Garden room, insulation, vapour barrier, 1st fix electrics and plaster boarding

right so yesterday i showed you insulating the roof we've cut out for the lights uh we left 100 mil void around there we've pushed our insulation tight to the top and explained why we did that yesterday again we've insulated the walls the insulation is pushed back tight to the walls now the best way to do this and the most economical way that we've found that we've found is um cavity batons they're 450 by 1200 it's a bit it's a lot easier to work with these than it is with the 1200 by 2.4 sheet of 50 mil 50ml is more than enough in the wall so what we do we cut it down that way you can put it in a full piece like that if you wanted but then you're going to left with this crappy little off cut that you're going to struggle to get rid of if you put them in like that and cut them you get two bits in a cut down at the bottom there we put two full bits which is 900 so all them noggins and 900 i so what we did we've obviously put two two cavity backs cut on side and noggins got in on top of there and then we've infilled the rest so that's the easiest way to do put it on its side rather than that because you'll be left with a crappy little off cut also we're looking for continuity in the insulation in the wall so you've got you're all going up there you've got your roof there but you've also got this gap here and that goes out into the backs off it there as well so what we're going to do with that we've cut this insulation which is 22 mil jen's cuts it rather and what we're going to do then is force that into that hole tap it in with a bit of slate and then that will then give you continuity of insulation up your wall top of the wall plate and then onto the roof which is what you're looking for on another note what we've also put in is patrice's now a patronus basically is a piece of wood behind the plasterboard which will allow you to fix anything to so here there's a heater going there what we've used is some of this 18 mil osb free roofing bars which has been left over um jen's cut them to size i've drove them in i've kept them flush there now it's important that you keep them flush because if you don't keep them flush let me tell you what will happen so you'll put that in it'll be stacked behind plasterboard a couple of mil you'll screw your plasterboard to that and then you'll get it plastered jobs looks okay doesn't it but then what you're going to do then you're going to put your bracket on for your heater and when you put that bracket on that wall there and it meets that resistance there and that resistance there what it will do then it will pull the patterns forward and then any plasterboard screws that you've got going through there will then pop off the plaster so with that in mind your practices need to be flush with the timber so them two there will carry the heater that's where the fuel spur is going over here he's having a tv on the bracket on the wall his desk is going to be over there so his tv on a folding bracket will flip out like that he'll be able to sit there and see that up here is where the consumer unit is going so again we need to pat this there as well what we'll do as well adam will measure across there he'll take a photograph of that tape measure on that wall so when he puts the consumer unit on the wall the knockout in the back of the consumer unit he doesn't want to land there because that means he's drilling through that full timber to get outside so he'll reference off that photograph that he's taken and he'll decide where his consumer unit's going again they're flush they're flush all nice and flush so when them brackets go on they don't pull the plasterboard screws forward so that's it we've got a little bit more insulation to do um over here obviously you can't get your hundred past year upside down georgetown so what we'll do then we'll go to the outside i don't know if you can see my fingers just look at legend can you see my fingers there yeah right so what we'll do then we'll fill that with rockwool so that you've still got full insulation over the full building so that's it that's your insulation what we'll do we'll finish these little bits now we'll get it cleared out and then we're going to put a vapor barrier on and i'll show you the easiest way to fix your vapor barrier as well right so liam wants me to go through a bit more electricals with you all because you've been asking for it so i've done the lights i explained them yesterday what we're doing with the lights um if we come out here where our light switch is going i'm gonna when we've plasterboarded it i'm gonna drill out and i'll know where where to feed our cables in i've run a feed from here to where our consumer unit's going through the joists all the way across and left my wire ready to come in for when we put plasterboards on consume my unit on and i'll drill out and bring all my cables through there um that's it for lighting really we are going to throw some canopy lights in the front which is just a daisy chain between between these we'll we'll measure it out and just put them equidistant um why have you not put your back boxes in yet because there's no plasterboard to put them in yet right well some people use metal bat boxes don't they i have wired this building it doesn't look like i have yet for power the reason being because it's not being plaster boarded yet when we've plaster boarded it i know where the sockets are going i've drawn myself a diagram and i know where they are like a schematic um and i'll know where where my sockets are going and i've already run the wires externally which if liam has a look you'll see it my cables are all there you'll see the loop sticking out there so when we've boarded it today i'll go around and measure right we don't go off the regs with our with our socket height we just go for aesthetics really because there's no need for them to be 450 up in halfway up the wall where this isn't a disabled building it's not a disabled building it's fully functioning equally with them no equally with the light