Grooming poodles is not easy. But if you work smart and with the
right equipment, it can go really fast. Would you like to see me do that? Well, this is the video to watch. Every first Friday of the month,
we have a new Kitty Talks Dogs video and if you are subscribed you will get
a message when the video comes out. Hello and welcome back to Kitty Talks Dogs. I'm very proud today to introduce to you Vuitton. Vuitton is the son of our standard
poodle Harry, who we lost in 2003. It's still very emotional to see Vuitton because Vuitton is just like his daddy and he will stand still on the
table and he's a fantastic dog. Vuitton lives in the country and his coat
cannot grow too long for easy maintenance. I will show you how to use snap-on
combs so you can work really fast. It's very fun because when you use snap-on
combs the hair is the same length everywhere. The only thing you need to do after the snap-on combs
is comb the hair up and scissor until it's smooth. You don't need to worry about
extra curvings or anything else. We just follow the dog's body with the snap-on combs. If you are interested in any products I'm using, there's a link to them down below. I am so very grateful Kitty Ponnet is helping me to
do all the washing and all the prep work for Vuitton. So, Kitty, thank you. Here you will see us cleaning the ears. Here you see Kitty Ponnet using the ear powder. It's very easy with the ear powder to
pull out all the dead hair in the ears. It's very necessary this hair is taken
out because you can get infections. The air can't go in the ears. It's really necessary that you take it out. With this special powder you have more grip. Afterwards you can even put a wet wipe
around and you can use it to clean out the ears. Then we are using the Ear Care. The advantage of using the Ear Care
is: the product is a little bit thick. So, when the dog accidentally shakes his
head, you won't get liquid all over the place. Ear Care will dissolve all the dirt and all the grease and it will be easier to clean out
afterwards with the bamboo sticks. Here you see us clipping the nails. We are using the large nail clipper today. Where the pads are flat and the nail grows here, if you clip it flat, you won't cut into the vain. Here you see picture of the nail where you
can very nicely see where to clip the nail. After we like to grind the nail
a little bit with the nail grinder. Because then you have no sharp edges and when the dog jumps on you or on
the couch or wherever, you won't be hurt. Let's do some clipping. Today we are using the basic
Heiniger clipper and the blade guard. For the feet we are using the #30 blade. It's very easy. You just go against the growth of the hair. You just take every single finger
and you go in between the fingers. You do it slowly. You don't hurt the dog. You don't push the dog, you don't grip too hard. On average the dog will let you do this. People are asking us how far or how high you can go. It's actually very easy. You see it here on the drawing.
You see where the pad starts. You just take the bottom of the foot
and where the pad starts, you shave here and then you have like a V. You shave until you see where the hair starts. Then you have the back of the pad shaved and you can just turn around
and see here where you started and then you draw the line all the way, there to there. Here you also go against the grain. If you follow this rule and you each time turn the foot around
and look where you started in the back you will create a very nice line. It won't be too high. When your blades are getting too hot too
quickly maybe they need some lubrication. When your blade is really hot, you
can use the Instant Ice Blade spray. Here you see us clipping the muzzle. This is with a #10 blade. An average rule is you take the dog like this and everything in front of my hand is done
against the direction of the coat growth. Everything below my hand is
clipped with the coat growth. It's very easy with a #10 blade, you just clip it. Just be careful around the
eyes and don't push too much. When you are too close to the front of his
mouth I like to push his mouth down a little so he can't put his tongue out. So accidentally he doesn't put his
tongue against the clipper blade. Here you see a very nice line from the eye to the ear. It's very nicely done. Then you see like a little V from the ear to the chest. Let's also do the tummy. This
is done with a #10 blade as well. Make sure that everything is nice and clean under there. Don't take a blade which is shorter than a #10 blade. If you do the dog might have irritation and a rash and it's not something you want to do. If you have a standard poodle as a puppy you can even teach him to lift
his front legs to do his tummy. Because when you teach them as a puppy
to do that, it will be much easier later. You just have to be very careful at the groin where you can go either on the inside or the outside. But just be careful you don't go flat on with your clipper. The tail. The tail is something very personal. Some people like it more seen,
other people like it like a teddy bear. Morgan, the owner of Vuitton, likes it like a poodle and not too short at the back
because he has a long tail. It's important at the tail, where the
