How to Build a 5.3L LS LM7 V8 - Part 7: Oil Pan, Pickup and, Rear Cover with Main Seal!

hey everyone welcome to two car pros my name is ryan and today we're going to be continuing our how to build an ls series before we go any further i want to mention that this build is sponsored by summit racing make sure you buy all your speed parts from summitracing.com and all applicable links will be located down below in the description so today's video we're going to be focusing on getting the rear cover installed with the rear main seal along with that we're going to be putting on our oil pickup tube and our oil pan basically getting the engine ready to put heads on it next so let's go ahead and jump right in all right so we're starting off today at the back of our engine here is our oil diverter valve that i showed opening the package of in the last video the link is down below in the description and it goes in with the o-ring facing backwards we're at the back of the engine this is where the rear cover is going to go so that kind of shows you a relation where we are and it's going to go into that hole just there and then on the o-ring there i have just a little bit of engine oil doesn't matter what kind just some sort of assembly loop never ever put o-rings in dry so we're going to go ahead and put this oil diverter valve in and just push that in like that and there we go we're good there don't worry about getting the depth too far in the rear cover is going to put it at its right home now before we put the rear cover on i want to point out that the entire mating surface of the gasket has been cleaned very thoroughly with carburetor spray as well as the mating surface for the rear main seal has been cleaned very very thoroughly with some carburetor spray because old uh oil builds up kind of turns to varnish and if this seal loses its integrity well your engine is going to leak like a sieve out the rear main so we have our rear cover here this is actually our stock rear cover that i just reconditioned myself i just hit with the wire wheel and then a little bit of engine primer and then a little bit of black engine enamel that we will be painting the rest of the engine with soon enough and then i wanted to point out i've already removed the seal it comes out very very easy you just flip this on its face grab a punch and just hammer around the inside edge where my finger is until it eventually comes out honestly it took me less than 20 seconds to remove this very very easy and we are using our rear cover here to save a little bit of money now you can buy these rear panels with the seals already installed but installing them is really easy so we might as well do it yourself and save some money so this is our new rear main seal it's made by acdelco here's our part number linked down below in the description provided by summit racing thanks a bunch guys but i wanted to point out something interesting in the instructions that came with it and it says right here that notice insulation direction of the oil seal the new design seal is reverse lip style as opposed to what's been used in the past this side out has been marked for the seal shown in the graphic so it look it'll look backward to the way we're used to it where we put the seal you know the lip inward so this is going to have the lip facing outwards don't worry we're going to go over it so now we're going to grab our old friend silicon rubber black rtv link down below in the description and we're just going to put a bit on our fingertip there maybe a little bit more and then we're going to go around our seal to help it seal and this is also going to help with installation because it's going to kind of act as a little bit of a lubricant for us there so it's going to make it a little easier on us as well as making installation um seal better which is always good and you just want a thin film on there don't glob it on there we go now we can pay attention to where it said this side out might be a little tricky to see on camera but mine says it right there oh you can't see it mine says it right there this side out so we know that this is facing outward from the engine so it goes in like this and we're going to leave this plastic insert in as well it's going to help support the seal while we're uh installing it there we go pretty easy now they make special tools to do this but what i've always found works pretty good is a block of wood or a thin flat piece of bar stock metal and you just want to lay it across give it some taps rotate it some taps rotate it some taps until it's installed evenly and what that's going to do is it's going to install it completely flat into the cover so this is applying pressure evenly and don't go crazy with it so you get to this point with the wood and our seal actually needs to go down further into our rear cover so we're going to grab our old seal and use this as kind of like a race driver just make sure it's nice and lined up and then we can grab the wood [Music] again and remove it and we can see that it is installed and the way you can double check that is if you flip it over you can look down in there and see that there's no gap it's nice and up against the rear cover so you can tell that this particular seal is installed correctly because there's a little bit of a lip here you can see where my pointer is um and that makes sure that it is down fully seated where it needs to be this seals a little bit thinner than the stock one but this is the new correct ls way to do it straight from general motors so before we install rear cover i want to go over the uh fasteners and the seal we're going to be using here this is an ac delco seal there's our part number link is down below in the description so this is a nice uh metal core with a