All the mornings of the world
are not alike. In the heart of the Gabonese forest, the morning song of the birds
has a serious competitor. That of the bogged down. Encouragement
give strength to men. But they can't
nothing for this juggernaut. Not even eight-wheel drive
of this truck that came to lend him a hand. Roll it back
seems mission impossible. The cable is ruined. Pick it up. Better ahead, better ahead! Behind is not good. otherwise stop it
I'm going to have an accident, the truck will fall. We pass it off like this. If the knot holds, it will end
several days of galley. Well done, yes! We are freed from misery. I spent three or four days here,
but now everything is fine. When you are told
that you have to believe in God. It's a miracle. But why such big trucks
do they take this dirt road? In fact, they have no choice. It is a major economic axis. It crosses Gabon from east to west,
and only 20% of the route is paved. Like many African countries,
Gabon does not lack resources. These offshore oil fields and its forest that covers
almost all of its territory, earned it the nickname of African Emirate. After black gold, green gold is
the second resource of the country. Without its forest, Gabon's economy
wouldn't last long. Convey wood
is dangerous for men. On the Gabonese roads, the steering wheel of the trucks takes
looks like a funeral wreath. This is the daily menu
of this road: accidents. Cold blood and dexterity
make these drivers a legend. We are called the sick,
crazypeople. The Gabonese road network
is one of the least developed in Africa. Besides,
the two main cities of the country, Libreville and Port Gentil are not connected by a road,
but by a river. Take the cable! The cable ! The Ogooué is a long, quiet river, except for loaded sailors
to tow thousands of logs. As soon as they arrive in Libreville. Bring a stock here.
At least two or four batteries. The trees are unrolled
in sheets of wood. They are used to make plywood for
European and Asian furniture. Okoumé is one
lords of the forest. That's not that man's name, but that of these giants. Its good. The tool that puts them down
is up to the task. This chainsaw measures almost a meter. We start working with wood. He needs to do more... 30. 30 meters is long. Okoumé, took a hundred years
to get to this size. Men don't put
only a few minutes to bring it down. His long journey begins. At the edge of the forest, hundreds of trunks
called logs are sorted and then piled up
on truck trailers. The loading
often reaches 50 tons. Youssouf is a good believer. But for the inspection of his trailer, he only has faith in one person. I redo my braking myself. I don't like to confide
to someone else. This is the most important part
of a truck the brakes? The most important. The brakes, you should never
joke with. Never. brakes and steering,
life depends on it. And of the truck and your own life. You do not have the choice. Never trust,
this is the secret of his longevity at the wheel. Its good. Although a little prayer helps too. Youssouf hits the road
with two other trucks. A long epic awaits them. The convoy leaves Lastourville, with the hope of reaching
the capital Libreville in two days. A long journey of 645 kilometers, muddy tracks
and bitumen smashed by the rains. All three know
that they will suffer, but there is a feeling that overwhelms them. I'm thinking about nothing. Only one thing to lead,
drive well and arrive, that's all. And that, do you like it? And that, I like it, because there,
I am free, totally free. Since a few months, Youssouf and the logging trucks
are overworked. They go back and forth. The fault lies with the poor condition
Gabonese railways. The trains run slowly
due to poor track maintenance. Hundreds of trunks
waiting on the carriages. This bridge gives some scares
to young drivers. It was not designed for logging trucks. In this truck the driver is me. You have to play with the size
and it is very narrow. We are too fair. The Gabonese authorities, try to maintain
this main road. But it's the rainy season, the track is waterlogged. It's difficult there.
It's holding the truck back, it's mud. It slips ? No, it's holding the truck back, it's too soft. We sink. We have to force. In the descent,
the brakes are strained. Youssouf takes risks,
but he refuses to think about it. He earns €1,500 per month,
six times more than a teacher. His only regret is to only see his wife and his five
children only two days a week. And is your wife worried? Very worried, that's why
I call her all the time. Question to reassure her
that I am still alive. She no longer likes this job. I am
forcing his hand. Because she doesn't want that anymore. vibration
abuse the machine and its load. By dint of jumping, the logs are sliding
despite the safety straps. Youssouf is doing quite well. On the other hand, the tail truck
has a big problem. One of the trunks moved. There is a marble that wants to flee. This one, she backed off. Replace this ball
three tons without a crane, is impossible. But with a little imagination, That's it. This one is good.