tail comes out of the dog's body, you go quite far, but not too far. Easy way is when you lift the tail up and down. If you see too much hair moving at
that point, you can go a bit further. Let's do some washing. We are first going to wash Vuitton with the
Show Tech Pro Super Clean 40 shampoo. Pro Super Clean shampoo is really
one of our favorite shampoos. It's very concentrated. The only thing you need to do is dissolve
it in a bit of warm water and use a sponge. This deep cleaning shampoo will
dissolve all the grease and all the dirt. It's just a very fun shampoo to have
because it's going to create a very good lather. The second shampoo is the
Show Tech+ Pro Romance shampoo. The Romance shampoo is
just a very good mild shampoo which is designed for long hair
because it's got some conditioning in it. It's just very good for this type of hair. Now let's do some rinsing. The part where you rinse is actually also
necessary to give a massage with a nice grip because that's the part where all the dirt goes away. As you can see here we are still massaging
and rubbing and pushing all the shampoo out. Because that's where all the rest
of the dirt is being rinsed off. The Show Tech Ultimate Conditioning Mask is
a very thick and very concentrated conditioner which penetrates the hair shaft and
will moisturize each strand of hair. After you have left the conditioner on and it's
penetrated the hair, it will put a film on the hair and it will also be much easier and quicker to dry. A good rinse. While you are rinsing out the conditioner you will feel ... First of all, when you first start
rinsing, the hair will be all slippy. You need to rinse until you feel that
it's not slippy anymore on your fingers and that it's back to the natural state of the hair. So, let's have a good shake. Let's do some drying. Here we are using the K9 power blaster. This is a very fast blaster which will
actually blow all the water out of the coat. While the dryer is blowing all the water out of the coat the coat will be straight because of the force of the air. It works very simple. You have a motor and you have a little tube. At the end of the tube you have a little hole. All the air is forced through the
pipe and comes out this little hole. It's very fast. The dryer itself is not very noisy but when you put the dryer end on the
dog that's where sometimes it's very noisy. Most of the dogs need to be
used to that since they are a puppy so they are well behaved after and they let you do this. You save hours of brushing time if you do this right. The only thing you need to do is hold
the dryer nozzle 10cm away from the skin. Some people make circles, some people make eights. The only thing you need to remember if you use a blaster
is: stay at the same spot until all the hair is dry. Then you will go from a wet coat to
a dry coat and you will straighten it. If you leave your spot and it's still damp, because it's a poodle and
because a poodle has curly hair, if you leave it to go to another spot
and your first spot is still damp it will cringe back together and it will be curly again. So, the only thing you need to do
is stay at the spot until it's fully dry. Now let's do some brushing. Here you see us using the Magic Touch spray #3 which is especially formulated
for the dense coat of the poodle. Why we use this spray is: if we've missed a
spot with the dryer and it's still a little bit curly we spray on now and we will use the hot air with a brush and it will make it easier to make
every single strand of hair straight. We are using the Zeppelin dryer. The Zeppelin air dryer is a very good dryer. It's got a lot of air volume. The fun part is it has variable speed. So, for whatever dog. If it's a standard poodle and you need a lot of air or if you have a puppy where you don't need a lot of air. Because puppies need to get used to the dryer,
you just twist it and you have little air flow. Why do we need to brush after the blaster? When you use the blaster, because
of the air, it will straighten the coat. But then you still haven't brushed or combed the coat. So, now it's very necessary, with the warm
air and the brush, we straighten each hair. When you put the dryer on the dog you
see like a star where the hair goes open. You need to twist around that star. Everywhere where you need to
brush, you need to follow the star. So, the star needs to go all over the dog. That's why the dryer has a
nozzle which you can turn around. You need to make sure that every single spot is
nicely opened with the warm air and the brush. At the front leg you see a nice line. If the hair would have been not
straight or still curly or not well brushed you would see a zigzag. Here you saw a very nice straight line in the hair. That's because it's been well brushed and well dried. Here you see us using the self-cling bandage. This will make sure that the hair on
the ears will stay exactly very straight. We will keep it on for clipping and for scissoring and the hair will not get in our way. When the customer comes we will take them off
and the hair is going to be nicely exactly very straight. Let's do some clipping and scissoring. You see that the hair is very straight and very well done. Because Vuitton is going to be
done with the snap-on combs. For using the snap-on combs you need to
