how to get the perfect hop and shoot lasers

hey guys i wanted to make a small tutorial video on how to get the best setup possible how to make sure that you can make your gun shoot lasers regardless of the combination of parts you have and get rid of the myth that just buying expensive stuff and throwing that in your gun will make your gun shoot lasers i think that if you would put in effort to get everything perfectly aligned even your stock setup will outperform whatever expensive parts you throw together now i'm not saying that aftermarket parts buying aftermarket parts is a waste of money absolutely not i think aftermarket parts make a very very good way of eliminating tolerances by just simply putting more effort on their machining and on their quality control but it doesn't guarantee you that your setup is going to be shooting absolute lasers so what i want to do i just want to take you through setting up your hop-up correctly making sure that your gun is going to shoot as best as it can do with the parts you have and then walk you through some pointers of where i have seen most setups fail now let's start with the barrel i know that this is a magical land where all the myths and the unicorns are flying around let me just put this straight look the barrel has to have certain quality standards and it has to do with the window has to do with the cuts has to do with the fit and making sure that your barrel is absolutely straight lapping it you know putting some treatments on it uh making it shine internally effect a good brass barrel will perform just as good as a pdi and length other than sort of your velocity increase in velocity and efficiency doesn't really add that much down the range so don't feel like you have to buy a pdi or some really expensive barrel just make sure that it is a good cut so make sure that the barrel quality and finish is good so what to look out for when you're buying a barrel the first thing is make sure you have a barrel window which is looking clean and straight so if you look at this is maple leaf 602 for example you can see the indents of where the machinery has milled if you look carefully you can actually also see that those cuts are not straight at the bottom part you can see that that window is sort of curving more towards down where the top one is sitting more straight there are as difficult to show here they did do a sort of a decent job making sure that and here you can see a little bit but that that is all clean the cut itself is not terrible it's not great but i think the biggest problem why this barrel is hot garbage is because the cut is just not centered it's off-center it's not straight and something you cannot see yet is that this cut here on the bottom compared to the c-clip mounts it is off it's just not straight with the window so the first thing we're going to look out for is making sure the barrel is perfectly straight so it rolls perfectly on a flat surface making sure that the cut is straight and clean the cleaner the better and is making sure that the fit of the barrel actually matches that of the hop-up now there's different type of windows different type of window sizes that is important when you match it with a bucking and with a let's say a knob like this the first thing we want to do is make sure that the actual barrel window when mounted sits flush with the hop-up that means it's not too much to the front not too much to the back it's not curved one way or another way and that the c-clip when it's mounted is actually holding together the whole setup without any play now there's different type of c club clips there's ones like this that don't have this cutout in the middle i prefer the ones which sit very snug and do have this ridge on the bottom that really locks in the barrel make sure you always i mean these things don't cost anything right so just get a couple of them get good quality ones and then get one that properly fits your barrel sorry your hop-up and your barrel so let's click this in place and this is now mounted properly i know there's no bucking on it so there will always be some play but what to look out for here is that you don't have play like this so the more snug the better you want it to be absolutely floss flush with no possibility of torquing it to the left or the right so the tighter this is the better and once you had a c-clip that is perfectly fitting your hop-up unit locks in place your barrel it is time to actually look down the barrel and then you immediately see the problem of of this setup is that two parts this window sits a bit too far to the back compared to the hop-up unit so it actually locks it in quite a little bit to the back and that's also the type of cut that the maple leaf barrel has but what is more important is when i center it here when i center it to the c-clip the barrel is actually twisted so you can see the cut out at the side of the barrel of this window where here that cut is actually hidden in the hop-up result of this barrel when mounted is always the same it curves to the left so it applies hop too much here it gets a really angle of the hop-up patch because the hopper patch obviously is also a little bit more here and then it just starts curving to the left and it shows a very irregular let's say pattern of flight so what you really want to look out for is making sure the c-clip and the barrel fit absolutely perfectly you have a barrel which has a very clean cut and most importantly it's straight because this is a whole piece of garbage that belongs only one place and that is the trash bin so we're going to remove this for now i'm just going to take a brass barrel and then move on to the next part so the second thing you want to do is you want to make sure so we've we now have a barrel that fits our hopper right so we have tide we don't have any tolerances we don't have to use sticky tape we don't have to use teflon to shim it but we do want to make sure that we have a bucking which also matches the barrel so every barrel has a certain size of a barrel cut that is how wide it is and also how deep it is cut but not every bucking is designed for the same barrel so always make sure you try a couple of buckings you have a couple of them laying around because they don't always fit perfectly now if you take this example the asg standard mtw barrel and you really look carefully on the maple leaf barrel the first thing you'll notice and i know this thing is not done properly right you see that it's not put on really well but the first thing you see regardless is that the centering nudges and how you call these things they are sitting really far to the front and they are really pushing onto the ridge and it kind of deforms the bucking meaning that there is not enough tension here right this is uh sort of pushed up by this part and it's pushed a