Hattori Hanzo cutting board - CNC inlay - Broinwood tribute!

about three years ago I was watching a chap on YouTube called brother in wood and he makes some fantastic ingrained inlay chopping boards using a CNC and this really was the inspiration for me to get into CNC myself I've made a few engrain chopping boards but now I thought it was time to recreate his most watched piece that I believe got about 4 and 1 half million views one of the local Woods over in America where Brethren wood is from is Walnut and a contrasting wood he uses is maple here in the UK it's harder to combine as more expensive Oak tends to be our natural wood and that's what I've mainly used up until now the process of making an engrain chopping board can be quite laborious cutting down a lot of strips gluing them together to then recut them down again to reglue them back together again takes time but these boards are much Kinder on your knives and don't damage so much as face grain boards so it is worth the effort in the long term this is the result of the first glow up and I appear to have missed a step here these boards are chopped up again and then reglued food to give us this product here which is the finished engrain chopping board exactly the same price process of making an engrain board is completed with a contrasting wood brother in Wood being in America has mapled a hand here in the UK Beach was much easier to get and it was nicely contrasting against the Walnut this board isn't made as thick because it will only be for the inlay and not actually part of the finished board being as careful as I can here not to overtime to end up with my usual banana board this is the start of the CNC process first off I'm just going to flatten the board the board was made Fairly flat but it's important to start off at a good point I'm now going to use the depth probe just to let the bit know exactly where the board is I'm only going to take off a couple of Mill [Music] here [Music] I'm now going to start making the pocket in the Walnut board the first bit I'm going to use is a 1/8 in endmill and this is just going to take out the majority of the wood before I come in with the finer bit to do the finer details most of the time I have the dust shoe on to extract the dust but I've left it off here so you can see the bit working you'll also notice from the cam software what bits are actually being removed with the 1/8 in N Mill before the finer bit comes in that's the 1/8 in and Mills job done what I'll be using now is a tapered ballnose endmill which is a slightly taper bit it has a 0.25 mm radius tip and has a side angle of 5.05 De this is so the the sides of the pocket are very slightly angled which helps the plug engage a bit better and makes a sharper finish I think you can see by now that this is all quite a labor intensive process brother in Wood looking at his website charges approximately $15,000 to $2,000 reach of his boards which isn't surprising when you see the amount of work that goes in the 1/8 inch endmill took about 2 hours to clear out the material now I've moved on to the tapered B no endmill the level of detail is quite insane and this cut process I'm guessing took about 4 hours the pocket in this Walnut chopping board is cut to a depth of 9 mm and this is so the plug that is inserted in there can be cut to a depth of about 7 or 8 mm and this will give an excellent wearing surface the dust extraction on the CNC does remove 95% of the Dust but there is a small amount of impacted dust at the bottom of the finer pockets and the best way to do this is a craft knife and just spend several hours picking it out if you don't do this you'll find the plug when that's created will not sit right in there and you'll never get them to marry together properly I'm starting now to make the plug out of beach that will go into the Walnut pocket to make this it's a very very similar process except for everything's inverted the the image is mirrored so when it's flipped up it will go inside and any bit that was part of the pocket in the wallnut board is now a raised part in this beach inlay another four or 5 hours of Machining here very closely followed by a couple of hours of picking out the bits of dust with a craft knife again for a little bit of contrast I'm cutting the logo out of a yellow wood called Igbo which I'm hoping might contrast nicely against the beach and Walnut this is make or break time now when the two parts are glued together I did a dry test fit but you can't push them together too hard or you'll never get them apart again I use a hydraulic press probably creating a couple of tons just to squeeze the two parts together if they're not squeezed together you end up with horrible gaps that you can never get rid of and you can see from this shot here I've got a good marrying to get together there's only about a millimeter gap which is exactly what I was after now is the Moment of Truth when all the excess speech and a dig bow is milled off and we'll see how well the inlay is gone I'm going to take the level down to the surface of the Walnut board ready for finishing and sanding on initial inspection it looks like the inlay is gone very well and then now comes the usual sanding working through the Grits starting at 60 to remove the worst of the material going all the way up to 240 before finishing I'm now squaring the board up on my table saw to be honest I wish I'd done this at the start rather than doing something like this when the board's down near finished I'm now going to continue the sanding and I'm raising the grain here by just spraying some water just to get the smooth as finish possible this is the bit that everybody who makes dropping boards likes and that's the oiling of it which basically signifies the finishing of the board some people like to use oil bars where they douse the whole board under the oil I tend to find it takes ages to dry and you've always got oil percolating out of the board I tend to find many thin layers over the course of a few days gives a better finish and also helps the Board dry and not be oily this is one of the final coats of mineral oil you can see how shiny the board is cuz the oil is not wanting to soak in anymore so I'll leave this for a couple of days before I put on some board wax just to see it I quite like a board wax off Amazon I believe it's a mixture of beeswax and mineral oil and it's got some Citrus smell to it as well which is quite nice but the main reason for doing this is it keeps the moisture in the board and also seals the pores as well so if you were to cut meat or vegetables on there the juices don't soak into the board and turn it rancid this will now sit for another few days just to soak in and stabilize before it's all buffed off so that really is the board finished if you're wondering why I've basically copied brother in Wood I've made several original boards this was the one that got me into see and seeing and I always wanted to make it so if you think of it it's almost a tribute to him if you're wondering who hatori Hanzo is I had to look it up myself he's app ly a legend samurai from many hundreds of years ago I also noticed as well on the internet when I got the logo that this hatori Hanzo is actually a restaurant in Madrid and I don't know whether brother in Wood did this as a commission for them I hope you all enjoyed watching the making of this board as much as I enjoyed making it as I said I think this was several years in the making and also kind of Hope brother in Wood sees it as well and maybe makes a comment

Channel: 120 Woodcraft

Views: 13,062

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Id: vgkyNiEMQgc

Length: 13min 33sec (813 seconds)

Published: Thu Mar 14 2024