How To Dial In Your Brew System and Process To Make Repeatable Beer That Meets Your Expectations

in this video i'm going to show you how to dial in your brew system and brewing process i'm going to show you what you need to do in order to get a recipe output that matches your recipe input meaning that you take a recipe from someone and what you make is exactly what you got on that recipe how many times have you made a five gallon batch of beer where you ended up with four gallons of beer how many times did you copy a grain bill only to find out that your gravities and alcohol by volumes are off or your bitterness levels or your color you can adjust and correct for all of that to ensure that the recipe you get out of your boot system and process aligned with the recipe that you started with if something like that interests you stick around and i'll show you the details [Music] [Music] so i'm going to cover four major topic areas in this video and i'm gonna put chapters in here so you can skip to them now or later or come back and skip to whatever chapters you want uh there'll be chapters in the video and down in the video description so you can jump around as you need to if you have to go back in and rewatch this in the future but i got four main areas i want to cover calibrating measuring devices accounting for equipment differences accounting for process differences and putting it all together how many times have you made a recipe where your outputs in terms of gravity readings or colors or ibus or anything else are just not aligned with the recipe that you got and you wondered well something i did something wrong right well maybe you didn't do something wrong maybe you did but you don't know because your devices that you take the measurements are are not calibrated properly you might be thinking that you're hitting your gravity numbers right but you could be off or you think that you're off but they could be right it's because you didn't measure your volumes correctly or your gravities or you're measuring them at a temperature other than what your devices are calibrated for so i'm going to go over three areas about calibration how to take good and accurate specific gravity readings taking accurate volume measurements and making sure that you're doing all this at the temperatures that you need to to compare apples to apples in your recipes and process starting off with your specific gravity readings it's very common that you use one of two types of gadgets to measure these right there's the hydrometer and there's a refractometer now both of these have pros and cons to each of them and you need to understand what they are to know how to best use them to make sure that you aren't getting incorrect readings hydrometers are usually the first thing that new brewers start with and old timers still hang on to and they're very valid for good reasons even if you choose a refractometer who some people who some think are better than uh hydrometers which is not true some cases yes there's pros and cons of each but when it comes to hydrometers they have some things that you have to be aware of hydrometers are only accurate to the temperature that they're rated for so if you take your temperature at anything other than the caliber temperature you're going to be off now there's some cheap sheets out there that can help you make adjustments for slight variations of temperature so if you're in the ballpark of the calibrated temperature you can read off a chart for every degree or two or above or below you can add or remove a pointer to a specific gravity to adjust for it they're not completely accurate every time a better way to do it is to use a calculator of some sort there's brewing tools out there like my own spreadsheet i got the plug out for that as well that you can download and correct so you can input a sample let's say instead of 60 degrees fahrenheit where it might be calibrated you measure it at 72 75 degrees and it will calculate the adjustment for you there's other software tools out there that will do this of course too but of course i'm biased because i have my own but those only work within us within a limited range i mean you really can't measure 150 degree sample of work on hydrometer and expect any equation to be really close to that so you really want to get that temperature down within a reasonable amount of around where your calibrated temperature is it doesn't have to be exact again you can use these calculators or cheat sheets but as long as you make those corrections for temperature you should be okay another mistake that people do with hydrometers is that they don't calibrate them first they presume they came from the company they ordered them from and they're dead nuts accurate they're not not always in fact these home brewing hydrometers really are just the homebrewing level they're not laboratory grade they're not precision they're pretty good but they're not great they generally have a plus or two uh points of tolerance in their readings just out of the box but they're also not always calibrated for example if you dip a hydrometer in a vial of distilled water at your calibrated temperature and if it doesn't read 1.000 you need to calibrate your hydrometer i've done a whole video on how to calibrate your hydrometer i can put the link to it right up here for you to go get it it's very useful a lot of background as to how to do it so i highly recommend go calibrate your hydrometers first also my brewing spreadsheet once you know what that offset is you can input that in as an offset in the spreadsheet so it always takes care of it for you you don't always have to remember to add and subtract the number i'm sure other brewing software tools also can do this for you too i'm not sure which ones can and cannot but i'm sure they have to be out there and it's not that hard to do but if not make the adjustment yourself another problem with hydrometers is that they're hard to read especially the homebrewing ones the little tick marks are so close together and that you have to read from the bottom of the meniscus not the top that's another common issue