Spain's Architectural Wonder: The Great Mosque of Cordoba

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In the year 711 the Umayyad Caliphate invaded  Spain and occupied the Iberian peninsula for   hundreds of years, eventually they were expelled  by Isabel and Ferdinand the same kings who   financed the expeditions of Christopher Columbus,  but before then, Muslims had really placed their   influence on the architecture and culture of most  of the Iberian Peninsula in a very strong way.  Probably the most important religious  artifact that remains to us from the   Islamic culture of Spain is the Great  Mosque in Cordoba, but to understand it,   we first need to be in context with Islam,  and with how Islamic architecture works.  The history of Islam begins with the history of  the life of Muhammad, who is a historical figure   born in 570 AD. He founded the Islamic religion  and he had various episodes in his life involving   exile and return to Mecca, and initiating conquest  of many territories surrounding his native lands.   He died in 632 AD and already shortly  after his death the first Caliphate   emerges. A Caliphate is an institution  governing a territory under Islamic rule,   and the person who holds this institution carries  the title of Caliph. After Muhammad’s death,   Caliphates continue the expansion of  territories through jihad or holy war,   and territories like Jerusalem and Damascus become  incorporated into the expanded terrain of Islam.  This is Kaaba a large rectilinear volume  in the middle of the Grand Mosque of Mecca.   this cube shaped object  dates from pre-Islamic times,   but it's considered to be one  of the holiest things in Islam.  It is the sacred center of Islam and  the Grand Mosque of Mecca is a place   to which many pilgrims pay their homage,  but rather than look specifically at this   mosque we will look at the type of mosque and  variations on the theme of the type of mosque. The type of the mosque is probably the most  significant architectural type that we get   out of Islamic architecture. The kinds of  celebrations that go inside of a mosque   are different from Christian celebrations they  don't involve the same kind of procession they   don't involve the same kind of pageantry  they really are more about the Assembly   of people coming together to pray together. It's a place to gather the faithful, it's a   place to help orient people toward the direction  of Mecca, it's a place that becomes symbolic and   capable of organizing prayer and call to prayer. There are a couple of things that every mosque   should have, for example there should be a mihrab  or a niche, this is an element that is engaged on   this major wall called the Qibla facing Mecca, and  it organizes the direction of prayer. So Islamic   architecture is very interested in the development  of interior space because it has to provide   sufficiently capacious spaces so that large  crowds of people can come inside and worship,   and it's really interested in providing some kind  of directionality, some kind of graining through   the site that emphasizes this very important  direction around which prayers are organized.  Other elements would be the minaret  which is this tall spindly little tower,   there would be someone coming up to the  top of the minaret and making a call for   prayer so that people can observe  their daily prayers on schedule,   and you also need a courtyard for assembly  and a fountain for ritual cleansing.  So as we look at various permutations on the type  of mosque we'll begin to see these things played   out in various ways. Probably the origin for the  idea of the mosque and the constituent parts of   the mosque comes back to Mohammad's house. Muhammad's house is meant to have some kind   of courtyard and a kind of wall that orients  and so forth so this very simple enclosure   almost a kind of hypostyle hall becomes the  constituent element to define the mosque form. With the Umayyad Caliphate of 651 to 750 there's  a huge expansion of territory. Damascus is the   capital, and here you can see the state of the  spread of Islam during the Umayyad caliphate.   Included among the territories that Umayyad  Empire has taken over are Spain, Portugal,   and Northern Africa. A lot of these countries had  been Christian territories and they converted to   Islam in the middle ages, and the architecture  bears witness to these new influences.  Cordoba is down here, and in fact  the area down here, Andalusia,   was the last part of Spain to  be overtaken by the Christians,   and it remained Muslim for about 300  years more than the rest of Spain. This is the Great Mosque in Cordoba, if you're  used to looking at Christian Church plans,   it's a pretty strange looking plan, even  though it’s axial like most Christian churches,   it seems to have something that could be an aisle  something that could be a nave but they're not   really aisles and naves, they are striations of  space they're bands of space, and people don't   proceed through the long direction of this  series of bands of space, but rather they   organize themselves against the southern wall. It's an amazing plan. You see the kind of growth   of the plan of the Great Mosque from an idealized  condition, it was all perfectly symmetrical,   in an axis, and as the needs grew to accommodate  a larger population so too did the mosque grow.   It is so big and so many enlargements were made  because the city of Cordoba became one of the   most populated in Europe. It is estimated that the  city reached over a million citizens at the time   of the Caliphate. In contrast, today’s population  of Cordoba is three hundred thousand citizens. Something very interesting   about this building is that despite everything  being built with the same technique and with   the same materials, and in the same style,  you can easily identify all the enlargements   and changes it underwent over the centuries. The original mosque built by Abd-al-Rahman in the   8th century had this shape. The space inside and  the space in the courtyard were quite symmetrical   and balanced. There is a part in the pavement  where it becomes uneven by a few centimeters,   this is where the first expansion that his  son Abd-al-Rahman II made to this building   in the 9th century, who added about eight  additional rows of columns. A century later,   his son Abd-al-Rahman III made an extension  to the courtyard that rebalanced the size   of the exterior space with the interior. In the third expansion, made a decade later   by Al-Hakam II, several skylights like this  one were made, because by having the front   latticework as the only source of light,  the mosque began to get dark in the back.   