GRR-RIPPER | Full Instructional Video (2018)

hi welcome to the micro jig shop and congratulations on your recent investment in the gripper my name is Morgan and today we're going to be going over just about everything you could possibly need to know about the gripper the first of which is unboxing and assembly so let's go ahead and get started first thing we want to do when we open this box is make sure that everything is there first thing is your user manual next is your warranty registration card the actual main body of the gripper a center leg we have a quarter inch leg a half inch leg bag of hardware your handle and your balance support now that's for the gr 100 the gr 200 is everything that comes in the gr 100 box with two additional accessories the stabilizing plate the adjustable spacer and their hardware let's start assembly by attaching the handle to the main body and to do that you need the two quarters 20 screws the two larger oval nuts and two large washers that came in your hardware bag but the washer onto the screw first and then put the screw into the holes at the top of the handle and then with the Bulge side facing the handle we screw on our large oval nuts again washer onto the screw first then screw into the hole on the handle and then bold side facing the handle you thread on the large oval nut now it's ready to go on to the main body the screws and nuts are in your handle we're ready to put it onto the main body so you just slide the Oval nuts into the t slots on top of the main body just Center the handle and tighten the screws those t slots are going to keep that oval nut in place alright first step down let's keep moving once the handles on we're gonna put the center leg on you're gonna use these small dovetail nuts you insert it at the holes at each end of the center leg from the inside facing out then just insert those dovetail nuts into the t slots on the ends of the main body now you see there's a screw sticking out on each end so you just take your smaller washers put that on the screw first and then these green female knobs all right Center leg is on we're almost there each leg attaches with two screws two washers and two o-rings and I'm going to show you what those o-rings are for in a minute so you simply slide the washer onto the screw and then the screw into the inset hole on the outside of the leg now we'll hold it there while we slide the o-ring onto the screw on the other side of the leg once you put these o-rings on you'll likely never see him again but the reason they're there is so that when you remove the legs you don't want to lose any of this hardware the screw or the washer very small or easy to get lost and the o-ring keeps it in place so even if you remove the leg or rings gonna keep that there so you never have to worry about losing it now just align the screws with the breast inserts on the main body and screw it in half-inch legs on let's do the corners like the quarter inch leg goes on exactly the same way bounce support is really easy to put on it just goes on with two of these green knobs two washers and again two o-rings so just put the washer over the knob and then insert the knob into the slot on the outside of the balance support and then roll that overhang on the inside and you'll see there's a little recessed channel here for that overing to sit in and again it can attach to either the quarter inch leg or the half inch leg both sides have brass inserts for the balance support knobs to go into alright see that wasn't so bad grippers assembled and now we can move on to the fun stuff okay if you're still with us that means that you have the gr 200 and you've got some more accessories to learn about stabilizing plate and the adjustable spacer so let's go ahead and dive right in with the adjustable spacer locate your blue hardware bag that came in your gr 200 box you'll notice that the adjustable spacer requires the exact same hardware that the balance support does and it attaches the things gripper the exact same way so you already know how to do this but to refresh your memory it requires two of these knobs two black o-rings and two steel washers and just like we did with the balance support the washer goes over the knob and then you insert the into the outside of the adjustable spacer and again just like the balance support you slide a no ring on to the other side and it sits inside of this recessed channel here there we go our rings are doing the job they're not going anywhere see the adjustable spacer attaches to the opposite side that the balance support is on and it goes in the exact same brass inserts that the balance support would go into all right the adjustable spacer is going to give you an additional inch of ripping capacity on your gripper okay let's go ahead and get our stabilizing plate ready for use you'll notice that there's two sides one side it has a recessed Channel and the other side is flush the t-bolts are gonna go into the recessed side and that's the bottom you see that the stabilizing plate is flush on the table and those bolts aren't dragging on it now you take your red o-rings that came in your blue hardware bag and you slide that down over the t-nut down to the base of the t-nut next we'd take our shoulder washers we slide those down with the flat