How i made a stainless Steel exhaust for a Kawasaki Z1R Turbo

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Man you are an artist!! Awesome job on that exhaust and great looking rare bike.

👍︎︎ 8 👤︎︎ u/UncleJack10 📅︎︎ Jul 31 2020 🗫︎ replies

The ol' pillar drill. I love how tool names differ from region to region.

👍︎︎ 3 👤︎︎ u/whats_yer_poison 📅︎︎ Jul 31 2020 🗫︎ replies

This guy makes everything look like a cake walk. I love the video he did with Missedenflyer? on his bikes, especially the first part with the Viper engine bike.

👍︎︎ 3 👤︎︎ u/VTCHannibal 📅︎︎ Jul 31 2020 🗫︎ replies

brilliant

👍︎︎ 1 👤︎︎ u/velofille 📅︎︎ Jul 31 2020 🗫︎ replies

Freakn' sweet bike! Seeing stainless getting welded without back purge makes me cringe 😬 I do like your polishing trick though!

👍︎︎ 1 👤︎︎ u/theslimestshady 📅︎︎ Jul 31 2020 🗫︎ replies

Watching him hit stainless with a steel hammer hurt my soul.

👍︎︎ 1 👤︎︎ u/GreasyMechanic 📅︎︎ Jul 31 2020 🗫︎ replies

Allen can do more with a hacksaw, grinder and pillar drill than most people can do with an entire engineering firm.

