How to Inlay wood and antler into a ring! Easiest method

what's going on everybody we are in my new workshop hopefully we're going to be starting youtube videos on a weekly basis that is the goal that's the plan so we'll see how that works out now today we have something awesome going on we are going to inlay solid wood and solid antler into a one piece ring so we'll bring it in and take a look at what we're looking at alright so a lot of people work with these two piece ring cores and they are really good for beginners and learning how to make rings however there's always a seam in the middle so we're gonna move away from that and go to a whole channel these look really good with no seam and we're going to work with this dyed burl and this antler first thing we do take this pieces to the band saw i'm just getting a width a little bit bigger than the channel itself i will cut the wood square and then second we will do the same thing with the antler once these pieces are done the square piece i just need to round out it'll make working on the lathe a little easier and then with the antler piece the piece i was using is about inch and a half diameter i need it to be about closer to an inch so i'm just making the antler smaller and also more round and with the antler i'm kind of sanding where i want it i know that all the holes in the middle are going to be more black and then the edges are going to be more white so depending on how much color i want is where i was sanding it second thing we will get the diameter of the blue ring or the the channel and then we will just bore out the our pieces from there we're looking for about .15 to 0.2 millimeters bigger than the channel itself so that the piece has enough room to glue and also fit well enough [Music] and the most important part is just don't go too big if you go too big the that's over game over you're gonna have to start a brand new piece and that is very frustrating trust me [Music] i'm gonna do the same thing with the wood ultimately just get 0.2 millimeters or so bigger than the measured circle of the channel in the in the ring and then the next thing that we will come up to is going to be getting the right width now you can do this before you board out or after i think it's a little easier after since there's less material that you have to sand also very important here to not go too far otherwise you're going to have gaps on the edge there is another way of doing this other than the sander we'll probably show that another week but for now i just use the sander it's quick it's easy and you just have to be very careful go go as fast as you're comfortable with because if you go too short you're gonna have to get a new piece again [Music] all right once that width is good i make two little cuts in the piece these are where i'm going to break it it just makes a little easier to break and also make sure it breaks in half so break the antler same thing with the wood the reason we're breaking and not cutting is so that we don't cut any material off and it goes exactly back on and makes a perfect seam with the antler i'm using a black ca glue this is really great because it's going to fill in all of those gaps in the antler and it's going to give us a really cool white and black look to it [Music] and just we're going to make sure we tighten real as hard as we can and then be sure also to dry fit this before you add glue otherwise you'll end up with a gap and again you'll have to start over we don't want that so for the antler i added a little bit more black glue around the edges so that it could fill in those holes as well once we are dry easy enough we are just going to cut down the wood to the core and then at the end here you'll see that i go a little bit past the core or a little bit past the metal with this tool as well and that is giving us space for the finish [Music] i'll come on the inside grab that ledge on the left same thing with the ledge on the right and then once i make those cuts i will test test it with my fingernail and make sure that there is a gap there otherwise the finish will you will be sanding off later if there is no this is a 220 sand paper i'm not going to go any higher than 220. [Music] the reason being is the finish is going to stick to 220 sand better than if i went to 320 or 400 and then also i'm gonna take some acetone to clean out all the dust and also any extra residue after the acetone is just one super thin layer of ca glue with that paper towel that will seal the wood which will help us with a better finish a little bit later on oops [Music] i can't well back to business uh sorry you know sometimes that happens with the ceramic you can't tighten it too much and so sometimes it pops off and that's okay all right we're doing the same thing with the antler we're putting one seal on it and then bring you to the slow rpms where we will finish the finish process so this is spinning about 200 rpms and i just let this go a little bit i do add a little bit of our aerosol accelerator not tons but just enough to help it dry it usually is only about two minutes that it's spinning maybe less [Music] and the goal with this is that you want to be able to see the finish on all parts of the ring go over the metal so that when we go back to it we get a nice even finish that is flush with the metal back when we are on the wood lathe and sanding [Music] all right and we did the same thing with the antler we moved the did the finish the exact same way so i come back here and i'm just using the same carbide tool to cut down the finish and once i am done with the carbide tool i will use either a 220 or a 400 grit depending on how much i have to take off the metal to make sure it's completely flush because we don't want any glue on the metal itself that looks bad you can see it in pictures so we want to take it off the metal completely to get the best look also i am wet sanding i've noticed that wet sanding on this part is the best way to go this is an 800 grit and then i this is a 1 500 grit 1500 grit is the highest i will go with ca glue i don't need to go any higher because the polish will will take care of the rest of the micro scratches and the polish we're using is just a zam polish which we have on our website as well it's just a wax polish stick [Music] [Music] you also can stop the lathe every once in a while maybe after the 220 or the 400 before you move on to make sure that all the glue is off of the metal as you don't want to move on to the next step and waste your time until all the all the glue is off the metal then also we'll use the carbide tool for the edges and also the little chamfer on or the beveled edge on the ring to make sure i get all the glue off oh it looks like i'm using a fabuluster instead of the zam today i must be out of the zam but the fabulouser works just as well uh these do work well also if you do have any glue on the very edges of the ring or even on the bevel if you press hard enough it will eventually get rid of the finish or the glue on the metal it just is a longer process than getting rid of it with the sanding stage and it's just a matter of getting all angles and that also helps get rid of all the micro scratches and gives it that perfect finish that we're looking for so if you do this you you are gonna have a very hard time finding any scene i think the seam is somewhere right there and then we also have seams somewhere right there so hard to see if you do the the break and then on the antler you're not gonna see it on the antler not a chance um i think that might be it but it blends in with the rest of the black so it just looks like a whole piece so check out our website uh shopdreamwood.com we have the blue ceramics we got the dyed burl that we used and thanks for watching hopefully we'll see you guys next week as well thank you

Channel: Dreamwood Rings

Views: 17,064

Keywords: wood, ring, diy, how to, antler, bentwood, inlay, ceramic, tungsten, core, channel, supplies

Id: ZggAZh_xqKk

Length: 12min 6sec (726 seconds)

Published: Fri Sep 10 2021