- She's good, isn't she? Now the other. It's good, it's good. It can't fall.
- Nope. If it lands on a square,
you imagine ? Or on a human being. Human beings, from now on
they won't see many more. This village marks an invisible border with the most
inhospitable from the road. Youssouf's convoy enters
in the dreaded forest of bees. An expanding no man's land
over 2,500 square kilometres. Better not fall
broken down in the forest. No, you don't have to. You have to pray a lot
so that it doesn't happen to you. Because the... In the cabin you have the heat, outside you have
bees and midges. At night you have mosquitoes. And there is no
telephone network? Zero. World Cup. Just your fellow truck drivers. The legend tells
that the forest would be cursed, refuge from evil spirits. They would cause accidents and breakdowns, to torture for days, unfortunate drivers. Like this one. He had come to tow
a broken down truck, when at the time of leaving, strangely,
his truck broke down. It's the bad state of the roads that makes us lose
all the clutch plates and everything. At first, we don't pay attention to it. Then the noise is more present. The roar
takes up more and more space. It comes from the thousands of midges and
of bees that swarm in this forest. The constant buzz
and the constant attacks drive all the drivers crazy. It's difficult, it's difficult. Even the dog no longer knows where to hide. But I'm starting to get used to
because we've been here for three days. But on the first day
it really wasn't that. The first day was not like that. The bees there, we can't.
We can't bear. Jean-Pierre is blocked
been in this hell for three days. It's not joy. As on purpose, while the bee forest
has only a few inhabitants, fate has immobilized her
in front of this house. She belongs to a dreaded man, the Sorcerer. His music seems to calm the insects. The wizard accepted
to host Jean-Pierre until help arrives. That's where he put me up. This is his room. That's just his living room. In the middle of the house
strange statuettes take pride of place. They are partly there
to care for this young man. His family thinks he is possessed
by a mind that would make him simpleton. In exchange for care,
teenager takes care of household chores and prepare meals. That's porcupine. And that's what you will
eat today? Yes, even you too, if you are there. And the bees there,
they all look pissed off. There are some in there too.
What is this liquid? That's water. And are bees in there?
- Yes. And that is something
what do you eat? Yes. Do you have to put it in water first? Yes. Curtis is not afraid of the thousands
of bees hovering around it. He tells us
to be in communion with them. They don't bite you?
- Nope. As the telephone does not go through, Jean-Pierre had the tow truck notified
by a passing road. In the meantime, he pays for his room
to the sorcerer by menial works. His ordeal should soon be over. Well almost. Here is the rescue team. Go on. Their truck looks very bad, but as long as the wheels are turning. In Africa we do not throw away
anything scrap. From the moment it moves you, so we keep it. And do the meters work? It's good, it works. The counter has exceeded
770,000 kilometers. But the engine seems to keep up. 75 kilometers to go. And how long will you take? One o'clock. An hour and a few.
1 hour 30, 1 hour 45. Not so sure. When it comes to rolling wrecks,
you always find worse than yourself in Gabon. It's a bad load,
that's why it rolls like that. He abused the charge. That's to say ? It is too heavy? It is indeed too heavy. It is abusive. Doubling is often a maneuver
risky on this track. You saw ?
That's the risk. If in the intersection you drive too fast,
have you seen what it does? You go in there. That's not joy. This is a quagmire? Yes, that's part of it. I'll go in there
because I can't negotiate there. If I slip, I fall into the ravine. With night rains, laterite,
the red rock that makes up the tracks, turns into molasses. It's not over, we continue ahead. Here, a truck that is collapsed in front. Didier and his tow truck are not
not ready to go and free Jean-Pierre. It has been a week
that we are here. Warning warning. This driver plays to the loudest. It took him badly. The engine does not want to know anything. To help her go, a man has an idea with exotic scents, inject perfume. Do you wear perfume?
