GABON, LA FORÊT MAUDITE - Reportage complet - FULL HD

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All the mornings of the world are not alike. In the heart of the Gabonese forest, the morning song of the birds has a serious competitor. That of the bogged down. Encouragement give strength to men. But they can't nothing for this juggernaut. Not even eight-wheel drive of this truck that came to lend him a hand. Roll it back seems mission impossible. The cable is ruined. Pick it up. Better ahead, better ahead! Behind is not good. otherwise stop it I'm going to have an accident, the truck will fall. We pass it off like this. If the knot holds, it will end several days of galley. Well done, yes! We are freed from misery. I spent three or four days here, but now everything is fine. When you are told that you have to believe in God. It's a miracle. But why such big trucks do they take this dirt road? In fact, they have no choice. It is a major economic axis. It crosses Gabon from east to west, and only 20% of the route is paved. Like many African countries, Gabon does not lack resources. These offshore oil fields and its forest that covers almost all of its territory, earned it the nickname of African Emirate. After black gold, green gold is the second resource of the country. Without its forest, Gabon's economy wouldn't last long. Convey wood is dangerous for men. On the Gabonese roads, the steering wheel of the trucks takes looks like a funeral wreath. This is the daily menu of this road: accidents. Cold blood and dexterity make these drivers a legend. We are called the sick, crazypeople. The Gabonese road network is one of the least developed in Africa. Besides, the two main cities of the country, Libreville and Port Gentil are not connected by a road, but by a river. Take the cable! The cable ! The Ogooué is a long, quiet river, except for loaded sailors to tow thousands of logs. As soon as they arrive in Libreville. Bring a stock here. At least two or four batteries. The trees are unrolled in sheets of wood. They are used to make plywood for European and Asian furniture. Okoumé is one lords of the forest. That's not that man's name, but that of these giants. Its good. The tool that puts them down is up to the task. This chainsaw measures almost a meter. We start working with wood. He needs to do more... 30. 30 meters is long. Okoumé, took a hundred years to get to this size. Men don't put only a few minutes to bring it down. His long journey begins. At the edge of the forest, hundreds of trunks called logs are sorted and then piled up on truck trailers. The loading often reaches 50 tons. Youssouf is a good believer. But for the inspection of his trailer, he only has faith in one person. I redo my braking myself. I don't like to confide to someone else. This is the most important part of a truck the brakes? The most important. The brakes, you should never joke with. Never. brakes and steering, life depends on it. And of the truck and your own life. You do not have the choice. Never trust, this is the secret of his longevity at the wheel. Its good. Although a little prayer helps too. Youssouf hits the road with two other trucks. A long epic awaits them. The convoy leaves Lastourville, with the hope of reaching the capital Libreville in two days. A long journey of 645 kilometers, muddy tracks and bitumen smashed by the rains. All three know that they will suffer, but there is a feeling that overwhelms them. I'm thinking about nothing. Only one thing to lead, drive well and arrive, that's all. And that, do you like it? And that, I like it, because there, I am free, totally free. Since a few months, Youssouf and the logging trucks are overworked. They go back and forth. The fault lies with the poor condition Gabonese railways. The trains run slowly due to poor track maintenance. Hundreds of trunks waiting on the carriages. This bridge gives some scares to young drivers. It was not designed for logging trucks. In this truck the driver is me. You have to play with the size and it is very narrow. We are too fair. The Gabonese authorities, try to maintain this main road. But it's the rainy season, the track is waterlogged. It's difficult there. It's holding the truck back, it's mud. It slips ? No, it's holding the truck back, it's too soft. We sink. We have to force. In the descent, the brakes are strained. Youssouf takes risks, but he refuses to think about it. He earns €1,500 per month, six times more than a teacher. His only regret is to only see his wife and his five children only two days a week. And is your wife worried? Very worried, that's why I call her all the time. Question to reassure her that I am still alive. She no longer likes this job. I am forcing his hand. Because she doesn't want that anymore. vibration abuse the machine and its