How to Correctly Mount a Riflescope

[Music] how to mount a rifle scope now I know this seems like a no-brainer for many people but we're gonna run through it anyway because it's such an important topic even if you have the best draft in the world and the best scope in the world if those two systems aren't connected together in a solid way you're gonna have problems or if something's not mounted in a way that aligns them correctly you're gonna have problems remember a raffle system is only as strong as its weakest point for the purposes of today's demonstration we have a ticket III with a Picatinny rail we're going to be mounting on it a Element helix six to twenty four by fifty second focal plane rifle scope and you're gonna need some tools for this I'm not going to give you specific tools because it will depend on which rings or which amount you're going to use but you will need a set of bubble levels for both the the rail and the actual scope itself you're gonna need the mounts either a two-piece or one-piece mount depends on what kind of setup you have and then the necessary tools for tightening that mount to your raffle safety first though make sure your bolt is open and your chamber is clear and we're good to go obviously you're going to need to select a pair of rings or a one-piece mount to attach the RAF script to your your raffle you can either attach those rings directly to the action of your awful if you want to do that I personally like to put a base on first to picatinny or weaver base because it gives me freedom to move those rings where I want them and space them out according to the dimensions of the rifle scope I'm using when selecting a base you have the option of choosing a tilted base with let's say 20 or 30 MOA of tilt built into it this particular base is 20 M or F tilt into it and you can also choose a tilted one-piece mount if you want I would highly suggest doing this if you're going to be using an air gun simply because at the distances that you 0 and agri net 25 to 50 meters or yards when you zero that raffle the is not going to be anywhere near its optical sent to anymore and it's important that the scope is as close to its optical center as possible because if you don't have a top-tier scope like for example the helix and tartan are not at the same level optically as the the nexus is and you're going to find that as you start going really far away from your optical center you start to lose clarity that's just the way it is but you can maintain optical clarity with the use of a tilted base or adjustable rings this will also give you significantly more elevation travel so if you plan to shoot at long range this is a good option regardless of whether you have a top-tier scope or not one thing you should never ever do is to shim your rings it can damage the body tube of your scope the surfaces on squared up and if you're applying force by tightening the Rings down onto onto a chunk set up you can really really damage your scope and you also won't have even contact or square contact with the surface of your body tube of the scope it's just a all-around bad idea instead of doing this I would suggest using something like adjustable rings if you have an air gun if you have a heavy recoiling rifle I would not suggest using adjustable rings because it's just one more thing that can come loose but there are many many options there for cancer that will tilted rather bases and mounts which will give you the desired effect without the need for shims it's also very important that you select rings that are the right heart you're going to want to make sure that the objective lense of your scope can clear the barrel you're going to want to make sure that your bolt handle doesn't make contact with your scope and it's also important that you select the right diameter so for example the helix is a 13 millimeter main tube so I'm going to select 30 millimeter rings when fitting your rings for the base you're going to want to make sure that they are more or less over the bridges of your base that will give them the most solid point of contact and what I would do before you tighten anything down is I would hold the rifle scope above the base make sure it's more or less where you want to make sure that your rings on too close together and make sure that you can put them at a good space so I'm going to keep this ring over there and I'm going to keep the back ring a little bit further back and with that I can go ahead and finger tighten them down when you do tighten them you want to make sure that they are forward in the legs so finger tighten it down but before it's too tight pushing them forward until you feel the contact and then get them down like that they don't need to be talked down properly at this point you don't want them moving but you don't tighten them down yet properly you can now go ahead and remove the the tops of your rings make sure you put them somewhere safe for you where you can't lose the the hex screws and then you can go ahead and and fit the riflescope on top make sure that everything is spread out nicely and then you can actually talk and down your the top of your rings again but very very loosely you want to make sure that you apply even pressure on both sides so that the the tops of the rings aren't sitting skew in your in your mount and you want to be able to tighten it just until you start to feel resistance you're gonna want your your scope to be able to shift forward and backwards and change side to side because we haven't set everything up for your eye relief yet or for the camped we still have a lot of things to adjust so right now these are just loose enough where I can shift the script folder backwards you don't want it so tight that it starts to scratch the anodizing in your scope you just want it to be able to move falling backwards in a way that if you let go it's not going to shift position the next step is to check your eye relief and adjust for that very very important step there many ways to do it the way I like to do it is to