How One of New York’s Best Chefs Runs His High Volume Michelin-Starred Restaurant — Mise En Place

we start the preparation of the porcatini in my travels in Italy come across the dish of porchetta it's a bit of a loin with some belly or sometimes it's a whole deboned pig the porkatini we do here is like a baby porchetta for one so this is like one of the more technical kind of dishes that we do here this is the uh the it's a pork tenderloin and we're essentially creating a kind of wrap going over this so using the plastic wrap to help guide it we then seal the entire tenderloin this way and we can pull that clothes like that and there we have the actual small porkatini itself this is going to get then cryovact and we will poach this and then up on the fire we take it out of the plastic and we sear it what that does is it fully Cooks the sausage leaves the pork tenderloin about medium to medium well then we brush it with reduced portrait while we roll it in pour cracklings I kind of got that same seasoning [Music] it's this little fine dining fun way of serving a you know pretty simple dish foreign [Music] [Music] Market the flowers for the day and most importantly darker greens these are going to go for the market salad oh it's 9 30 in the fancy kitchen we're starting the pasta program so we're going to get started on that these are stinging nettles kind of in late spring we've been making a tortelli out of these with burrata and red wine as a chef you kind of feel like when things are available you should use them for your guests you know you should when things are seasonal I don't like to shock people or anything like that I kind of like to use things that they might not have seen but they can relate to this is uh the current vegetarian option on the menu so we do go through a lot of this yeah it's a popular one for sure yeah see right there I just got stung not that every European Brasserie has to have a large pasta menu pasta is just very dear to me I generally keep at least six pastas on the menu sometimes we do even more specials so now we're actually gonna roast down the Nettles I tell every one of these guys it's like no matter what you're doing how am I new it is to kind of put a lot of care into it here we're just gonna let this cool off I like to take it to like room temperature and the butter that's in here is going to solidify so when we grind it it's going to kind of come out like a homogeneous mixture we grind the vegetable it kind of has like a meat like texture as we push it through if you do this correctly it comes out like that because now the butter is solidified and it's grinding with the um the nettle to keep it with one homogeneous mixture now you can see all those Nettles that we made didn't really amount to much the burrata we just dry for this I like to just hand mix it kind of Old World style if you mix this in a mixer it just doesn't have that same effect I feel so this is like four bottles of red wine reduced down to a syrup and this is what cuts through a lot of this so Angel my pasta maker this one never made a noodle before you came here and now he's a rock star now he does it better than me he's starting to make the base or the inner layer of this this tortelli but this is where it takes it to like the next level of pasta making the tortelli is composed of three different doughs a nettle dough a red wine dough and we have a charcoal infused dough those those flavors are within the actual filling and it's wrapping the actual filling so it kind of layers up on the whole thing no pun intended you can see the end results it's pretty it's pretty striking it's it's a beautiful thing it's it's simplistic in nature it's got technique behind it but I don't think it's got too much just kind of representing what's in there and if you don't care it just tastes good I've been cooking pasta a long time even when I was a little kid I mean I got into cooking from my parents these are the first things my mother taught me was like get the dried pasta put it in the water here's some butter here's some cheese I cooked that a lot and as I got deeper into cooking and I worked in different restaurants I got geeky about it for a very long time and when I was in Italy I studied it it's just an art form of cooking that I enjoy so this is our executive sous chef Marcos Lopez he's going to be making the lobster filling for the lobster ravioli this is the last of our filled pastas that we're we're building here today this Lobster is raw we just steam it for two minutes to pull it out of the shell see them a little bit of salt pepper in between the process I'm just going to give it a little swirls make sure that all this body is broken down I thought it'd be in the sense of being a comfortable Brasserie to make a lobster ravioli which a lot of restaurants have on the menu but I wanted it to be like the most perfect one we could we developed this Lobster mussolin that has chunks of the raw Lobster folded into it so it has that texture but it it's cooked all the minutes right now I'm adding just chopped chopped up tarragon