- We'll fire up the engine. Alright, go now! The engine doesn't seem to like it
cheap perfume. It will eventually be more sensitive
to the smell of sweat. Didier tries his luck. It has enough space
to pass to the side. He leaves serene and even enjoys it
to give us a driving lesson. So, especially when you have a 4x4,
it's not worth accelerating. We are going slowly. I brake, it holds you see? Advance ! Accelerated ! So there is another problem. What is happening ? Finally, Didier reviews his strategy. Even with its six-wheel drive,
he is forced to gain momentum. Stop there, stop! You noticed ? It is solidarity. It's the one who passes
who has more strength, who pulls the other. Yeah, so that's kind of it. Yes, move on, move on! That's fine, okay. Solidarity has its limits. Didier helps to pass only one truck. The others will have to play the aces of the steering wheel. Unlike the rest of the country, the trail of the forest of bees
will never be paved. The region is classified
national ecological reserve. Here we are. For you, is it over? Yes, my mission is over. I limit myself here. The rest,
it's the mechanic now. It was time, Jean-Pierre would not have
didn't last another day. bees, midges, and the sorcerer's meals
took away his last strength. You don't feel very well?
- Leave it, it's diarrhea. I am sick because
of the water I drink here. Heat, humidity and gnats
does not facilitate the task of mechanics. Jean-Pierre is worried. Yeah, I really gotta pray to God
to get out of here today. The mechanics fall badly for the wizard. The noises they make bother him
in his meditation. And moreover, tonight,
he has an important ceremony. He must extract the evil spirit
who would make his patient simple. He is afraid that with all this commotion, the gods of the forest refuse
to give him the ingredients, which he needs for his decoction. Did you ask him for permission?
- Yes yes. The tree accepts
to give him a piece of bark. By respect,
the wizard heals the wound. The patient concentrates. He must start by calming down
the evil spirit that is in him. Impossible to know what
composes the potion. a little beer, and bits of claws
flying squirrels, complete the preparation. If you cut the treatment,
it can't come in. According to the wizard,
his potion works effectively. But it is impossible for him to know when the boy will be rid
of the evil spirit that inhabits it. On the side of Jean-Pierre and convenience stores, it's the cold shower. We still sleep there today. Yes sleeps there, at the neighbor's
who received us, opposite. Among the bees. So.
Mosquitoes and gnats. We knew we had to endure. They will take two days to repair the fault.
in the midge's hell. The road may be narrow, Youssouf at the accelerator
glued to the floor and the left foot away from the brake. His 50 ton truck
is an unstoppable missile. There are many accidents
with the logging trucks. I'm risking my life, I know that. You know it,
you who have had accidents? Yes yes. I saw a brain burst
for the first time in my life. I've never seen that. And it was awful. In order to limit collisions, logging trucks have an obligation
to stop at nightfall. However, Youssouf
don't let up. He drives so fast that out of fear,
this truck overturned. Thanks. The drivers are a little nervous. In defiance of the danger, the convoy
of Youssouf rushes into the night. Only concession,
all three reduced their speed. There I am still in the middle of the forest,
I haven't found a suitable site yet. I can't park there
the road is very narrow. I will represent
a danger to others. I have to search
a clean place to park better. night, speed
also wreaks havoc. The driver of this heavyweight
was very lucky. behind the trees
holding the truck, hides a vertiginous ravine. The driver picks up
hardly his spirits. To avoid another truck,
he had to swerve. When I wanted to squeeze,
the trailer deported me. I had to take it from scratch. I had to turn right. It brought me here
and then I heard "boom", and my thigh hit hard. So I think I must have
a ball joint problem. Your get out my truck
or you don't take it out? Yeah, but we'll take you first-
- No, no, you take this out in front of me. I will never go if he is not out. Sir, the truck down here,
it's better. I see it, it's not broken,
it's fine, you take it out. No, I won't leave
if he is not standing. The truck is under his responsibility. If thieves
bone it overnight, the driver will lose his job. Now how do we do it?
