- Hello, everybody. Jennifer Maker here. It's a beautiful day to learn how to etch coated
tumblers with Citristrip. I'm excited to show you how to make these popular gifts easily,
and most importantly, safely, using my free designs or a custom stencil. We've tested several techniques, and we'll show you how they
all stack up with each other. So let's go to the craft table to see what you need to get started. (cheerful music) These etched tumblers are so much fun, and they look super
professional, don't you think? Now, the first thing you're going to need are some good quality metal tumblers with a coating that
Citristrip will work on. Specifically, you're looking for powder-coated tumblers, like this YETI. I love YETI. I tried a few different tumblers, and I put my favorites
in the materials list, so there's no need to
guess at what I used. Now, to do the actual etching,
we used a paint stripper. Specifically, we used Citristrip, because it's thick and easier to apply, and it's safer than other options. Plus, Citristrip is available at most home improvement stores, and you need just a few
teaspoons to etch a tumbler. You will get a lot of tumblers made out of one jug of this stuff. Now, Citristrip is
supposed to be more natural than most paint strippers, but
if something can strip paint, you have to be careful around it. (laughs) It's really important to
do the etching and cleaning in a well-ventilated area, preferably outside, if you can do it. You'll also want protective
gloves, eye protection, an N95 mask, and an apron
to protect yourself. Butcher paper will also help
you protect your work surface. Now, to apply the paint stripper, you will want a foam brush, like this one, a disposable or glass bowl... Something like this paint tray
would work great for that, and a timer to keep you on track. (laughs) Next, we need stencils made
from permanent adhesive vinyl. The color doesn't matter, but
the darker colors of vinyl are easier to see the wrinkles. And of course, you'll want to pick a color that stands out against
your tumbler color. I really like this Kelly
Green that we're using here. I thought it worked well
for all of our tumblers. Now, I use my Cricut
Maker 3 to cut my stencils out of the permanent adhesive vinyl using a green StandardGrip mat. You'll also want some
StandardGrip transfer tape. Scissors, scraper, and a
weeding tool will also help. And to protect the rest of your tumbler while you're etching,
you want painter's tape, or another material like that. You could even use scraps of vinyl. This is a great scrap buster project. Removing the gel takes access
to water and a kitchen sponge. I'll show you my favorite
scrubbing options. Depending on the tumbler
that you're using, actually, which one
you use depends, right? It actually matters a lot. You don't want to use
just any sponge here. I'll also show you how to
work with a glossy tumbler. It's a bit different, but faster. For a glossy tumbler,
you'll need aluminum foil, heat safe gloves, a
heat gun, and a heat mat so that you don't burn your surface. So, are you ready to
etch your own tumblers? Let me show you where to get
my free designs to learn with, which I have all sitting right here, and then how to make your own. Step one, get my free stencil files. Go to JenniferMaker.com/438
and look for "libraries" in the red bar at the top. Then, either click "get a password," if you don't yet have one,
or click "enter the library." You can find the designs on the page by searching for design number 438, and then click it to
download the zip file. You can cut these designs by hand with the printable PDFs I've provided, but it's much easier to
use the SVG cut files with a cutting machine. And this way, you can
make a custom stencil. I'll show you how to do this
on a Cricut cutting machine. There are three files in the SVG folder for you to choose from,
"cold nose, warm heart," "stay thankful," and "gobble gobble." The blank rectangles
are for custom stencils. I'll show you how to use them. Upload the SVG design file of your choice to Cricut Design Space
and add it to your canvas. I'll add "cold nose, warm heart." It's perfect for winter
dog walks. (laughs) If you're not sure how to do this, go to JenniferMaker.com/SVGs to learn how to unzip and upload files. Step two, prepare or
make your stencil design. This is what my "cold nose,
warm heart" design looks like on my canvas in Cricut Design Space. You can zoom in to see more detail by clicking on the plus
sign on the lower left. The designs are sized
to use on any of the 20 or 16-ounce tumblers in my material list. Resize the design only if
you're using an item so small that the stencil will wrap more than a third of the way around the object. If you need to change the size, make sure the lock icon
at the top is closed to maintain the design proportions. I'll also show you how to test Citristrip on the bottom of your cup