just for flavor and if I keep going any further in this then I get I will break this mousse I will be adding just chopped chopped up lobsters which is going to add another texture component to the filling so every time we make this filling we always run a tester in some boiling water and some plastic wrap just to make sure that that's going to cook and then this is ready to get bagged up pass over to Angel foreign we did have to figure out like the perfect amount to put in there so it didn't bleed out the size but you can't it's like you can't have too much and you can't have too little a lot of the things I wanted to be very over the top going to the past I wanted it to be like on display like the dock a diner can see it and be like what is that I want it Justin it's raw Farm it's beautiful [Music] and the other part of this dish is it has such a like a rich flavor the sauce that we sauce it with it's the only hosta dish that involves cream really adds a lightness to the dish and really it's very elegant and silky because I wanted it to almost be like just perfect cartoonish so I started doing the market salad at a restaurant I had in Midtown for a short amount of time called Ten Penny I wanted to have some elements of like the Continental American restaurant which would be you would order your entree and get the house salad so that's like why that came together and why I wanted to take that idea and make it more elegant for blanching process you always want to have like your Warrior bags set up right away I'm gonna start with Romanesco Baba beans English piece so with the English piece and the fava beans that belong to the like a longer time period like five minutes this is the most feedier salad I ever made that have a lot of components to it you do a great job at it I like challenges going into it with my snow piece the snow peas also equipped Blanche just to like bring up the color as well being in charge of a dish like that you have to be very organized you know she's here caring and checking every single one of these vegetables every day when they're like really uh cooked you could like squeeze from the pot easily still need more time going in with my some carrots with some carrots take a longer time to cook so that's it for the blanching process now we have to like move on to the roofing section it's definitely a very labor intensive I want to cram into many different vegetables in there and like give the diner that experience of the excitement we get off of that so for the roasting process this is my setup and with the carrots then Daddy have a lot of sugar to it I put a lot of fat in the Randall so it doesn't like burn fast I will start with I will not put too much fat because I want a nice sear on it so I'm gonna season with salt and chill facts so the carrots has reached a fried cooking point that we want same as a Ramen as well as the right roast in starting expresses I'm going with my snow peas so now the Smokies is nicely rolled and that's the breakfast so these are the dehydrated components of the market salad we have more steps to the market so we these are just salt but basically I'm like brushing the oil on it for seasoning so the oil will help like the salt stick to the like the onions and for Christmas now we're going to transfer them into the diagram so now we're pulling out the carrots here we have these are the carrots done yesterday you can see they're they're concentrated in flavor and they look pretty too and this is going to garnish the salad the market salad itself can have upwards of 25 ingredients that dish has three Cooks working on it in different shifts and all the different vegetables are cooked different ways whatever we see fit and then there's the components that kind of stay the same we had texture through the black olive and sunchoke kind of soil that we put on the plate we always have a pickled almond on there we always top it with greens to kind of make it look like a garden when it comes out so it's like taking that and just elevating it it's 4 P.M so we're gonna start going through these ducks for tomorrow these are fresh Ducks I'm also extremely lucky to have alcades say hello Sadies whom I've worked with for 18 years one of the most talented butchers in the entire city he butchers these ducks day in and day out to a t these ducks will be sold one month from now it's trimming the crown to make this presentable item what happens next is the the crown goes into an ice water bath it soaks there while we're butchering out all of the Ducks all of this will be used for stock and sauce these will be broken down and boned out the bones will actually go to that same thing we will utilize this leg meat for other preparations after they're done soaking we dry them on sheet pans first and then we put them into our rotation over here and then we start rotating them into the uh into the dates these are the freshest they stand up there for like a day just to get all the extra excess water out because if not then it would be raining duck a lot all those but yeah then they then we start moving