How to Build a 700whp 6.0 LS

so tonight we're gonna be working on this uh race motor for the single cab it's a six liter that i picked up out of a junkyard this motor's already been through a fire so i figure it's probably heat treated the boards don't look too bad you can't really see there's a little bit of rust in these boards so i'm going to pull the pistons out and uh give it a home but it's really the bores are really pretty clean so there's no not even a ridge on them so i'm probably going to gap the rings to about 30 thousandths and then i've got this cam which is out of the 5.3 that was in the truck last year i made 587 to the tire with this and these comp cams 1.72 ratio roller rockers these are actually out of my gto so they've been in like three different motors already and then i'm probably gonna get another set of push rods because a couple of these are bent i'm gonna pull these pistons out and we're gonna get to work [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] all right well all the uh the boards are honed they're looking pretty good i'm gonna clean them up tomorrow and uh the pistons are all soaked in there and a big bucket of lacquer thinners all right guys so i'm finally getting back to this build uh what i've ended up doing is just taking a microfiber and some soap and water and just scrubbing all these boards out super well honing an engine will uh impregnate quite a bit of grit into the sides of the board so you want to make sure they're super clean but we've got that done uh i got some new rings um for the pistons because i wound up breaking a couple of the rings so we're gonna go ahead and uh get this thing all put together one thing i wanted to show you guys real quick these rockers have been through about three different engines and the first engine that they were in was my uh ls2 and my pontiac gto and i put a pretty big cam in with factory valve covers and they'll actually hit the uh the top of the or the rivets on the baffle so i had to take those out i think they'll be fine with this cam but we'll see but all the wear surfaces look pretty good so i'm just going to go ahead and throw them in and use them now this is a pretty low buck build but i am using these arp rod bolts so we're going to be using these on on these connecting rods this is actually a gen 4 rotating assembly in a gen 3 block so they should hold up fairly well all right so i'm using uh lucas oil stabilizer as a pre-lube on the stock bearings i've marked this as piston number one i marked all these pistons when i took them out so i'm going to be putting them putting it in here this little dot is supposed to be oriented towards the front of the engine when you install these all right so i got my connecting rod cap here and i got the arp bolts installed and i've got uh arp ultra torque assembly lube on them so i'm going to drop it in there and torque it to 45 foot-pounds these rod caps only go on one way and if you ever get stuck you can see the little uh notches right there for the bearings all you have to do is look at the uh look at the cap you see where those notches are on the cap you just match those up to the uh the rod and it fits on there perfectly one other thing i just wanted to mention the the gaps on the rings right here are supposed to be um 180 degrees out so you can see i've got that about right there most people use a piston ring compressor uh to install their pistons but i'm just going to slam them in and send it [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] all right so now that we've got our cam in i'm going to be installing this cam plate there's your part number right there i'll try to find a link for it and put it in the description but basically this plate just bolts on the front right here i believe you torque these screws to 18 foot-pounds and if you get uh this type of screw the recessed torx you can use them on all years of ls now i always get a new one of these whenever i do a cam swap and the reason is this it's got a little gasket that goes um right here around these two holes which is where your oil is going to be flowing through and if you don't change that there is a pretty good possibility that you might have an internal oil leak you might still have good oil pressure but it's still going to be leaking oil so i always get a new one they're like 15 or 20 bucks they're not too expensive so it's really not worth it to try to reuse the old one these are uh they take a t-40 and they're supposed to be torqued to 18 foot-pounds [Music] i've got my dowel pin of my camshaft at the three o'clock position and i've got a fresh timing chain i'm going to throw this on as these ls's are super easy to set initial timing on all you have to do on the small timing gear you want to have this little dot right there uh pointed straight up and you want it to match up with this notch on the cam gear while the number one piston right here which would be the front right if you're facing the motor um you want to make sure the number one piston is all the way up at top dead center and that's it initial timing set now that we got our timing where we it to be i'm going to install these bolts it's three camshaft retaining bolts i always put a little tiny little dab of red loctite on them and torque them to 26 foot-pounds all right so the next thing we're going to do is we're going to put in our lifters so i've got these brand new lifter trays uh since this motor went through a fire i decided it might be better to just get some brand new ones and i've got three lifters already installed i've had these lifters soaking in royal purple for about two weeks um you don't have to do them for that long just a couple hours it's fine basically you'll just make sure the flat part of the lifter corresponds to the flat part of the tray and just slide it right in there and then to install them flip it around so that these ridges are on top and again take your lifter retaining bolt throw it in there and uh the torque spec on it is 106 inch pounds but i'm just gonna snug it down until it feels about right you don't want to