How TO Calibrate The Esteps On A Direct Drive Extruder The EASY Way!

recently i did a video about calibrating the e-steps on a 3d printer i got a lot of comments asking how to do it on a direct drive extruder today that's what we're gonna do i'm jim and this is the edge of tech calibrating your e-steps is a very important part to getting your 3d printer dialed in most of the videos you can find out there show it being done with a bowden drive system just like this video right here but today i'm going to show you how to do it with a direct drive extruder and i'm going to be using the ender 3s1 pro to demonstrate that so i'm going to make this pretty quick and easy for you let's do it first let's heat up our printer to 210 degrees and if you don't already have filament loaded push filament in the top of the extruder and push it out so it starts coming out the bottom now this next part is a little bit tricky you want to take a millimeter ruler or a caliper and you want to hold it right at the top of your extruder and come up to 100 millimeters mark that with a sharpie right at 100 millimeters and what you should end up with is it's very hard to see on camera but there's a sharpie mark right at 100 millimeters right there then what you want to do is measure that again at 120 millimeters so there's about 120 millimeters right here we'll measure it again so we have one at 100 millimeters here one at 120 millimeters there and you should end up with filament with two black marks right here from your sharpie kind of hard to see that on the camera but i promise they're there now what you want to do is tell your printer to extrude 100 millimeters in this case i go to ready in and out i choose the in and i type in 100 millimeters so it says 100 millimeters and when i'm ready i'll hit this check mark once you do that the printer will start extruding and pulling in 100 millimeters and pushing it out through the hot end you're getting value from today's video please smash that like button it really helps the video get pushed all around further into the community on youtube and helps show more people as well i really appreciate it now back to it so when it's done you'll see that you'll have two lines here and a lot of times if you make the sharpie mark thin enough you won't see this bottom line or it'll be just into the extruder which is what you want that'll be 100 millimeters in my case i used a big sharpie and kind of made a mess of that line but it did go the 100 millimeters i see the little extra mark i made and it's right there so that's what we want to see that means it pulled in 100 millimeters if your first line was way out of the extruder like that still that means you under extrude it so what you would do is take your ruler hold it up to the extruder like so and measure from the extruder up to that first line in this case it looks like it would be roughly 10 millimeters or seven millimeters or so so what that means is we told the machine to extrude 100 millimeters and it only extruded 93 because you would subtract how many millimeters are left in here so if we had 7 you'd take 100 minus 7 would be 93. to look at this another way if your first line was completely buried and you don't see it anywhere there and you measured remember our second line should have been 20 millimeters that's the second line we did it's hard to see in the camera there but it's there so if you measure this and it's anything less than 20 millimeters that means we over extruded in this case it looks like i was at roughly 13 millimeters because i know that the top of my line is 20 millimeters there 12 to 13. so so in this case this would say i over extruded so what you would do is see how much you over extruded by measuring from your line down to the extruder and adding that to 100. so in this case it's roughly 12 millimeters so we would take that eight plus 100 and it would be 108 and that's the number we would use here so ideally like i show you just see your 100 millimeter line right here and this line still measures 20 millimeters and you're good anything more it over extruded anything less and under extruded the next thing we need to do is get the current e-steps from the printer and i like to use pronterface if the printer does not allow you to do it right from the control panel in this case the ender 3s1 pro you can't see the current steps right from the control panel so we need to plug the printer in via usb then open up your slicer or in my case pronterface here come up to the com port that it's on in my case com3 will hit the connect button it'll connect then i just slid this big window over so our window over here is larger i come down and i type m503 and hit enter when i do that what we need to look for is the line right here that says m92 and then a bunch of numbers in this case we're looking for the e so the e is your extruder steps it is 424.90 so our extruder steps on this direct drive extruder are 424.90 now that we have the current e-steps we want to pop on to the th3d easy calculator version 1.1 this is the website the link will be in the description below and we need to enter our current e-steps right here in our case i believe it was 424.90 then what we need to do is enter the extruded actual extruded length when we measured we were on at 100 you may not be but in our case we were so we'll just put 100 and if you come down here it'll give you the new value that you should be using so for argument's sake in this video if you got maybe 95 e-steps you found that it underextruded you would enter 95 and it would give you a brand new value in this case 447.26 maybe you over extruded and you got 105 instead of 100 then you get 404.67 either way it's going to give you your brand new e-step value right here in our case we didn't get anything different so we're going to use 100 and that'll be 424.90 just like we got now if you notice down here it'll show you the new m92 command that we need to use in our case because we cannot do this straight from the control panel if we need to do this from the control panel you just go into the control panel cycle over to where you can find your e-steps program them and then save it in our case we have to do it just like we showed you we're going to use pronterface so copy this m92 e42490 then what we want to do is go back to pronterface go into our little box and paste that so when we paste that command it'll send the command over to the printer to find out if that worked we can do an m503 and when you find that line that says m92 on it right here look for your e number it will tell you if you've programmed it or not so in our case we stuck with the 424.90 if yours changed it'll have a new number right here and the last thing you want to do if you change your extruder steps is to make sure you save it if we go back to th 3d's website right here it says what we want to do is save to the eprom by sending m 500 after using the above command so in pronterface you would just type m500 hit ok and it's stored settings stored after you saved your settings or put these into the control panel on the printer and saved them you're good that's all you have to do your e-steps are now updated all said and done once your printer is heated up this should only take roughly 10 minutes to do the whole process it's super fast and super easy once you do it once i highly recommend you doing it one more time just to make sure that 100 millimeters gets extruded when you tell the machine to do 100 millimeters if not run the numbers one more time and make that adjustment and just check it again when you're done let me know in the comments what you think of that th3d calculator site i think it's awesome the less math that i have to do the better and it really makes the process like this super easy calibrating the e-steps is one step to getting your hot end dialed in but there's something else you need to do next to make sure that the filament is flowing exactly how you want it check out this video right here to get your hot end completely dialed in and printing the best it can

Channel: The Edge of Tech

Views: 122,260

Keywords: Check This ASAP If You Have A Direct Drive Extruder!, e steps calibration, esteps calibration, ender 2 pro esteps calibration, 3d printer calibration, 3d printer calibration tool, 3d printer calibration calculator, e steps calculation, th3d esteps calculator, calculating e steps, how to calculate e steps, how to calculate e steps ender 3, the edge of tech e steps, how to calibrate e steps on a 3d printer, 3d printer, 3d printing, e steps, ender 3 s1 pro, ender s1 pro, creality

Id: TZYdqSUn5E4

Length: 9min 9sec (549 seconds)

Published: Sun Apr 24 2022