rubber insert gasket this is very high quality i recommend using ac delco sent over by summit racing our arp fasteners were also sent over by summit racing there's our part number and links to both of these great products are down below in the description i've got some oil on the end of my fingertips doesn't matter what kind of oil we're just going to apply it here on this sealing surface on the back of the crankshaft we're going to do that because on first startup we don't want this seal to be dry because that can cause leaks now you might notice that i have my engine off the stand and on a little cart here that's because we're filming if i was doing this by myself and i wasn't filming i would just leave it on the engine stand to do this part it'd be a little tricky but not impossible so you don't have to do this bit on a table or anything so we're going to do is take our seal and make sure that this little kick out this little lobe here matches this one so it goes on like this and it's going to go straight on we don't need any rtv or anything right now we can grab our rear cover so we're going to install our rear cover here putting our seal on first like that lining up our gasket like that and then we can install some of our bolts here and i'm just going to leave them finger tight for right now i'm not going to give anything a final twerking until later so upon installation of our rear cover here we noticed we could you can actually feel it with your fingers and we'll show this when we flip the engine back over this is perfectly good right here you can feel it that's nice and flat but this one this corner is up too high so what we're going to do is grab a punch and place it on the edge of our rear cover here and tap it once and we're going to check it again still not down where i want it oh there we go now it's perfectly flat so when we do that tapping to make sure that these two surfaces line up nice and even with each other uh we're also centering the seal and if you don't get that seal center it has a chance of leaking so now we can go ahead and torque those bolts down so now we're going to grab our torque wrench set it to 18 foot-pounds and we're going to go in about a star pattern as we can i'm starting the middle so we're going to go here then here and here and here and just follow along and i'm just going to do half turns to begin with because i want this to sit down as evenly as possible i'm not going directly to 18 right off the bat [Music] mm-hmm yes okay so they're all kind of snug down now now we're going to go to 18 and we're gonna keep going in that star pattern as much as possible there we go all of them are torqued correctly to 18 foot-pounds and it is walked down perfectly so our job is done with the rear cover all right so the next thing we're going to talk about is oil pans this is our original oil pan off our 260 000-ish engine the original one and you can tell because it's all grimy i even had this sent through a hot tank when we hot tanked the block and it's kind of tough to see on camera but it is still all powdery and gross and a bunch of dirt and contaminants are in there you also don't know what is inside of the oil filter tube area and also down where the pickup would sit uh honestly if you're going this far rebuilding an engine you're spending the money spend another hundred bucks or so and get this oil ban so a hundred dollars a bit over a hundred dollars or so you can get this made by summit racing sponsored by summit racing they sent this on over this is a very flat pan this is actually meant to go in a gmf body uh funnily enough and we can see that it's got a drain bolt right there and where we put our oil filter already pre-installed so that is excellent it also came with some bolts for assembly and a pickup tube with an o-ring on it now to seal this bad boy to the block we're gonna rely on our old friends at acdelco for our oil pan gasket link down below in the description sent over by summit racing this is a metal core uh gasket with a nice rubber insert and it's going to make sure this stays nice and sealed for a long time the next thing we're going to talk about is windage trays here is our stock windage tray it kind of has the same problem as our oil pan where it just has a bit of grit on there you could probably glass speed this clean and maybe reuse it and this one actually fit with our f-body pan you need a shorter windage tray which is what i have in this box it's our acdelco sent over by summit racing link down below in the description so we can see that it is a bit shorter than the stock unit and that's going to fit our new pan and the nuts for our windage tray are in this arp bolt stud kit there's our part number and the link is down below in the description as well so let's get to installing this windage trip so now we can install our windage tray we can see that it says we can see that it says rear right there so we know that goes rearward and salt like this and we know it goes towards the back because you can't even put it on wrong the studs won't line up so we know it goes right there just like that and then we're going to install our windage tray nuts here we're not going to torque them down just yet we're just going to put them on very lightly but i'm still gonna go in the next pattern because it is a good practice to get into while i'm installing these nuts i thought i'd tell you what your windage tray is going to do not only is it going to have oil control from whipping off of your crankshaft it also protects your crankshaft from oil sitting in your pan and washing up on that crankshaft while you're you know accelerating cornering or even if you're in an off-road vehicle that protects oil from slapping up onto the crankshaft itself so i have my little