side facing up now we just take our wing knobs and we screw those on to the t-bolts now the stabilizing plate attaches to the bound support by sliding the shoulder washer into these notches here well done now your grip is assembled and ready for use we refer to the gripper as a 3d push block and we call it that because unlike any other push block in the world the gripper gives you three directions of control the green grip on the bottom here grabs the wood and it allows you to maintain constant pressure downward onto the table inward toward the fence and forward through the cut what's unique about the gripper is that it's designed to control both the keeper and the offcut side of your workpiece and the reason that's important is because you never ever want to lose piece of wood just rattling around that spinning blade I'm sure that most of you like all of us have used push sticks in the past I'm going to show you what's wrong with push sticks right now the friction on the bottom of your workpiece wants to bring that wood away from the fence no matter what you do every time you push it it's going to want to pull away from the fence every time so when your workpiece passes those front teeth as it moves along the body there's a little bit of room not much but just enough there's a little bit of room for your workpiece to move the gripper keeps it tight against fence without the gripper that piece may want to stray away from the fence and make contact with the back teeth as they're coming out of the back of the saw when that happens you run the risk if one of those back teeth grabbing the workpiece and shooting it back out at you that's the root cause of kickback and that's what the gripper prevents what the gripper does to eliminate that problem is that it keeps constant pressure to the fence and downward on the table and that controls both sides of your cut keeping it from pinching the back of the blade that's not only important for preventing kickback but it also gives you a much cleaner cut we call the gripper removing blade guard because it allows you to control your piece from the top throughout the entire cut it creates separation between your hands and the blades so even if you were to have an accident your gripper paid the price and not your hands if or when you cut into one of the legs on your gripper don't worry about it's not a big deal all of these legs are individually replaceable and they're a lot cheaper than a visit to the emergency room now that we've covered some of the key benefits and safety features we're ready to go ahead and make our first cut since the quarter-inch leg is up against the fence I'm going to set the fence to a quarter inch so I can show you a quarter inch cut when making cuts with the gripper there is some technique involved but it's simple and very important a good way to achieve these cuts is by putting your stock against the fence and then setting your gripper on top of the stock just separate it a little bit and then sliding it toward the fence as you push your workpiece through the cut you're applying a little pressure downward but also toward the fence and that's going to make sure that your workpiece is staying parallel to the blade at all times quick tip once you set your center leg and your fence it's a good policy to pass the gripper over the blade just to make sure that it's clear and as always safety first we're at protection now you'll notice that I had complete control both sides of my workpiece throughout the entire cut a matter of fact I was able to pull it back toward me with both sides of it in the exact same position relative to one another the only thing that's missing is the kerf that the blade took out you'll also notice that there's no burning or blade marks because the gripper kept the piece parallel to the blade the entire time now that we've ripped this quarter inch piece we can actually rip it down again to one quarter inch by one quarter inch and here's where your balanced support and your Center leg come in put that piece against your fence and then set the gripper on top and against the fence now you'll notice that wobbling we don't want a wobbly that's why every gripper gr 100 and gr 200 comes with this balance support the grip on top and push it to where the outside leg is tight against the fence then you loosen these knobs and drop your balance support and it's that easy now we have no side-to-side wobble and now here's where your Center leg comes into play even though this is a small piece you can still control both sides of the cut by adjusting the center leg you slide the center leg over so that it's covering as much of the offcut side of your workpiece as it can without making contact with the outside of the blade that looks like a good spot and again we're gonna run the gripper without the workpiece under it just to make sure that we have clearance for our blade oh yeah it's good stuff now the blade is going to pass right between the center leg and the quarter inch leg that's up against the fence and we're still going to be able to control both sides of that workpiece now we ended up with an offcut side that is slightly larger than a quarter of an inch so we can rip that one down two ways not one not check that out a clean quarter inch by quarter inch cut