load. By dint of jumping, the logs are sliding despite the safety straps. Youssouf is doing quite well. On the other hand, the tail truck has a big problem. One of the trunks moved. There is a marble that wants to flee. This one, she backed off. Replace this ball three tons without a crane, is impossible. But with a little imagination, That's it. This one is good. - She's good, isn't she? Now the other. It's good, it's good. It can't fall. - Nope. If it lands on a square, you imagine ? Or on a human being. Human beings, from now on they won't see many more. This village marks an invisible border with the most inhospitable from the road. Youssouf's convoy enters in the dreaded forest of bees. An expanding no man's land over 2,500 square kilometres. Better not fall broken down in the forest. No, you don't have to. You have to pray a lot so that it doesn't happen to you. Because the... In the cabin you have the heat, outside you have bees and midges. At night you have mosquitoes. And there is no telephone network? Zero. World Cup. Just your fellow truck drivers. The legend tells that the forest would be cursed, refuge from evil spirits. They would cause accidents and breakdowns, to torture for days, unfortunate drivers. Like this one. He had come to tow a broken down truck, when at the time of leaving, strangely, his truck broke down. It's the bad state of the roads that makes us lose all the clutch plates and everything. At first, we don't pay attention to it. Then the noise is more present. The roar takes up more and more space. It comes from the thousands of midges and of bees that swarm in this forest. The constant buzz and the constant attacks drive all the drivers crazy. It's difficult, it's difficult. Even the dog no longer knows where to hide. But I'm starting to get used to because we've been here for three days. But on the first day it really wasn't that. The first day was not like that. The bees there, we can't. We can't bear. Jean-Pierre is blocked been in this hell for three days. It's not joy. As on purpose, while the bee forest has only a few inhabitants, fate has immobilized her in front of this house. She belongs to a dreaded man, the Sorcerer. His music seems to calm the insects. The wizard accepted to host Jean-Pierre until help arrives. That's where he put me up. This is his room. That's just his living room. In the middle of the house strange statuettes take pride of place. They are partly there to care for this young man. His family thinks he is possessed by a mind that would make him simpleton. In exchange for care, teenager takes care of household chores and prepare meals. That's porcupine. And that's what you will eat today? Yes, even you too, if you are there. And the bees there, they all look pissed off. There are some in there too. What is this liquid? That's water. And are bees in there? - Yes. And that is something what do you eat? Yes. Do you have to put it in water first? Yes. Curtis is not afraid of the thousands of bees hovering around it. He tells us to be in communion with them. They don't bite you? - Nope. As the telephone does not go through, Jean-Pierre had the tow truck notified by a passing road. In the meantime, he pays for his room to the sorcerer by menial works. His ordeal should soon be over. Well almost. Here is the rescue team. Go on. Their truck looks very bad, but as long as the wheels are turning. In Africa we do not throw away anything scrap. From the moment it moves you, so we keep it. And do the meters work? It's good, it works. The counter has exceeded 770,000 kilometers. But the engine seems to keep up. 75 kilometers to go. And how long will you take? One o'clock. An hour and a few. 1 hour 30, 1 hour 45. Not so sure. When it comes to rolling wrecks, you always find worse than yourself in Gabon. It's a bad load, that's why it rolls like that. He abused the charge. That's to say ? It is too heavy? It is indeed too heavy. It is abusive. Doubling is often a maneuver risky on this track. You saw ? That's the risk. If in the intersection you drive too fast, have you seen what it does? You go in there. That's not joy. This is a quagmire? Yes, that's part of it. I'll go in there because I can't negotiate there. If I slip, I fall into the ravine. With night rains, laterite, the red rock that makes up the tracks, turns into molasses. It's not over, we continue ahead. Here, a truck that is collapsed in front. Didier and his tow truck are not not ready to go and free Jean-Pierre. It has been a week that we are here. Warning warning. This driver plays to the loudest. It took him badly. The engine does not want to know anything. To help her go, a man has an idea with exotic scents, inject perfume. Do you wear perfume? - We'll fire up the engine. Alright, go now! The engine doesn't seem to like it cheap perfume. It