with the included heart piece. If you need to test more than one cup, select the heart and click duplicate until you have enough hearts. I'll make one copy to have as an extra. The blank rectangle is in case you want to make a custom stencil,
so let's look at that next. (sparkling music) It's pretty easy to create a custom name stencil to fit a tumbler. We'll use the blank rectangle next to the "cold nose, warm
heart" design as a reference. Next, click the text icon on the left hand side of the screen. A box with text highlighted in
it will appear on the canvas. Without clicking anything else,
type in the text you want. I'll add "ALEXA" in caps. Click the box that says "Cricut Sans" under "font" to see your options. Remember to click the
system section to find fonts that you've downloaded and
installed on your computer. I'm going to search for
the font "Pier Sans Bold," which you can download
from the designer site for personal use at
JenniferMaker.com/pier-sans. A size of 72 is good
for a name on a tumbler, but don't go wider than
four and a half inches so it fits well on your tumbler. You might need to resize longer names. Transform your name by typing
"270" in the "rotate" field. Then, select the "cold
nose, warm heart" design and click "ungroup." Hold shift to click the blank rectangle and name in the "layers" panel. Then, click the "align"
and "center" buttons. Looks right. Click "combine" below the "layers" panel, and then choose "exclude." This creates the stencil
with the negative space that you need for your etching gel. Now, you could use "slice,"
of course, instead, but using "exclude" is faster, and it means you can
undo it later if needed. If you only want to
make the custom design, hide the "cold nose, warm heart" stencil, but I'll leave it to cut both out. Your stencils are now ready to cut. Step three, cut and prepare your stencils. Make sure the correct machine is selected in the top
right, and click "make it." Keep the material size at 12 by 12. Since we're making stencils, you don't need to mirror the design. Click "continue." On the "make" screen,
set your base material to "permanent vinyl glossy" and leave the pressure at "more." Add your vinyl, color side up, to a clean green StandardGrip machine mat and adhere it well with a brayer. I'm using vinyl that will
stand out on my cup nicely. Make sure your fine-point blade is clean and in the correct clamp. Load the mat into your Cricut and press the flashing
button to load the material. Press the flashing
button to cut your vinyl. If you have any trouble
cutting your vinyl, check out my Cricut tips
and tricks for cleaner cuts at JenniferMaker.com/blades. When the cut is complete, unload the mat. Flip it over onto your work surface and gently roll a corner
back to release the vinyl and its carrier sheet. Now it's time to weed. Stencils require the
opposite weeding approach from traditional vinyl projects. Since we want the Citristrip
to create the design, we need the vinyl to protect
the area between and around it, so you'll remove the
decorations themselves with your weeding tool. Be sure to leave the
centers of any letters in place on the carrier sheet. If they accidentally
come off while weeding, because I know that it happens, just put them back in place carefully. Remove the vinyl around the rectangles, and the test piece, too. You can cut around each
design and test decal with scissors to separate
them, if you'd like. Step four, test and etch your tumbler. Let's make sure the Citristrip gel will work on this tumbler
using the little heart. I tested several kinds
with different results, and I always recommend
that you test yours too. Place your cup with the bottom up. Clean the bottom with an alcohol wipe to remove any oils or other debris. You can move the heart
stencil like a sticker, but this is a good taco method to practice for the main design. To do this, cut a piece of
StandardGrip transfer tape slightly larger than the test shape. Remove the backing and
hold the transfer tape in the shape of a taco, or a "U" shape. Then, put the bottom of your taco onto the middle of your decal. Smooth the tape over the
shape from the center outward to minimize wrinkles and bubbles. With the transfer tape in
place, run a scraper tool or other hard and flat-edged item over the front and back
with medium pressure. Flip your decal over and remove the paper
backing from the vinyl. If your stencil is sticking
to the backing paper, replace the transfer
tape and burnish again. Don't touch the adhesive backed vinyl. The oils from our fingers
can degrade the adhesion, and it won't create a
well-applied stencil. Now bend your test design
up into a taco shape over the tumbler's bottom and lay the middle down in an even area, gently smoothing it
from the middle outward. Check that the vinyl around
the design adhered well to keep the gel from
