Holley Efi idle tips without an idle air control motor

hey guys today i'm going to show y'all some tips on um getting these cars to idle without an idle air control motor a lot of people uh rely upon an idle air control motor to do everything for them when it comes to idle and if you have one that's good you should you know kind of know what you need to do by opening the throttle blade and whatnot but um today i'm just going to go over how i get a lot of the cars that i work with to idle without an idle air control motor the majority of the stuff that i work on doesn't have an idle air control motor they're typically big nitrous engines or um you know turbo alcohol deals and they just don't have idle air control motors so i put a little a couple things into the uh the tune up to to help them idle at the desired rpm so the first thing i want to show you is the idle icf so if you don't have an idle air control motor none of this matters okay but this right here idle spark helps quite a bit right so if we enable idle spark what it's going to do is it's going to go off of this target idle speed table and it's going to add and remove timing um up to 8 degrees in order to try to get our target idle speed so uh let's put our target idle speed at 1100 so there we go so if our total uh idle speed is 1100 rpm what this is going to do is swing timing 8 degrees at idle so if we go over to our spark icf uh you can see that our our timing i just put a generic 30 degrees in here in this table uh just for easy numbers easy math right so idle spark what it's going to do is let it swing up to 38 degrees or down to 22 degrees to try to keep your target uh idle speed of 1100 rpm sometimes this works good sometimes this doesn't work that good so there's two other options that i typically use instead of just using idle spark and that's in advanced tables so if we open up the advanced icf if you don't have the advanced icf you need to go to toolbox add individual config double click advanced and then just click default and hit open but we already have the advanced icf open in here so first thing i'm going to do is show you the 1d table that i use and again like all these videos that i make for you guys um none of these values that i put in here like this timing this this was here for simple math like i'm i'm not telling you to put 30 degrees of timing in your engine nothing that i that i none of the numbers that you see in any of my videos are hey you have to do this no stop it it you know i'm using this so that it's it's easy to do so you know a little bit of basic math so you kind of have an idea of what your timing is going to be so um don't don't think that i'm telling you to put 30 degrees of timing in it you know in the in the uh in the entire map here right so anyway hell we can make this here we'll here just just for reference there you go you got zero degrees above two above 14 or you know 2000 rpm there's zero degrees of timing so there you go uh if you go ahead and take those numbers and you shove them into your uh into your ecu um you know why it doesn't run past 2000 rpm so anyway we're working with 30 degrees here uh the the the number one thing about idle right is is also it's a fuel map has got to be decent okay so if your fuel map sucks or it's all over the place it's uh it's not going to idle well period right so if we have huge numbers uh huge variations of numbers like we got 21 pounds per hour here if we had uh 80 pounds per hour there right and then we had 15 pounds per hour here and we had um six here what do you think is going gonna happen it's gonna idle like garbage okay so um this is actually a this is a global file from a 707 that i tune a 707 cubic inch engine um that i work with but um this is just a don't take these numbers again there we'll do this there you go um so anyway this is a this is a 707 that um i got fired up and uh idling and whatnot and you can tell that the the base fuel table is pretty linear it's pretty smooth there's nothing you know erratic really jumping out at you so the the number one thing is you want to make sure that your fuel table doesn't suck to begin with um but then after that what we need to look at is timing so we do it through advanced tables so we open up our advanced icf 1d table so this is the first way of doing things right so this is called idle time just name it idle timing right the table type is a timing offset and then our x-axis is rpm okay so i zeroed it out intentionally so you know i can walk you through this so if our target idle is 1100 rpm we know that we want no change in timing right if it's settling at 1100 we want it at zero degrees timing if it idles at 1500 we need to remove some timing out of it so let's just go ahead and what we can do is just knock five degrees out of it there right at 1 500 and then we can come up here to 1100 we can left click and hold drag over here and then right click and hit fill row values so what that's going to do is if the if the engine tries to idle up past 1100 rpm it's going to start pulling timing out now i'm going to tell you right now that this is not aggressive enough to make a difference um but it's this is strictly for reference right and now if this thing's idling at 800 rpm maybe we want to put five degrees of timing in it so we can left click hold drag over to that five fill row values so this is something you'll play with a little bit um and you'll see that if you knock four degrees out of it at 1173 rpm you'll wind up having an engine that surges quite a bit okay it's gonna you'll wind up working yourself in circles so you don't want to make huge swings but swings nonetheless will help with keeping it at a steady 1100 rpm idle uh so even when you so you know think about this if it's sitting there idle at 100 rpm you click it in gear and it tries to drop down to 