switch i just put it at a height that i think's suitable um yeah so i've i've also run the power for the the heater which is going on this wall underneath the window there's a a few spur going behind there so when equally when we've when we've plaster boarded it again we'll determine where the heat is going and put our our single back box on so can you tell me have you run rare deals or rings they're all radials so it's just a daisy chain the consumer unit's going on that wall it goes down from that consumer unit to the first socket out of that socket into the next one out of that one into the next one and so on so forth until you come to the last one which as it happens has fallen nicely on the outside socket which is there so that's the last one on the radial it'll just come out the wall when we clad it we'll just pop a little hole out put our outside socket on there and that's it so that's the radial that's the size that'll be on a 16 amp breaker and what size breaker will they so they'll they'll both be on a 16 amp breaker your lights will be on a six your inside lights and your canopy lights will be on the same one on a six amp breaker your security light will be on its own just straight to the to the board with a six amp breaker um i think that's pretty much it i mean it seems really really simple to me but i'm sure that people will learn so so there you go no ball straightforward talking electrician yep easy as peas so adam's doing now is trimming back his cables for his lights just so that we can get him up into the ceiling and not in the way when we come to plasterboard it what we'll do now um we'll wait until this forms got off it's still a bit soft there um and then we'll just pick it off to make sure it's not hanging down past the rafters and then we'll apply our vapor barrier but it's breakfast time now isn't it adam yes right so that's the room insulated what we're going to do now we're going to put on a vapor barrier um this particular vapor barrier i think um is 4 meters by 25 meters which is big enough to span the roof in one piece so what i'm going to do i'm going to roll it out on the floor make sure it's longer than the room so what i want to do i'm going to cut it cut it so it's actually longer than the room um i'm then going to use this dewalt stapler it's five and 10 mil stair pulls um this is what i've found is the easiest way is to do it on your own and you can get a tighter a tighter application as it were so what i'm gonna do i'm just gonna unwrap it a little bit then i'm gonna start in the corner i'm gonna let it hang down the wall a little bit because i know that we've well we should be longer than the room and wider than the room as well so what i'll do um because we want to overlap it so basically i'm just going to go along the back wall fixing it to the rafters um the one that tool station i believe off the top of my head is green and you can't see through it but this one's from cell cores it's obviously clear which aids fixing because you can see where your joists are and it's not a problem so the back wall is fully fixed on there what i'm going to do now i'm just going to walk slowly into the room keeping the tension on it and just stapling it as i go along i'm just pushing it with my hand to get to the front of the room there so that's down one joist what i'll do then now skipper joist again just keeping the tension on with my hand just to keep try and keep it relatively tight up onto the roof that's two we'll get that one over there in that corner again now because you're going at the corner just pull it a little bit tighter the vapor barrier know some of you don't use it some of you swear by it some of you get a better quality one um but what hopefully i'll do i'll show you once he's skimmed it just how good a basic vapor barrier is it's stopping moisture entering the walls and the roof once he's plastered i'll be able to show you that hopefully if i remember so that's his ceiling up um what i'll do now i'll just go along and just fire a few more staples in it and then we're good i'm happy with that again because it's clear you can see through it which will aid you when you're doing your plasterboards it's a bit of a pain it's the green ones you can actually see through it you can see it's hanging down the walls there as well hanging down the walls there and hanging down the walls at the front what i will do i will then do the walls overlap them so that there's a complete vapor barrier from there down so the vapor barrier runs along the ceiling down the walls and there you go that'll be that so what i'm going to do i'm just going to staple that down there i'll trim it off around the window and then we should be good to go on the walls and then we'll get some plasterboards up soon as adam arrives he's just knit back off to um take delivery of doors and windows on another job that we're doing um if you're not if you've ordered doors and windows you'll know i've run out of staples no you won't know that you'll know that um there's a massive delay on them on doors and windows um on a lot of materials it's starting to come now wood prices have gone through the roof which is slightly annoying because i've obviously priced for jobs for the rest of year um and the initial quotation will sort of slightly go out the window for me but i'll have to honour what i've priced just the way the world so that's that the roof vapor barrier completely on i'll do now i'll go and trim off around the doors um just so that we can see him getting a bit better and then i'm gonna do the same again i'll roll out on the floor make sure it's longer than the walls and then um i'll fix it to the walls and then we'll be good for plasterboarding so that's your roof done it's fairly tight i'm happy enough with that there's not a problem we'll overlap it up on the walls um if yeah i mean one minute jen just come over and i'll show you it's not the end of the world and if you put an elf in two pieces again it's not the end of the world i mean it depends what how far you want to go with it and how anal you want to go with it