safely and easily try doing that with a push stick again the center leg of the gripper is adjustable so if I want to make a small cut like a quarter inch I can have the center leg controlling the offcut side if my cuts wider say two inches I can have the center leg positioned on the fence side of the blade and the half inch leg is going to control the offcut side now if you remove the balance support completely and just use the gripper body by itself you can use the half inch leg up against the fence in the quarter inch leg to control the offcut side and this will give you a ripped capacity of about three inches you see I was able to keep control of both sides of the cut still and this small off cut side is still being completely controlled by the gripper if you need to make a cut wider than three inches you put the balance support back on to the gripper onto the side with the half-inch leg using the gripper with the balance support riding against the fence you'll get a rip capacity of about five inches [Music] watch this about covers the basics stay tuned as we dive in a little deeper and explore the versatility of the gripper with various accessories different configurations and advanced techniques thanks for watching up to this point we've seen what the gripper can do right out of the box but now let's have a look at some of the accessories we make that you can use with your gripper to give you more control safety and functionality there are four main accessories we make for the gripper one of them is the handle bridge kit next is the gravity heal kit then there's the deflector connector and last but certainly not least this is our most popular accessory is the eighth inch leg and since we're already at the table saw let's go ahead and have a look at the eighth inch leg the eighth inch leg attaches right here gripper and it's used to you guessed it make eight inch cuts you can attach it either to the main body by removing one leg or you can just put it on to the side of either the quarter inch leg or the half inch leg it's a matter of preference it also includes the hardware so that you don't have to use the same hardware for one of your other legs so you can attach it right onto the side of one of the legs just like the quarter inch leg and the half inch leg the eighth inch leg attaches the gripper using two screws two washers and two o-rings and you can attach the gripper one of two ways you can either remove a leg and attach it to the main body if you remove a leg and attach it to the main body you're going to use these two screws right here the top ones if you choose to attach this onto the outside of one of the legs use these two screws right here the lower ones that are a little bit further apart just like we covered in the assembly portion washer goes over the screw screw goes into the hole and the o-ring slides over the screw on the inside the leg see that it's going nowhere genius so I'm going to attach it to the side of the quarter inch leg so that easy the eighth inch leg is now installed ready to make eighth inch rips all right the fence is set to one eighth of an inch bear in mind this is an eighth of an inch leg so if you cut into this leg it's not going to kill you but this is not really going to be much left on that leg to work with so again move your material and run the gripper over the blade just to make sure that it's clear I think we're good so let's make that cut and here we have a smooth clean 1/8 inch rip let's go ahead and rip it down again to 1/8 by 1/8 just for fun check it out eighth inch by eighth inch and the likelihood that you're gonna need parts this small is not that high unless you're making your own matches or toothpicks or something but if you're making your edge banding or any other kind of decorative inlay the eighth inch leg is exactly what you need earlier on in the assembly portion in this video I instructed you to install the handle onto the dead center of the grippers main body and the reason for that is because as you're applying downward pressure you want all of that pressure to be evenly distributed across all three legs and the only way to do that is to have it centered the handle bridge kit however allows you to reposition your handle and still apply pressure evenly on all three legs every handle bridge kit includes to handle bridges a trailing hook and I'll get to that in a minute and their hardware installation is incredibly simple just remove the stock handle just like before the washer goes onto the screw and then the screw goes in to the hole through the top of the handle then you take your handle bridge screw goes into the center slot here on the handle bridge and then the square nut goes onto the screw in this recessed channel here in your hardware bag locate the four 1032 screws and the corresponding washers and oval nuts the screw goes in to the top of the handle bridge and then the Oval nut goes on to it on the other side when you put it onto the main body make sure that the brass inserts here are facing the outside of the gripper and just make sure that the bridges are centered on the gripper body okay the bridges are tightened down now you'll see that your handle has a nice range of motion and you can set that handle at whatever angle feels comfortable for you also