How to build a warm roof. A step by step guide to the BEST warm roof on YouTube.

hello everybody I hope you're well first and foremost a massive thank you to hellofresh for sponsoring this video more about them a little bit later on now the whole point of this video is to condense our previous two videos down to much smaller bite side junks of exactly how to build a warm deck roof it's all going to be chaptered we realize that our videos they're quite long they're 40 minutes plus we make no apologies for that that's the kind of soft we like to produce however we realize that if you're on site or you want a you got a project coming up and you want a quick YouTube of how to do something in you really want it in a much smaller condensed version well this is it so we're going to crack straight on with it then of how to build a warm deck roof with the best possible thermal efficiency so the first thing I thought that I'd explain to you is the fact that the construction of the flat roof is just a construction of a flat roof there's nothing about it that denotes whether it's a warm or a cold deck it's everything you do from this point onwards in which case obviously this one's going to be a warm deck now what I'm just pointing to there is pieces of Pi R insulation that we found in between all the rafters that's because the internal skin of our parit wall is going to be insulated Timber and obviously the external wall as you can see is block work now all that will be explained at the end of the video when we go through the theory of why we've done everything that is that we've done but for the time being we're just going to talk through the actual stages from this point on of a warm deck construction stage one the bottom deck we use 15 mil OSB here you can use 18 mil if you like a lot of people like to use 18 mil because they want to screw their top deck down straight through into that 18 mil OSB at the bottom we don't do that we go straight into the rafters we find that better and we'll explain why at the end of the video now all we're doing here is just filling in that roof structure with OSB that's all it is now here we're adding a little thermal element to the internal skin which is going to be timber for our parit wall um just by lighting some foam down yes it's mechanically fixed as well and then what we're doing here is creating a simple ladder frame which we will insulate and clad in OSB later on and this is how we toed our external block work into our internal ladder frame just wall to built in as standard and then just Penny washed and screwed through and this is the very nearly finished products of stage one all you basically do as I said earlier you just fill in that complete dep with OSB be 15 mil 18 mil whatever you choose and get it just complete and as full as you possibly can any gaps why not give it a little bit of foam it certainly won't hurt and then we're on to stage two stage two fer barrier extremely important phase This Is Now by all means shop around get the best deal that you can it's expensive stuff no matter where you go that's what we found this particular product is from seeka the only difference with this that we found with other products is this is foil side down which extremely sticky it works a treat no primer needed as you can see there we're going around getting the upstands up at least to the top of the insulation in which case this is 150 mm and then we're covering every square millimeter of stage one you've got to go over it you've got to get as flat as possible um 100 uh 100 Mil overlap where possible just go for it cover it and cover it again it's that important and as you can see here this is the finished product now what we need to do because this that time of the video is have a quick word of our sponsors which is this week hellofresh now what hellofresh don't know and I won't know till I see this video is that we as a family have been a customer of their for quite a while now the whole concept just works for us we simply go onto their website choose what meals that 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2024 that means that we have to use 150 mm of P foil backed insulation that's where our building inspector has told us and that's what we've got to do if you're told any difference or if you read any difference that's fair enough but this is what we've been told and that's what we've got to use and this is quite an easy satisfying process you just lay it down on top of your Vapor Barrier and Away you go any gaps again foam if you need to but we tape all the joints as well trying to keep it as airtight as possible for those who are interested that tool there that Richard's using is his Fest tool insulation cutter it's an expensive piece of kit that its sole job just to cut insulation but it really does give a perfect cut every single time nice and square makes the process incredibly easy and you just carry on and you just go straight over phase two with the installation all the way around and you can see there The Vapor Barrier just sticking up just just above it because that's how high that we've got to go and you just carry on it's it's simple really as it looks you get nice and tight get it all on there and don't forget to take those joints and here you can see all the joints are typed and we're ready to go onto stage four stage four the final stage the top deck this is 11 mil OSB fix down straight on top