How to fix a Split CV Boot!

g'day coppers welcome back to the bush in this episode of lockhart's four driving we'll be replacing this stuffed cv boot that anyone can do with basic hand tools in your own driveway so let's get into it so before we start ripping stuff apart don't forget it needs to be safe to work on and that means jack stands not just jack's other vehicle i've also put the tires that i've taken off under the sills of the vehicle in case the jack stand fails i've chocked the back wheels i've put the park brake on because we're working on the front wheels and don't forget if you're driving a full-time full driver let's say like a 200 series land cruiser make sure you lock the center differential and if you don't understand why click the link up above and it'll explain to you in short order anyway we have to get this brake caliper off there's a couple of bolts top and bottom so let's get into that i'm just using a hammer to give it a little bit of encouragement now those two out we should be able to remove the brake caliper assembly and don't forget once it's off don't touch the brake pedal otherwise you'll push the pads out and it'll push the pistons out as well and we're going to secure this to the top using a couple of wire ties let's have a look from the other side now okay so the next one we have to undo here is a cv nut now in this case this one's a 32 mil now if you don't have access to an impact like this what i'd recommend you do is put the vehicle back on the ground with the wheel on it to get the weight on there and then you can use a breaker bar and usually extension pole on the end of your breaker bar don't do those nuts there's a fair bit of tension in there but i've got an impact now i know i'm not using a impact socket there but if it makes you feel any better leave a comment in the section down below and i'll paint it black but other than that let's get this nut off and there will be a talk spec for it so we'll have to uh look up the talk spec later and we'll pop him aside next thing we want to do is remove this split pin here so we can disconnect the steering arm to flatten out this split pin now these are single use items so you don't use these twice you pull it out and you throw it away and get another one now we can loosen the moss now there's a taper that holds this in here so we're going to need to break the taper and i'll use one of these tools it seems to be the easiest way especially once you put it in right side up which is like that you get your 19mm on the bottom here and eventually it'll pop it with a giant bang they just keep turning until she pops so back on the left hand side again we've got this line here which is the wheel speed sensor and this line here being the brake line and that's kind of getting in the way so we're just going to undo that so now with that out of the road we've got clear access to this nut here and the one up above which we'll both have we'll have to remove this one and loosen this one so let's start on that now the reason we're taking this one out and loosening off this one is so we can tilt the whole assembly to break rotor and everything up a bit so we can get the cv out yeah these will be pretty tight so a little bit of percussive help so with that one there loosened let's start on this one now just encourage it out there we go now we've got that out we can work on the bottom one now we're right underneath now we need to remove this split pin and depends on the design of it it's the what's at the bottom here this one has a split pin and a taper lock which will no doubt be entertaining to get out oh yeah now we've got the split pin out and grab our tie rod tool and put that in and see if we can encourage it out right after i remove the nut that's going to help now i can get the tightrod tool onto it it might actually come out now now we're on let's see if we can crack it and pop there she goes now with our taper broken we can pull the lower arm out then leave it out we'll see if we can get this out usually just encourage it with a hammer [Music] and after a few bit of messing around we've got the disc off okay so now we've done this end we have to disconnect it from the differential end okay so this is the inner cv and there is the differential there so i've got a bit of a chisel here i'm going to move the camera otherwise it'll end up with the wool all over it but you get a chisel in here or a screwdriver or a lever or something and you just push it a little bit and you can push the cv out of the differential itself so i'll do that now and i'll show you once it's out anyway okay so now comes time to remove the old cv boot now the easiest way i find to do it is with an angle grinder uh you can cut them of course but uh kind of when the angle grinder is pretty fast so i'll just do that now [Music] that's one and i'll put it on a better angle so you can see what i'm doing for the other one we're going to slice this in half [Applause] basically i'll just wrangle them off now the easiest way to get the boot off i found is just to cut it off with a stanley knife so i'll grab my stanley knife and you just cut from one end to the other that last little bit here we go right now just peel it away that's it cv boots off we'll clean up the gunk out of it now to remove the cv itself from the drive shaft i'm going to add a bit of the grease here as you can see and what we need to do is we need to simultaneously pull on the end of the cv and whack on there with a hammer now if you've got a brass hammer a brass drift more power to you i don't so here we go alrighty and there's a little circlip in here that locks this in which i'll show in a minute when we're reassembling now it's time to get the actual cv boot and do the install with that okay now comes time to reinstall the boot but first up we'll grab the clamps two clamps and we'll pop them on right at the end small one first large one second reason for that will come apparent in a minute and then we can slide the new boot over the top of the assembly and push him right back it'll make it easier for us in a second so then grab your cv now you can clean it out with brake cleaner or whatever i've got most of the gunk out your cv kit will come with grease and what you need to do is you need to fill it up but also be watching that i'll fast forward this bit now that circlip i was talking about before has two ends and what you need to do is you need to start it into then you need to push the two ends in and it's kind of hard to see through all this grease until you can feel them both lock in and then you can push the cv home or it might need a gentle tap with a hammer and you might have or might not have heard the click there and that tells me that the circlip is now sprung out a little bit and she's fully seated then you grab the rest of your grease because there's cv and they love grease and put it all around there use the entire packet now with the last of the grease putting in there we can actually pull