Are you gonna die for the truck? You will sleep on the floor
we are in a bad area. You're going to get eaten by a panther. The pain of his bruised leg
slowly waking up. The driver resolves
to abandon his vehicle. He is going to spend the night in a dispensary. And he had a bit of luck, no one will come and put
his truck in pieces. After ten hours on the road
and 200 kilometers of track, Youssouf and his logging trucks,
reach the village of Lopé. All three would have
not drive another minute. OK, end of the trip. How do you feel there? I'm exhausted. prayers and sleep,
that's all there is to it. Especially my phone. To call his wife and children. Above all. End of the game. Do you have back pain? For the drivers it is a habit. That is not missing. I'm going to see one of my former colleagues. Youssouf, dream now
good food prepared by Mama Tantine. It's the obligatory stop
for all drivers. To quench your thirst. He comes to eat, others come
look for a little tenderness. There, we are looking for something to lie down. We deal with it. There are the rooms-
the passage huts, not the rooms. The place is a victim of its own success. Youssouf has to make do with a soda. He might have been entitled
on a nice little dish, if he had booked
those we call here the sisters-in-law. Yes I had a dish. You're in luck.
- Yes and the room follows. I eat with luck. I'm with my sister-in-law,
she found me the dish. To make matters worse,
tomorrow is going to be a tough day. The forecast calls for pouring rain
and his night promises to be restless. It's hard. We have the musicians, the noise
and then we have the radio. This musical cacophony
almost never stops. The fault also of this strange clamor
escaping from the end of the street. Like a call, hundreds
people are heading towards her. Tonight, they are nearly 2000 to have come to hear mass
of one of these evangelical churches which flourish everywhere in Africa. The show is guaranteed
by very convincing priests. In the heart of the forest,
the enemy of God is the sorcerer. The Priest's Litany
galvanize the crowd. Step by step,
the flock go into a trance. Some are seized with spasms. According to the priests, this is a good sign. Dark magic would leave their bodies. Finally, we must help him a little more. Fernand Yode
presents himself as a prophet. Tonight, he's taking on the water demon who took possession of this woman. You live in water, get out!
- No, no, I'm not going out. You will go out !
- Nope. I prophesy, I prophesy! I send the sacrament of fire! Fernand Yode owns another of which, that of freeing the purses
from the pockets of his followers. In a few minutes, the self-proclaimed prophet
raises the equivalent of €3,000, a small fortune in Gabon. This sum, this fervent faithful
takes six months to earn it risking his life every day. But a ticket for a little divine help
is far from superfluous, according to Christian. It can happen
let there be a disaster. But if we are accompanied
by the Holy Spirit, the divine Spirit, immediately the Spirit
comes to prohibit all that, so that the trip can
happen peacefully. Christian is a sailor. That day, he changed his outfit. He assembles and tows
huge rafts of Okoumé wood. A physical profession, which involves
truckers for hideouts. You have to be sporty. If you are sport, you can do
this activity, otherwise it is impossible. But sweat doesn't pay. Only €700 per month,
is half less than a truck driver for twice the risk. Nothing protects these men. Except maybe their agility. By force of circumstances,
Arsene, the pilot of the convoy, became a tightrope walker. At first it was really difficult
and over time, I got used to it. In the beginning, did you fall all the time?
- All the time, yes. And I learned
stabilize myself on the wood. The life of these sailors
is in a precarious balance. Arsène has been coveting wood for ten years. The company that employs him, lodge him with the other sailors in
a village with rather basic comfort. I am with my wife
and my children, my family. Can we go home with you?
- Yes, no problem. Take that off, take that off. This is my home here. Hello ma'am.
- Hello. A few square meters
for a large family. How many children do you have? I have five. You are the only salary
Who feeds the whole family? Yes, that's the only salary. It's with the little that I earn
at company level which allows me to feed all these people. You are worried about Arsene
when he's on the water? Inevitably, she can only be worried.