bit to the front so this barrel is deforming the maple leaf bucking so this is a maple leaf silicon super marker unbucking it is deforming i've also see i've also mounted it incorrectly because you can see this is not straight that means that i've put too much tension to one part of the bucking so make sure the bucking is on straight and when you're looking at the bucking make sure it's a bucking that actually fits your your window now the easiest buckings to overcome this problem our typical classical ridges they are always more or less in the center of this this barrel window they are smaller than the barrel window they're narrower than the barrel window so these bucklings fit pretty much every single barrel properly going back to this so let's say you want a maple leaf bucking or a bugatti because i think they're much higher quality than the maple leaf ones these type of buckings you choose because they do a great job at centering plus their bigger contact patch also means that they have a more flat and predictable trajectory of flight so there's benefits to these type of buckings the same as the same benefits of having an r hop which is even more extreme but the idea of these is the bigger the patch the more important it is that everything is absolute flush and absolute centered this is why a lot of people struggle with r-hops because even a little bit of offset and your bbs will fly all over the place do it right then they perfectly center and they have a very big contact point which means that they have a lot of range with a very flat trajectory which means it's very predictable where your bbs will land for this movie we'll continue with this bucking so let's assume that we've put on a bucking that fits the barrel properly we've aligned it properly so we didn't put it on cricket like this one we have a perfectly mounted bucking then what we do next is obviously we mount this one so we put the barrel and the bucking in we make sure that we don't use silicon to lube it because that will just sort of keep everything too loose use some spit if you want but make sure you don't twist it so when it's too tough by pushing in the barrel on the bucking you can actually twist the bucking so make sure you have a smooth proper sort of insert of the bucking and barrel into the hop-up unit don't start twisting it don't start pulling it just make it affluent sort of one-time push-in centered at the right place we will lock in place this barrel now and it is so then we have a c-clip that fits we have a barrel that was not hold cardboard we have a bucking that should properly fit the barrel and at that moment when you would look down the barrel you will see a patch that is perfectly centered not too much to the front not too much to the back it's not twisted to the left it's not twisted to the right we have a patch that is centered perfectly in the whole pub window so we're happy if we see this then the next thing we have to do is make sure that we have a hop-up arm and we have a nip or an integrated one like the 1.0 that is perfectly flush as well now what do i mean with perfectly flush that means that when the arm is in there there is no wiggle room not up and down you cannot torque it so you cannot do this it needs to stay perfectly in the hop-up the less movement the tighter it is the better the same is for the hop-up wheel so whenever this is in the hop-up wheel what you don't want to see is that it slowly torques it you don't want to see that there's play whenever you mount the wheel you mount arm this thing should be rock solid we have now gotten ourselves a hop-up arm that is rock solid it perfectly fits our hop-up unit so this is a whole arm that we would be happy with i'm just going to ignore this for a moment then the second part what we need to do is make sure that the placement of this nip holder is actually in the right position so if i take this little pin put it in the arm and i just pretend that i'm gonna mount it we can actually see where that contact would be so where this hop-up arm would contact and then you see something super interesting when we do this combination if you i don't know if it's visible but if you look carefully the placement of the knob in this arm would actually sit too far to the back the triangular concaves like the maple leafs and the bugattis they don't like it when the hop-up is pushing too far to the back they actually want it to push more to the front why because the contact point and the centering is bigger here than it is in the back and also if it's more in the middle the contact patch of a bigger knob will actually perform more of the hop effect so you will have a flatter tractory if you use a omeganip with this arm in this combination i can guarantee you you'll see a lot of over and under hop and i would even say that let's say left and right consistency you would see some flyers left and right but most importantly you would see quite a bit of over and under hop in this in this setup so we remove this for now we've seen that that arm doesn't properly fit this combination that would be already a conclusion that this arm would not be right that's also the reason why this performs so much better than i ever got this to function even though i used something without anything so i could place the knob whenever i want but i just want to zoom in before going into that more on this whole knob thing right so why are there so many different knobs and what is the right knob for you now i already showed a little bit but the knob size needs to obviously leave no play right so if you look at this it's exactly the same size actually it's attached to the arm right so theoretically this is the most rigid and the most perfect type of knob slash arm you could get let's assume and because of what we have now let's assume it's not off center like now right where it's sitting too far to the back and where if you would add let's say a bucking it would actually push down next to the knob you want to see the knob and the in this case the concave of the bucking exactly aligned so a small concave like this requires a smaller a thinner knob because you don't want it to push on the sides you want to push only on the ridge itself a larger patch like this or an r hop you want to fill out that whole space between the barrel so the same length as the barrel as a knot so you want something that is as big as possible as long as possible so that it perfectly fits you want something that is really hard like the silent industry knob or the ones i like very much are the aluminium cnc knobs but you want something that is able to fill the entire patch and matches the size or the layout of the of the patch so again right small ridge means you need a small knob a large section ridge you need a larger knob you want the knob to match the patch so the knob to match