included with the handle bridge kit is this trailing hook and it's mounting hardware you can attach the trailing hook into the same T slot that the center leg sits in using the T Bolt you attach the trailing hook and then slide your washer over and then of course the wing nut you'll notice that the trailing hooks it's a little bit lower than legs and that's because it acts as a heel to help push your material through where they're using a router bit that takes out a lot of material the trailing hook just helps move the material along through the cut also on the handle bridge you'll notice these four brass inserts and that brings us to our accessory the deflector connector the deflector connector includes the deflector connector plate and the hardware which is for yellow quarter-twenty knobs for shoulder washers and for o-rings let's go ahead and start by installing it on one gripper slide your shoulder washer over the screw portion of the knob and then roll your black oring on over that in addition to being a chip deflector it can also connect to grippers together and for that you'll need the other two knobs this becomes especially useful when you're working with larger stock it gives you a lot more control by covering a broader surface if you're working with longer stock and you don't want to do the hand over hand motion you can connect to grippers together long ways and make one giant gripper out of it pretty awesome [Music] the last accessory we'll be covering today is the gravity heal kit in the gravity heal kit package you'll find 5 gravity heels - heel spacers 2 T bolts and two washers - Springs and to shoulder washers and two yellow wing knobs to take your heel spacer and slide it over the T Bolt with the female notch and the male extrusion facing out then the spring goes over that then your gravity heel and you're going to want to make sure that your female notch and your male extrusion are aligned with one another after that put on your shoulder washer and finally your wing knob in this situation it would be used as a static he'll I tighten this knob down and it's gonna support the workpiece from the back and that's ideal for smaller work pieces so now if I loosen the knob slightly it becomes dynamic so if I'm cutting a longer piece of stock on the table saw or I'm using this on the jointer using the hand-over-hand method I can reposition my gripper as many times as I need to for longer stock and it's just gonna retract up and stay out of my way until I reach the end of the workpiece in which case it will drop all the way down and support it from the back to push it all the way through the cut there's a couple things that are unique about the gravity heel one is that it's dynamic and it'll retract when used on top of a workpiece the second is that it's made to be cut so you're using it on the router table and you're using a bit that takes out a lot of material well the gravity heel will support it from the back to make sure that even though it's difficult to get through that cut it'll push it all the way through but also because it's made to be cut it'll completely protect the end of the workpiece from tearing out the profile that you're routing on your workpiece will just get routed out of the gravity heel because these are designed to be sacrificial we offer two packages one is the gravity heel kit which includes all the hardware and everything you need to install them but once you go through all the gravity heels that are in that kit you can buy the package that just has the gravity heel replacements and it's very affordable because we know that you're going to go through these and that's what they're designed to do one situation where the gravity heel comes in awfully handy is when you're cutting a piece where the offcut side isn't very big and there's not enough material there for the green grip on the center leg to grab a hold of it even though the center leg isn't touching the offcut side the gravity heel is supporting it from the back and it's going to push it all the way through the cut to keep it from running back out at you well that concludes the accessories portion of the video series see all these accessories in action on different tools in the shop and their respective chapters thanks for watching over the course of this video series we're going to be talking about lots of different applications for the gripper using all sorts of different tools in your shop but this chapter is specifically for using the gripper on the table saw the first thing we want to consider when using the gripper on the table saw is the length of material that we can cut using just one gripper in order for the gripper to work it needs to be on top of your workpiece on top of the table for instance this piece is cherry it's right in front of the blade as though I was about to start making a cut this is about as far back onto the table as I can put my gripper without it tilting back on me I don't want it tilting back on me needs to be on the table let's imagine my stock was longer I'm going through the cut and I get to this point here I would have to hold it down move my gripper and adjust my grip to continue my cut you never want to do that that's very dangerous the first reason is you're gonna see blade marks every time you stop