electric screwdriver here and i have it on a very low setting so it clutches out very early because we're not going to tighten it down just yet and we're just going to go we're just going to go in that next pattern there [Applause] there we go now we're ready to get our truck figure so according to our arp fastener kit our windage tray nut torque figure is 28 foot-pounds all right we're going to tighten it down to 28 in that cross pattern you haven't heard the torque wrench glock yet i'm just going to go in increments here now our nuts are a little more snug than they were before i'd say they're right around 18 foot pounds but i had to guess now we can go to the full 28. i like doing stages like that so that way i ensure that it goes on evenly and the windage tray isn't deflected at all [Music] and there we go our windage tray is installed so i took off this nut from the windows tray because it's necessary to get the pickup on and i noticed the pickup wasn't fitting super great with uh this stud and the windage tray i also wanted to mention i had to hog out three of the holes for the windage tray with a step bit drill that took like two seconds uh when you're building custom stuff sometimes you do a little bit of modification and enlarging holes is no big deal the other modification involves the pickup i don't think this pickup was ever made to work with this windage tray so we kind of had to make it work or i grinded off this corner a little bit so it'll actually fit and i had to make the hole a little bit bigger as well so it'll fit over our aftermarket arp studs but now if it's pretty good the only thing i want to see out of this is i want to make sure that this is completely square on the oil pump itself so what i'm going to do is put a little washer underneath where the pickup bolts down go three inch washer here put that down there we go now i know that this is square because what you want to do is you want to pay attention to where the pickup actually bolts to the oil pump you want to make sure that it's completely square when this is you know torqued down and with that one washer we're absolutely perfect so now we can install this permanently so the instructions with our pump are pretty clear about which o-ring to use and that's determined by your pickup tube luckily our pickup tube came with an o-ring so this is the one we're going to be using and we're going to apply some oil to it never install o-rings dry there we go nice and sauced up with just some regular motor oil we can go ahead and install that so when you're installing your pickup tube just make sure your o-ring is on all the way like that and nice and sauced up now we're going to install it like this making sure that it goes on perfectly square to the oil pump housing just like that very good these are eight millimeter bolts and i don't i couldn't really find a torque spec for them so just use your best judgment they're only eight millimeters so be gentle then on the far side just be very careful not to drop the bolt down into the engine that would be a bummer it's a little tricky i'm just gonna put it down finger tight for right now and do this as evenly as you can and make sure that it goes in uh as square as possible there we go just make sure it's getting on that mating surface as square as you can so even pressure to both sides don't just tighten one side down and then the other we go all right i have a very small ratchet right now i'm just going to snug those up here we go they're just eight millimeter bolts and they're going into an aluminum housing so don't go nuts with the torque just snug is good if i find a torque spec it'll be on screen but i couldn't find one leading up to this so there we go that's all i'm gonna give it so now we can reinstall our final windage tray fastener and torque that guy down to 28. there we go and our pickup tube is installed so the next thing we're going to worry about is prepping this surface for the oil pan and basically we're going to take some carburetor spray spray it on a fairy tale and we're just going to go around this surface and make sure that this surface is nice and clean the entire mating surface of where the oil pan is going to sit we want to make sure it's very clean free of contaminants if there's any kind of leftover gasket material go ahead and get a razor blade and scrape it all off because if there's anything in our way of sealing our oil pan is going to leak which is kind of the opposite of what we want so make sure that this is nice and clean the entire mating surface mine is looking perfect so now we can move on to the silicon rubber part in the old and olden days you'd use kind of a lot of silicone rubber when you're putting an oil pan on at least if you don't want it to leak today though with these modern ls engines the only four places you really need to worry about them are in the corners here so we're just gonna put a dab of silicone rubber on each one of those corners just to make sure we're getting a good seal some people might think this part's a little necessary but i assure you it isn't just make sure you're not getting any in the crank case itself and keep in mind that once you apply the silicone it is drying so don't apply this and then go to lunch or something there's a dab of silicone on each corner so each corner where the cover meets the block should kind of look like this with a little bit of silicone rubber right there that applies to the front and rear cover so what i'm going to do first is get our gasket orientated correctly you can tell because the oil filter passageway tubes are facing towards me and i'm just going to set that down in its home where i want that to be just like that and then i can grab my pan our nice summit racing pan we can go ahead