Hello everyone . Who has long been subscribed to my channel, I think he remembers the video about assembling a homemade electric longboard. Many people, including me, liked the topic of electric transport very much. Ever since that time, I had a great desire to try to assemble an electric scooter. And now, after 4 years, I decided to do it. By the way, for those who are interested, you can go to the playlist dedicated to the assembly of the electric longboard at the prompt in the corner of the screen. Recently, I have connected the super thank you function on the channel. Now, those wishing to support the channel financially will be able to do so. All funds from your support will first of all go to the development of the channel and new cool videos shot for you. Many thanks to everyone who will respond. As the power unit of the longboard, I used a powerful 1800 watt aircraft model engine. But this time, I decided to take a different path. I have repeatedly seen how electric scooters are assembled on the basis of the wheels of a gyro scooter. So it became very interesting for me to find out what they are really capable of. Without thinking twice, I went to an Internet flea market, where I bought an old, but working gyro scooter. I paid about $40 for it. Having rolled on it enough and realizing that as a thing it is useless crap, he began to disassemble it. In fact, from all this abundance of parts, I will use only motor-wheels. Even the battery, due to its weakness, will not work. I decided to start building a scooter from the wheels. I chose a hoverboard with wheels with a diameter of 10 inches or 250 mm. In advance, under these wheels on Ali, I ordered brake discs with a diameter of 140 mm. I will leave links to them, as well as other components for assembling the scooter, in the description. Before disassembling the wheel, it is important to bleed the air so that the camera does not shoot, as in my case. I take measurements and make a spacer for mounting the brake disc. I really liked how these records work on non-ferrous metals. If anyone needs a link, I'll leave it. I will sharpen the adapter from blanks cast using a homemade forge. Not the highest quality casting, but it will do for these tasks. For an accurate fit of the brake disc, I make a centering belt. I mark and drill mounting holes. Using the spacer as a template, I drill holes with a diameter of 3.2 mm in the rim. I drill holes in the disk up to 4 mm for M4 screws. Here it is very important to use low-headed screws so that they do not reach the stator windings and damage them. I cut the M5 thread in the holes for mounting the brake disc . In the holes for attaching the spacer itself, I cut the M4 thread. Who needs a link to a cool set of spiral taps and adapters for installing them in a ladies screwdriver in the description. Initially, the motor wheels of the gyro scooter have a cantilever mount, in simple words they have an axle exit on only one side. Personally, such a performance does not inspire confidence in me. I will build up the axle from the opposite side using a high-strength M10 bolt. In order not to damage, the windings were carefully covered with masking tape. I drill into the axis to a depth of about 30 mm and make a chamfer. The bolt was machined so that in the future it would fit tightly into the hole drilled in the axle. I bait the insert with a hammer, and then I press it in with a homemade vise. In order not to interrupt the wires, I put a couple of open-end wrenches from the end. The tightness turned out to be so wild that the bolt went into the axle with great difficulty. I am assembling a modernized wheel. I took the plug from an old Auchan bike. It did not fit in width, I had to cut it in order to further expand it. I cut the legs of the fork to the required length. The dropout was made from a 4 mm thick steel strip. From a piece of metal 14 mm thick I make a mount for the other end of the axle. I make holes and cut the thread M8. I process the holes in the clamp with a countersink bought on Ali. The recess under the axle can be done with a file or drill with rasp cutters. Here's the mount I got. I fix the clamp on the axle and expose the legs of the fork. I will expand the fork with the help of profile pipe inserts 30 * 20. I boil everything powerfully, and then I clean the welds . The protruding piece of the axis must be removed, this must be done with jeweler's precision, so as not to damage the supply wires in any case . I cut the axis with a grinder at minimum speed, and then break it off. I sharpen sharp edges very carefully with a drill. In the dropout I make a groove for the wire. From a steel square I make racks for attaching a brake caliper. I chose mechanical brakes, cable-operated only because I already had them. Well, in a good way, of course, it’s better to choose hydraulics, it’s much less trouble with it. Brake carefully expose and weld. The front fork is ready. I will make the rear fork from a profile pipe 30 * 20 with a wall