make sure that the prep work is done perfectly. I mean perfectly. No matts, no curls. If you want to have a good result with snap-on
combs, every single hair needs to be straight. The other thing is you always use a
#30 blade with these snap-on combs. Because the #30 blade has very small blades. It doesn't need to go through the hair. As soon as it touches the hair it will clip it off. Here you can see a picture of the difference
between a#10 blade and a #30 blade. I'm using the 19 millimeter wide snap-on
combs to do the shoulder, to do the back. But I'm not going to go very close to the head. I'm going to leave the whole
neck as much as possible long. So afterwards we can gently
scissor the head into the neck. Here you see me clipping a line from the
back of the neck to the back of the tail. This is the only horizontal line I will do. Because, after this, as you can see here on the
drawing, I'm following the natural hair growth. It means I'm not going to go from behind
the shoulder to the back of the leg horizontally but I'm also going to go sideways
each time and not make any lines. You don't need to push with the snap-on combs. Here you see me even lifting up the front legs. I'm going, for his tummy, the
whole way against the hair growth. So, that's also not a problem. Here again I'm a bit careful for the groin. I'm just making sure that the skin of the groin is not going in between my blades. So, I'm going on the groin like
this and on the bottom like this, but not sideways. Here I'm doing a part of the legs. Here you see me switching to the
13 millimeter wide snap-on comb. This I'm going to use for all the parts which needs
to be extra short, like the chest and the tummy. This is going to make it much
easier afterwards for scissoring. Here I'm making him sit down
so his chest is pushed forward. All the way against the direction of
the hair growth I'm clipping his chest. Then I can even switch again to
clipping with the direction of the coat. Because I want the chest nice and short. Here I'm careful because his chest
bone is sticking out very much. That's okay; I'm just going in between. I'm using only one side not to make any
lines between the long and short part. I used it here to go over the part
which was done with the 19 and 13. Then also at the tummy I used one part of the blade. I lift it up and then you have no lines and you don't have to fiddle around with the scissors. Here you see me taking a #10 blade
again because Vuitton is very commercial and the legs are going to be extremely short. I just decided to, on the inside as well,
shave a little bit more and take a bit more off. Here you see me using again the
#30 blade and a snap-on comb but this time is the 25mm
snap-on comb for the legs. Another advantage of using these snap-on combs is: imagine you have the legs which are round, every time you pass by it will be perfectly round. You don't have to find yourself for making it round. Automatically it's going to be all around
very round and very correctly round. The only thing you need to do is
the scissor work, the finishing. With the 25mm I have now clipped all the legs, all sides. Except one part: the hock. The lower back of the back legs I'm not
doing with these 25mm snap-on combs. I'm just leaving the hair long because
there I need the hair to be slightly longer. I'm going to use the Heiniger
StyleMidi to set the line here. It's going to be a beautiful line very quickly as well. The only thing you need to do is comb everything down. Here I was using the Utsumi comb. When you combed everything down you make sure you
go towards the line which you made with your clipper and then just shave everything off in a straight line. This will again save some time
not to fiddle around with scissors. Go all the way around, also at the back. You see here the result. It's very easy. The only thing you can't do, if you put
your hand down, is: go down and then turn. So, make sure you keep it straight. We are actually ready for scissoring. The scissoring will be the smallest part because
all the other preparation was the biggest part. I'm also very proud to show you our latest scissor line: the Yento Fanatic scissor line. I like my Tikima scissor holster very much. My scissors are always next to me. I don't put my scissors on the table because
when I put my scissors on the table they fall and I have to get them sharpened. Combing everything down at the front legs. Doing just the same as I did with the clipper. You see I don't have to do very much. Most of the hair is gone and it's just the finishing. Now I'm just going to comb everything up and just making sure it has a good finish. Now here you will see me most
of the time scissoring and combing, scissoring and combing and scissoring and combing. So, it's actually the whole time repeating. Vuitton is so good. He stands like a statue. He was always so good but now with aging ... He's now at this time ten years old
and he's even better than he was before. Here I'm showing with my hand that it can go in a bit and then you have the chest and then at the shoulder here it goes in a bit. So, I'm just following the natural line of the dog again. For me poodle clipping is like drawing. I always make a point and then another