i've seen people do they take the readings at the top of the meniscus which is incorrect so they're already getting wrong numbers but even if you tried to measure the bottom level it's really hard to do in these little hydrometers in these at the homebrewing scale the ticks are too close together makes the uh it's human error at this point trying to read that number so you could be off by a few gravity points possibly just by an error in measurement using your own eyes it's better to use a laboratory grade set of hydrometers a set which means there's actually two or more hydrometers each of them calibrated to a specific range so the tick marks are spread out further making human error less likely to be a contributing factor and they're calibrated to a smaller range which also makes them more accurate so you might have one from from 1.000 to 1.030 another one from 1030 to 1060 1060 to 1090 right so you get those out there and they're much easier to read you get much more accurate results but those do tend to get more expensive so as a compromise there is some hydrometers out there one of them that i have in my possession from brewing america is the precision lab grade one it goes from 1.0 to 1.1 um and with bigger tick marks longer wider tick marks between the ticks to make it easier to read it's a compromise between the lab grade set which is more expensive and the cheaper single hydrometers that home brewers use so if you can't afford the labor la the lab grade set go ahead and go for the one that i just mentioned there i'll put a link in the video description or up or up here as well and one other common mistake that people who use hydrometers make is that they take their readings with a heterogeneous mixture or wart and what i mean by that it's not homogeneous it's not mixed what people do is that i've got many questions on this which is why i'm covering this here in this video is that people will take a measurement reading after they lauderd from their mash tun right another kettle they'll like they'll dip the wine thief in there or take a sample from their ball valve on the side of the kettle and it'll be either too high or way too low and they think they did something completely wrong what happens then is what's going on is that uh aside from the temperature being a factor which is you also have to again adjust for is that the people are not stirring the words see what happens is that when people water from their mash tun and put it into their kettle that first layer got the very bottom is the most dense and by the time the last running's hit ah it's it's it's much lower gravity and this applies for for any types of sparging fly sparging bass barging no sparging um well maybe not no sparging as much but the point is is that the lower level is going to be denser than the higher level so what you want to do is give that mashed paddle out or a big spoon stir it up really good then take your reading i've felt prey to that myself over the years and i've learned my lessons from that and i'm sharing that with you and hope that you don't make the same mistake now moving on to refractometers they may be more convenient than hydrometers in some ways but they're not always better refractometers are also temperature sensitive which means you have to cool the sample down within a reason now there's there's there's models out there with atc or automatic temperature correction and i have one of those as well but they really again are only workable within a limited range and you have to wait the required amount of time for the sample to stabilize it in the uh on the refractometer in order to get the accurate readings so taking a 150 degree sample and measuring it right away in the refractometer this isn't going to work for you you'll get wrong readings all right so just keep that in mind even with the atc models there's a more reasonable range there that you might want to get your your sample down to it it doesn't take long for a few drops of of work to cool down at least compared to a vial or a flask full of hydrometer wort right so it doesn't take that long just a little patience you take your sample let it cool and then read it and you should be good to go so the more convenient from the standpoint that you use less work for your sample than a hydrometer it takes less to cool down but there are some serious drawbacks to refractometers for one they're affected by color the color of your work is going to throw off that reading because refractometers work by by bending light through a liquid right and you have different colors of liquid the light's going to refract in different degrees and impact the refraction caused by the sugar in the work which is what we're trying to ultimately measure so there's a correction factor that you can apply now there's a a common one out there uh i think it's called one 1.04 which is an adjustment or a work correction factor uh that's sort of like a starting point but truth is to get a real accurate word correction factor for your word you need to take a lot of measurements of a lot of your different beer styles of different colors keep a tabulated log and come up with your average to use and that's really what you should be using and that average won't be the same for every beer style every color is going to have a different impact on that on that readings so just be aware of that now some brewing software could take that correction factor and plop it in like my spreadsheet can do and other brewing tools uh to to adjust for that but the truth is is that you really need to know what the real correction factor is to get real numbers at the end of this but if you don't know use the 104 it gets you in the ballpark at least another big downside to using reflectometers is that they're only accurate on unfermented word that's right you think you're making beer it's going to measure the final beer that's got the alcohol in it you'll get a really really wrong reading if you were to use a refractometer on fermented wort however there are some empirical formulas that have been experimentally determined by others not me of course but others out there