but trust me when that plasterboard's up there if you've got a joint in there the vapor hasn't got a mind of its own it doesn't go look a gap there let me sneak through there it doesn't happen like that once you cut them lights out there you're gonna have holes in it anyway you're gonna start ninety percent of it ninety percent is good enough in the room like this what you've got remember is these are generally low occupancy rooms which means there's not a lot of people in all of the time not like your house where you've got five six people in a modern town house you've got two bathrooms you've got a working kitchen all that moisture is building up in that house and it's gonna go somewhere it's not the same scenario in here you're just probably reading too much into it so we're gonna do the wall now um like i said it's four meters so i'm just gonna what we're doing because it will want to pull off its own weight sometimes so we're just doubling it up on the top there just to hold it better with staple it's not gonna affect your plasterboard when you put your plasterboard on we're talking microns rather than millimeters um yeah just watch your fingers so what we'll do we'll do that so what jen's doing now she's just pulling it down um again if you haven't got it tight it's not the end of the world you're still creating that vapor barrier these do all staircases spot on i think they're about 35 quid i know what you're thinking or it keeps adding to my bill cost you know and it does but you've got to look at time server as well and end the day if you're only going to build one of these in your lifetime get it all sold when you build them when you've built it oh move out and build yourself another one because that's what most people end up doing once you've built one once they're like an addiction right jim oh i've done that staples all right will you go along bottom and cut bottom off as well please jen let's finish the vapor barrier so what we're going to do now we're going to start plasterboarding because you will need to plasterboard your ceiling before you before your walls um right i'll just explain something to you right we leave a 400 spacing in between joyce the reason why it's 400 is because it's more economical with the kingspan um it just works out better that way for us king spans not king spun in fat takeoff and whatever you want to use it's really expensive at the moment and it doesn't look like it's ever going to drop so we use 400 spacers to get a full sheet outfit base which then means you have to cut your plasterboard because otherwise your plasterboard would fall on the joist if it was 400 centers and i fully appreciate that but for the size of the rooms we're doing it's not the end of the world so what i've done i've measured down my measurement is 2260 to the center of there but what i don't want um i don't right if you have a look over agent there's a pair there's a paper finish on that plasterboard obviously that's strong that end on there is the end of the plasterboard there's no paper finish but it's still stronger than cutting it because it's been machine compressed so what i don't want i don't want two hand cuts there because it just isn't as strong so what i'm going to do i'm going to cut the board and put the cut to this side and then when we put the wall on it will then trap the cutting there and then on this joist here we will have two machine end cuts butted together which are then screwed which will be stronger than two hand cuts in my mind that's just my opinion um i just don't like to see it um and we've never had a cracked ceiling or anything yet so what we're going to do i'm going to cut this board to 260 i'm going to put the cut over there me and jen are going to hold it up we'll put the camera down and i'll show you how difficult it is to plaster bottom ceiling when you haven't got any props and there's just two of us okay i'm sure which knife to buy told me i should fill my stanley box there we are looks nice and well it was nice and full and then every time liam needs a new blaze right so you're cutting plasterboards the plasterboard kills the blade quite quickly so i mean the cheap part by someone just keep changing them right i've measured 220 which is actually that line not that line my fingers scribe didn't work out the way it should have done yeah so what i'm gonna do now uh for those of you that don't know if you just score the balls like that i'm not putting loads i don't know if jen can see how far that blade has gone in do you want to have a look there and see can you actually see how far the blade is in the plasterboard yeah right so you don't want to like try and force it all the way then all we're trying to do is break the paper and slightly break the plasterboard and what will happen then again because it's going to well don't have to be great it's cut if jen just goes around there now what'll happen then if you go behind it and just give it a little tap with your knee it will break on the line don't come and then again i'm just going to get the knife and i'm just going to score down the back of it and that's the easiest way to cut a plasterboard or you can use a hand saw if you want um more work more dust more dust right so that's this plasterboard what i've done i've marked where the roof timbers are because obviously when we put this board up we're not going to see them timbers anymore so i've pre-marked them where they are we're going to use mil jit rock screws possibly 32 i can't remember what we've got in this box here now 38 mil plasterboard screws um they're not a gyprock brand actually they're actually just from tool station didn't seem to spit on the screen then but um they'll do the job and also what you need is i never remember a ph two bit there you go can you see that yeah that's the bit for the jib prop screws that sits in there lovely you showed me which knife to buy told me i should um fill my stanley box there we are looks nice and well it was nice and full and then every time liam needs a new blade right so you cutting plasterboards the plasterboard