etching anywhere else. Use your fingers to gently push
the vinyl down really well, removing any bubbles or creases. Now peel up the transfer tape and make sure the stencil is secure. Before applying the etching liquid, cover the rest of the tumbler's
bottom with painter's tape to avoid getting the etching
gel where you don't want it. Add some of the sides too. Read the Citristrip's
instructions and guidance on accidental exposure before proceeding. The liquid is caustic, and
you don't want to inhale it, get it on your skin,
or get it in your eyes. Before opening it, make sure you're in a well-ventilated area or outside with a flat, protected surface. Put on safety goggles, gloves, an apron, and an appropriate mask. Remember, safety first. Set your timer for 50
minutes before you start so you're not trying to do it with etching gel on your gloves. (laughs) If you do come in contact with the liquid, follow the bottle's
directions immediately. Shake your Citristrip really
well before you open it. Put some Citristrip in a paint safe tray, then use a foam brush to add a little Citristrip over the heart shape. Let it sit for 50 minutes. Yes, that's right. 50 minutes, as in five-zero minutes. When the time is up, use your weeding tool to see if the powder coating feels loose, but don't scratch the metal. If it moves easily, it's a success. Record that time for the type of tumbler. If not, let it sit for 10 more minutes. If it still doesn't work
well, try another tumbler. When you get a good result
and know how long it takes, keep your protective equipment on to rinse the cup in a
bucket of clean water. Remove the protective tape
and get ready for the designs. Make sure to dispose of the
brush and any other objects with an amount of Citristrip on it safely. At this point, the directions vary, depending on whether you're using a matte, not glossy tumbler
or a glossy tumbler. Matte tumblers are more common, so let me show you how to do those first. (sparkling music) You can prepare your matte tumbler inside, but remember to work outside
or in a well-ventilated area and put on your protective
gear before you start etching. Then, use a lint roller
to keep the cup in place on your protected work surface. Use the same steps from the test decals to add StandardGrip transfer tape to the design you want to use. This time, place the matte tumbler with the opening at the top. Remove any grease or dirt
with an alcohol wipe. You can position the design however you like on your tumbler, but I recommend placing
the top edge of the vinyl right at the upper edge
for the best result. Larger tumblers will simply have the design closer to the top. After you place the design
on your matte tumbler, start smoothing the most
detailed areas first, as they need the most precision. Your fingers and the
scraper will both help. Once you get to the edges,
you can lift up the vinyl and reapply it if it gets too wrinkly. If you have a lot of trouble
or you tear your vinyl design, recut it in a darker color, as the imperfections are
easier to see in them. Once your stencil is smoothly
adhered to the tumbler, you can peel the transfer
tape off the vinyl at a steep angle while continuously
pressing smaller details down on the cup to make sure
every piece sticks really well. If you find any wrinkles or
creases, smooth them out again. Then, cover the rest of the
cup with painter's tape, scrap vinyl, or transfer tape. Remember to protect the bottom and the upper part of the inside too. Once you've got your stencil on, it's time to put on your safety equipment. Set your timer for the amount of time that you found most
successful during testing. I had the best results
at 50 to 60 minutes, with faster etching on hot days. Some tumblers will take more or less time, so just use my findings as guidelines. Again, put some Citristrip in a paint safe disposable or glass bowl. Use a small foam brush
to apply a thick layer on top of the stencil's open areas. Always use a foam brush and nothing with harder
bristles or rollers that could affect the stencil's
application stability. Brush it thoroughly in all
directions for one minute. No need to overdo it or use too much. Then, start your timer. Once the elapsed time is up,
test the progress by poking a small spot with the weeding tool to see if the powder coating feels loose. Don't scratch the metal, though. If it's still stubborn,
wait a few more minutes. If it looks good, get ready
to rinse and scrub the cup. Make sure to remove any
extra gel in a safe manner, keeping your protective
equipment on in case of splashes. I used a bucket of water outside. With the stencil still on your tumbler, get a blue Scotch-Brite pad. Blue won't scuff a matte
tumbler, but green will. Over your bucket, scrub the design like you would a dirty pot to remove most of the loosened powder coating. Run the tumbler underwater or wipe away the debris
