Hot Rodding The Slant Six - Overcoming Design Flaws

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so we finished up on all of the major grinding and machining and everything else so we gave our block quick on paint we used rust-oleum rusty metal primer this brush on right and cover the whole block inside and out when you use this do it with a very fresh can don't use an older can do or the fresh camp because when this paint is fresh it's very fine like it'll soak into pores if you let it sit you know I use a used can it gets a little thicker and it doesn't adhere as well but we've used this on a bunch of engines that works really good so then we give a quick coat first coat of red kind of make this stuff training right but now with these parts on the weight start it's time to start looking at the smaller things so we figured let's start from the bottom up let's go thing or the oil pan would pick up an oil control windage you know it's a big deal so I'm small this thing over okay so one of the first things we did was grind smooth everything on the inside of the block all of these surfaces and again this for no obvious is foiled rain back and also we rounded and chamfered as many of these areas as we could all along with handrail mounts okay all here everything has just been smooth going to ground smooth a little bit to help stuff drain back but now we've got this oil training back what do we do so here so this is the standard 67 to 76 a mighty pan if you're gonna use an earlier and you know to earlier anybody 63 through 60 60 pan is very similar the this up is just moved a little bit so to clear the difference in the cave frame but this is the pan that most everybody is gonna come across and right away when you look at it so let's explain why this thing a sheep way it is sits in the car this way but the Sun flush you know level with the ground and this accommodates the slant front of the engine you'll see that the front of the pan right here is very very shallow in fact when this is on an engine there's only three quarters of an inch between the bottom of the pan and the connecting rod now why did they do that well because the key frame fits up in here so they have to make this as shallow as possible they used a center sump because well a the engine uses the center you know the oil pump is centered in the engine and the back here you've got the steering okay so now looking at this this is a really bad design and the very first thing I said to myself was you know what let's just start from scratch we'll use the flange we'll make a deeper sump for it will extend it back here and I'll make a pickup that comes to it and grabs oil from over here and we can also do something to lower the front like by notching the k-frame but then I thought about that I said that's not to do any good for guys who are following along at home they were trying to build their own hot rod you know things without completely re-engineering the car license you know what this is going to be what we're going to use we're going to we're gonna overcome as many of the factories limitations as possible so first things first let's show you what happens when this thing is actually in use okay so here's the pin as it sits in the car the sump is level with the ground so this is what we got so what's still this thing with water that's silly because hot oil is gonna have approximately the same characteristics as water and you're doing the gallon because it's fine but still once your engine is running in the oil filter is flowing you've got oil sitting through the engine ninety counts about a quart so this is what your looks like now well use that gear to simulate the pickup whole complete this with this magnet now let's see it's already pouring out the back is already where it sits it's against the rear seal of the engine again like I said this is your stock oil paper with a gallon of oil in it right so let's see what happens when we accelerate this pitch ready so this is this is about the same acceleration is a stock's 26 oh here you go so what's happening this solves a lot of mysteries well I get to that minute clearly as soon as we hit the gas almost all of the oil stacked against the back of the pan remember if this was accomplished this was on the engine oil pickup you're the oil seal over here and then here is where the number six rod is here's we're going to number five rod is okay almost all that went immediately to the back and uncovered the sump what happens is that oil is now being whatever oil is left in this area is now being aerated it's becoming a foam and all of that oil that was sitting here BAM is stacked up against the back of the engine so the rods are taking that oil and they're actually filling up the back of block with it it's a tremendous amount of windage happening there so let me show you it would have come up with to work around that so first that mystery right now you notice the slant six has essentially melted oil pump and here's the mineral oil galley it feeds evenly to the front and to the back now if you notice slide sixes when they fail almost always the failure is in the number five when a number six rod I remember when we showed you on the oil pan well we had oil is coming back here and stacking and at the same time this is becoming uncovered which means that you've got an oil pressure drop at the same exact time that these two rods have to fight through to three quarts of oil and remember at running rpm oil doesn't really act like a liquid when it's getting thrown off the crank it actually has the consistency like a golf ball so these two rods at the same time at the oil pressure drops these two rods are blasting their way through oil so the pressure drops within the crank shaft itself the bearings don't get the film that they need to support it and at the same time these rods are experiencing Sherman resistance so all it takes is just really a blender and I you've got that metal to metal contact between the bearing and the journal and that's it party's over this is why slant-6 is killed these two back rods so the oil can so there's no witness trades available for these things commonly the direct connection Chrysler used to offer one eons ago and it was kind of a shorty it fit from the front of the sump to the back over here we're gonna make one now we really looked at it and said win with what if we took Hach small Locker winners tray and you can find these things cheap I think I paid $10 for this thing going to swap meet and fit it in here so it'll actually fit in backwards years he was gonna back of the pan would be on the gate because the oil pump on the small block is back here backwards our I'm gonna trim this again this is we're still filling this together still make it all work but here's the plain this is how we're going to do this this section right here is going to get sectioned cut out so that the the oil pickup can fit in the air and the sump can go underneath it it'll get welded here and then we'll get welded here and what that will do is I'll add a layer of insulation between the pool of oil is in the sump and at the back over here and they were super hitting assembly most in addition to I'm going to weld a little legend right here just something to overhang that the the sump soon as the oil gets sent back it actually acts