Grinding Bevels and Heat Treating a Farriers Raps Knife | Knife Making | Vlog

what's up everybody so we're back on the shop and today we're working on the farrier's rasp knife now today's goal is to go ahead and whenever i say today's goal i mean today and tomorrow's goal because this is going to be two different days all wrapped up in one video primarily because i'm starting this video at uh nine o'clock at night so uh i figured i would go ahead and get the grinding done today so like the initial bevel grind get all that knocked out today so that tomorrow i can go ahead get off work a little bit early and then do the heat treat work on some more of the grinding so the goal is today initial bevels tomorrow heat treat temper bevels maybe some hand sanding buffing tomorrow's gonna be a long day so i uh i'm gonna go ahead and knock that stuff out and if i've got to do a little bit more sanding and then buffing on sunday i'll still be releasing the video on sunday it just might be uh released at about noon instead of 9 00 am so we'll see how that goes but we got to start this thing so let's go ahead let's get into doing the bevels and again to remind you what i plan on doing here we're going to do the bevels and get the edge to about the thickness of a nickel and then we're going to go ahead and heat treat and then we're going to temper and then we're going to go ahead and grind the rest of the way and the whole point behind that is i want to be able to grind through the d-carb layer so whenever you go through and you heat treat a knife typically you're going to end up with a d-carb layer so you're going to have a layer that has forged scale and a lot of that comes off whenever you quench a lot of the four scale does but we're gonna have that forged skill layer i'm not worried about that we're gonna end up going through that layer anyways but there is gonna be a layer of d-carb as well and sometimes that happens more because you overheat your knife so let's say before i quench i'm going to go up to 14.75 degrees so 1475 degrees and uh i'm gonna keep it at that temperature using my baffle that's in my forge so because i'm not gonna have direct heat going straight on it it's a little bit easier to keep the temperature like that so the goal is for it to stay between that 1475 and just under 1500 degrees for the 10 minutes and then we're going to quench it and as long as i don't let it get above that like just below 1500 degrees it should be the perfect temperature going into the quinceant so we don't have a ton of d-carb now what ends up happening is you have people that overheat their blades so you're not really gauging it that well and you end up going up to 1550 1600 degrees and then you plunge it into the oil and whenever you do that it flares up really bad and then you end up with a pretty heavy decarb layer and you end up with a really gritty grain structure instead of a smooth just fine fine fine grain structure so there you go my goal is to not have much d carb but i want to go ahead and grind the bevels the rest of the way after that especially because we're going to go down to a pretty fine edge before we put the secondary bevel on here so the cutting edge but that's the goal let's jump into this let's get it knocked out so what we're going to do here is just use a marker to mark the edge and then we're going to be using a screw for the scribe now i've got a bunch of different ways that i do this but this screw just happened to be able to scribe the thickness of edge that i wanted which was that nickel edge thickness so you can see it right there it's a little bit easier to see in person the light was kind of drowning out the line but what we're going to do with the grinding process is how i always do it we take an older belt a 40 grit belt and we break that edge which means we grind a pretty aggressive 45 degree angle all the way to the cutting edge and that way it makes sure that our edge is centered and the thickness that we want it and all we got to do from this point is bring our bevels up to the height that we want them on the side of the knife so what we're going to do here is we're going to use a newer 40 grit belt and we're going to bring those bevels up the side and you'll see this as i'm going through this process the bevels will gradually start pulling up so as we are working this we're going to need to be paying attention to where we're applying the pressure because what you're trying to do is apply even pressure towards the spine all the way down the blade but there's going to be times where you are accidentally applying a little bit more pressure towards the plunge line or towards the tip and it's going to start making your bevels uneven and what you'll see right here is my plunge line is a little bit higher than the tip area and what i want to do is start bringing that bevel up higher towards the tip so what i'm going to do to achieve this is i'm going to start applying more pressure on the spine towards the tip and a little bit less at the plunge line area and what that's going to do is it's going to start bringing that bevel line up a little bit higher as we're going through to the tip it'll start evening it out and you'll end up with a cleaner bevel so a lot of this is just figuring out where to put the pressure and you're not like changing the pressure aggressively you're just applying a little bit more pressure as you start getting closer to the tip so that you start bringing it up and once you get it up there to where you want it then you're gonna start applying even pressure again so to where you can just keep that same bevel the whole entire way and you do get really good results if you can figure out how to do this and it's going to help your grinding game tenfold once you get used to where you're going to put the pressure how easy to move it back and forth so you get good results if you just slow down and pay attention to what you're doing and do not rush yourself [Music] now right here what we're doing is a little trick that i use to not have to put in more work later i use the porta bandsaw to kind of cut in where i want my sharpening coil to be and i use it to do a lot of the work because i do that and then all i got to do is a little bit of work with a chainsaw file and then what i'll do is i'll grab some 220 sandpaper and wrap it around the chainsaw file and get it all nice and smooth but this is my trick to be able to do this as fast as i do it so porter band saw and then chainsaw file and you get these results right here all right so we're going to do a intermission here for one this is just going to be the end of day one uh but i wanted to stop and tell you for something real quick so not an ad not a sponsor or anything like that if you only ever wonder what i use for noise cancellation or ear plugs for you know ear protection stuff like that i was using a pair of just random ones that i got off amazon that i really liked until i lost them and i was on a trip delivering a trailer to a place that's like six hours from where i live and i ended up buying these these are samsung earbuds pretty freaking awesome uh they have like noise cancellation and like dynamic sound and all that stuff which i really like because as soon