burning and blade marks are warning that your piece is making too much contact with the back teeth of the blade and that means kickback and that means no fun that being said for stock 18 inches or longer we recommend you guessed it to grippers by using two grippers you're able to control it at the front of the cut and all the way at the back now once you reach this point if your stocks longer than this you could reposition the gripper that you have in the front to behind this one here and continue making that cut using this leapfrog method and that works for stock this length and theoretically it would work for stock a mile long if you have the outfeed support to do it technically you could cut longer stock using just one gripper but we don't recommend it and here's why if you're starting the cut with just your hand once you get close to the blade you have to stop reposition your grip start again stop reposition and start again and then once you've reached the end you finish it off with a gripper not only is that dangerous but it's gonna take you extra time to sand out those saw marks so that you can continue working with that piece it's annoying and it's a needless waste of time nobody has if you're the skeptical type I don't blame you so that's why I'm gonna show you right now what happens when you try to cut long stock with just one gripper [Music] [Music] if you look closely you can see a blade mark everywhere that I stopped to adjust my grip there's either a burn or blade mark or both you can see right away the difference in cut quality that's because I didn't have to stop and readjust my grip I was able to feed the material through the cut without stopping using to grippers almost as though I had a power feeder now we already know that the gripper is awesome for making vertical cuts but what about bevel cuts by I never asked so you can tilt the blade to 45 degrees and make miter cuts using your gripper one thing to bear in mind is that because your blade is tilted the higher you set your blade the more it's moving to the side and that's cutting into your rib capacity another thing to keep in mind is where you position the center leg on a bevel cut you want to make sure that it's never above the blade because as you're putting pressure down because the blade is tilted you're putting pressure down onto the blade if you're putting pressure onto the blade directly you're not going to get a good cut [Music] the gripper is also great for cutting veneers veneers are usually very difficult to cut on a table saw for a couple reasons one is this space underneath the fence you can't really run it along the fence because it just slides underneath two sometimes when it's a longer cut the veneer has a tendency to ride up over the blade it doesn't want to actually stay down on the table so to cut this piece of veneer I'm gonna use my balance support up against the fence and I'm going to use the gripper out here over the veneer to keep everything down on the table right near the blade all right safety glasses it's leather it that was the easiest thing I've ever done right out of the box both the gr 100 and the gr 200 are capable of ripping material down to as small as 1/4 inch by 1/4 inch using the quarter inch leg against the fence I'm gonna show you how to do that right now now we're using the quarter inch leg up against the fence so we're going to use the center leg to control the offcut side again you always want to make sure that your balance supports set right so that your gripper is putting even pressure directly down onto the table [Music] so that's one we can actually rip this down a couple more times to 1/4 inch by 1/4 inch and again now you're going to need to adjust your balance support all right now we're balanced and we're going to move our center leg in just a little bit more to make sure that we're controlling that offcut side and lastly remember it's always a good idea to run the gripper without the material in there just to make sure that your legs aren't going to hit that late the other way around and just like that we have quarter inch by quarter inch cuts ripped down by the gripper safely and easily tried to do that with a push stick although the gripper was designed primarily for use on the table saw the way it was designed makes it versatile so that you can use it on just about any tool in your shop if it requires control and safety odds are the gripper can help so now let's have a look at some of the ways you can use your gripper on the bandsaw one of my personal favorite ways to use the gripper is resawing material on the bandsaw material that's bigger than just a few inches can't be rece on on the table saw it needs more capacity and the only thing that you can do that on is a bandsaw so the larger the stock that you have to resaw the more surface area there is that you need to control odds are if you're cutting rough lumber it's not going to be square so it's not gonna sit totally flush on the fence or on the table but because your gripper is square you can press it tight to the fence and press the gripper down on the table surface so that you know that it's saying parallel to the blade the whole time and of course the best and most important feature is that it's keeping your hand way out here nowhere near that