thickness of 2 mm. The rear dropouts will be made similar to the front ones. In the profile, I drill a hole for the motor wires. I weld the brake mounts. I round off all sharp corners. To shorten the fork stem, I had to go to such tricks. It was necessary to keep the threaded part, since it is involved in setting the interference of the steering bearings. I decided to make the sides of the case from 2.5 mm thick metal, which, frankly, is too much. The bottom is made of metal 1.2 mm thick. So that the box does not lead, it was cooked at random points. So that when welding the dimensions of the box do not go away, I welded temporary jumpers. I weld the rear fork. From metal 2.5 mm thick I weld the front part. Steering cups also decided to take from the bike. In the pipe I machine the landings for their installation. To correctly set the steering wheel, I made a template from the bar. Having decided on the angle and dimensions, I cut out this part from a 40 * 40 profile pipe. I do the radial adjustment with a drill and cutters made of tungsten carbide. I make holes for the wires with a step drill. It is very convenient to control and set the angle of the steering column using an electronic goniometer. I decided to make the hinge of the steering column folding mechanism from 6 mm thick steel plates and three bushings. Looking ahead, I want to say that such a design turned out to be not powerful enough for the loads that this node experiences. The width of the loop in my case is 40 mm, which, in my opinion, is not enough. I make a hole for the safety bolt. I pinch the hole. Next, the standard steering tube from the ashanbike went into action. An inner voice told me that in order to get a reliable assembly, the entire steering column must be developed and manufactured independently from scratch, and not upgrade parts from a shit bike. Because any thing that has in its composition parts from an ashanbike a priori can work normally, and even more so for a long time . The steering column was welded from what was found in the garage. Namely, an inner tube from an automobile shock absorber and a piece of steering tube from a children's scooter. I did not use ordinary water pipes due to the thick wall and huge weight. I made a self-made eccentric for fixing the loop, by analogy with those eccentrics that are used on bicycles. I cut off protruding corners. The steering mechanism is ready. Under the stem, I machined an adapter sleeve of the desired diameter. I pressed it into the steering tube and fixed it by welding through the previously made holes. The stem was cut, shortened and welded back together. Perhaps in the future I will replace it with a homemade one, made completely from scratch and cast from aluminum. But that will be a completely different story. When the scooter frame is put on tacks, and its geometry is checked, I proceed to scalding. Mudguards were made from bicycles. To reduce the radius, I cut them along the edge with in 1.5 cm increments, bent at a steeper angle, and then boiled. The mudguard mount was made of steel bar and plates. Threaded eyes were also welded on both sides. Surprisingly, this mount turned out to be quite rigid. In the back wall I make a hole for the cable in advance, because then it will be difficult to do it. Again, I cook and grind. I grind and cook. I will make the deck cover from metal 1.2 mm thick. To increase rigidity, I weld ribs to it. To avoid displacement during drilling, I fix it on a couple of points. I will cut the thread with a screwdriver and cool taps with the addition of cobalt. For fitting, I put on the steering wheel. By the way, I bought a new aluminum one. Brake levers and all sorts of little things also ordered on Ali. I will leave links to all the good things for assembling a scooter in the description. I decide on the location of the holes for the cables and wires. I will make the footboard from a long M10 bolt. I made an eye out of metal and welded a hook for the spring to it . A similar hook was welded to the leg. The spring was picked up from an old table lamp. I decided to weld the finished footboard not in the center of the deck, as is done on many scooters, but on the feather of the rear fork. As it turned out, in terms of stability, this option is in no way inferior to the central location, but even surpasses it in ease of use. Well, now it's time to talk about the electronic part, but we will do this in the next video. For the convenience of editing the video, I decided to divide it into two parts. In the next series there will be an assembly of electricians, a lot of useful technical information for those who want to repeat this project, the final assembly, tests and jambs of this scooter. This is where I will end this video. For those who wish to repeat, links to all components used will be in the description. Who is interested in this project, like and subscribe to the channel so as not to miss the continuation. In the meantime, I will not say goodbye to you for a long time.