like something to keep it from coming for you gonna do so much with this because the oil level is so high in comparison to something but that ledge right there will keep the oil from you know all of it going back and uncovering this up so that's gonna go there and then now we spread this slightly already and originally long here but that's not good if we welded it here then the oil draining flat back from the inside of the block is gonna straining into the pan so we're going to leave approximately a quarter inch gap between the pan rail and restrain itself so the oil coming down off the block has a we just get right back in so there's something I'm going to deal with any of this we may or may not restrict some of these holes we're gonna have to it's gonna be all trial and error to see exactly how this is going to work but that's the plan so now the windage is a problem especially with a low horsepower engine like slant-6 it can be worth up to 20 horsepower you know depending on the design of the engine and unfortunately this is about as bad design as you possibly gonna get in your in that terms in terms of windage now one of the things that I see that guys what race car do is they'll put a crank scraper in so I've used crank scrapers on all kinds of engines and what a crank scraper does is it actually as the as the reciprocating assembly is turning it acts like a razor blade it's just it's just a sheet of metal that on this engine we fit along tamriel it would have cutouts that would just allow the rod to get through on the counterweight or we're not we're spinning in that area they would be shaped to fit that and what it does is it actually cuts the oil off through the rope oil it's coming off the crankshaft I think Eve's are returning back into the crankcase but here's a problem with this and this is unique to the slant-6 crack scrapers are great things but the sling was designed from the very beginning to use solid lifters almost every engine you're gonna deal with was was intended from the factory to use hydraulic lifters even if they came with solids the engine was still designed to be used with hydraulics so the main oil galley always feeds the lifters first on the slant six there is no oil galley feeding the lifters instead the oil galley runs external here and doesn't intersect the lifter galley at all the problem with this is that the crank the camshaft and the lifters are lubricated by the oil coming down off of the lift as well anything that squeezes past the lifter bore at Mandla and the lifter drips down onto the camshaft and keeps that lubricated well if we did that on the slant sex we're losing all of our lubrication to the cam shift I mean that might be an Okie thing if you're running the engine three seconds at a time right but it's definitely not the plan for a street strip car and I don't really want to deal with that situation on this so no crank scraper here the crank scraper would be would definitely be good for eight or ten horsepower on this thing but we're not gonna do it we're gonna just have to deal with some of that windage in the name of keeping our valve train intact okay so that's it for the oil pan but here's another situation we came across when we put the mule engine together the one that's in the car now we were we were looking at obviously everything we've done with this is to leave a saving weight in parasitic losses so right away I says you know let's do a solid motor mount on this we'll use the water pump mounting flange there's a piece of aluminum to go from here to the frame rail and then we can eliminate the mounts and the brackets right when I started really looking at that I was like no man man okay we have a situation with the slanted six block is very unique if you come around over here you'll see here them here the bosses for the motor mount years - bull - they got another sit on the other side and if you see if you look at how this is constructed now the motor mount bosses are tied directly into the main webbing for this mean saddle this is actually the strongest part of the water and in fact if you look right here on this door engine off I'm sorry on this side the side right here you'll see that there's only one rib right on the side of this block and it corresponds with this section so now what would happen is if we were to solid mount the front of this engine it means that there's nothing to prevent torsional loading on the block there's nothing to prevent it from twisting we would if we added so if we have another solid motor mount at the front and mid-mounted the back that would eliminate any torsional loading but all of our weight savings that was negated the car becomes a little more complicated to work on at the back of the block and it was six of one half a dozen of another so what we came up with when we mounted that engine in the car we're going to continue it over to this block is we used on the on the driver's side of the engine we used a solid small-block motor mount so instead of having a rubber that we used we use a stock rocket that we swiss-cheesed and then we use the solid small-block regular you know a body small-block solid motor mount in there on the passenger side we use the stock bracket and the stock rubber now the stockmen rubber is is heavy right it's a giant man right but what that rubber will do is soak up whatever torsional loads the block sees when it's under stress these solid metal keep the block stationary and keep her from walking but the rubber here gives it a Liberty gift so that any torsional load that the block it slopes is long skinny block any torsional load that it's seen will get absorbed into that rubber instead of distorting the block another thing people don't realize a kiss by it seems like it's hard as hell right but it's actually a very pliable malleable it's they almost have the characteristics on hard rubber they move you know they and that's how this that's how they live right they're able to expand and contract and move and twist and give the loading right instead of cracking to give so that's why we're gonna stick we're gonna stick with a rubber mount on the on the passenger side of the engine so I'd say we stop a lot of work to do when you paint the inside of one of these things like this let it cure for at least a week before it sees any sort of oil or anything like that the only thing we've got to do left to do to the block itself is just just clean up any any paint that got here or there and give the cylinders and the lift or is a quick home and we're pretty much done with this so that's it till the next time I'll see you tomorrow
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Channel: Uncle Tony's Garage
Views: 124,460
Rating: undefined out of 5
Keywords: Mopar, Dodge, Plymouth, Chrysler, Slant Six, Slant 6, 225 Slant Six, Slant Six race car, /6, zero deck, Block Preporation, Dodge Dart, Plymouth Duster, Plymouth Valiant, Barracuda, Classic Car, Vintage Car, muscle car, collector car, drag racing, street racing, barnfind, junkyard, pistons, honing, Uncle Tony's Garage, Tony Defeo, Windage, oil pan, windage tray, crank scraper, oil pump, broken rod, painting engine, oil pressure
Id: Vm3ce1_YKOo
Channel Id: undefined
Length: 16min 38sec (998 seconds)
Published: Mon Jan 13 2020
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