These skylights are large spaces whose roof stands  out from the other naves with domes that contain   numerous windows to the outside. Notice how the  geometry of the dome structure itself accommodates   the windows in an extremely elegant way. These  Arabs were geniuses of geometry, and great   architects, they required light in the building,  and so they solved it by constructing one of the   most beautiful parts of the mosque. This type  of structure for the dome is an invention of the   Arabs from Cordoba, and they were the inspiration  for the Italian baroque architect Guarino Guarini.  The last expansion to be made, carried out  by Al Mansur at the end of the 10th century,   is easily distinguished by its red brick pavement  as opposed to the marble pavement of the rest of   the mosque. The separation between this new part  and the old part is also noticeable thanks to   this stone wall that was formerly the wall that  faced the street. This latest expansion doesn't   add anything new, it simply keeps repeating  the same module, which allows the building to   continue expanding in any direction and increase  the feeling of being in an infinite space. By   the time this last modification was made, the  builders had no more Roman remains available,   so they had to make new columns in the same  style as the rest of the columns, and the   stonemasons who made these new columns signed each  of them with their name at the top of the shaft. There are so many bands of space, you can  get a sense of what that spatial quality is   if you look at the roof plan, almost look  like a train shed where you would imagine   lots of trains being parked under here, but  instead they're just these rows and rows   of transparent screens that allow continuation  among the rows but also delimit different zones.  The enclosed portion of the mosque with all of its   enlargements occupies more area  than any Christian Cathedral,   consisting of nineteen rows placed North and  South, with thirty-three bays to each row. Despite the numerous expansions it underwent, the  entire mosque has the same structure in height.   It is formed by a series of columns that were  reused from Roman temples and Visigoth basilicas,   on the column a cymatium was placed, which  is a block of stone that is part of Byzantine   architecture, and on this cymatium a pillar  is placed that supports the arches themselves.   Above these arches there are a series of  channels that still today they evacuate   the water from the building, making the  arches function as a kind of aqueduct. Here you can see the courtyard,  known as the court of oranges,   which is another one of the constituent elements  you need to have in a mosque, you need to have   a courtyard where people can assemble, and  also where they can have ritual cleansing.  So you look at this courtyard and you  might think that the climate in Cordoba   is really nice because trees grow beautifully  there, but in fact it's a very hot climate,   and you need to irrigate in order to  grow, and one of the really great things   that Islamic architecture does is it has  figured out a way to build irrigation into   the architectural design of projects in a way  that doesn't disrupt the qualities of the space,   like a big sprinkler would, but rather enhances  the qualities of the space. So if you get down   to ground level you can see that there's  this grid of little cuts in the pavement,   and water is channeled through here so that the  entire pavement becomes a kind of fountain with   these little narrow troughs maybe six inches wide,  easy to step over, but also very convenient for   having a gravity feed of a very gentle slope that  gets water to all the trees, and so you get these   marvelous oasis-like gardens happening in places  that you think nothing can grow of its own accord.  Here you can see the arches that lead to the court  of oranges and that over there is the minaret,   although today it does not have the  typical shape of the medieval minaret,   since in the 16th century it was covered  in the shape of a Christian bell tower.   This bell tower though, surrounds an original  minaret that can still be appreciated inside. Between the buttresses of the wall that surrounds  the mosque there are a series of doors. The mosque   did not have a clear main façade, but it has  many doorways like these ones. The doors have   these bronze tones, you can see the composition  formed by a central horseshoe arch, and above,   a gallery of intersecting horseshoe arches,  and topped off by a series of battlements.   All within that refined and elegant  style of pattern making. On the sides   we find multi-lobed arches over windows with  latticework typical of Cordoban Caliphate art. One thing that is important in understanding  the ornamental pattern and the love of surface   decoration for Islamic culture is the tradition  of forbidding figural images. So you’ll never   see statues or frescos of human figures in a  mosque like you would in a Christian church.  There's a strong interest in geometric ornament,  the word aniconic simply means not representing   the physiognomies of people but rather  favoring symbolic ways of representing things   like numerology or geometry or pattern making. So here’s some latticework that you’ll find in   this church, and you can see that it derives  from a really strong geometric structure that   gets overlaid and overlaid. The square rotated  on side of the square to begin to give you   an octagon that might unfold in a flow rate  pattern is something you see again and again.  This mistrust of the figural representation of  people in favor of geometric pattern making,   and this detail of the Great Mosque of  Cordoba begins to show you how that affects   the qualities of the architecture, every  possible color you can imagine is going on.   