of your installation straight through down into the rafters that's very very important that's what we find anyway we do not go into the bottom layer of OSB now again this is a very simple process but you can get it rung simply by using the wrong fixings now we think that it is essential that you use firmly broken fixings in order to do this now we'll put them on screen now for you we got them off the internet they are 100 Mil thick and we use a 100 Mil screw these screws were especially with them except we found that 100 Mil coar thread drywall screw works just as well and also at the end of this video we'll give you some hints and tips about how to fix them down I think you're supposed to use about 12 per board that's well over 100 fixings in this roof don't spare on them but make sure you use those fixings and that you go straight into the rafter not the OSB below and here's some finished products now this is the uh pre- top coat of the grp and then coming up now is the final JP top coat with the glass installed and that is basically well there you go four easy steps really quite simple but there's a few pitfalls along the way if you fall into them you won't get it as firmly efficient as it possibly can be and that is the whole point you got to get things nice and tight get that insulation in there make sure you use the right amount for a start use the correct Vapor Barrier definitely use those firmly broken fixings into the rafters and once you've used them before you roof it fill the hole up just the hole that the screw goes through fill that up a bit of filler silicon foam whatever you want what we don't want is that to be a air gap that can contract and expand over the years and cause whatever ever roof you pour over it to fail now what we're going to go into now which is going to explain a couple of hints and tips regarding fixing down those firmly broken fixings and then we're going to go into the theory of why we've used the internal Timber parit wall and also the whole process of fixing those fly broken fixings into the rafters why that's so important right then we're uh coming to our finishing stages with the fixing the top piece of P down you'll see on here if you you can see it on the camera you can see the lines and what these lines represent are the joists or the flat roof Rafters whichever you want to call them um underneath the insulation cuz in order for these to work right and add them will go into it later on uh I think these need to go into your into your your substructure not just into your plywood because what happens is these drop into there like that and sticks at the bottom so if you imagine then you've got your uh 161 mil which is your 50 mil and your 11 mil on top and then your 18 mil we sort of into the ply but if you just put it anywhere you want my opinion is all this these ends to out the bottom of the ploy and that negates using one of these thermal fixings so anyway Adam we go into that a bit more later on so I've marked all my flat refractors on here I've made sure all my centers work then what I'll do is just a bit of a tip tips for you when you fit in these I then get a big uh Brad Point bit the width of that draw my hole like that so I drip that nice and um upright if I can and then if I can get my hammer from somewhere whereever I put it oh thank you thank you very much Michael Michael in the background is fitting all these Trims on as well getting ready for fiberglass so you just make sure it's all clear all clean and then knock these in make sure they're sit and flush and then the main thing with these is um you can get special screws for these cuz they got a smaller head what you don't want to do is do it with an impactor because you can pull these straight through if you imagine this now looking at that you can see it's slightly cone shaped you can pull that straight through the bottom of there and it doesn't fix it so what I tend to do is turn my drill down number one and use a normal drill and then I just let me just go back a little bit what I do is I then put a bit of tape on there like that so I can sort of see where my depth is so I don't go too far can you see that and then what I'll do then is I'll know then where I am so I'll just take it nice and steady and if you then if you're about to see on this Bol but you can see it pulling in and that's when you want to stop you see that pulling in on the camera I don't know if you can but if you can't you can see it pulling in and then you just stop that's all you need um you know you've got it then you know the fixing is done um so that's just a couple tips for you really uh you need need to make sure you you set out properly and then the ideal is you need about 12 per board but that's based on 600 centers we've done 400 centers so we've put more fixings down which isn't going to be detrimental but uh I'm pretty sure the manufacturers say that it should be 12 per 8T by 4T board 2 440 1220 there we are I just wanted to show you this because this is a great visual example of what we're trying to achieve here that ice cream band's going to bit quicker it bus um we've got our thermal Mass if you like with the thermalite wall and then that then is continued up with the p in between the rafters and then continued up again into the parit and then we've insulated all the parit right way to the very top and I'll just put a a bit of footage on the screen now of tying the