online and you can go find some of these websites they have really good information but using some of these experimental correction formulas will help you reconvert that incorrect post-fermented reading into a more representative reading that would be more accurate but it's not 100 accurate and to be fair hydrometers aren't either i did mention this earlier but after your hydrometer your word is fermented your hydrama readings is gonna be off a little bit too but for home brewing purposes not a big deal another downside is just like for hydrometers you have to have a mixed wort you can't just take a freshly lauded pre-boiled kettle volume take a sample from the top or bottom expect it to be representative of the average gravity in that whole batch you need to stir it up really well make it homogenous before you take that reading even with a refractometer one final mistake i've seen refractometer users make for home brewing at least is to read the wrong scale on the refractometer so a lot of them most of them have either will have both a brick scale on one side of the eyepiece and a specific gravity scale on the other and i see many of them read the specific gravity and write that down as like it's it's uh it's god right it's like that's the number it's not the number it's not accurate what you really should be doing is using the bricks reading put it through a conversion formula to convert it properly to specific gravity and write that value down after the conversion now i have a spreadsheet that also helps with that as well i'm sure many other brewing software tools also can do this so just keep that in mind don't use the specific gravity scale in the refractometer use the bricks one okay let's move on to volumes volumes are going to be a little tricky as well and people don't put too much thought into it everyone's focused on gravity readings all the time but truth is your volume affects your specific gravity affects everything it affects your color affects your bitterness affects your final alcohol it impacts everything that's why it's important a complicating factor around volume is that it changes with temperature water or work will expand and contract with temperature and we do a lot of heating and contracting in the brewing process we start with either groundwater that's really cold and we heat it up and then we get to a boil and we cool it down and we're taking measurements all in the way and we need if you want to get accurate measurements on your volume and therefore accurate predictions on what you're going to get from your outputs in your recipe you really want to know what those temperatures are and how to account for those shrinkage or expansion differences in every step of the process too for example if you measure out your starting water volume let's say it's 51.7 quarts at groundwater temperature let's say it's 56 degrees uh which is common for me and you measure it again and it measures at 52.7 at your pre-boil volume which is let's say it's 152 degrees you'll get an error of one quart in your measurement take that to a boil and the air becomes 2.1 quarts from the starting water volume to the boil that's over a half gallon the half gallon is going to throw off your readings for everything else from your gravities again to your color to everything so if you're looking to zero in on your outputs focus on that too another thing that's really common unfortunately when it comes to measuring accurate volumes is the markings on your brewing equipment whether it be your kettle your all-in-one your mashed equipment whatever it is they'll have tick marks etched or or or etched under scratched whatever embedded raised letters whatever they are uh how do you know what temperature those were taken at you don't right so again if you if you just step to conclusions and assume it's the same temperature that you think you're measuring your water at you could be off you could be filling it up to a certain volume fill level you think it's what it shows but how do you know it probably isn't and take that with the temperature when you raise and lower it to the mash temperatures to the oil temperatures to the to the post chilling temperatures how do you know what you got for real you don't but there's a workaround what i do is i take i basically make a measuring dip stick for each application so i'll take a strip of from the hardware store i'll go buy a strip of aluminum or or stainless steel and i'll calibrate a no chug to exactly one gallon at let's say like 68 degrees fahrenheit i'll calibrate that jug by measuring uh several fills of a 500 milliliter graduated cylinder which is laboratory grade at that temperature it's it's it's slow to set up you have to make sure every vial is at the right temperature you can you mark your your milk jug or your water jug at certain points along the way at that same reference temperature and you have a baseline that can always go back to then you can use that one gallon jug now to fill up several times to fill up several gallons worth in your cuddle and each gallon or quarter gallon or quart or liter or whatever your unit of measure is you would make a tick mark as you pour that into your vessel you make a little tick mark you etch it on there with a little etching tool or whatever you can mark it with and once you get up to the max fill then you can go ahead and put a little note on the thing that says that it's for this volume vessel mashed ton kettle whatever at the temperature that you're measuring at right and that's one disk stick but you can also create multiple dipsticks for the same vessel so so let's say that you have one for your ground water volume you have one for your let's say your final or main mash temperature volume you can make one for your boil volume and it's really easy to do once you have your first dip stick made at your groundwater temperature you can heat the water up to any any point that you want to have that baseline reference get a new dipstick or turn the other stick around and and and start measuring that and i mean yeah it's slow but you get an accurate result every time so if you're trying