The use of a lot of colors in architecture  is called polychromy, poly meaning many,   chromy meaning color, and Islamic  architecture is highly polychromatic.   We also see the arches, the voussoirs  of the arches being polychromatic,   the two colors in the arches are neither paint nor  pigmentation, the color is due to the alternation   of red bricks with stone blocks, this way  the tones remain intense. Although Muslims   elaborated it when building this wonder, this  technique was originally developed by the Romans   and a precedent can be seen in the aqueduct  of the nearby city of Mérida, one of the most   important cities of ancient Rome in Spain, where  red brick is also alternated with blocks of stone. So the quality of the space inside the  Great Mosque of Cordoba is just spectacular,   you have these red and white polychromatic  arches, row after row, with that unidirectional   quality. These are also different from Roman  arches, they’re called historiated arches,   and what that means is that they don't spring  in such a way as to create half circles,   but they rise up higher, they're sort of like  horseshoe arches rather than half circle arches.  So something like this looks crazy, but in fact  something like this is better structurally than   a Roman arch, because it's transferring  the loads down and it's getting higher up.  Notice how the voussoirs are thicker on the top,  thinner on the bottom, and that's letting some of   the loads transfer and the natural catenary of the  arch is accommodated better within the structure.  The double arches work like an aqueduct, the  upper arch serves to transmit the loads of the   roof to the ground, and the lower arch works as a  buttress, supporting the next arch. These arcades   are repeated over and over again ad infinitum  to create that feeling of a forest of columns.  This idea of superimposing arches has a precedent  in Roman architecture, and can be seen especially   in the Roman aqueducts in the Iberian Peninsula  such as those of Mérida, Tarragona or Segovia.  This way of making arches, this way of  conceiving structure, this way of making a   kind of diaphanous screen that's happening at this  early date in Islamic architecture is something   that inspired Gothic architecture toward this  condition of dematerialization in later years. Here we have a view toward the Mihrab, that  niche in the important wall that organizes   the interior space for prayer. In the ceiling plane above it,   there’s a series of domes, the geometry of  these domes is quite different than domes   we've seen in Byzantine and Roman architecture,  they are these kind of rotated squares the   perimeters of which are articulated with  ribs, and it gives you an octagonal star,   and as is typical with ornament on a wall surface  there is this play of geometrical figures.  The Mihrab shows a profusion of different  colors such as blue, red, black, white and gold,   all made with small Byzantine mosaics like  those used in the Basilica of Hagia Sophia   in Constantinople. And at the top of the  arch are verses from the Quran in Arabic. Mosques are typically oriented towards Mecca, but  this one is facing south. Abd al Raman came from   Damascus, one of the most important Islamic  cities at the time, and the Damascus Mosque   is also oriented south, since from there Mecca  itself is towards the south. He wanted to create   a new Damascus in Córdoba and evoke in Córdoba  the Umayyad past that he had left in his youth. Right in the center of the building is  a cathedral that was built in the 16th   century. When the Moors are expelled  from Spain by the Catholic Monarchs,   the mosque is converted into a Christian church.  The mosque evokes a sense of horizontality with   all its rows of arches and shadows with its  small domes and skylights, however this cathedral   disrupts the scale and rhythm of the mosque  to give you a sense of verticality and light.  Thanks to the construction of this cathedral,  the mosque was saved from being destroyed in   the same way that the mosques of other Spanish  cities such as Seville or Málaga were destroyed,   where today there are no remains of the great  mosques from the time of Islamic Spain. The mosque   in general is very well preserved, and aside from  the extruded Gothic cathedral in the middle of   the building, the mosque still looks much the  same as it probably did in the 10th century.  It is a pity, though, that some columns and vaults  were demolished for the church, King Charles V   signed the approval of demolishment before ever  visiting the Cordoba, and when he went there after   the church was finished, he recognized it was a  big mistake, for in his own words “he demolished   what you don’t see anywhere to build what you see  everywhere”. But part of the historical value is   the coexistence between these two cultures. The cathedral was built and modified over   hundreds of years, therefore we can see in its  structure Gothic elements such as the vaults   and buttresses, Renaissance elements such as  the semicircular arches and classical columns,   Mannerist elements such as the elliptical dome,  and Baroque elements such as the altarpiece and   pulpits. After all the modifications suffered,  today the mosque consists of 610 columns. If you like Spain, I have a playlist  in my channel with videos of Spain,   so make sure you go check it out. Thank you for watching, I hope   you enjoyed this video, I hope you learned,  please leave a like subscribe to my channel,   and I'll see you very soon  in another episode. Goodbye!
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Channel: Manuel Bravo
Views: 120,056
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Keywords: Mosque of Cordoba, Cordoba, Spain, mosque cathedral, cathedral, cordoba, cordova, españa, Andalusia, mosque, mezquita, mezquita catedral, mezquita de cordoba, architecture, architect, islamic architecture, islamic, islam in spain, roman architecture, roman aqueduct, middle ages, medieval, medieval architecture, umayyad, caliphate, al andalus, Al-Andalus, omeya, cordoba mosque, cordoba cathedral, Charles V, columns, roman, ancient rome, ancient, history, art history, Mecca, Islam, art, muslim, documentary
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Length: 19min 11sec (1151 seconds)
Published: Fri Sep 02 2022
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