will eventually be more sensitive to the smell of sweat. Didier tries his luck. It has enough space to pass to the side. He leaves serene and even enjoys it to give us a driving lesson. So, especially when you have a 4x4, it's not worth accelerating. We are going slowly. I brake, it holds you see? Advance ! Accelerated ! So there is another problem. What is happening ? Finally, Didier reviews his strategy. Even with its six-wheel drive, he is forced to gain momentum. Stop there, stop! You noticed ? It is solidarity. It's the one who passes who has more strength, who pulls the other. Yeah, so that's kind of it. Yes, move on, move on! That's fine, okay. Solidarity has its limits. Didier helps to pass only one truck. The others will have to play the aces of the steering wheel. Unlike the rest of the country, the trail of the forest of bees will never be paved. The region is classified national ecological reserve. Here we are. For you, is it over? Yes, my mission is over. I limit myself here. The rest, it's the mechanic now. It was time, Jean-Pierre would not have didn't last another day. bees, midges, and the sorcerer's meals took away his last strength. You don't feel very well? - Leave it, it's diarrhea. I am sick because of the water I drink here. Heat, humidity and gnats does not facilitate the task of mechanics. Jean-Pierre is worried. Yeah, I really gotta pray to God to get out of here today. The mechanics fall badly for the wizard. The noises they make bother him in his meditation. And moreover, tonight, he has an important ceremony. He must extract the evil spirit who would make his patient simple. He is afraid that with all this commotion, the gods of the forest refuse to give him the ingredients, which he needs for his decoction. Did you ask him for permission? - Yes yes. The tree accepts to give him a piece of bark. By respect, the wizard heals the wound. The patient concentrates. He must start by calming down the evil spirit that is in him. Impossible to know what composes the potion. a little beer, and bits of claws flying squirrels, complete the preparation. If you cut the treatment, it can't come in. According to the wizard, his potion works effectively. But it is impossible for him to know when the boy will be rid of the evil spirit that inhabits it. On the side of Jean-Pierre and convenience stores, it's the cold shower. We still sleep there today. Yes sleeps there, at the neighbor's who received us, opposite. Among the bees. So. Mosquitoes and gnats. We knew we had to endure. They will take two days to repair the fault. in the midge's hell. The road may be narrow, Youssouf at the accelerator glued to the floor and the left foot away from the brake. His 50 ton truck is an unstoppable missile. There are many accidents with the logging trucks. I'm risking my life, I know that. You know it, you who have had accidents? Yes yes. I saw a brain burst for the first time in my life. I've never seen that. And it was awful. In order to limit collisions, logging trucks have an obligation to stop at nightfall. However, Youssouf don't let up. He drives so fast that out of fear, this truck overturned. Thanks. The drivers are a little nervous. In defiance of the danger, the convoy of Youssouf rushes into the night. Only concession, all three reduced their speed. There I am still in the middle of the forest, I haven't found a suitable site yet. I can't park there the road is very narrow. I will represent a danger to others. I have to search a clean place to park better. night, speed also wreaks havoc. The driver of this heavyweight was very lucky. behind the trees holding the truck, hides a vertiginous ravine. The driver picks up hardly his spirits. To avoid another truck, he had to swerve. When I wanted to squeeze, the trailer deported me. I had to take it from scratch. I had to turn right. It brought me here and then I heard "boom", and my thigh hit hard. So I think I must have a ball joint problem. Your get out my truck or you don't take it out? Yeah, but we'll take you first- - No, no, you take this out in front of me. I will never go if he is not out. Sir, the truck down here, it's better. I see it, it's not broken, it's fine, you take it out. No, I won't leave if he is not standing. The truck is under his responsibility. If thieves bone it overnight, the driver will lose his job. Now how do we do it? Are you gonna die for the truck? You will sleep on the floor we are in a bad area. You're going to get eaten by a panther. The pain of his bruised leg slowly waking up. The driver resolves to abandon his vehicle. He is going to spend the night in a dispensary. And he had a bit of luck, no one will come and put his truck in pieces. After ten hours on the road and 200 kilometers of track, Youssouf and his logging trucks, reach the village of Lopé. All