blade when I resold this piece I was running along the fence but not every bandsaw has a fence so if you don't have a fence you can do that same thing with two grippers check this out pretty neat huh another great way to use your gripper on the bandsaw is for cutting veneers the process is the same as it was for reselling the material like I just showed you but no piece this wide presents a good opportunity if you have the gr 200 or the upgrade kit it presents a great opportunity to use your stabilizing plate and adjustable spacer the way the adjustable spacer is designed it's pretty awesome the green grip is just inset just ever so slightly so that you can run it vertically and not worry about that green grip sticking to your table surface because that's exactly what it's supposed to do this way not this way and you can also add the stabilizing plate to the balance support when you add that to the balance support you got to make sure that you drop the rest of the gripper down because it elevates it just so slightly what the stabilizing plate is going to do for us here is it's gonna provide some extra support up here at the top of the material a lot of times when reselling people will use feather boards all that's doing is just pushing the bottom of the material into the bottom of the fence it's not securing this up here at all secure this up here with a feather board you have to use your hands and then once you start getting toward the end you're getting pretty close to that blade and then you have to reach around and pull it from this side I don't like the way that looks and I don't think you should do it alright we're just about set up to cover veneers but there's one more accessory that I'd like to add this is a 12 inch wide piece of oak this is a powerful bandsaw but oak is notoriously hard and it may be difficult for just the green grip to push this through that cut so I'm gonna add a gravity heel the reason I put that on is because I know that while I'm cutting this veneer I'm gonna want most of my pressure to be up front but as I move toward the back I'm gonna have to reposition my gripper until I get to the end here once I reached the end it'll be able to grab the back of that material and support it through the cut and finish it off all right there's a few great ways for you to use your gripper on the bandsaw there's more tools more applications and more to learn in the other chapters so tune back in and thanks for watching we've seen the grippers put to good use on the table saw the router table the bandsaw now let's check out the jointer because of this green grit material the gripper is an excellent companion when you're using your jointer whether your face joining or your edge joining you can turn it both ways and it's going to help you and it's going to keep you safe each time you're amusing to grippers and I've got to meet set up a little differently so you can see the advantages of each configuration first off I have gravity heels on both of them the reason I did that is because this is a long piece of stock and I'm gonna use the hand over hand method to feed it all the way through the cutter head and once it reaches the end then that heel is gonna engage and push it through the end of the cut this one I use an adjustable spacer just because it adds an inch of extra gripping material and when you're faced joining it's good thing to have as you know it's important to have one flat smooth edge when you're joining material so that it comes off 90 degrees that's just another awesome way the gripper can help you out in your shop I was able to flatten this material on the jointer without my hands anywhere near this powerful cutter head the same way it does on a table saw the green grip the adjustable legs and the balance support give you incredible control over your material on a router table let's start with one of the more simple processes we're just going to route a basic dovetail groove into this piece of MDF coincidentally this is the same dovetail profile and router bit depth that we use for our match fit system so check that out later [Music] you'll notice when I routed this part the balance support wasn't engaged so I'm gonna route another one with the balance support engage so you can see how it works on a router table just like that let's say I wanted to make some cabinet doors and I wanted to use rail and stile joinery so in order to do that I have to use a railing style bit and these bits tend to take out a lot of material which can give you some resistance so the gripper is going to help us get that piece all the way through the cut and combat that resistance but also on this cut I'm going to be using a gravity heel like I said it removes a lot of material so when you reach the end of your piece you don't want it tearing out so the gravity heel is going to get it through the cut but it's also going to protect the end from tearing out [Music] are you see what happened there it routed that profile out of my gravity heel which is good because that's exactly what it's designed for it pushed it all the way through the cut and it prevented the end from tearing out that's a nice clean end that I can work with without having to chop it off or sand anything if you don't have the gravity heels or you don't want to