point and then join everything together. I started at the bottom, I made my round. Then I went up to the shoulder, I made the shoulder short. Then those two points, I take the scissor and I go up or down from the top
to the bottom in one straight line. It's just like a drawing. You take a point and a second point
and then you connect both of them. For me the front here is the most
important point of the whole dog because if this point is correct
the whole dog is in balance. If this point is too low it's like the dog is leaning forward or his legs are too short. Or his legs are too long when that point is too high. So, this point for me is the most
important point in the poodle. As you can see here you don't need to worry
anymore about making the paws round because the hair, because we've done it with
the snap-on combs, is everywhere just as long. We just need to turn around and make
it as round as possible from all sides. You see me showing the front leg and you
will see the front leg is straight, straight down. For the front legs I am using
the Yento Fanatic 18cm straight. Mostly either I'm scissoring
upwards or I'm scissoring downwards. You won't see me scissoring a lot on the side because I tend to have lines when I do that. I prefer to scissor vertically either up or down. Of course at the bottom of the
feet you have to go sideways. But I prefer, if I can, to go either up or down. I don't know if you see it but
it's really not very difficult. Because of the snap-on combs
you only have to do finishing. You don't have to worry about
lines or making an extra round or shorter at the front or the back. It's just straight forward. Just combing and scissoring. Here you see me taking the chunker again. Why? Well, because at the back,
when you put the tail up, when you look from the profile,
you need to see everything rounded. You won't see any hair sticking
out at the base of the tail. Even when he's wagging his
tail or when you put the tail up. It's very easy to go extra short with the chunker. Another thing: Vuitton, I can't show you this,
but when you touch Vuitton, Vuitton is very skinny. If you use the chunkers to do
this line it's going to be very easy. You can go really close to the backbones, which are sticking out very much
from Vuitton, without having any lines. For me it's very important to
have the back in a straight line and then gradually going up to the top line. For me, I always say to everybody: a
poodle has a back which is horizontal and then he has a neck. His neck doesn't start halfway his body. His neck starts where his neck starts. I really follow his natural body line. You know, the back is horizontal and then after his shoulders
gradually the neck is coming. I'm just scissoring as the dog is built. After I've made the line with the chunker
then I'm just going to do the finishing. Here you see me using the
20cm Yento straight scissors. Now it's just combing and maybe standing
back a meter having a look at what you're doing. Because when you're always
standing in front of the dog, 30 centimeters away, you
won't see things anymore. So, don't worry to take a meter or two back and have a look sideways and to your grooming. Then you'll see what else you need to change or maybe go a little bit shorter or just go and see your line from a distance. As you can see now I've changed scissors again because I really wanted to do the
finishing with our Yento Damascus scissor. Here I was pulling the skin on the other side a little bit to make the skin tight on the other side so here at the groin I can easily
blend everything in with each other. Here you see me in slow motion,
what we do when we comb. We put the comb into the coat, we turn and we pull. A bit further we do that again
and it's actually lifting the hairs. You will see the hair sticking out and you can
finish them off by scissoring them smooth. Here you see the scissors working in slow motion. You see how little hairs come off each time you scissor. When you look at the front of the dog the
neck needs to be straight and not bubbling out because it is a commercial line. We are working ourselves towards the head. As soon as the back is done
and we are happy about the back then we are going to finish
the neck and then do the head. As you can see here a bit at a time. We are moving and finishing the back. Slowly again, a bit at a time, I'm finishing his neck. As his neck needs to be totally blended in with his body I'm doing a bit at a time to make sure I'm totally
happy with his body before I finish his neck. That's why I'm now changing again to the body because I've probably seen
some more hair is sticking out. As you can see I always use a straight scissor. But when you're a fan of curved scissors you
can totally use curved scissor to do this part. Because as you can see I'm doing that all the time. Now I'm changing to a curved scissor
and it should make our life easier. Where I'm standing now on his left side I'm looking over his back and I can easily
do the rounded part on the other side. Because when you stand there on his left side
looking over his right side you can see the profiles. When you comb up you can see the hair sticking out very much. You can do his right side of his neck. So, that's exactly what I'm doing because when you stand there you