ties in or screwing the ties in into the side of the uprights so the external block work is now tied in I mean to the m degree really into this timber frame at the back of it which is insulated right to the very top and then sealed off firmly not not water tight or anything but sealed off with P along the top and then foamed in now for the reason for that is where any warm air warm air warm air meets cold air we want that to be out of the roof we want it to be as high up as possible not down air we're worried that if we don't insulate this parit then that bit there is going to be cold there or top of the roof will be cold there and then it will meet the warm air from the room and then it will start to condensate and cause issues and sweat and do all that sort of stuff further on down it might take years to come through but it will do eventually that's what we're worried about so we've insulated all that now you let us know whether we've G to above and beyond and insulated that for absolutely No Good Reason by all means put in the comments and we'll learn a bit from it but B on braces it can't do any harm in doing that because where the cold air meets the warm air now it can only be up here which is xive millim outside of the fabric of the building which is good we think I think it's excellent and that's what we've done that wall there I'll explain a little bit later I'll move out Rich's way so we can crack on but yes that's that's why we've done done it the way that we've done it if we'd come up here in masonry so to speak and then not put that wall plate in and then continue this up in BL work then the inside wall becomes an outside wall and then that due point or where that cold air mix of warm a will be at this level here which again will cause the issues that we're trying to negate by doing what we've done here so we think that this is a much firmly efficient better way of doing things whether or not we've you know over egged the pudding we don't know but we certainly haven't underere egged it which is what we want no no no we haven't done anything toal now where this is slightly different as you can as you remember the rafters go this way P come this way over here there's a rafter to come here and then the LOL so there's nothing here to to do now what we could have timbered across laded out if you like and done it exactly the same but we thought that we can come straight off the lintle in the block work and come up to this height um because the lintle downstairs is a steel not a ltil so there's no thermal break in that steel we have to put it in later by insulating the back of it by insulating the back of it then we've got to insulate the entire wall to bring it out orbe it's only a couple of it's only coule mil either side uh for the reveals that then will land that wall off firmly past this point here so the firm will it'll be firm it'll be what am I trying to say it'll be firmly efficient all the way up CU don't forget we've got 150 mil of insulation to go to that that point there the thermal uh plaster board will come to about here we've got the Viper barrier to go in between so we think that that's that's good and hopefully hopefully it will be right then we're just going to have a quick mark up here and just to explain hopefully the best I can as to why we think that these fixings these firly broken fixings are superior to any other fixing when it comes to warm deck roof the whole point of a warm deck roof obviously is the insulation properties that it gives you they are much better than the cold roof much easier than the cold roof we're going to go all into that next week when we actually build one which is going to be down there anyway so what we've got here then we're going to pretend that these are our Rafters now on top of that you have the diminishing buttons all that sort of stuff which we're not going to do for this however these are our Rafters on top of that we've used 50 mil OSB we've got our um Viper barrier there 150 mil insulation which is to build in RS uh as they are in England 2024 where we are now depending where and when you're watching this video and on top of that we've got 11 m USB and then a firmly broken fixing straight through now Richard explained earlier why it's important that we find our Rafters uh when we're fixing these uh fixing fixing these fixings through and the reason for that as he said obviously get a much better fixing should that actual screw go into the actual real Timber it's a much better fit of course it is right however from a firal point of view one of the reasons why we like to find the rafters as as well is that as you can see there and that isn't particularly tight I haven't done that on purpose that's 100 Mil drywall screw we'll go into why we've use that in a second as you can see there that's not the perfect fit it's not down properly so I haven't give it the the Billy big licks going straight into it that's just the way it is right now as a fixing that is fine in a warm deck that's fine however a lot of Faith by doing it that way has been put into the vapor barrier now apparently these vapor barriers self seal you put a screw through it it seals it up it's like a bitchman kind of thing it seals itself so that therefore it's still doing its job even with a hole through it the vior from the room reaches that barrier and it can't go any further and it keeps all that heat all that energy in the room