How To Build An Oak Dining Table To Last Generation . Plans Available

start a new project no matter how big or small i like to break it down into a few different sections so in this case for the dining table section one is going to be the two a-frames of the base section two is going to be the lower stretch of the spans the two a-frames three is going to be the stretcher on top that connects the base to the underside of the top and then section four is going to be the top of the dining table itself and for the material of this dining table i'm gonna be making it out of this stack of eight quarter which is two inches thick solid white oak and although the dining table that i'm starting today has a fairly detailed base it's the top of the dining table that gets most of the attention so to kick off this project i'm going to go for the stack of white oak and pick out the better pieces out of the pile the ones with the nicest grains just the ones that stand out to me the most which i think are gonna look really nice then i'm gonna set them aside till later in the project so that i can prioritize the nicest timbers in the pack for the top of the table so with all this material set aside for the top of the dining table with the remaining lumber i'm going to start marking out all the components for the base itself [Music] so to make the most out of my material i like to prioritize the straighter flatter pieces of lumber for the longer pieces in the base for instance the bottom rail and the top support rails and then with the twisted pieces the ones that have a little bit of bow here and there i can break them down into the smaller sections and use those on the smaller sections of the base that way i can get the most out of my material because white oak is not cheap so now that all the individual components of the base are all roughly marked down i can now take it over to the boneyard and get it broken down on my bandsaw [Music] and then put it through the jointer to get it nice and flat and then through the planer to get it to the thickness that i need and then i cut each piece to its individual width on my table saw [Music] okay so now all my parts are milled up for my base to the size and thickness that i want for now i'm going to put aside the long stretches and make a start on the a-frame so with the two a-frames either side of the base there's one component that's slightly different to the rest and that's this lower horizontal section and the reason for that is because it's double the thickness and the reason why it's double the thickness is so that it can support that big long lower stretcher that spans the distance between the two a-frames as well as being flushed with the a-frames itself and that's going to make more sense as we kind of get further into this so you just gonna have to trust me for now so to get things rolling i glued and clamped two above mesh pieces together to form a three inch by three inch section [Music] then i let it dry for a couple of hours [Music] and then meanwhile while they're drying i can go ahead and start cutting the rest of the pieces for the a-frames so i've gone ahead and marked and cut out the two top sections of the a-frame precise i then cut a 45 degree bevel on each end to kind of give it a bit of a cleaner look [Music] so next i can make a start on the side pieces and these are a little bit more difficult than the rest because they're on a bit of an angle so in order for them to stand at an angle and sit nice with the top rail i've designed it so i have to cut an 80 degree angle at the top of each piece so i set the angle of my blade on my table saw to 80 degrees and then on my cross cut sled i cut the top of each piece to that angle [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] so now that these are cut at the tops to sit at a 10 degree angle in order for them to sit nice on the ground i need to cut the same 80 degree angle at the bottom so next i made a mark at the bottom of my leg at 27.5 inches which will ultimately set me at a 30 inch high table and then over on my table saw i cut the 80 degree angle at those marks [Music] so now most of the parts of the a-frame are cut i can now start dry assembling it together and to do so i'm going to using my abdominal cutter so i made a couple of marks at four and three quarter inches in from either end on the underside of the top section and then using my domino cutter i cut a couple of dominoes into the top of the legs and the underside of the top section joining the two together [Applause] [Applause] and then for now i can put these aside and start finishing off the work on these lower braces now that these are dried i can take them back out of the clamps and i'm going to put them back through the jointer to clean up any of the edges and then put them back through the planer to bring them to exactly three inches by three inches square [Music] so now that these are milled up to the thickness that i want it's now time to cut them down to the length so i marked out the length on each piece with an 80 degree angle on each end and as these are a little bit too thick to cut through on my table saw i'm going to have to cut them down on my miter saw all right so now that these lower supports are cut to length i now got to cut out a rabbet to allow for that long lower beam that spans the two a-frames to kind of sit into so i made a couple of marks three inches apart and one inches deep dead center of the lower support brace and then i hogged out most of the material on my table saw [Music] [Laughter] [Music] and then cleaned up with a sharp chisel okay so now all the parts are cut for the a-frames i just got to add a few dominoes in these joints here to help with alignment [Applause] and then i can glue and clamp these together and let them dry for a few hours so once they'd fully dried and then took them back out of the clamps and then put them aside so then i can make a start on the stretchers which span the two so to kick things off with the stretches i'm going to make a start on the lower one and the lower one is kind of similar to the lower part of the a-frame to which is double the thickness so again similar to before i grab the two long bookmatch pieces that we milled up before and then glued and clamped them together and let them dry for a couple of hours [Music] and then meanwhile while this is drying i can build out the top stretches so i grab the two longest lengths out of the pack that i milled up prior and then cut them down to the length that i required at 69 inches on my table saw and then once they were cut to length i then dominoed them to the inside top section of the a-frame four and three-quarters inches in from either end now that the stretches are attached it's actually starting to look like a base from the dining table so next i want to add some more i guess stretches going the opposite way which overhang a little bit so that i have more