get these too tight because they are pretty easy to snap off we're going to call that about 106 inch pounds [Music] [Music] all right so it's time to put our heads on now one thing i am pretty picky about is the head gasket mating surface on the block and the heads um if you don't have that clean it's just an extra point of failure so i try to get this as clean as possible i usually go over it multiple times with a razor blade and just make sure that everything's as smooth and clean as it can get and then hit it a couple times with brake clean then i usually blow out all these holes with brake clean and just check them with an old head bolt and make sure the bolt threads all the way down so we've got our heads up here uh these are 317s they're the same heads that were on the motor i checked them with a straight edge just to make sure they they're nice and flat and they are so i'm going to hit these with brake clean and they'll be ready to go on all right so the head gaskets i'm using and the head gaskets that i always use on my turbo builds are just a gm factory ls9 head gasket i use this permatex copper spray gasket high temp sealant just spray both sides of the gasket and make sure it's it's got a nice thick coat of it let it dry for a bit and throw the head on all right so these are the head bolts i'm using um it's a small block chevy lsx hex head bolt kit this is the part number i'll try to put a link in the description but basically they're just arp uh head bolts they're not studs um they come with the instruction sheet here it's pretty straightforward basically you just make sure to wipe off all the oil off of the washers and then you use arp ultra torque which actually comes in the kit i just have a giant can of it because i use it all the time and you want to make sure to keep the bottom face of the washer as you can just see there you want to keep that dry and you want to keep the chamfered face directly under the head you want to lubricate that with that arp ultra torque and then put some on the threads so it's it's pretty straightforward it's not not difficult at all and it gives you your sequence right there and also go on the website and look that up but yeah there's the the pattern super easy it's nothing too difficult you just want to make sure that the faces where the washers sit is nice and dry but that's pretty much it [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] uh all right so now that we've got our heads on we're going to go ahead and throw our push rods in um if you can see that but it's just a summit racing uh heavy-duty stock length push rod so we're gonna throw those in and we're gonna put our rocker arms on and torque them down to 18 foot pounds [Music] all right so i went ahead and picked up this milling oil pump i believe it's uh stock pressure high volume i figured if i'm going to be running a twin turbo setup it might not be a bad idea to get a little more volume out of the oil pump so we're just going to install this real quick [Music] [Music] all right so the next thing we're going to do is install the windage tray we're gonna install our oil pickup tube next so put it in at the end just kind of push it in there it kind of snaps in [Music] definitely don't want to forget this little bolt here i'm just going to go ahead and knock that down real tight all right so i got this super cool timing cover from uh ict billet it's got two ports for an oil drain for twin turbo setup so this is what i'm going to be using um i've already got the gasket on i've got a bolt stuck through here holding it on so i'm going to show you guys how to throw this on real quick all right so obviously if you're putting one of these on your alignment is pretty critical now i've got this handy little tool that i got from amazon um it just bolts onto the top of the block right there and you can knock that down and get this alignment correct however you still gotta have this centered on the crank so what you can do is you can either install the crank pulley or there's another uh spacer that goes in here but you'll have to wait to put the seal in so i opted to put the seal in first and then put the pulley on and get it squared away so what you're going to do is you're going to knock these four bolts down just enough to where the timing cover is snug but not tight [Music] [Music] all right so we got our pulley on there centering up the timing cover we've got this little gauge on here to check and make sure that we're pretty close and we're within a couple thousand so i'm going to go ahead and torque it down [Music] [Music] [Music] and pull your guide ring off there that feels like we're pretty flush but i'm going to adjust it up just to shade [Music] [Music] [Music] all right so we're ready to put the pan on uh i've already cleaned it up i got this ultra black gasket maker i'm going to be using all right so i'm just going to put a little bit here on the corners all right now i'm going to set my oil pan gasket on there so we're going to drop the pan on there and the first bolts you want to tighten are the main two on the front cover here and also the two on the back cover now all these bolts except for the rear two are 18 foot pounds and the rear two are like 106 inch pounds which i'm just gonna tighten up i'm not even going to worry about [Music] [Music] all right so that's it the motor's done the only thing i need to do on it is throw the valve cover gaskets in put the valve covers on and throw in a couple sensors but i'm not going to worry about that right now i'm just going to wait until the next video when i'm installing it into this truck show you guys that so yeah that's it for this video thanks for watching guys be careful

Channel: Tyre Fryer

Views: 101,475

Rating: 4.9051828 out of 5

Keywords: Ls swap, Cleetus McFarland, Tyrefryer, tire fryer, tryefyer, treyfyre, restomod, sloppy mechanics, Turbo, race motor, junkyard motor, 6.0 LS, how to, how two, how too, 5.3, 6.0, swap, Junkyard, cammed, Westin Champlain, smoke em, burnouts

Id: t199itYs6fU

Length: 21min 46sec (1306 seconds)

Published: Thu Sep 02 2021