actually close my eyes get behind the rifle in the position that feels most comfortable to me with my my cheek on the on the cheek piece and everything and then open my eyes you're then going to want to move your scope forward and backwards until you get the best sight picture possible in this case I'm pretty much spot on now and you're going to want to do this at the maximum magnification because your eye relief will actually shift a little bit at at low magnification as well and you're most likely to have issues at Metin maximum magnification where it's less forgiving remember also that the way that you hold your often different positions might affect your eyes distance from the scope so for example if I'm lying prone might be close to the scope if I'm sitting down I might be a little bit further away so take that into account and set your scope up for the way that you want to shoot if you have a heavy recoiling rifle make sure it's not too close to your eye you know it can happen ring around your eye it happens to everyone don't worry if you're happy with the position of your scope and your rings at this point before we start adjusting the can't you can actually start talking down the Rings themselves to the base and different rings and different amounts of different talk specifications I don't exactly know the talk specifications for for these rings I'm just gonna play it but yeah but intuition is is needed here you don't want to tighten it down to the point where something breaks or snaps or gets damaged but you don't it loose enough that it starts to shift around as well so I would suggest if you can check in the torque specifications and adjusting to the talk if you don't just do somewhere in between where it start enough but not too tight to damage it that feels good I'm gonna do the same at the back there you go you'll want to make sure that your setup is free from any side-to-side can't this is especially important if you're going to be shooting extended ranges and you're going to need some some tooling for this because your eyes not going to be perfect I like to use two sets of bubble levels one that attaches to the the Picatinny rail or to your rifle in some way and that can that can tell you whether your raffle is straight and the other that can go on top of your your scope and tell you that your scope is straight what I'm gonna do on my turret is just to take the top part off to give me a flat surface I'm going to put my level down and I'm going to adjust it until everything is squared up there you go bubble level on the top centered bubble level of my raft is centered so I know my scope is good there are other ways to do the same thing some people put a plumb line downrange and then make sure that the vertical cross he lines are perfectly with the plumb line the most important thing is that if you had to extend a pretend lawn down from your vertical crosshair it should bisect the bore of your raffle perfectly so one thing I look for is I bring my head back a bit and look at the vertical crosshair I look at where my bolt is and you want to make sure that that vertical cross here would bisect where your bolt is perfectly the reason for this is that you can imagine that gravity always pushes your bullet downwards so if gravity pushes your bullet downwards you want that bullet to perfectly follow your vertical cross here all the way down otherwise you're going to have issues downrange where your point of impact is left or right and that's why we set everything for Kant one thing that can happen is if you use rings that aren't built properly or aren't built to spec the Rings could actually be offset from your mount and that would mean that even if your labels are telling you that your scope is perfectly level with your bore there could actually be offset from each other and this is going to create problems in itself so that's why you need to look for some good quality rings or good quality mount and a good quality base we almost finished the last step is the step that I hate the most you're going to have to talk down the tops of your rings but if you do this in an uneven manner then your scope could actually lose its let's count again and you can have to reset it all over again so my rule of thumb is I only like to turn no more than a quarter of a turn at a time and do this in a crisscross pattern so that you're always pushing down on one side the same as you're pushing on the other side this way if your scope does tilt slightly to the one side as you talk down the other side it'll talk back and there's a good chance that you're not going to have any issues there if you really want to make sure that these don't come loose you can use a little bit of Loctite I don't think that's necessary for a little caliber like the 22-250 but specifically for heavy recoiling rifles where things can come loose a little bit of Loctite does no harm you don't want to overdo this either again discretion is is helpful if you do have torque specs again you can use the torque specs but as long as everything is tight enough that your scope cannot physically move then you should be good and the last thing to do now is to simply confirm that when you've tightened down nothing has shifted to one side or the other so I'm gonna put my level back on and it's perfectly centered we're all good well that's the end of today's video on mounting of course you'll need to 0 the scope after that but we'll leave that to a completely separate video it's a whole topic in itself if you want to learn more you can subscribe to our channel down below or you can follow us on on social media Instagram and Facebook or you can ask us questions directly through email or through social media teen as a personal message thanks for watching we'll see you guys next time [Music] you

Channel: AirArmsHuntingSA

Views: 72,148

Keywords: riflescope, mounting, scope setup, element optics, element helix, matt dubber, long range, precision rifle

Id: YtguiDOtW-c

Length: 11min 54sec (714 seconds)

Published: Wed Jun 03 2020