to check your progress. Once most of the material is
gone, peel off the stencil. Use that blue Scotch-Brite
pad to make sure you have clear edges for your designs. Rinse away any extra debris. Once you're happy with the results, clean or dispose of
your brush, containers, and other tools and materials
while the tumbler dries. (sparkling music) If you want to try a more glossy tumbler, you can use the aluminum
foil and heat technique. This technique works
for matte tumblers too, but it's really necessary when you're working with
the glossy tumblers. First, follow the same steps
to apply the Citristrip, then wrap aluminum foil
around the tumbler, covering the entire thing. Then, swap your disposable
gloves for heat resistant ones and set a heat gun to
700 degrees Fahrenheit. Heat the tumbler with the
machine for one minute, being careful to keep it moving. Using a heat gun will go a lot faster than the traditional way of letting it sit at room temperature, and it works on the gloss tumbler. Place the wrapped and very hot tumbler on a fire safe work surface
free of any flammable things, such as a silicon resistant mat. Once the tumbler has
cooled for a few minutes, remove the aluminum foil. Just like the other technique, you'll want to get your bucket
of water and wipe off the gel. This time, use the more
delicate pink scrubber to remove the etched coating material. It should be much easier
to remove, but be careful. A glossy tumbler is also
much easier to scuff. Try leaving the stencil on the entire time to make sure the gloss
tumbler stays glossy. Once the image is clear,
remove the stencil, rinse the tumbler, and let it dry. And here are all the results. Aren't they fantastic? I love how sharp they look. Now, I really like both the
matte and the glossy tumblers, but it's a lot easier to
work with the matte tumblers, like the YETIs, and these, since you don't have to
deal with a heat gun. If you're making a lot of matte tumblers and are comfortable with a heat gun, it's a lot faster, so it's worth trying. But remember, you
definitely need to follow the heat gun process for glossy surfaces, like this glossy tumbler. I got the most consistent
results with the matte tumblers, as long as I took the time
to prepare everything well. And while testing the
bottom of each tumbler might sound boring, it's totally worth it. That way, you won't ruin a tumbler with results that you
don't absolutely love. Trust me on this one. And be sure to definitely
clean the tumbler with alcohol, even if it's brand new. Any dirt or grease on the surface will keep the stencil from adhering well, which could let the
Citristrip escape the design. Our skin oils also
interfere with the bond, so wear your gloves when
handling the cleaned tumblers. If I had trouble applying a stencil, I let it sit for a few hours
in a cool, low humidity room and then smoothed out the wrinkles again. It was easier after I let it rest a bit. Just a little tip there. My tumblers worked best after 50 minutes with the Citristrip, but
longer is not always better. I tested a few after leaving the gel on for an hour and a half,
and the stencil rippled, letting the etching seep underneath. Not pretty, huh? So even though I'd applied the stencil just like the others, it didn't work, so don't let it sit too long. And make sure you use the right scrubber, because they really do make a difference in the precise results. Remember, blue or pink, okay? And you might be wondering if Citristrip is the best option for
etching these tumblers. In my opinion, it is. This gel is a lot safer
than other varnish removers, as long as you wear your safety gear. It works really well
on the powder coating. It's much easier to find
than the other products, too. My bottle came from my local
home improvement store, so it's pretty easy to find. If you're making your own stencil, don't make them super detailed, as that's really hard to etch nicely. Keep any areas to be etched at least the size of a pencil's eraser. It's tough to remove the
coating in thinner sections, so save yourself a little sanity there. And once you've done all of this work, take good care of your tumblers. Even if the cup says it's dishwasher safe, consider it a hand wash
only after you've etched it. They're really easy to clean
with dish soap and warm water. Don't use scratchy things on the surface, just dry them with a gentle cloth, and then you'll keep your tumblers lasting a really long time. If you have any questions about
etching tumblers or stencils that didn't get answered here, or anything else I can help
you with, please let me know. Leave your question below this video or ask over in our Cricut Crafters group at JenniferMaker.com/CricutCrafters. I love to help and see you succeed. And that's it for today. Until next time, this is Jennifer Maker, reminding you to craft a life you love. (cheerful music)