three would have not drive another minute. OK, end of the trip. How do you feel there? I'm exhausted. prayers and sleep, that's all there is to it. Especially my phone. To call his wife and children. Above all. End of the game. Do you have back pain? For the drivers it is a habit. That is not missing. I'm going to see one of my former colleagues. Youssouf, dream now good food prepared by Mama Tantine. It's the obligatory stop for all drivers. To quench your thirst. He comes to eat, others come look for a little tenderness. There, we are looking for something to lie down. We deal with it. There are the rooms- the passage huts, not the rooms. The place is a victim of its own success. Youssouf has to make do with a soda. He might have been entitled on a nice little dish, if he had booked those we call here the sisters-in-law. Yes I had a dish. You're in luck. - Yes and the room follows. I eat with luck. I'm with my sister-in-law, she found me the dish. To make matters worse, tomorrow is going to be a tough day. The forecast calls for pouring rain and his night promises to be restless. It's hard. We have the musicians, the noise and then we have the radio. This musical cacophony almost never stops. The fault also of this strange clamor escaping from the end of the street. Like a call, hundreds people are heading towards her. Tonight, they are nearly 2000 to have come to hear mass of one of these evangelical churches which flourish everywhere in Africa. The show is guaranteed by very convincing priests. In the heart of the forest, the enemy of God is the sorcerer. The Priest's Litany galvanize the crowd. Step by step, the flock go into a trance. Some are seized with spasms. According to the priests, this is a good sign. Dark magic would leave their bodies. Finally, we must help him a little more. Fernand Yode presents himself as a prophet. Tonight, he's taking on the water demon who took possession of this woman. You live in water, get out! - No, no, I'm not going out. You will go out ! - Nope. I prophesy, I prophesy! I send the sacrament of fire! Fernand Yode owns another of which, that of freeing the purses from the pockets of his followers. In a few minutes, the self-proclaimed prophet raises the equivalent of €3,000, a small fortune in Gabon. This sum, this fervent faithful takes six months to earn it risking his life every day. But a ticket for a little divine help is far from superfluous, according to Christian. It can happen let there be a disaster. But if we are accompanied by the Holy Spirit, the divine Spirit, immediately the Spirit comes to prohibit all that, so that the trip can happen peacefully. Christian is a sailor. That day, he changed his outfit. He assembles and tows huge rafts of Okoumé wood. A physical profession, which involves truckers for hideouts. You have to be sporty. If you are sport, you can do this activity, otherwise it is impossible. But sweat doesn't pay. Only €700 per month, is half less than a truck driver for twice the risk. Nothing protects these men. Except maybe their agility. By force of circumstances, Arsene, the pilot of the convoy, became a tightrope walker. At first it was really difficult and over time, I got used to it. In the beginning, did you fall all the time? - All the time, yes. And I learned stabilize myself on the wood. The life of these sailors is in a precarious balance. Arsène has been coveting wood for ten years. The company that employs him, lodge him with the other sailors in a village with rather basic comfort. I am with my wife and my children, my family. Can we go home with you? - Yes, no problem. Take that off, take that off. This is my home here. Hello ma'am. - Hello. A few square meters for a large family. How many children do you have? I have five. You are the only salary Who feeds the whole family? Yes, that's the only salary. It's with the little that I earn at company level which allows me to feed all these people. You are worried about Arsene when he's on the water? Inevitably, she can only be worried. - Yes. The roar of the engines is hear from 6 o'clock in the morning. Eugene, the captain. Christian, the fervent believer and Arsène are going to convey this load of wood to Port Gentil passing through Lambarene. A place dreaded by all sailors. 