kills the blade quite quickly so i mean the cheap part by someone just keep changing them right i've measured 220 which is actually that line not that line my finger scribe didn't work out the way it should have done yeah so what i'm going to do now uh for those of you that don't know if you just score the balls like that i'm not putting loads i don't know if jen can see how far that blade has gone in do you want to have a look there and see can you actually see how far the blade is in the plasterboard yeah right so you don't want to like try and force it all the way then all we're trying to do is break the paper and slightly break the plasterboard and what will happen then again because it's going to well don't have to be great it's cup if jen just goes around there now what'll happen then if you go behind it and just give it a little tap with your knee it will break on the line don't come and then again i'm just going to get the knife and i'm just going to score down the back of it and that's the easiest way to cut a plasterboard or you can use a hand saw if you want um more work more dust more dust right so that's his plasterboard what i've done i've marked where the roof timbers are because obviously when we put this board up we're not going to see them timbers anymore so i've pre-marked them where they are we're going to use 38 mil jit rock screws possibly 32 i can't remember what we've got in this box here now 38 mil plasterboard screws um they're not a gyprock brand actually they're actually just from tool station didn't seem to spit on the screen then but um they'll do the job and also what you need is i never remember a ph 2 bit there you go can you see that yeah that's the bit for the jib prop screws that sits in there lovely um can you just tell them the difference between them a ph2 and a pz2 right so the difference between a ph 2 and a pz2 is i can't ever remember soon as adam comes back i will get him to do it because he knows that doesn't have the bits on the other but what does it mean why is that one can you see how pointy that one is yeah and that's not got the little bits on do you know what i mean i know what you mean but what terminology is yeah come back adam come back right so when adam comes back um i i obviously if you've watched my videos you know i don't know the terminology for anything i use often use the wrong words but when adam comes back he's very serious and he will tell you exactly what the difference is between ph2 and pz2 board is 25 kilos this has probably just lost a kilo that we've cut off there so we're still looking at 23 4 kilos aren't we yeah what a kiva no right hold on right jen is disputing the fact that this is possibly a key law so what i'm going to do i'm going to go get me a pencil oh jen explain to them what these are called and where are you getting from i can't remember right they're from tulle station other retailers sell them um they're called uh a tracer pencil and basically i refuse to have one at first because i didn't believe in them um but they're really good and as long as you keep the little the little holy thing for it trap somewhere then you're good because you cannot put it behind your ear well you can if you've got big ears oh but the only thing is there you've got a lot jen let's keep it in the mouth and then it's gonna break her teeth yeah like that yeah and it whacks it up doesn't it so i'll just show you them there look they've got like remember them all school pencils at school and you just press it and your leg keeps popping out and then you hold it in and it pops back in as well oh yeah they've got a really teeny little pencil sharpening on them as well which is brilliant there see works um what were they about 20 quid or something like that oh yeah right back to the weight of this off-cut plasterboard i reckon the kilo yeah you reckon what no right 25 kilos in the board so you've got one two three four five six seven eight nine 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 and a half right divide 16 and a half by 25 25 by 16 and a half right obviously our mass isn't that great so we'll get a calculator out jen's gonna actually be proved wrong in a minute now she thought she was right but her math was crap so what did we say 25 divided by 16.5 divided by 16.5 equals 1.51 kilos so that piece of plasterboard though is 1.51 kilos so when i says we've now got 23 possibly 24 i was practically bang on one again right every day is a school day i've just schooled her okay right now this is where it could all it's pushed up enough push stuff enough right so what we're gonna do we're gonna lift the board up i've got some screws in my pocket um um jen's gonna hold it and once i've got a few screws in i'll explain as to why we need to get them in all right so what we're going to do we're going to throw this 23 and a half kilo board up are we jen we're going to rotate it we're going to push it to the back wall and then we're going to slide it that way are you to the back wall there john yeah yeah right good all right so what i'm going to do now is get some jit box screws in and i'll explain in a minute how far they need to go in and how many you need to put in to hold up this board jenna's got a grip of it there you good so you can see where i've put the black marks that's it you can only go there right so that's got one two three four five screws in it five little jip rock screws um they're positioned in and they're only sunk just um that's how far you want to put the screw in just compress the paper you see this one yep that's enough it's enough it's in it's pushed in it's compressed the paper what i'm going to do now i'm going to imagine the line there um so i can see where that line is down there i'm going to go down it fixing every 250 to 300 and then that will suffice for that rafter and you need to do down that down every single rafter and then what we're going to do we're going to cut a piece to go in there and then the off cut from there will go over there you want to stagger your joints as much as you can basically uh what jen's doing now she's