to debug and troubleshoot why your recipe didn't match what the recipe that you were trying to copy from was this is a helpful tool to help you figure out was it the volume measurements so now i've talked about temperature a number of times in context of gravity readings and volume measurements and so therefore temperature is also an important thing to make sure you can measure correctly and depending on the type of thermometer you have the approach can be a little different for example if you have one of those bi-metal thermometers out there you got that came with your kettle your equipment or maybe one that that you bought at the local store and you just attach it yourself a couple things that you need to keep in mind for one you need to calibrate them so there's usually like a little screw on the back that you can set the water to a boil or a certain reference temperature and then you can adjust that screw on the back of the bi-metal thermometer to calibrate it for that temperature but that's only only covered for that temperature really these bi-metal ones are not super accurate you can even once you calibrate it to a set temperature like let's say 155 degrees it'll maybe it'll be inaccurate for 175 degrees or 200 degrees or 100 degrees right so they're not the best they take a while to show their reading uh what i would recommend better than that is get an instant read digital and i'm not really talking about the like the eight dollar uh discount bin one that that you can get at walmart right i'm talking about a quality real true read instant read accurate thermometer i use a thermapen because i use it for cooking as well as brewing and it costs more money it does but it's totally worth it especially for the for the peace of mind for those of you that use brew system controllers to control your temperatures and measure them don't forget to calibrate those temperature probes your manual should come with instructions as to how to calibrate and uh and set an offset for your system so for example i have my uh my spike solo my blookman brew easy my grain father and those are the three that i have on hand here they uh i'm not sure about the grandfather now i think about it but i know the other two definitely have the ability to to set an offset so you can fill your vessel with water uh put it through a sort of a faux bruise cycle or mass cycle to get it up to your temperature use a true again instant read thermapen or other high quality thermometer to collaborate or to to corroborate the temperature that your controller is reporting and if it's different you want to make sure you offset that the that controller so when you actually think that you're at a certain temperature you really are not actually off by five degrees which can make a huge difference when it comes to mashing right okay so now we're past all the calibration stuff i know this took a while but it's all important information you all need to know this um each of these have bit me in the past so i know anyone else who's new in the brewing or those who may have been brewing for a while it might make you think a little bit about hmm i never checked that let me go take a look so please do but now it's time to get on to the actual brew system itself now that you have all these calibrated devices and vessels and dipsticks and everything else right and you know how to use your hydrometer and refractometer correctly it's time to start dialing in your brew system right and every brew system has got its own unique characteristics that you have to account for you can't just take a recipe from someone who doesn't specify what system they've rooted on or what process they use and expect it to actually come out the exact same way in your system and there's reasons for it in fact there's three main reasons for it you have to account for dead space losses absorption losses and evaporation losses all three of these sum up to making the difference whether a five gallon batch gives you five gallons worth of beer or four gallons worth of beer how many times have you tried to make a five gallon batch of beer and you end up with four gallons and you're wondering what the heck happened to the other gallon well you didn't adjust and scale your recipe accordingly to make the five gallons so the first dead space loss we want to talk about are the mashed ton water ton dead spaces and this is commonly the amount of work that is inaccessible while you're laundering to the kettle so let's say you have a mashed ton with a false bottom in it and there's a space under that false bottom that's going to be liquid but that liquid maybe might be a little lower than the valve or the siphon or whatever it means you're using to to uh extract that work from that vessel that's lost that's that's considered a loss right so you have to be able to account for that loss by adding more work or more grain to your recipe in order to make up for that and it's not unique to just false bottoms for those who use the manifold design like like me quite often it also affects you there as well an exception to this are those who are using brew in the bag type systems where your mashed ton is also the boil kettle ultimately because you put the mash pipe or mesh basket into the kettle you pull the grains out and the liquid in the bottom is what you boil those kind of systems those all in one or almost in one system as i like to call them those uh wouldn't have any match ton losses because the the dead space is already in the kettle it's there so that so that would be zero in that case but for the rest of us beware i forgot to mention uh one other exception which i'm not much talking about nowadays are those who are extract brewers uh most of what i'm talking about today are mainly around all grain brewing because that seems to be the most common type of brewing but for those who are just doing extract brewing again no loss there because you're not mashing you're just pouring powder into a boil kettle later so this stuff doesn't even apply to you then so how do you measure dead space loss in the mash tun the harder but more accurate method would be to scoop