300 kilometers of sailing along the banks of the Ogooué River. There is a load of 350,000 €, if they lose a trunk, it is up to them to repay. The calm before the storm. This is today's menu. pork ribs and spaghetti, it's very good. During the rainy season, the Ogooué is capricious. Its flow increases and the 350 horsepower of the tug struggle against the current. A tremendous force that moves the scale a river, mountains. Last moment of recklessness. A sandbank looms on the horizon. To circumvent it, it is necessary to reduce the length of the tow rope. With a shorter attachment, the raft becomes more maneuverable. This manoeuvre, Eugene did it hundreds of times, but that day, the current pushes the raft towards the bank. The wooden logs hook the bottom. Fasteners may not hold. The raft threatens to fall apart. A trunk broke off. Eugene drops his load to go pick it up. The cable to pull! Tell the friend! The log was found by a fisherman. The man would have kept it well. With Okoumé, we make canoes. The stress goes up a notch. The raft is now stuck against the shore. It weighs 700 tons and part of it silted up. The pressure is enormous. If the pilot accelerates too strong everything falls apart, and the three men will put hours reconstructing the raft. hours wasted, deductions from their wages. We almost broke everything. Because if the head goes in, it bends and the cable stretches and because of the pressure, it lets go. Did we almost break everything? - Yes. I had to release the head of the raft quickly. Is that why you felt bad? - Yes, I was tense earlier. Otherwise, it's good, it's fine. But the incident caused damage. As the journey progresses, the scents of the forest are overwhelmed by the smell of gasoline. Then the engine power decreases. In the engine room, Christian discovers an unpleasant surprise. The seals of an arrival of gasoline have dropped when they pushed the engine fully. This operation must be repeated now every half hour. The breakdown falls on them at the worst time. Oh damn ! The Lambaréné bridge is in sight. Crossing it requires a lot of cold blood. Guards watch its passage. If a raft damages a pillar, the crew will have to pay a fine. And if the damage is significant, the captain risks prison. A sailor cannot pass ten years without touching a day. Sometimes mechanical breakdowns happen. And there, we are 100 meters from the bridge when it happens, so everyone panics. Eugene does not risk it. By telephone, he called two tugs. For a few hundred euros, the two boats will help guide his cargo. Arsene, take a good look how the raft steers. Do not do stupid things. One of these men will guide the operation. He has a confidence quite relative in this crew. George! There, the eyes are not not yet red? Alright, I trust. Does that mean he partied yesterday? - Yes, it's the end of the month then. If they are not stuffed, It reassures me. The two escorts prevent the current to play with the raft. The tail, the tail! The convoy passes to the nearest millimeter. The hardest, is to cross the bridge. We went, it went well. Okay, now the rest, it's mechanics. Mechanical problems, we'll see. Eugene's journey and his crew stops there. All three will wait the arrival of spare parts. They will take a week to reach them. For their part, Youssouf and his logging trucks darken on the bitumen finally found. They take advantage of it, only 10% of the roads of Gabon are covered with it. I have to pull the rope because that we play with time now. Inevitably, they must follow. Like always, the problem is to double. The drivers have so little opportunity to ride on such a smooth track, that they do not leave not overtake easily. When someone goes faster than you, you let him pass, you give way. You put your foot down a bit on the brake pedal. When someone passes you you're just speeding up. You downshift and speed up, It's no use. That's wanting to send the other in the other world. Night is falling, at 7 p.m. as in the forest, the three trucks no longer have the right to drive. Youssouf's boss comes to the news. Yes, we may be fair. Yes yes. OK. He is worried ? A little. He needs the wood. They are 50 kilometers from Libreville. The logging trucks are speeding up in defiance of danger. The road turns into a torrent, impossible to see the huge potholes hidden under water. The logging trucks finally enter in the suburbs of the capital. Youssouf and his team rode for two days with almost no sleep. However, they will continue on the road tomorrow morning with the same pleasure. After my wife and my children, that's it. This is my life, the truck. Recently, foresters became aware that it was necessary to preserve the second largest forest in the world, after the Amazon. They promised to replant every tree felled. That is 3 million trees each year.
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Channel: DAM - Documentaires Auto / Moto
Views: 3,153,467
Rating: undefined out of 5
Keywords: Aventure, Routes, forêt, impénétrable, chauffeur routier, traverser, précieux, tronc, arbre, exotique, pays, camion, bois, piste, boueuse, praticable, danger, panne, mythique, abeille, zone, cauchemar, garage, réseau téléphonique, routier, bête sauvage
Id: RIvi99Rq9R8
Channel Id: undefined
Length: 50min 46sec (3046 seconds)
Published: Sat Mar 21 2020
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