GENDRY'S WAR HAMMER: GAME OF THRONES: PART 3

ladies and gentlemen welcome back to the workshop it is an absolute thrill to have you back because today is part three of working on gendron's Warhammer from Game of Thrones it's gonna be a massive amount of fun and I really hope you enjoy this episode but first things first a little bit of TIG welding practice oh how I do enjoy getting my practice on and now what we're gonna do is we're gonna get back to work on the project at hand I'm gonna take a wire wheel on a cup brush and we are going to a polish this up we're obviously not going to be going down to true surface true true metal we're gonna be polishing up the surface which is scale right now and then of course we can oil it and it's just going to look beautiful it's gonna look so nice so now it's on to a little bit of wire wheeling [Music] look how shiny that thing is isn't this thing just looking beautiful I'm very pleased with how this thing is it's turning out there so what we're now gonna do is I'm just gonna take some linseed oil and give a little coating this is a how can I protect it save it from rusting and of course it's also just gonna help make it pop and it just leaves a really beautiful and aesthetically pleasing finish on that so now that we've got this wire wheeled up and oiled up and it's looking spectacular we're now gonna work on some of the other fittings on this piece so now what we're gonna do is we're gonna take some steel on this bucket here and I'm gonna be throwing it in the lake so now that a warhammer is now nicely oiled up looking fantastic pretending this is the warhammer I want to make myself a camp is gonna go here on this end at this end of the handle a socket that's gonna go between the head of the hammer and the handle and a socket that's gonna go on the far end of the handle to the cap and the socket over here you can have some nice finials and actually having said that I'm not sure about the socket right here we'll see how it looks first with just the with just the two ends so I need to make sure that my my cap here the end of the handle is at least forty two point oh two millimeters so I have this piece of 45 mil round bar that piece is a little rusty actually so now into the vise we go the vise the chuck goodness gracious you can tell I'm not a machinist so I don't need too much sticking out of there I reckon that'll probably do tighten all three watching my watt sets on the dude ah there we go get a little more tightness one more should do it right change the tooling over and I daresay we are ready to do a little bit of lighting so first things first I'm just gonna face off this front edge a little bit so what I'm now gonna do is I'm just gonna come in just ever so slightly we're gonna take some off the diameter here that way I've got something that you know a known dimension to work to that I can plug into the Dro 43.8 three now then come on to the Dro here plug that in and perfect now I know that okay we've got forty three point eight three on the diameter this dro here is set up to read me the the diameter so it's not actually reading how far in we're physically going with this tool but it's actually reading how much we're taking off the overall diameter so it's reading twice the radius obviously we're controlling the radius with this axis here and we're controlling the diameter and what knowing the diameter with this in we go just a little bit we're gonna take you know about 3/16 an inch off diameter so what we're now gonna do okay this entire assembly here can swim I don't know what you call this like I said I'm not a machinist but this feeds in this way I have a tapering attachment on this machine but it won't be very drastic tapers kiss any of you are interested because I used it in a couple other videos it's this thing here there's a little gripping tool that grips onto the ways of the lathe and then this gets held and then the carriage moves and it'll slide it back and forth but for a very very kind of obtuse taper as I want to do here we're gonna put a little point on there that doesn't do a big enough angle so what I'm gonna do is we're gonna take this and we're gonna loosen up these bolts here and we're gonna spivot this around so that I can make the taper by feeding this in and out while it's at an angle that's now loose we'll pivot that get a rough kind of idea of the angle that we want little too obtuse let's pivot some more okay I think that's probably about close enough we'll now tighten it up and also gonna loosen up this tool pot at tool post holder is that what they're called I don't know Jenny is that what they're called yes yeah it is okay good thanks for letting me know dude videographers that know about lathe turning isn't it handy what are our views on that carbide versus high speed steel Jenny how did you know that Ronnie huh let's see if this works so what I'll do here is I'll just take little bites feeding in with this thing Madhu here and obviously controlling our travel across the workpiece here [Music] I'm just coming into the center of the work he's here and we're gonna take the last cut that this thing should really need gently feed her up looking great and it looks like I guesstimated the angle pretty pretty nice and close this is gonna be a very nice looking point now this is the only real kind of tool that I have for this and now I need to have a think about how I'm gonna use this particular shaped insert to create some some interesting shapes and radii in here what I want to do I think is I want to push a little down into here create a little bit of a hollow and then kind of radius an arc that out as we come to a lip here that's then going around back over this is not the tool for it but we might just about be able to make this work I'm gonna turn it on we're gonna dig in slightly with this we're gonna engage the power feed going in this direction I've got it set nice and slow and then I'm gonna go further in and then bring it out and hopefully that'll give us a little bit of a radius we'll see how it goes if it doesn't work then it's alright we've got plenty more steel plating more things to learn and it will be fun no matter what look at how cool this looks this is so that was a lot of fun to try now I'm a little upset about I'm not upset for goodness sake this is I'm still a static but I'm a little sad maybe that'll work but the surface finish is very very rough and the reason being with me being sad is because I have absolutely no idea how I'm gonna get this to look clean ok so I think we got that squared up again now what I'm gonna do is I'm going to take this out and I'm gonna put this is a parting off tool I think they're cool somebody let me know and what we're gonna do is I'm gonna make sure that it's that the right height and now it will do well go ahead and turn on the lathe and it's making a waterfall on us and again here we go and it's still making a waterfall oh well I've