out the grains from a real brew day and fill the measuring vessel with the wort that was still on the bottom an easier but a little less accurate method which i would recommend doing if uh if you're just getting into this and not sure where to start is to pour just enough water in your mash tun to cover your drain open the drain let it naturally drain out or pump it out whatever your method is if you're using gravity or pump use that same method because you'll get slightly different uh readings from either one but the one that you do for your system do that pour that remaining water out into a again your calibrated measuring jug remember and measure that and therefore that's a starting point that you can put into your recipe it just means that you have to add that much more water to your to your total water volume maybe a little more grain because you'll have some sugar losses there as well but it gets you on the right path so other dead space losses are now in your kettle and to account for them it's very similar to the mash tun thing you pour a little bit of water in the bottom of your cuddle or more accurately on a real brew day you can actually see what's in the bottom and drain it out and pour it out but either way you do this you do it with plain water if you start from scratch or if you have an existing brew day that you want to measure from either way you let it drain all the way out you pour the remainder of the liquid into your calibrated measuring device again and get your reading there and that will tell you what to put in for your next recipe iteration similar with fermenters once you're done siphoning or racking off your work into your kegs or bottles you'll have some of that left on the bottom pour off that liquid into that calibrated measuring drug and get a reading there and that will be your fermenter loss so now you take into account the mash tun loss the boiler kettle loss and the fermenter loss you can put that all into your brewing software or your hand calc or my brewing spreadsheet or whatever you want to do and come up with an adjusted recipe that will give you those same numbers on the outputs as what the recipe is calling for good stuff huh another set of losses comes around grain and hops absorption rates grain absorption rates are more commonly talked about hops not so much but with grain absorption rates if you're doing all grain brewing and you are adding some amount of water to your mash ton and your dry cracked grains those grains are going to absorb a certain amount of of that water that water will no longer be available to you later on it's a loss so you need to account for that as well and there's some good guidelines out there some rules of thumb out there in the home brewing world commonly used ones i'm using us units again i'll convert those for you metric folks but but it's generally a half court per pound uh generally speaking traditionally now there's a lot of debate over that uh especially for those who are doing brew in the bag type brewing nowadays 20 years ago a half a quart per pound was common knowledge it was close enough today um my experiments i actually have another video i've done recently called something about grain absorption rates so um if you want to know what i'm talking about in detail go check out that video after this video but i did my own experiment with some systems to see why i was getting some odd numbers in some of my more recent brews since i started doing more brew in the bag brewing versus my traditional system which was the cooler based one and it was interesting 0.5 course per pound was good for my diy batch barge cooler system but when i got to the bo the brew in the bag systems all of them they were about roughly 0.38 cores per pound reasons for those abound not the point of this video go see that other video where i talk about that in more detail but it's something that you have to account for otherwise you'll have a smaller batch size at the end same thing for hops it's not commonly accounted for at least when i started brewing over 20 years ago hops wasn't even a consideration generally you throw an ounce of hops in on a five gallon batch maybe out of the quarter if you're feeling bold nowadays with the with today's homebrewing trends of making big big beer styles big ipas or or new uh new england satellite place where you have several ounces of hops now it comes into play and those hops absorb some of that water too so you definitely want if you're going to be using a fair amount of hops in your recipe you want to account for that loss from water absorption into the hops as well and i've done another video recently on hop absorption rates again i did an experiment i did my own little experiment i came to my own values and my own numbers to use and my recipes going forward to account for this if you haven't seen that video go check it out put a little link up here for you to go check that out and in the video description as well so after this video go check that out as well and another factor that we want to talk about is evaporation rates now common evaporation rate that everyone talks about is the boil reparation rate very big one uh you know if you get a big kettle of water or work boiling you're going to get a lot of evaporation losses there over the course of an hour to an hour and a half or longer boil you're going to lose a lot a gallon or two probably depending on how fast you're boiling this thing so you need to make adjustments for that so therefore if it's such a big factor you definitely want to get a handle on how much is really evaporating before your brew day is right so a couple ways i go about doing it if you're starting from scratch and don't have any baselines established from from past brews go ahead and pour an amount of water into your kettle uh similar to your batch size go ahead and set it to a boil at which you would normally boil it to whatever setting for your gas or electric that you need to get it to the boil that you like and time it for an hour you use the volume again a calibrated volume using your calibration device so you have your known fixed