them from fridge to fridge from space to space and turning and turning the birds so that the proper air circulation goes around them we're going to start bringing these upstairs to get loaded up into the roast stations fridge they will start pricking these getting them ready for the honey to get roasted you know as a restaurant kind of does revolve around the duck we get in dirty ducks a day we're just doing the finishing touches we're just making sure that the product's great then we're going to clean all this down be fully presentable and start the show we have uh we have all of our ducks in a row these are going to be here uh up until the beginning of service then we are going to prick them with our our tool here rub them in honey and roast them in this oven here we have lined up our two duck presenters for the evening we have Celestia and wax flowers today some baby eucalyptus is always in the mix and this is how we present the Ducks you know we make these daily I never thought the duck was going to be the thing here I wanted to put that on the menu because I've been cooking that that specific duck for a very long time I thought I was going to sell like nine or ten a week like the first friends and family we had it was like duck duck duck duck I think that's what part of the success of it because it was all over the internet and it still is to this day which I think Instagram for I'm the worst in social media I mean I I really I'll admit it I just wanted to represent the bird you know it's a beautiful sight to see the bird come out essentially the duck you order is a duck you get shown and it's there's no smoke and mirrors behind the whole thing if you order the duck we put the duck in the oven duck Waits The Duck comes to you and we present the duck bring it back carve it off the the carcass of it and you slice it on a slight bias we have the Jew meat the port Jew made from the bones goes on the bottom of the pan and the duck is fanned out some Malden salt and and that's it and then we serve it with the accomplishments I just wanted to represent the the bird and you know gave its life at a restaurant and gave it proper Justice to what it is and show the work that goes into it you know it's a beautiful sight to see the bird come out and and then when we slice and present it in the service wear that we had made and you know it's just a nice thing from the diner's perspective if you aren't into food and all that it's just good great food if you are into food you can understand the technique that goes behind it we don't do too much avant-garde stuff it starts at 7 A.M every day to get this food done and then once service starts it's a it's a very orchestrated serious service to get it out to the diner so right now I'm setting up my station these are all my squeeze bottles I got a red wine vinegar red wine reduction this is my finishing oil olive oil yondu Bacon Fat over here so right now it's uh five o'clock I waited out on my pastas this is where I keep all my rigatones in my conquist they're a semolina extruded pastas I keep my raviolis it's three raviolis for each order I grabbed my pappardella and my Fratelli out of the region and I set it up over here whenever something gets fired I grab one of these trays I put all my pastas on it and then I drop it in the water start the sauce as finished your typical Michelin level kitchen does a lot of follow-up you can see in the kitchen everybody in there has got a lot of passion passion is probably more than word behind that level of cooking like once you start here in the roar it's on apply our bread souffle cake bombaloni three prawn then a cucumber then a conquigli ravioli popper dolly so this is our home a little bit clam bacon and white sesame we top it off with our white Sesame pan gratato we're an a la carte restaurant we're not a tasting menu restaurant and so it's kind of like choose your own tasting menu fire bombaloni then a complete split then a duck everybody goes to fine dining restaurants once but I have people coming back you know sometimes once a week you know or more that to me is I feel that this is the success of the restaurant full speed on the Mortadella souffle cakes two and two after what we went through I'm glad the restaurant still here listen I'm in the business of making people happy buy a single rad that's why I cook that's why we have an open kitchen so we can watch everybody be happy and have a good time foreign

Channel: Eater

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Keywords: eater, eater.com, food, foodie, dining, dish, restaurant, restaurants, review, news, munchies, food porn, mise en place, eater mise en place, duck, duck dishes, dry aged, dry aged duck, dry aged meat, michelin star, michelin star restaurant, francie, francie nyc, nyc food, best nyc food, nyc michelin star restaurant, nyc michelin star, michelin starred restaurant, chef, michelin star restaurants, fine dining, mise en place eater, michelin star chef, pasta, nyc pasta, best nyc pasta

Id: LQdfE66rAwc

Length: 15min 38sec (938 seconds)

Published: Mon Aug 28 2023