950 it's going to add uh 2.9 degrees of timing and it's going to continue to you know try to get it back to that zero number right so it's always going to try to get it back to that zero at 1100. so it's probably going to sit here and bounce doing this right so that's a simple 1d table for um for for idle and then we have a 2d table that i do uh this is typically what i do with this 2d table i'm going to show you is is pretty typical with a turbo alcohol that doesn't have a radiator this again is idle timing cts right so this is coolant temp sensor this is a timing offset the x-axis is rpm the y-axis is coolant temp sensor well i just got done saying there's no there's no radiator there's no coolant temp in this thing but yeah we shove the coolant temp sensor in the oil pan okay so uh if our target the way this table's built right the way i just slap this together and again these numbers are for reference only they're not you know take them as the gospel but the target here right we've got zero change here so the target is 125 degrees oil temp it'll have 127 rpm right so we're doing the same thing as what we did with our 1d table but it's a little bit more involved because now what we're doing is once we get it up to temp to 126 degrees of the turbo alcohol combo you can cool the engine back down with more fuel right so if it starts to idle up to 1500 degrees we're knocking eight degrees out of it if it's at two if it's reading 200 degree oil temp we want to knock timing out of it right and the activation for both of these tables is tps is below 3 so you can use either or of these tables uh with pretty good success uh this one this particular one i use a lot on on turbo alcohol stuff um it also it helps quite a bit with keeping them running when they're very very cold if they try to drop an rpm start stuffing timing back in it very similar to the way the idle icf idle spark works but it gets lazier with timing stuff in back of the engine as it warms up so the reason why this works you know a little bit better than just using your um your uh uh idle spark idle spark works very good click the box it works right it'll it'll make swings of 8 degrees but um this seems to keep them leveled off quite a bit and again we're making no change at 1127 rpm because that's our target right so this is just a reference these these values in this table they're strictly for reference but hopefully you can understand what's going on here right so if you're at 1500 rpm that's too high if your target's 11 so we're going to knock some timing out of it until it brings it back down if you find that if you find that no matter what what you do no matter what you do with this table it's always seeming to uh to want to run around 1300 rpm well back a little bit of throttle blade out of it if you back a little throttle blade out of it uh you'll you'll see that this is uh you know functioning correctly if you find that the thing just coughs and the only way it starts is if you give it a little bit of throttle there's a good chance that you don't have enough throttle blade in it and that's something that i see a lot on the uh on the groups and the forums and whatnot and the questions of hey it starts and it idles for three seconds and then shuts off you you may mechanically have to actually um get a an allen wrench and adjust your uh your throttle blade um as crazy as that sounds you may have to actually do it um it's it's a bummer but you have to be somewhat mechanically inclined also to make a fuel injection work so give it a little bit of throttle blade if it's just always sitting down here no matter what you do right if no matter what you do with these tables or swinging timing um it's always sitting down here you don't have enough throttle blade in it and uh if it's you know again if it's no matter what you do with timing it's always sitting up here at 1 500 rpm um you got to knock a little bit of throttle blade out of it so this is to take a the the concept behind both of these tables is to take a car that mechanically is sound and uh the thought process is that it was you know it should idle um but maybe it's high or it's low or maybe it idles perfect when it's in gear but when you when you pull or when it's uh not in gear but when you pull it in gear it tries to die down this will help that situation so this will help that situation with temperature as well this isn't strictly for just turbo alcohol no you know using this for oil temp you can absolutely use this for coolant temp as well uh and then the the last thing that you know some of you guys uh i'm sure i'd hope you know but you can go into your spark icf and you go to modifiers and you can put a couple of degrees in it as it's warming up and then pull it out once it warms up most people just use this as a uh you know they knock timing out of it when it gets way too hot right so but you can do it the other way too you can jam a little bit of timing in it when it's warming up so and if you're starting up your hot rod and minus 40 degrees um that just sucks you should probably move 40 degrees below zero is terrible so uh you know get somewhere where you're like the 30s you know the lowest so anyway hopefully this uh this video helps some of y'all and uh hopefully i got the audio fixed uh my last batch of videos everybody complained about audio if my audio isn't fixed i'm not going to remake this video uh that's just all there is to it so hopefully you heard me and if you don't hear me and if you didn't hear me the whole video you probably can't hear me right now when i tell you to just put some headphones on so anyway see you

Channel: devin vanderhoof

Views: 4,202

Rating: 5 out of 5

Keywords: holley, holley efi, dominator, hp, term x, terminator x, idle tuning

Id: NLgv5SjMHlg

Length: 13min 1sec (781 seconds)

Published: Mon Oct 19 2020