that you're Heating and paying for that's the theory however how many fixings on this roof Rich uh it's got to be more than 100 I reckon more than 100 and this roof is isn't that big really no if we were to drill or screw through a 100 holes through a Viper barrier and just wherever we wanted to put them we would didn't find a single rafter are we really suggesting that every single one of those holes are self-sealed and that Viper barrier is as good as it was before we put anything through at all I don't know for definite and I'm not going to put my faith in it 100% so we like to we like to find our Rafters thus giving it a better chance of that heat that energy energ coming up through that moisture coming through and not been able to get through the Viper barrier because in theory where that Viper barrier spans the rafters it's untouched there's no holes through it thus being as firmly efficient as it can possibly be now if you didn't do it the top that screw is around about there so you've got metal there obviously through the screw the heat comes up it hits that metal it travels through and then it gets to around about argument s round about there that is where the warm air will meet the cold air it will be within the insulation and that's perfectly fine but we just think if you find the rafter we think it's better you're not putting so much faith in that being self sealing and you are just it's that extra little bit just to give that peace of mind that you are doing the best you possibly can to keep those heating costs down now there are fixings on the market um quite readily available huge screws just go straight through finish the top of the deck and they go straight through either in the ra or into that bottom deck down there there's also Nails shoes Nails little twis things I hammer straight through and I pull it down and I fix it down lovely however what you've then just done is create a pathway of this metal straight through from the warm air of the room straight to the very top of the roof and that energy is just going to go straight through as I say this one has got at least 100 so if you can imagine putting aund trying to get it spend all all the money on insallation all the money on the vior barrier doing everything and then you're hammering or or screwing down over a 100 metal rods that bridge the gap from the warm air to the cold air you've just you you might as well have have not done it yes you put all that insulation it's going to do something but this is all about being the best as it possibly can be it's expensive stuff and if you're going to buy it if you're going to do something let's just try and be as best as as we can be if it a bit of research to building regs a bit of Common Sense hopefully what we've done here as I say is the best that it can be and keep those heating costs down because they ain't going down by themselves so if you can put a little bit of heat in the room and does as much as it possibly can it stays there we think that's all the best what do you think and also just lessen the the chance of condensation as well cuz like you say you've got metal going all the way through puncturing into that void there between your Afters and you've got loud to cold your cold metal heat hitting the cold metal is it going to form concentation you don't know do you so no this way we think is just what you think we don't think we've hit we've missed any Rafters so as I say the gap between the rafters has got un compromised Vapor Barrier through the entire build here yeah again 150 Mill installation without onp fly broken fixings any air any moist C through is only going to get to about there not to the very top what more can we say what more can we do what more can we do but that's why we've that's why we've Source that's a sour stem and that's why we did done exactly what we've just done you got to compromise on the Finish as I explained earlier because you will see those that will be a bump in the in the road so to speak um you you you won't get you can't counter sync them if you counter sync them they'll be no meat there left at all to actually hold this thing down so that is as it's flush there that is how it is and there's nothing you can do about that but again fill it fill those up I reckon um fill those holes up with seiling to do something just try and get the air out because especially if for grp in it that is going to expand contract and it could cause an issue further on down the line but however I think I think that's it put it in the comments if you think it's if it's nonsense or it's uh it's done it wrong or could be done better always willing to learn mate nice one well there you have it end the video hopefully you found that interesting you learned some from it now if you want to do more videos like this by all means let us know and we know that they're re-edited from other videos but we really want to try and create something that if you just need that information you can just go to and get it about specific subjects thank you to hellofresh for sponsoring this video really really appreciate it can't recommend them enough free puddings as well excellent and until next time take care [Applause] [Music]

Channel: MR A BUILDERS

Views: 7,546

Keywords: hello fresh, Mr a builders, the basement build, warm roof, how to, thermally broken fixings

Id: -6VaoOIENlQ

Length: 24min 9sec (1449 seconds)

Published: Tue Apr 30 2024