points of contact to the top and the base basically i want to have a wider area for the base to be fixed down to to help it keep it nice and flat over a longer period of time and in order to do that i marked out three rabbets equally distanced apart on both of the rails at two inches wide by three quarter inches deep to create a little seat for these extra pieces to sit into i then hogged out most of the material on my table saw and then cleaned up with a sharp chisel so now that all the rabbits are cut in both of the rails i have these two by ones that fit nice and snug inside of them so now what i'm gonna do is cut the two by ones to length and i'm gonna put a bevel on each of the ends to kind of match the ends of the a-frame and give it a bit more of a decorative look i also cut a quarter inch rabbet on either end of the 2x1 so that i'm not removing too much material out of the side rails here and ultimately when it comes together it sits nice and flush boom and now that this bottom rail has fully dried i can now take it back out of the clamps clean up any of the glue residue which is super super satisfying take it back over to the boneyard and mill it up to three inches by three inches squared and then once that's done i can bring it back into the studio and get it cut to length on my miter saw and then now that it's cut i also went ahead and cut out a notch on the underside of the lower stretcher so that way the two can kind of cradle each other and it sits a little bit lower on the brace here so with this lower stretcher that spans the two a-frames it sits at the perfect height where people may potentially be resting their feet on it and as it sits right now this corner is kind of uncomfortable so naturally i would round the corners off but there's no profiles on this base that has that kind of round over on it so it's gonna stand out so we need to find a way to create something in between how it sits right now and a big round over so i found this thumbnail round a bit which compared to a traditional round over it's obviously a lot less subtle and it's not designed for the profile that i'm trying to create but i feel like i can make it work so i set the height of the router bit in my router table and then adjusted the fence right over so it sits on the most subtle part of the blade and then all i got to do is with each pass through the red table is adjust the fence over until i'm happy with the profile [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] so now with all the parts of the base assembled i can finely glue it together [Music] to [Music] so now while the table base is drying in the clamps there we can finally make a start on the dining table top so i grabbed the pack of lumber which we set aside earlier on in this video and then put each piece through the jointer to get it nice and flat and then through the planer like before to bring them all down to equal thicknesses [Applause] and then pull them back over to the studio to cut them down on my table saw to equal widths at around 6 inches [Music] all right so now that the pack of lumber that we set aside for the top has all been milled up and it's looking sweet there's some real nice boards in here before i glue it up there's a couple things that i like to do so with the top itself i like to kind of blend in all the different colors and tones so for instance i'm lighter in the middle here then it will drift a little bit darker on the edges and i usually like to have a couple of extra boards to kind of pick from so that i can toss out the ones that don't really fit in and you just have more opportunity to get a nice flow of color but i'm really happy with how this is looking so on to the next step so as well as getting colors and tones flowing on the top you also have to consider what i like to call happy face sad face so each one of the end grains here you can see that the grain flows in a certain direction and i've orientated them so it goes happy face sad face happy face sad face happy face and so on and so forth if they were all going in the same direction potentially over time your tabletop can cut in that direction and you could somewhat have a bit of a half pipe for a dining table which sounds pretty cool but it's not what i'm going for right now so here i've orientated each one so if there is any movement or cupping it should pretty much level itself out not that i'm really worried about this kiln-dried white oak it doesn't really tend to move that much but it's a good practice to do so now i have all the boards lined up i want to throw in some dominoes to help with alignment and then i got a glue and clamp and let it dry overnight [Music] okay so it's the very next day and this beast has fully dried so i can take it back out of the clamps and then give it a good sand so now that the table top has been rough sanded on the top and the underneath i now need to cut it to size and i'm happy with the width i can just clean that up when i come to do the finished sand so all i have to do is cut it down to the length so instead of cutting the ends of the table nice and square with my track saw like a normal person i'm going to make it a little bit more difficult for myself so on each end i want to create a little bit of a curve only ever so slightly though so that's why i made this jig it's basically from the center the high point of the curve is only a one inch difference to the lowest point so it's nice and subtle so i'll mark the curve on each end of the table top and then cut off the excess about 1 8 of an inch away from the line with my jigsaw i then clamped the jig to the table top and then took off the remaining material with a flush bit in my router [Music] and now that the shallow curves are cut on each end the top is now cut to the length that i want so all i'm going to do now is flip the top over oh my god oh that is heavy and then connect it to the base using threaded inserts [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] so now that the table is pretty much complete all i really have to do now is strip it back down give the base the top a really good finish sand all the way up to 320 grit and break away any of the sharp edges by hand and give it two good coats of osmo oil finish [Music] you [Music]

Channel: Rad Dad Builds

Views: 111,250

Keywords: dining table design, dining table makeover, dining table diy, dining table set, dining table build, dining table decor, dining table chair, oak table top, oak table, oak table build, oak table diy, oak table finish, table base diy, table base plans, table base ideas diy, woodworking tips and tricks, woodworking tips tricks and secrets, joinery work, joinery and carpentry, joinery workshop, shop tour 2022, house tour 2022, makeover, diy projects for home, farmhouse decor

Id: EPmUGU9c9wQ

Length: 18min 35sec (1115 seconds)

Published: Tue Jun 21 2022

Reddit Comments

[u/NexusNL]

Nice design! Subbed, keep it up 🤙