screwing every 250 to 300 there that's gone in perfect depth that now it's below the purple it's just compressed it um that's what we want all the way down so okay adam what would you like to explain well it's not me they'd like to explain you would like me to explain okay to the i don't know who wants to know i think it's you to the one another to be honest well yeah me and jen obviously want to know what the difference is between pz2 and ph2 we're going to explain the difference between ph2 and pz2 ph2 we use for drywall screws which are like so okay pz2 which we use for all other screws if they're not torque screws are a phillips cross with an extra cross that's pz2 that is the difference can we have a look at the bits to see this cross on there you can see so that's pz2 pz2 so you've got your cross with a cross internal ph2 there we go ph2 just across right and there you go thank you for that explanation no problem what are you doing so i explained earlier when we did first fix lighting and we were still our first fix but i showed you where i cut out and put me like my wires for my lights so i did all my measurements and everything and i drew them i drew them so i wouldn't forget just on here yeah so i've got 700 square for my first light and 1560 is my middle light from either wall because that's in between so buy it so we'll measure no pencil man measuring from this side so well put our 700 mark on the plastic there 700 on there stanley fat max charcline then we're going to measure along our chalk line our first light is written on the wall 700 so next one is 1560 and if i measure from the other side 700 that's where our likes are going to be so this is a makita combo drill and a 70mm hole saw why have you got something well the 70mm is suffice for the um spotlight and center it on our light [Music] just explain about the installation so that's the the square that we cut out when we were insulating earlier that's that's suffice for um for our spotlight to go in preparation preparation preparation is this by magic and then will we do the last one leo yeah [Music] this is why we give ourselves 100 mil square all the way around because if liam or anybody doesn't insulate it properly then we've got a bit of leeway okay i just want to address one little matter before we finish for a friday um edgar protects that's what we normally use on the floor there's a short of a shortage of it in the country we used egg appeal easy peel i think it was called a few of you said oh my god you should have covered that floor it's going to be ruined it's rained it did it peed it down for four days constantly um this is the floor today it's obviously peeled it back there's no damage to it whatsoever so um if you can't get any good protects don't worry about it as long as you can get your roof on within week i wouldn't even come and play worrying about it the floor's born dry there's no ridges on it where you would expect the water has scum down the joints and blowing it it's absolutely fine solid construction thank you right we've passed above the ceiling adam's cut out for his lights um he didn't have to ping a line on this one unfortunately the joint in the board has fallen straight on the center of the lights and the room was perfectly square so that's worked out fine our side walls are tapered therefore we're putting a tapered cut to the roof um what i've done there you can see i've marked where the uprights are um that's where the uprights are so in fact you've got two choices there you can either draw a pencil line or you can use a laser like that or you can freehand it like you know if you want to do it that way there's two ways of doing it so there's your vapor barrier there's your plasterboard adam will go around then he'll he'll laser a line at 300 watermelon call your bat boxes off you can see over there that's where the practices are they're now concealed behind the wall so when that is plastered and the bracket goes on there we know we've got full fixing behind that wall anywhere we choose um we use jib rock screws 38 mil i've showed you them we also use this plasterboard lifter what happens with that it goes under the board you just give it a push up like that it pushes the board tight to the ceiling then and then you can screw it what we generally do is leave a 20mm gap under the floor under the plasterboard at the floor and the reason for that being is when we laminate the floor you want a 10mm expansion get round the perimeter of the building but because it's an outdoor building as well and we're just trying to preempt the floor expanding more than what we normally do then we leave a 10 mil gap for where it hit the wall plus it's got another 12 and a half mil to slide under the plasterboard as well so you've got actually 22 and a half mil for that floor to expand or you've got nearly two inch over the full room which is it's never going to happen that's absolutely fine so that's the bottom screws approximately every 250 apart a full row across the top as well full row across the bottom loads of screws loads of fixes do it right here never going to crack on you these walls will not crack um we don't ever go back to cracks because we screw it right we fixed it right um and it's built on a solid foundation as well so that is it practically for the day now that's it friday another week over um we're going to finish plasterboard on this adam will drop his back boxes in and then we'll be off if you'd like to like subscribe follow comment and all the rest of that malarkey that would be fantastic and i'll try and answer as many questions so i can okay so it's goodbye from me goodbye

Channel: Oakwood Garden Rooms

Views: 38,027

Rating: 4.9216866 out of 5

Keywords: garden rooms, garden office, home office, oakwood garden rooms, William Griffin, Liam Griffin, Jennie joiner, flat roof, rubber roof, PIR insulation, how to build a garden office, garden room tutorial, man cave, she shed, home gym, how do I, timber frame, vapour barrier, plaster boarding

Id: WvXtdimV9m0

Length: 33min 6sec (1986 seconds)

Published: Sat May 29 2021