the ridge of the bucking now then there's another thing and we get into this really theoretical part separate arm with knob it has a benefit that you can choose the nip which you want it has the benefit that when you have an arm that moves like that that you don't have the problem of this knob is that you're you know only now you're in the right angle but the moment you apply more hop it gets sort of frontward focused and less hop means it's backward focus right you see that the knob is no longer perfectly contacting sorry the uh yeah the knob is not perfectly contacting the bucking you want it to be always sort of centered the two-piece design allows for the arm to swivel right you can see it can rock forward and backward this is great on the one hand because it means it kind of always applies force to the to the bottom right so it always makes sure that you're pushing down but the reason why this setup will always show more over and under hub than let's say a one piece and i know this is a two piece but a one piece tdc so where the sledge pushes down only exactly to the bottom is another effect and that is if you have an arm with a separate knob like this when a bb passes it actually will move so it will rock your nip slightly back and forth and i love this about the test i did with the alpha chamber because initially i had a separate nub which could do some slight movement back and forth and i still had a little bit of over and on there up the moment i glued and you need to do this properly right you can only do this one but the moment i glued that concave knob to the arm to the tdc i have removed all of my over and under hub so that means that let's say the tdc that doesn't have the problem of an arm that goes under a different angle so the reason why the 1.0 is a great knob of sorry is a great arm with knob but not perfect it is solved by a tdc but the problem of a two piece is that it can still rock back and forth whenever the bb passes so the moment that that becomes one piece or you glue it together into one piece you can remove that small little bit of over and under hop that is still left this is why tdc is loved by so many over a traditional arm but back on track so we have a barrel that is of decent quality we have a bucking that fits the barrel properly we have made a choice whether or not we want a bigger patch or we want a small ridge we're making sure that where the knob is actually contacting the bucking that we have a knob that is of very similar size as the actual concave and is located exactly above the place where it should apply hub so not too much to the front to the back not to the left not to the right we've made sure that the right size knob is pushing down on the right position of the bucking we removed any play it has to left or right to rock forward and backwards and then we have a perfect setup in terms of arm nep bucking barrel and hop-up unit so at this moment you are pretty much into the world of perfection and this is where you see that with the alpha chamber uh same as radial arms by the way i have found that the tolerances are so small that you don't need to apply any corrections you don't need to file down anything you don't need to yeah put sticky tape or fill up any gaps that are there these units do a great job at fitting perfectly in this case to a pdi barrel pdi perfect cut so i did not have to do any corrections for the hop-up unit to really make everything aligned other than super gluing a concave knob onto the slide that is a part of the tdc now then we're almost there so we now have in theory the perfect setup when it comes to alignment and there is still two places where we need to make sure that everything is done properly it needs to fit snug into the outer barrel so what you don't want to see is this because whatever play you have left no matter how tight your setup is it's like you know going like this with your arm you're just not gonna hit consistently that same single spot it will just move around so just use some sticky tape make sure you do that consistently and make sure that it sits very snug into that outer barrel get rid of any play that is left that is both for the outer barrel as well as the hop-up unit itself now the old-school hop-up units they actually have wings and i know the the max hop-up has the same they actually have wings that will help center but you still see and there's play in it but they will help center the hop-up unit the phoenix hop-up and the alpha hop-up don't have those wings but they have let's say the top part that slides in into the top and if you have any play left because i did have that unfortunately with the whole book chamber you can see that here imagine dialing your hop-up you're automatically changing also sort of very little but you are still changing the position of the hop-up compared to the outer barrel and let me tell you this if you're 70 meters downrange this it does make a difference so then one of the last steps we do is make sure that a little bit of sticky tape that the whole setup it can still move you can still pull it in and out but that it is sitting really snug into the outer barrel and what i really like about the alpha chamber compared to for instance the phoenix is that this little extension here with this o-ring it even helps lock in the engine in place so that from engine nozzle hop-up all the way to the outer barrel we have one stiff setup that is not going anywhere which means that all the efforts we put in on aligning our knob and our bucking into the setup is not being offset by any wobble in the rest of the system so this is why some setups shoot lasers and someone that has exactly the same parts is complaining that they still see over and under hub or they complain that they still have some flyers every now and then obviously you need good consistency so i'm assuming your rack is good right you don't have seven or eight fps difference the bucking you're using is sealing properly so we're looking at the setup that is pushing out one two maybe three fps difference at max when you're testing these setups downrange it should perform equally good on 0.2 i personally play 0.2 gram tracer units as it does with 0.4 because if it can hop properly in a straight line a 0.2 it can definitely hold a 0.4 or 0.48 straight down the line it just does it under a better condition so it can handle a bit more wind and it can actually push them further down the range so it will help with range and that's it so don't just buy expensive parts if you're willing to push so much into your mtw just spend half an hour to get everything aligned and i will tell you that your mtw it will shoot lasers

Channel: RCustoms

Views: 84,391

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Id: E61gkRlCbBo

Length: 24min 54sec (1494 seconds)

Published: Mon Sep 19 2022