given up worrying about it so I'll engage the power feed and we'll begin cutting [Music] so here's that piece has now been cut off I'm gonna be ready to flip that around but first I think we're gonna eat lunch as far as I know chef Sam has been busy working awaking a soybean that way up to Sam and we can get cooking whoa how do you do that sound much now let's do the washing up before think they're really cooking it doesn't particular seemed as if food is ready so we will continue cracking on here at the lathe so we'll pull this out of there and we can now take this piece and we can poke it back in we are gonna take some parallels and we're gonna slip those in there so that we can make sure that it is square with the Chuck damn it okay and now of course I'm not gonna turn the lathe on with the parallels behind it so I will that pushed out with some force push out the parallels there we go and now it should be safe enough to go I'm gonna make sure I don't take any super super heavy cuts because I don't want this to come flying out of the laid there isn't a hell of a lot of contact but this should be good enough to to certainly do most of the tightening that we've got to do right now oh my goodness that looks delicious what is that everything all of the best foods correct cooking sound it's time for us to get back to work [Music] [Music] [Music] here we go so now this piece has been turned you'll notice I haven't okay I have not threaded this back end here I'm going to in the future but this we're gonna we're gonna get at the finish on it we're gonna start the finish on it by heating it up in the Forge before I do that I'm gonna run into the grinding room and we're gonna take off that sharp edge there so that it'll radius down come round nicely as that transitions into the sledgehammer itself what we will be doing later on today is that we're gonna be giving this a the beginning of its patina by putting it in the Forge now and oxidizing it getting a scale of finish on it I don't want to have the threads on there before I do that otherwise the threads are gonna get really chewed up because it's gonna need some some heavy scale to fill in the tooling marks and and make it still look nice so now as I mentioned earlier I want to have a little bit of a collar here coming on to the shaft of the handle and we're gonna turn that on the lathe taking a piece of 55 millimeter round steel we're gonna chuck it up and then we're gonna drill a hole and then use this boring bar to really open up that hole as wide as it can be now I also want this hole to be tapered and thankfully of course I have the tapering attachment on the lathe and so I'll be able to taper the inside of the hole as well as the material on the outside of the hole relatively easily [Music] [Music] ugly dog Lisa we have a 25 millimeter hole going all the way through that piece what I'm now gonna do is I'm gonna go in front of this in the fart and let it heat up this is another piece of 45 gonna meet around we're gonna run over to the say handler power hammer we're gonna use these V die too much the same as what we did on the actual forging of the hammer itself I'm gonna work in there nice and tight that's gonna create a very short taper from behind of that we're then going to take some smaller fullering die and we gonna pinch in and make it octagon the first taper is gonna be round then behind it we're gonna make it octagon and I really think that's gonna fit with these aesthetics here where we have the octagon trough lines a round taper we're gonna have that at the bottom end of the handle I think that's gonna make it look really really nice into the bar we go okay so I'll start off nice and gentle yes and I'm just gonna gently roll this thing around there we go hi okay I'm gonna quickly change these dyes over to those little fullering guys I was talking about earlier great that piece should be hot we can now bring it out of the fire and do a little more forging you know commit okay so now we're gonna give it a little bit of a brush here with the wire brush we get the bulk of the scale off it'll say there being too much crusty stuff on the surface oh man this piece is gonna be a really nice feature on this so I'm going to let this cool down and then we're gonna throw this in the lathe but we still do have more work to do on the previous project in the lathe so let's go back to that first things first what I'm actually gonna do is we're gonna put this in the fire we're gonna let it oxidizes ice finish on it okay so we're back at the lathe and what I'm gonna do now is I'm gonna first focus on the inside diameter I think that seems like an appropriate thing to do I actually I think that this so kind of zero-sum game which ever way I'd do it so I'm gonna take a boring bar here we're gonna square that up we're gonna give it a little bit of a tighten there make sure that it's nice and solid and so this is another piece of insert tooling so it has these little carbide inserts just like what I usually turn with and the carbide obviously it's it cuts well it does it does a good job so now what we're going to do is we're going to come across and we're gonna start working on the inside diameter of the workpiece we're gonna rough it out just straight across and then once we're a little closer to dimension I'm gonna go ahead and set up the taper attachment and we're gonna make the inside taper will then make the exact same taper on the outside and that'll make our cover [Music] okay I've now got the taper attachment set up I have my angle set 1.96 degrees this means that as I move the carriage this way it is naturally going to be going in at the correct amount to be able to get the taper that we need on the inside and on the outside [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] ladies and gentlemen thank you so much for watching this video I really hope you have enjoyed please do make sure if you're watching in the future that you watch the next episode let's give me a link to that right here also make sure that you watch part 1 if you haven't that is right there subscribe if you're new please I'd love it if you'd share these videos with your friends and of course most of all I hope you have a fantastic day I'll be seeing devar on the next episode lots of great stuff to come bye bye

Channel: Alec Steele

Views: 1,116,506

Rating: 4.9203844 out of 5

Keywords: GAME OF THRONES, GENDRY, FORGED, HAMMER, GOT, MAKE, TESTED michaelthulu reforged Blacksmith, blacksmithing, forge, forged, iron, steel, handmade, craft, diy, fire, forged in fire, bladesmithing, man at arms, knifemaking, art, sculpture, welding, mig welding, fabrication, hot rods, axe, tomahawk, hammer, wranglerstar, wrangler star, learn blacksmithing, vlog, daily vlog, youtuber, alec steele, forged steele, daily, cinematic, artisting, new, battle axe, viking, sword, KNIGHTSWATCH

Id: sEtnEQQG_tA

Length: 16min 19sec (979 seconds)

Published: Fri Aug 25 2017