- Yes. The roar of the engines is
hear from 6 o'clock in the morning. Eugene, the captain. Christian, the fervent believer and Arsène
are going to convey this load of wood to Port Gentil
passing through Lambarene. A place dreaded by all sailors. 300 kilometers of sailing
along the banks of the Ogooué River. There is a load of 350,000 €, if they lose a trunk,
it is up to them to repay. The calm before the storm. This is today's menu. pork ribs
and spaghetti, it's very good. During the rainy season,
the Ogooué is capricious. Its flow increases and the 350 horsepower
of the tug struggle against the current. A tremendous force that moves the scale
a river, mountains. Last moment of recklessness. A sandbank looms on the horizon. To circumvent it, it is necessary to reduce
the length of the tow rope. With a shorter attachment,
the raft becomes more maneuverable. This manoeuvre, Eugene
did it hundreds of times, but that day, the current
pushes the raft towards the bank. The wooden logs hook the bottom. Fasteners may not hold. The raft threatens to fall apart. A trunk broke off. Eugene drops his load
to go pick it up. The cable to pull! Tell the friend! The log was found by a fisherman. The man would have kept it well. With Okoumé, we make canoes. The stress goes up a notch. The raft is now
stuck against the shore. It weighs 700 tons
and part of it silted up. The pressure is enormous. If the pilot accelerates
too strong everything falls apart, and the three men will put
hours reconstructing the raft. hours wasted,
deductions from their wages. We almost broke everything. Because if the head goes in,
it bends and the cable stretches and because of the pressure, it lets go. Did we almost break everything?
- Yes. I had to release
the head of the raft quickly. Is that why you felt bad?
- Yes, I was tense earlier. Otherwise, it's good, it's fine. But the incident caused damage. As the journey progresses, the scents of the forest
are overwhelmed by the smell of gasoline. Then the engine power decreases. In the engine room, Christian discovers an unpleasant surprise. The seals of an arrival
of gasoline have dropped when they pushed
the engine fully. This operation must be repeated
now every half hour. The breakdown falls on them
at the worst time. Oh damn ! The Lambaréné bridge is in sight. Crossing it requires
a lot of cold blood. Guards watch its passage. If a raft damages a pillar,
the crew will have to pay a fine. And if the damage is significant,
the captain risks prison. A sailor cannot pass
ten years without touching a day. Sometimes mechanical breakdowns happen. And there, we are 100 meters from the bridge when
it happens, so everyone panics. Eugene does not risk it. By telephone,
he called two tugs. For a few hundred euros, the two boats
will help guide his cargo. Arsene, take a good look
how the raft steers. Do not do stupid things. One of these men will guide the operation. He has a confidence
quite relative in this crew. George! There, the eyes are not
not yet red? Alright, I trust. Does that mean he partied yesterday?
- Yes, it's the end of the month then. If they are not stuffed,
It reassures me. The two escorts prevent
the current to play with the raft. The tail, the tail! The convoy passes to the nearest millimeter. The hardest,
is to cross the bridge. We went, it went well. Okay, now the rest,
it's mechanics. Mechanical problems, we'll see. Eugene's journey
and his crew stops there. All three will wait
the arrival of spare parts. They will take a week
to reach them. For their part, Youssouf and his logging trucks
darken on the bitumen finally found. They take advantage of it, only 10% of the roads
of Gabon are covered with it. I have to pull the rope because
that we play with time now. Inevitably, they must follow. Like always,
the problem is to double. The drivers
have so little opportunity to ride on such a smooth track, that they do not leave
not overtake easily. When someone goes faster than you,
you let him pass, you give way. You put your foot down a bit
on the brake pedal. When someone passes you
you're just speeding up. You downshift and speed up,
It's no use. That's wanting to send the other
in the other world. Night is falling, at 7 p.m. as in the forest, the three trucks
no longer have the right to drive. Youssouf's boss comes to the news. Yes, we may be fair. Yes yes. OK. He is worried ? A little. He needs the wood. They are 50 kilometers from Libreville. The logging trucks are speeding up
in defiance of danger. The road turns into a torrent, impossible to see the huge
potholes hidden under water. The logging trucks finally enter
in the suburbs of the capital. Youssouf and his team rode
for two days with almost no sleep. However, they will continue on the road
tomorrow morning with the same pleasure. After my wife and my children, that's it. This is my life, the truck. Recently, foresters
became aware that it was necessary to preserve the second
largest forest in the world, after the Amazon. They promised to replant
every tree felled. That is 3 million trees each year.