👍︎︎ 1 👤︎︎ u/DontTellHimPike 📅︎︎ Jul 31 2020 🗫︎ replies
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in this video i'll show you how i made the stainless steel exhaust system for my friend neil's kawasaki seb 1r turbo it's a monster machine i've just come back from a ride it pulls and pulls and pulls absolutely amazing but it's really raw not on ecu or computer inside the first thing i need to do is to make some new stainless steel flanges to bolt to the turbo and the manifold at the front i'm going to make these out four millimeter thick stainless steel so i'll draw around the existing ones i like a template so using my sharpie pen i draw around the outside of each flange i'll mark out the holes as well while i'm at it with everything marked out i go out to my shed to use my angle grinder this is a good way of cutting stainless sheet if you use the one millimeter thick disc wheels it cuts like butter with all the pieces cut out i changed the cutting disk for a flapper wheel this is amazing for deburring you just go around the edge follow the profile and to get the shape you require with all the parts cut to shape and deburred i go back in the garage to mark out the central hole i'm going to do this on my lay by setting the part up in a three-jaw chuck and try panning in cutting out the large diameter hole to match the pipe that it's going to marry up with with the last cut done i checked with my verna caliper and it seems to be about okay so i offer it up to the pipe and it fits perfect i'm well pleased with that that's just the job some of the marker pen has burnt off with the heat from the grinding process so i clamp it to the flange with my mole grips and mark them again with the three holes marked the next thing i need to do is center punch the centers with the hole positioned center punched i use my pillar drill to drill the holes i gripped the flange with my mole grip so i can hold it secure to prevent it from slipping with all the flanges drilled and deburred the next thing i need to do is shrink some big pipe down to the smaller size to fit the small pipe ready for welding the large diameter pipe which will become the rear silencer also needs to be nice and radiused so to do this i turn up a piece of aluminium that's a reasonably tight fit in the bore and tap it in with a hammer about half an inch down with the aluminium former tapped into place the next thing i do is start hammering the edge gently hammering it over because eventually this will be a nice curve you keep going round and round around with perseverance and you can see it forming right in front of your eyes it's starting to look really good the form is actually taking shape but the aluminium former keeps moving so i found this little bit of wood to stick in i could slide it between the flowers without breaking them rest it against the shed and i can carry on with a hammering i've been hammering for quite a while now so i thought i'd have a quick check and it's nearly there the diameter at the end of the pipes reduced quite a lot now and the actual former is less important so i stand the pipe upright and hammer it over for the last little bit and there we go it fits perfect the exhaust system fitted to a z1r turbo has a characteristic slash cut at the end it's the length of my iphone and about 30 degrees so i just cut it by eye it takes a while but i persevere and get there in the end with the slash cut complete i use my file to take off all the sharp edges and give it a nice smooth finish with the tailpipe basically finished ready for welding i decided to get on with the front pipe that connects the manifold through to the turbo the existing one was no good i opened it up just to see but it doesn't fit at all i'm going to be using 180 degree stainless steel bends purchased from ebay so what i did is laid it over the original manifold because the front part was basically right so i can mark out roughly where to cut it well that's the first cut done and the flange fits nicely and i've marked where the second cut's going to be i'll just double check yep it's fine i cut the second cut then it marries up with the other pipe ready for welding and then i work on the flange with the flange welded i offer it up to the bike and bolt it in place to make sure it fits before i could do the next piece but there's a problem i haven't got a piece of pipe to bend around to the turbo hello is that neil neil when you drop that zeb one over did you have to leave a bit of the pipe behind i'm just worried about the manifold and it seems to be a bit missing you did okay i'll tell you what i'll whizz over my dead one and get it right now cause i need it today all right i'll catch it a bit bye neil you've got a bit of pipe yeah i've got it here oh thank you i'm not buying another one so don't copy it i'll give you a shout when it's done well back in the garage i finally got all the pieces of pipe i need to complete the system but i thought what i might do is actually finish the back first so i pick up the big bend and start cutting that to fit the rear silencer there's only a couple of cuts to do then it should marry up nicely with my rear silencer i grip the pipe bend in the vise it's two and a half inches outside diameter it's amazing how much stress is in the actual curve from the bending process so when i start to cut it sometimes grips the blade and you have to adjust the vise to take the grip off [Music] with all the parts of the rear pipe cut i'll just check they fit together nicely before welding and then i'm going to make up a special device for polishing them i use a strip of ambronette of rays of cloth and glue the ends together using cubond cubon is like a fine powder you sprinkle on then drip on superglue it sets really hard in a few seconds joining the two pieces together i then use my swiss army knife scissors to trim off the excess coupon flashing and we're ready to go i slipped the hoop of abernet cloth over the pipe then use my electric drill with a wire brush in the chuck to power it it takes a bit of practice to keep it in line it's like an old traction engine driving a thrashing machine with a big flat belt but after a bit of practice you can drive it anywhere it makes an amazing finish and it's so easy to do as you can see the joint has survived perfectly and is still intact now back to the front pipe that i was making earlier i cut the little hoop in half and i had one millimeter to come off so i cut it off with the saw and then the part fitted perfectly on the bike ready for welding i held it in place by hand and did a very small tack weld to hold it still where i carried out the rest of the worlds i could get to on the bike then removed it from the bike and finished it off in the vise with all the welds complete i replaced it onto the bike and did up all the bolts tight to make sure it's still fitted which it did then i removed it and put it back in my vise to use my internal belt sander to clean up all the welds to finish off i use some very fine abernet cloth just to give it a nice sheen and here it is all fitted to the bike and bolted up tight i fitted the original heat shield just to protect my legs but then when i sat on the bike it's amazing how your leg fits in between the front pipe the back pipe and the turbo charger it's gonna be proper warm but i suppose as long as you're not touching it it's okay i'll have to remember when i'm riding not to lean in and touch the actual turbocharger i bet that's pretty hot but anyway let's take it for a ride so [Music] thanks for watching my video don't forget to subscribe for me it was an amazing experience riding the zebra turbo it's years since i've ridden one and i've completely forgotten how fast they actually are they're so raw if you get a chance to buy one you shouldn't turn it down
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Channel: Allen Millyard
Views: 315,994
Rating: 4.9425588 out of 5
Keywords: Super Six, six cylinder, home made, shed, shed made, old school engineering, engine repair, Z1, Kawasaki Z900, Kawasaki Z1, Hacksaw, hand cutting, MCN, Classic motorcycle Mechanics, The motorbike Show, HCA, Filing, Files, Colchester Lathe, Elliot Milling Machine, 1970's, Kawasaki, Camshaft, Dontgiveup, Notaseasyasitlooks, Haveago, millyard, millyardracing, hyperride2, lockdown, Kawasaki Z1R Turbo, Turbo, Z1R, Turbo bike, Wastegate, Mikuni, Its fast, Turbo lag, swiss army scissors, QBond
Id: T1aG63f_eEs
Channel Id: undefined
Length: 13min 13sec (793 seconds)
Published: Sun Jul 26 2020
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