as something gets loud in the shop they kind of you know drowned everything out and make it quiet and then you know of course i'm listening to music the whole entire time or i'm listening to a podcast or something right now i'm listening to music uh deftones which is you know one of my favorite bands uh that's what i'm listening to right now but yes let's talk about the knife this is where we're at right now for the end of day two so the bevels are looking absolutely awesome got that nice crisp bevel on there no weird waves or rolls or anything like that and it would look awesome if i left the bevels exactly how they are because this just looks really good uh but again we're gonna do a high polish like sand buff and everything on this and plus we still have a lot of material to remove so we do have that edge the thickness of a nickel right there but i'm also going to be bringing the bevel up just a hair there will still be flat up here but you want to leave it like this before you end up heat treating and then regrinding and all that because if you bring this up right here to your final bevel height and then you go to grind it again you're going to grind have to grind past that and you don't want to do that or you don't have to but you could accidentally do that me i'm going to grind up just a hair past this but then i'm going to focus primarily on bringing the bevel in towards the cutting edge now what i mean by that is if this is the belt this is the blade whenever you lay it down there i'm gonna rock the bevel to where it's focused primarily on being close to the edge now it's not going to be drastic like this but instead of putting pressure towards the spine to bring the the bevel up on the blade i'm going to put a little bit more pressure towards the cutting edge and it's going to bring this the stock removal to where it makes the edge thinner so that's the plan there we're going to be doing that by i and not so much i'm not going to draw another line on there which i could do but i'm not going to do that i'm just going to do it by eye and bring that edge almost to a zero edge so that's the goal that's what's going to be happening tomorrow so there you go uh let's go ahead and end today and i'll see y'all tomorrow so when it comes to heat treating i'm going to be using the baffle to keep the direct heat off the blade so that i can control that temperature a little bit better and once we know that it's non-magnetic we're going to go just past that and i've got to keep the temperature at that for about 10 minutes so i'm going to be turning the heat down and turning it up as i go through this to make sure that i keep it the color that i want you see i have it turned down right here all right y'all ready for this this is the first time doing a water and oil quench so we're gonna see how this goes [Laughter] now it's time to do the tempering process we're going to do 375 degrees at 2 hours that's just my preferred way to temper with my oven now when it comes to the grinding part at this point i had footage of me using the 120 grit belt because that's what i started with after the tempering process but that footage was corrupted so i couldn't use it here is the 400 grit process that i finished with so all i'm doing here is just doing finish grinding making sure that my bevels are nice and even that i don't have waves in them and then we get a lot of the deeper grind lines out of the blade this is just applying light pressure and just focusing on keeping nice even movements because you could easily put a wave or a ripple in your bevels at this point if you're not paying attention so just light pressure back and forth until you get your desired level height and thickness all right guys let's go ahead and actually wrap up the vlog right now so where we're at right now we've got the bevels done to the point that we want them to be on the 2x72 so we went up to a 400 grit belt on there got the bevels nice and smooth we've got you know just beautiful bevels on there and plunge lines and everything but we've got to do a whole lot of hand sanding and whenever we actually hand sand even though this looks really cool right here where you can see that hard line we're going to end up whenever we're done hand sanding this is actually going to go away right here and i know that looks pretty cool but i want that so you see how right there you just have the triangles going all the way up when you go right here you can see there's a little you know a change in flatness and everything i don't want that i just want you to focus purely on the triangles and everything so that's the reason why whenever i hand sand i'm going to break that line and smooth it all out so just a little sneak peek at what we're going to be doing whenever we start hand sanding now the reason why i'm stopping at this point is because we still have like two and a half hours worth of hand sanding and i want to be able to you know talk to y'all while i'm doing that and this video is already going to be pretty long so i think it's just the right time to stop right here and on the next video for this what we're going to be doing is we're going to be doing the hand sanding and buffing and you'll be able to see all of that plus we're going to be making the handle skills which are going to be using this material right here so it's vulcanized paper and g10 now the you you might not like the colors or you might like the colors i don't know but the plan for this is doing the handle the same way i did one of my knives back in the past where it was black and that same color green that's in this and all you see is the line of that color all the way around the handle scale like whenever you're looking at it from the side you can actually see it and it looks really cool having that pop of color right there so what we're going to do with this is a high polish buff on it and then the maroon or burgundy whatever you want to call it with that awesome punch of color sticking out in the line which is going to be really cool it's going to be a little bit unique it's going to be something that i haven't seen color combo wise and i think it's going to look really nice on this knife especially whenever we get done with the contouring on the knife because it's going to add some dimension to the handle that you typically wouldn't have so that is the plan that's going to come up on the next video but guys this is where we're ending right here thank y'all for coming by you know if y'all would give this video a thumbs up share this video or one of my other videos and if you haven't yet bottom corner hit that subscribe button so you get notified of the stuff that we have that's coming up guys thank y'all for coming by thank y'all for spending your time with me y'all have an amazing day y'all stay safe out there make sure you get your toilet paper because everybody's buying out all the toilet paper again for some weird reason guys i'll catch on next time you

Channel: The Rivers' Experience

Views: 8,675

Keywords: knife, knives, knife maker, making knives, blade, blades, skill, skills, experience, the rivers experience, hand made, forge, vlog, shop talk

Id: vHMCwMOUREI

Length: 17min 50sec (1070 seconds)

Published: Sun Nov 22 2020