually start to brake in the system you're tightening everything cables or cable housing is getting tight on the feral cat feral cat that's eating more properly in the lever and into the bottom of the seat driver post so this is pretty normal so we're gonna have to take some more slack out so I'm gonna unscrew it one two three and now I have pretty much no play it moves like maybe a mill so that's very acceptable now we're gonna give it a full push push down great now we're gonna give it a push again make sure it activates that's good so you might have to do this a few times to get all the play out of the system and that's what that barrel adjusters for to do the fine adjustment that's you that's your go to just like on your derailers and on your brakes so I'm gonna go ahead and unscrew again one two so these are probably roughly a quarter to a half turn and try to stick in yeah so looking pretty good now if you find that you got to unloosen your barrel adjuster so much that it maxes out and pretty much you keep the screw will disconnect from your lever and one way to tell that is just to hold the housing and shift it left and right if it moves very easily it's very sloppy then most this screw came out which means you have to come back over here and do everything over pull your seat post out and loosen your little silver barrel pull the slack up and then trim whatever is left just like you would on a brake system all right so after all said and done if you find there's still a little too much play in here like I got that looseness and my barrel adjusters almost extended all the way out we're gonna have to go back and basically repeat what we did before pull your post back up loosen up your little silver barrel and we're gonna have to pull slack again measure 17 millimeter tighten it back up and trim the top of that barrel because when we put it back into the the hardware of the dropper post it runs a very tight fit so we don't can't have much overhang and then you'll be able to work the system much better

Channel: Bike Teacher

Views: 303,778

Keywords: stumpy build, post, dropper, install, dropper post, mtb, mountain bike, how to, specialized, mountain biking, command post, installation, seatpost, set up, seat post, rockshox, dropper seatpost, highline, reverb

Id: 9TiDqjPxicU

Length: 23min 49sec (1429 seconds)

Published: Tue Mar 06 2018