and set that down into its home going straight down making sure you don't disturb your gasket making sure that it is all lined up with the bolt holes so it's a little tricky to see on camera but i'm going to do my very best so there are three different types of bolts that came with this kit there is the long one that's a standard thread that's going to go over by oil filter housing i'll show that in a minute there's the standard one that goes pretty much everywhere and then there's the little guys and the little guys go at the very back of the oil pan and i'll show where all these go later on and then each one of them has an associated lock washer just like that we're going to put those on just going to put them in by hand first and when you're installing something like a a big pan like an oil pan you always want to start in the middle and then work your way out what i like to do is just imagine a big spiral just going out like this so that way the pan will sit down evenly on its seal so i'm going to thread them all in by hand first and then i'm going to hit them with my little electric screwdriver there so now our allen bolts are installed but not tightened down what i want to do is grab my electric screwdriver on a very low setting and just snug them up and again we're going to go in a spiraling pattern underneath the kick out for the oil pan we're gonna have to use a number six allen now t handle here or l handle actually there's only three that are really obstructed by this kickout and on a stock stock application you won't have this problem at all but we need that maximum oil pan performance so little adjustments you have to do again we're just snugging those down we're not doing a final torque figure so you know lightly snug is good i'm always doing these stages here and on the back allens those are a five five millimeter go ahead and snug i want to snug the back ones down last because of the smallest and i don't want a ton of force on the smallest bolts so i like to do those last so here's what it looks like before we give it our final torque figure so these all bolts are all the normal length these two at the back are the little bitty ones the number fives and then right here on the oil filter you know adapter or housing whatever you want to call it is where you put your long boys this doesn't have i know it's it's looks like there's a bowl hole there but there's not there's not one in the block so it's empty and then you have the normal length ones again so now we can torque these all down so all of the normal size fasteners are 18 foot-pounds but the little guys at the back those are 106 inch pounds and we're going to do those last so we're going to tighten this down in a spiral just like we were doing before there's 18. this is going to ensure that our pan sits down perfectly flat and as far as the ones you can't really get to the torque wrench well we're going gonna have to feel it out just use your best judgment and you'll be fine because my torque wrench won't fit underneath my torque wrench won't fit underneath my old plan so i'm gonna have to use an old-fashioned allen and just try to feel out 18 foot-pounds i'm just trying to match how much what it felt like to put the other 18 foot-pounds of ones on so don't go crazy so [Music] then again can't get a torque wrench into here so we are just going to use our best judgment there we go i'm just going to keep following along in a like spiral there we go and this one on the other side of the oil filter housing you can actually get to the torque wrench it's not bad perfect and then if you spiral over to here your front cover should be your second to last now we can talk about our rear bolts so here are tiny five millimeter allen bolts there and those are only torqued to 106 inch pounds and that's a very small torque figure in fact i don't even have a gauge that reads that low they do make them so if you want to go out and buy one you can but i have a very small ratchet here oh i got my spiral and i spiraled tightening the other fasteners in such a way that i knew that these ones would be last because they're the smallest and i want the least amount of load on them i'm just trying to feel it out snug there we go i wouldn't go any snugger than that there we go i mean wrist tight i wouldn't go any snugger than that they're just little bolts and you really don't want to break them off so now it's kind of an exciting part we get to flip the engine over because this is the last time that the bottom needs to face the sky so we can flip it over so that way we can put heads on it later there we go making sure it's right side up now now our engines ready for heads and dock train at the end of your day don't forget to protect your investment with some plastic it is a cheap and effective way to make sure nothing gets in your engine that is an engine or lubricant and that is available down below in the description so with all that on the engine now we're ready to put our heads on and that really feels like it needs to be its own separate video so this video is gonna be a little bit on the short side but you need to get these things done before you put the heads on because it's gonna be really tough to turn the engine over with heads on it so we're going to want to get the heads on it and then do our valve train and that will be all in the next video coming up really shortly so you make sure you're subscribed so you don't miss that thank you so very much for watching thank you so much racing for sponsoring this build and we'll see you next time

Channel: 2CarPros

Views: 21,772

Rating: 4.9142857 out of 5

Keywords: Car, Repair, Tutorial, How, To, diy, 2carpros.com, Do, It, Yourself

Id: Fh12SPwrHrk

Length: 27min 9sec (1629 seconds)

Published: Sat Dec 19 2020