Hem Your Own Trousers with Blind Stitch | DIY Tailor Series

Agence today I'm here with Louis he is a tailor he runs aspiring gent you can check him out on Instagram I'll link to him below but I'm also going to link to several videos that we're working on today where we're going to be repairing some chinos trousers and jeans we're gonna do them by hand we're also gonna be doing them with a machine where you going to show you how to taper up shirts which is the main thing that I always tried to do it couldn't really accomplish and so I asked Louis to come down so he can show me how to really do it so we're gonna look at doing some wool trousers I have trousers here that are maybe like an inch too short I'd like to lengthen them I can I see there's enough material here to lengthen them but it's pretty easy to do by hand yeah it's really easy to do by hand kind of actually pretty hard to do on a home sewing machine so we'll show you that technique and really cool skill to know because most trousers are sold either unhand or not at your right length to begin with so as long as you have enough extra material in there lengthening it won't be that fun alright so to start off with we'll link to a video where you show how to stitch how to thread the needle exactly then then jump back here and we'll show you how to do the blind stitch lewis is gonna take a look and see what type of work we're gonna do so you can definitely see when they're nice and snug down there probably about an inch off of that perfect no break right at the top of the shoe look so what we're gonna do is we're just gonna untaek all of the stitching that's already there drop it down press it free tack it back up both sides exactly yeah it looks like usually once you measure one side you don't have to do the other side unless the person has a tendency to have a shorter leg on the other side which does happen from time to time but all right we'll do an inch on both so we have the pants line here on the table and we already removed the ribbon from in here which if you're dealing with custom clothing you'll have more often than not and as you see it's already blind stitched on the inside and what we're going to do is we're just going to take this seam ripper and we're gonna pick it all out you can use a knife or razor blade or something like that I suggest using something like a seam ripper which will help avoid from ripping fabric if this is your first time doing this kind of work otherwise a knife would work if that's all you have on you so here we go now as you see this is kind of the mark where the old one is and we need to drop this down one inch so we're gonna grab a tape measure ruler you can use your tape measure but a lot easier gonna go down from the hem one inch chalk now this is just generic tailors chalk you can buy anywhere sewing supplies are sold it's able to be seen really nicely on dark fabrics but gets removed with steam like that flip it up mark the bottom side and that is where we're going to roll it up and stitch it for the new M sake of not losing your mark you can use pins and this so you come when you use a needle just mark it right where you want it to be so that way you don't lose your spot when you press it if the marks go away next step is we're going to take the iron and press out this guy we're going to take the iron just press it on here get some steam we're gonna do is we're gonna take this we're gonna measure up from the bottom if your pants have already been hem it might be a little bit uneven but because this is freshly Serge we can use the bottom measurement otherwise when you took your first mark make sure you put enough pins to just remark it but since I didn't have them on me I'm just gonna go inch and a half up from the bottom you make this mark and to make life a lot easier on you we're going to use the iron again to press the new crease take the pant turn it inside out roll it up to that line you marked and the reason why you want to iron it before you go and make this one is because getting rid of that old crease is important to do right off the bat otherwise you'll see a crease through the pant leg when you're lengthening it when you're shortening it it's not that big of a deal but always the best practice to do each time you do the hems on your pants same deal take the iron all righty so with your threaded needle you're going to want thread that matches the color of the fabric you're working on or in least in the same darkness in this case we're using black you want the thread long enough to be able to go all the way around so you're not stopping or having to patch anything in the first thing you're gonna do tie your knot wrap it around the needle a few times pull it through your thumb index finger cut off the tail you're gonna start with taking the fabric in your hand like this I like to pull the needle through the little fat flaps to hide the knot start just like this take your needle push it through the bottom fabric and here's where the blind stitching comes in you're going to take the needle on this one we're just going to go right into here once you get onto the outside fabric you want to be very careful only to grab one or two strands of thread so that it's not visible from the outside and pull it through skip ahead and do the same thing just grab a few threads material that's what it won't show through and pull stick your needle through this flap of fabric here you're gonna go right into here and you're only gonna grab a few stitches you want to make sure it's not seeing on the outside like that pull through and you're going one of the stitches to be pretty close together so that your feet aren't snagging on the material this is why you want to use beeswax tend to bunch up on you so once you get down to these last few stitches here I like to end it on this little side seam because it's easier to hide the tacks you just want to take it pretty much how you into most hand stitches pull it through once go in on itself go through the loop tight through the loop and hold tight one more time just to keep the thread from undoing the knot snip it there you go then you're gonna want to just turn it inside out check your work and press it one last time to make sure that everything is nice and that is how you have a pair of dress slacks so you have a gents hope that gives you a little more confidence to do some DIY tailoring at home whether you're having some pants tailoring a shirt I think you do lists are coming out and work on the series with me I've wanted to do something like this but I've never had the expertise in order to say like this is actually how you do it I just kind of fart around at it and yeah grab some practice stuff go home get a machine or do some of the hand stitching and just go to town practicing honing it before you actually go on your real stuff but guys it's super easy and anyone can do it yep so check out Lou's this channel I'll link to that below he's working on some really cool stuff and see you around the internet as a pleasure alright so next i'm jenn statistic heavily you

Channel: The Kavalier

Views: 66,817

Rating: 4.8620691 out of 5

Keywords: menswear menswear unboxing mens clothing, mens clothing review, menswear review, mens fashion, mens fashion review, trouser hem, pants hem, slacks hem, hem slacks, hem pants, at home tailoring

Id: CZqbnrudifE

Length: 9min 1sec (541 seconds)

Published: Sat May 04 2019