up the boot and there'll be a little slot that the boot sits in on either end now for the bands the fun part so we'll do the larger of the two first and it's usually a double wrap on this sort there's two styles the other style the other main style is the one we actually took off where you need a different tool now you can do this with pliers and a screwdriver and a pair of tin snips or you can purchase one of these and uh bob's your uncle the way you work with these cv band tools is you thread the end through like that put him under the cutter and then you put him onto the winding mechanism once you've got that all set up a little bit through line up your band i really should get the grease off my hands before doing this ah that'll do all right so we've lined up the end of the boot there and you just use this to put some tension onto the band now not too much tension otherwise you'll cut into the boot itself once you're happy with the tension bend him over to lock him off and then cut him off that's it we're left with that little bit up there now all we need to do is lock it down and neaten it up so you remember the pain here and there's two in from the edges here that's one end done on with the other end i don't know put the other band on simply grab the end slide it through then you need to put it around a little winch bit windless perhaps once you've got that through just drawing through the back line him up then use the handle to put the tension on there and they might be better going that way now not too much tension otherwise you'll cut into the rubber once you're happy with the amount of tension just bend him over then use the other bar to cut him flush now with that done we have to neaten up the edge so we'll pin this edge over a little bit glue is nice and flat and then we've got the two parts coming in from each edge two little tabs so we just need to hold this flat and bend them over then we'll paint him flat again using the pin punch that's it now we're ready to install it back in the vehicle now to reinstall the drive shaft we have to pop it back up here and you have to line up on the inside which isn't the easiest job this blinds on the inside once you've got it there sometimes you'll have to rotate him a little bit there we go and occasionally once in a blue moon it will slide in and pop right in like it did then and that's all my luck used up for the next millennia right here with that done we can reassemble the rest of it starting by putting the spline into the hub it's almost starting to look like a drivetrain again okay next one is a couple of bolts down the bottom and then a bolt up the top and i'll move the camera so you can have a decent look at that for the lower ball joint on the lower control arm we'll screw him down there now i'm sure there's a talk spec for it but i don't know what it is and usually when you're putting through the pin on the castle loaded nut anyway it talks about it goes out so front and a half maybe nice and tight now we've got that nice and tight we'll have to keep adjusting it until we can see the hole for the split pin that seems to line up there okay so i'll just grab my split pin all right so we'll just separate the two halves a minute back on itself we'll shorten up this half a little bit and we'll bend it back up the other side beauty bottom's done onto the steering arm in there for the steering arm so i zip tied that up out of the road so we'll just cut the zip tie take the bolt off and reinstall it in the steering arm and get that in as straight as you can then we can pop the bolt on the top the nut sorry and we'll just tension it in and again that's going to require another split pin in it so we line that up as best we can look little bit split pin and see if it's even remotely close that it is first try there you go first time for everything and just as before take the top one over the top bend him over and we'll cut this one short and now we'll just push this one down beautiful job done now i've already started this bolt here so next we've got these two camber bolts there part of the mcfirst and strut assembly and we'll just tighten them up and these are fairly big bolts so grant and a half and now to the bottom one i need to put another on the other side just tighten him up too yeah right that's tight a little bit of wiring on the other side now so we'll spin around the other side back on the front side of the car again and we'll pop him in here that's just a secure bit of wiring so again this is the wheel speed sensor for the abs system and traction control and the other one's a brake line and we'll just nip him down okay only a couple more things to do and one being the caliper for the brake so we'll do that now and now for the brake caliper i cut the zip tie that was holding it up to the spring there if no one's touched the brake pedal it should pretty much flop back on i did so pretty much there we go didn't want to fight me too much after all okay so we've got the two seven eight mils top and bottom and we'll see if we can line up at least the top is usually the easiest okay so we've got them both started now it's a matter of tightening it up and the top one might only be able to get a spanner onto that so i'll see if i'm winding me by hand okay lucky last thing to do is the spindle nut this is usually the way it's the last nut that will give you the grief and this one was no exemption murphy was there to get me today anyway so the threads were a bit bird up and the nut wasn't going on cleanly i thought it might have been the one from the other side so i took that off and swapped them over now it was definitely the cv spindle i suppose you'd call it here so instead of just putting the nut on there and sending it with ugga duggars i actually got out a very fine file and cleaned up the threads and i seem to have done a pretty good job so i'll just send him home now okay now that's all done so last thing left to do of course is just to paint it to lock it in on that side and one on this side and that's it we're all over by the shelton anyway guys thanks for sticking around to the end now if you like this video don't forget to give it a yellow thumbs up if you didn't by all means give it a thumbs down twice thanks guys see in the next one but i've got an impact so i'm gonna rip it off with the impact let's try that righty tighty lefty loose here

Channel: Lock your Hubs 4WDing

Views: 1,308,466

Keywords: 4x4, 4wd, Land Cruiser, Toyota, Nissan, Patrol, Landcruiser, Discovery, cv, ifs, prado, hilux, fortuner, colerado, landcruiser 100, landcruiser 200, prado 90, prado 150, prado 120, mazda bt50, ford ranger, ranger raptor, diy mechanical, replace cv boot, cv boot replacement, birfield boot, birfield replacement, diy mechanical repairs, split dv boot, torn cv boot, ripped cv boot, constant velocity joint, cv band installation, cv clamp installation, cv joint grease, moly grease

Id: X6tK26HdDBw

Length: 24min 57sec (1497 seconds)

Published: Tue Dec 22 2020