have a sight all over the two sides. Okay, here we go, now the head. When I do the head I prefer to do the outside. I make that the line between
the eye and the ear is perfect. I will go over that as many times as it's necessary. And I won't touch this part, the
top part, I will only touch the sides. Then I will do the side of the neck
and the other side of the neck and at the last part I will do the top. I'm working towards the neck and the top part all the time until I'm happy with it
and then I will do the top of the head. What is important when I do the poodle's head
is that I always keep the nose horizontal. I never put the nose up or down. I also keep the dog standing down on his four legs. I keep the nose horizontal and that way
I can make the nice line of the head. I don't have a head which is sticking out too much. It's also very important when you do the ears
that you don't pull the ear and then do this line. You keep the ear in his natural position. If you would pull the ear and then do the line you would go too short after you stop pulling the ear. So, I'd never pull the ear for doing these lines. You see me holding the ear up but no pulling. Here I just put Vuitton on the floor
to have a better view on the top part. Here you see me combing again,
the whole head until the neck. Now I'm going to have a good look on his left and right side and then I'm going to finish the top. Last bit: the back legs. It's not much work because I've
shaved the line with the clippers. The only thing we did here was pull
all the hair down and cut the circle. First the bottom part of the legs
and then we will do the top part. Since we've done the front of the
back legs with the snap-on comb and the back of the back legs
not with the snap-on comb, we left a hock a bit longer, we can
create a little bit angulation there. Here on the picture you see the hair on the hock
is slightly longer to create a bit more angulation. You don't have to be afraid just below
the back legs, the pads, to go very short and then outwards towards the hock. For me angulation is very important. So, here you see me lifting up the dog's back leg and where it's folding here I'm going really short. For this I'm taking the blenders. Sometimes I can see a bit of skin in there. But I really don't mind because for
me angulation is so important. I prefer to go extremely short there
and then to have a very nice line and to see the angulation afterwards. Here you see me holding his sitting bone. I'm holding this bone because that's my highest point. So, everything ... I'm holding it because everything is going
to be scissored towards that sitting bone. Below the sitting bone is going to be as
short as possible to the place where it folds. To have a rounding there, then in and then back out. Here when you stand on his left
side and look towards his right side you can see a nice angle there coming. I'm just going to work on that
because for me that's very important. Here you see very nicely the angles
coming and the roundings coming. It's also very important to me that the
dog is never too wide on the top part or wider on the top part than the bottom part. That's why I make it very short at the groin. And I'm going that way and then backwards this way. It's very important and it's all to do with
angulations and balanced of course. Here I'm just lifting again. Now I'm joining the short part with the hock part. For the finishing I was just using
some Show Tech+ Quick Fix spray. When you spray some Quick Fix spray, you will
see the points better where you need to scissor and then it's easy scissoring. Here from the back you can see nicely the angulation. From his left side you can see the angulation very much. Now we are very much nearly done. Here you see me again taking the chunker because
it was simply a little bit too long at his groin. And when it's too long there you
can't make the dog slim at the top. Because it's commercial it needs to be as
slim at the top as at the bottom of the legs. Here you see me again trying to
make it a bit shorter at the groin. For the tail I'm just combing everything
towards me to the end of the tail, twisting and then cutting it off. I'm holding the end of the tail very
nicely between my thumb and finger so I don't cut the end of the tail. I just cut the hair. Then I'm going to do the opposite. I'm going to hold the end of the
tail, comb everything to the front. Everything to the front, comb, comb, comb. Then doing the front all around. Then that's going to create
my base for scissoring the tail. Then the only thing I need to do is comb and scissor and comb and scissor until I'm
totally happy with the result. Maybe shake a bit. Here I have a pin brush to make the
hair stay up and nicely voluminous. I couldn't handle all the hair being just thrown away. I took the hair and put it together
and made a little poodle with it. So, here you go. Here you see a happy finished Vuitton. This was Kitty for Transgroom TV. I really hope you enjoyed the Vuitton video. Here you see the before and after pictures of Vuitton. Please hit the subscribe button. If you are interested in any of the
used products please look below. There is a link to all the products below. Thank you for watching and see you next time.