tear yours up you can still prevent tear-out on the ends of your work pieces by turning your gripper into a coping sled turning your gripper and new coping sleds incredibly easy if you have the stabilizing plate that comes with the gr 200 all you have to do is attach your stabilizing plate to a scrap piece of MDF we recommend 8 by 12 and you do that with just 4 screws and these notches on the ends here and this will not damage your stabilizing plate you have that secured you just attach a stabilizing plate to the balance support like you always would and run it all the way back to the end and tighten it down and the stabilizing plate you'll notice it adds a little bit of elevation to the bottom of the gripper and that just gives you a little bit of clearance when you're routing that profile so now instead of the edge of the gripper writing along the fence we're going to be using the edge of the MDF [Music] coping sled works to clean edges no tear out beautiful sometimes you need to route a profile where the bit sits above the material in those situations you need to use the adjustable spacer I'm using this Roman ogee bit and the bit sits well above my material which is fun if I have the adjustable spacer now we have clearance for our bit we're also able to use the adjustable spacer to ride on the fence and then we have the quarter inch leg and the center leg gripping that material one of the main advantages that the gripper is that it always has a flat edge to ride against the fence but if you're using rather than without the fence the gripper is still extraordinarily helpful let's say I want to duplicate this circle I made the circle is my template and I want to get it onto this MDF I went ahead and roughed it out on bandsaw a little bit earlier and I double-sided tapes it so that it would stick together now I'm going to use the gripper to keep the material together and flat down on the surface so that I can template this circle onto the MDF [Music] you see the gripper allowed me to keep my material together and firmly down on the table also I was able to pull it back and adjust my grip every couple inches and keep routing without any problem if you want to route a groove into the edge of a board and you're working with a piece that's taller than it is wide that's a good opportunity to use the stabilizing plate [Music] I cut some parts for a project I'm making and I want to give him a slight round over on all sides these parts are a little bit long so just like on the table saw we're going to use two grippers to continually feed it through [Music] gorgeous those are just some of the ways that the gripper can give you better control and more safety on your router table thanks for watching we're gonna wrap up this instructional series by going over just a few care and maintenance tips for your new gripper the gripper is a very low maintenance piece of equipment there's just a few things to keep in mind moving forward that's going to get the most life out of your gripper as a general rule you just don't want to allow a bunch of sawdust to build up in your shop not on your saw not on your wood whether it's wax or oil or sawdust things can build up on your tools and they can build up on your green grip so it's a good practice to once a month wipe it down with 91% isopropyl alcohol it's good stuff it's very easy to find in any old pharmacy or grocery store it's all over the place just give it a couple sprays and wipe it down with a clean cloth or paper towel good as new you'll be amazed at how you can restore your traction with just a little bit of rubbing alcohol if you're using your gripper correctly the Green grip should never wear down because it moves with the park there's never friction it always just stays on top in one place you can however cut into these legs and I say can what I meant was will and when you do that's okay because all of these legs are individually replaceable in our online store but these lights can take a few cuts before they need to be replaced so as long as you don't feel like it's affecting its gripping power you should be fine you'll notice that the center leg if you move both sides at the same time it moves very smoothly if you try to move one tied at a time it tries to bind up but if you ever feel like it's getting sticky a little bit of paste wax in this tea slot will make this thing run like butter one last thing to keep an eye on is your or ings these o-rings are rubber and like any rubber over time they can get dried out it can crack and it can break and these are rings are important because as you're moving parts around reconfiguring your gripper you don't want to lose these knobs that's why the o-rings are important so if your rings break or get lost those are replaceable and again available in our online store under normal conditions your gripper should last a very very long time so just take good care of it like you would anything else in your shop don't leave it out in the Sun with a green grip face directly up don't take it scuba diving or don't bring it into outer space other than that you should be in good shape enjoy you

Channel: MICROJIG

Views: 315,236

Keywords: GRR-RIPPER, Microjig, table saw, safety tools

Id: C6yx8fZaIEw

Length: 37min 42sec (2262 seconds)

Published: Tue Jun 05 2018