volume you boil it you measure right after post boil at the same temperature and then you have a difference there now that difference is that boil now you have to do some conversions to to scale back down to room temperature where you'll be doing your kegging and racking from right uh mama my spreadsheet can handle it i don't know about other tools maybe maybe not but that's my latest version of my spreadsheet does does do that for you and that will definitely get you uh better um in the in the ballpark is how much water you need because if you're gonna boil off a gallon a half of water or a gallon of water over an hour you want to add that gallon of water to the kettle up front and a lesser known topic about evaporation rates is around the mash it's a little experiment i did also a video on my channel i put a link to up here recently but i talked about mass evaporation rate being a factor on some systems not all of them uh so it depends on your system if you have a closed mash system with a lid that's that's all sealed up and nice and neat not a big factor but if you have a system that you mash openly without the lid on you're going to have some evaporation from that over the course of the hour or two that that you're doing your mash in there right so and it's not insignificant it does add up over that amount of time so you may want to account for that as well again using the calibrated measuring jug the reference temperatures your calibrated thermometers all that stuff in there to make sure you get a nice accurate prediction of how much is going to evaporate so you know how much more water to add at the start okay we talked about calibrating devices and how to use them to do measuring things like boil off rates evaporation rates and losses and such right one thing i haven't yet quite got to is well to me it's more of a process difference but it's also a little bit related to your equipment too so it can kind of go in either camp but it's all about extract efficiency your mash extract efficiency that you get from your mash tun and into your kettle and how much sugar that you got and rinsed out of those grains now you might have been a victim of this in the past where you get a recipe that someone handed you that looked like it was photocopied a thousand times it's all faded from 1982 or something like that or or decades over some online forum whatever right and they give you the recipe and you want to brew it because it sounded like a good recipe and but they didn't put certain important pieces of information in the recipe itself sure they got the grain bill hopped and all that but what was the assumed extract efficiency they based in the green bill of pond if they don't have it on there you're kind of hosed you have to kind of just brew it determine what the actual efficiency is and write that down and take that account in the future when you brew that batch again but if you have a an idea of what your extract efficiency is for your system and hopefully thankfully they put an extract deficiency on the recipe you can scale your grain bill and hops and water and everything in order to make sure that your outputs match what the recipe as design outputs are i've done a couple of videos on this topic in the past i'll put again i'll put links up here and in the in the video description for those but it's basic math it's just scaling things up or down based upon a percentage or a ratio not hard to do uh brewing tools will do it for you including my spreadsheet so if you're not good at math or doing ratios and things like that just use a tool but you got to keep that in mind when you do these recipes especially ones that you get from other people other places it's just one of those things that i see people ignore or don't pay attention to and they ended up not getting the same beer they expected when they started so now by this time you've done all this work you calibrate your devices you got all your losses and your your rates and all that stuff established you measured you're accurate you're confident you you are aware of what extract the efficiency is and how to scale and dial in a recipe from someone else for your needs you're on the right path you should be getting more accurate numbers if not dead nuts accurate numbers and if not that's fine too this is just a hobby again folks this is not anything to be um obsessive compulsive over unless you are naturally that way um i care because i'm an engineer i like numbers i like uh math i like going over old recipes and looking for trends and things like that and if i can't trust those numbers i don't trust the trends right so it's a personal thing for me the beer still turns out fine if i miss my numbers if you miss your numbers it'll probably be fine maybe you may not like it as much as you hope but now you then you take that lesson learned you scale up you add some more grain you add a little less hops whatever you need to do but hopefully by the lessons learned in this video you'll be well on your way to making great repetitive beers time and time again i hope you found this video interesting if you did give me that thumbs up um i really appreciate the thumbs up the algorithms love it i hope you found this video helpful if you like it give me that thumbs up for the algorithm and be sure to subscribe if you're not a subscriber i do all kinds of home brewing and cooking videos on my channel i share what i do quite openly as a matter of fact including lessons learned uh not what just what to do but also what not to do sometimes because we all make mistakes and if you have a question or comment put them in the video description down below or you can reach me on my website either way send me a note i'd like to hear from you so take care and i'll talk to y'all next time you

Channel: BEER-N-BBQ by Larry

Views: 11,554

Keywords: beer, brewing, homebrew, homebrewing, recipe, how to, tutorial, instructions, home brew, home brewing, all-grain, all grain, all grain brewing, all-grain brewing, brew system, brewing process, hydrometer, refractometer

Id: tugkC1GUEkQ

Length: 33min 31sec (2011 seconds)

Published: Wed Jul 21 2021